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I have a Corsair H115i AIO water cooler. It’s the original one with no RGB that came out a few years back (link here for reference). It’s an older model before this new 1200 socket type came out and therefore doesn’t specifically indicate compatibility with the 1200 socket type. Does anyone know if 1151 compatible CPU coolers will also work for 1200 sockets or does it require an upgrade? -
I recently bought a Corsair h150i Pro XT and I find the pump to be just a tiny bit too audible. As the pump gets its power thru a Sata power header i was wondering if I could solder a resistor into the voltage leads of a SATA connector, to lower the RPM. I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work, but if you guys got any advice, thanks in advance!
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Hi, I have a pc with ryzen 5 3600 and 3060ti. My pc has restricted access to fress air as due to space restrictions in my room I have to keep it in a cabinet. The cabinet is ventilated though with holes near the intake of the cpu and a exhaust fan at the rear which spins at 3000 rpm and works fine. When I bought the pc I thought I would be fine with the stock cooler, but it isn't enough to cool my cpu as where I live ambient temperature is from 30-35°C. I have to run the cpu in power saving mode to keep it cool to a max of 80°C while playing cyberpunk. I wanted to improve the temperature so would you suggest an air cooler or an AIO. I was thinking of buying the Lian Li Galahad as in my mind it will help expel the heat outside the case which can later be handled by the exhaust fan rather than a air cooler which will put more heat inside the system
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I'm thinking of the new glacier one from phanteks with the new asetek gen 7 design for the 10850k. 240mm is $138 280mm is $153 360mm is $185 Which is worth considering I'm putting in to the phanteks P500a case.
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Hello What the best thermal paste for watercooling. Thanks
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I understand that when an AIO is mounted with the pump at the highest point in the loop, it will likely suffer due to air collecting in the pump, which can be bad for the motor/impeller/etc. This is a good reason not to mount rads below the CPU block in most typical AIOs. Problem is, in some (mostly ITX SFF) cases, there is simply no other option. For cases that require an “inverted” orientation as mentioned above, I’m wondering whether it’s enough of a solution to select one of those oddball AIOs that locate the pump in the radiator or inline with the tubes? Certainly this would protect the pump, keeping it submerged in liquid. However, any air in the loop is still going to find its way to the CPU block, which will eventually hurt cooling potential, correct? This would hurt thermal performance and could potentially even damage the CPU block as plastics are exposed to heat that can’t be dissipated by the liquid as designed. I doubt it would be a problem from day one (assuming you get a reasonably full AIO) but as permeation occurs and more air finds its way into the system, I can imagine that the relatively weak impeller pump would struggle to push liquid across a dried out CPU block. In fact if this were the case, wouldn’t you still eventually see too much strain on the pump, if it has to work harder and harder with degrading results? I’m kind of wondering... if I already don’t have any other options aside from the inverted orientation (CPU block up top), does it even matter where the pump is?
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Budget (including currency): 5600 DKK Country: Denmark Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Battlefield, Assetto Corsa Competizione (etc.), photo editing and engineering studies. So, I've been looking at upgrading my PC for a while now, and now is the time. My current build looks like this: i5-4690k Asus GTX 1060 OC 6GB 16GB 1600 MHz DDR3 RAM MSI Z97 PC Mate 120 mm AIO watercooler I have considered two options. 1. Spend most of it on a new graphicscard like a 3060, or maybe a used 1080 or 1080 Ti, and save the rest. 2. Upgrade the CPU to a 9th or 10th gen i7, get a new motherboard, upgrade my RAM to 32 GB DDR4 and get a new 240 mm watercooler. Any input would be greatly appreciated
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Hi, what cooler should I look for a i7 10700F ? I want my CPU at 4,7 GHz in optimal parameters. I was thinking of an AIO, instead of an Air-cooling one. Budget : 90 $ Thanks in advance !
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As you know the Arctic liquid Freezer II 360 AIO features three stock Arctic P12 fans, which are daisy chained TOGETHER with the pump. What does this mean? The 3 fans + the pump is essentially a SINGLE cable that you plug in to the motherboard's pump header. QUESTION: Would e.g. three daisy chained (plugged into the Arctic LF II AIO daisy chaining cable) Corsair LL120 fans work just as well, or would that present a problem? The reason I'm asking is due to possible power requirements. I presume there is no issue, but would still like some advice, as I am still planning some things. I'm going to be powering the LED's separately via the Corsair Commander Pro. The main build: CPU: 5900X Cooler: Arctic LF II 360 Motherboard: ROG X570 Strix-E Memory: 32GB G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 GPU: waiting for the potential release of the RTX 3080 Ti, and for anyone asking - no I don't mind the wait, even with my components waiting quietly in storage at the moment Storage: 970 EVO Plus 2TB PSU: Corsair RM1000x Since I'm still planning this build I presume this can be posted under New Builds and Planning? If not I apologize in advance, thank you for understanding. -
I'm trying to OC my cpu and im getting 89C when stress testing, is that okay? My CPU Cooler is a Corsair H100i platinum is there better? If so what is the best? I want to be able to rock this thing and use its power. Im new to overclocking and im following tutorials online. Also, I only have 1 case fan, is that cool? Would getting more case fans lower my cpu temp since its an AIO?
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Hi, over the past month after swicthing from stock cooler to the Kraken M22 my temps av just been really unstable. Specs: Mobo: Asus ROG Strix x470-F Gaming CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x Alt Cpu: Ryzen 7 2700x RAM: 32GB 3200Mhz HyperX DDR4 GPU: Asus RTX 3070 Twin OC PSU: CM V750 750WATT Case: NZXT H500 AIO: Kraken M22 So the last couple of days Ive been notatting temps for diff actions and the number are pretty wired. Boot to bios and the temps read 71C Doing nothin at desktop (only with HWinfo up) and the temps read everything from 35C to 72C (not been taking an avrg from there sadly.) No actions except Google chrome and the avg temp is 70C+ Running a game like pes 2020 and the temps hit max at 90C++ Undervolting doesnt seem to help either. Turning of boost helps by an avrg of 5C Any tips?
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So I can't control the included RGB fans of the NZXT X73 that's currently connected to my MSI X570 UNIFY. As far as I can tell I have EVERY available plug inserted into the right slot, and the fans themselves are evident or that because that do light on, There just, very dimm. BUT I have no way to control them, Not via NZXT cam or even the Motherboards MSI dragon software. I'm stuck in a tough spot, and have got no better answer of how to fix this. Suggestion or past experience please!
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Hi! Ok so my situation has gone from bad to worse! this is my first ever build, put everything together and first try it booted up! The AIO fans and lights came in but the case fans didn’t, but I figured I’d install windows while it was turned on, installed perfectly. I shut down and decided to try fix the fan situation, so I changed the Lian Li AIO to be powered by SATA (followed the manual instructions) and have the case fans connected to the motherboard where the AIO fans were plugged in. turn on pc, no fans turn on and AIO isn’t lit up either, I went into BIOS and could make the AIO fans spin but with no lights, I exited without saving tho as I didn’t want to make any damaging changes but that at least showed the fans did work somehow. Redid the wiring again to original setup, no fans or AIO come on, tried different pins on the motherboard for ARGB and fans etc, no luck. Now today there’s a new problem, when I click the on switch on the PSU the pc powers on for a few seconds then turns off (no fans and even RAM not lighting up anymore), the actual power button on the case doesn’t do anything so I have no idea what I’ve done to make this happen. Redid my wiring again making extra sure I followed all the instructions and it’s not changed at all. I’m really upset but trying to stay positive. If anyone can help I’d really appreciate it! also my fan set up is backwards because I had to rearrange the AIO to fit with the GPU since I miscalculated how thick the radiator was lol system specs: CPU Ryzen 5 5600x GPU RTX 3070 Gigabyte Vision OC Motherboard ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 AIO Lian Li Galahad 240 PSU ADX W750 ATX power supply SSD Corsair MP600 Force Series Gen 4 1TB M.2 RAM Adata XPG Spectrix D60G 16GB (8 x 2) 3600 Case BitFenix Nova Mesh SE TG with 4 ARGB fans included
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I've successfully installed my X73 on my motherboard, but the RGB led lighting isn't very bright, and I can't control it in software. I've got all the cables plugged I mean, for the lights to show up i'd have to of had them plugged in right??. Maybe i'm missing something? A different header perhaps, help please!
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Hey All, I know there is probably a thread that addresses this already, but I couldn't find it. I recently was introduce to the "P-ATX V2" SFF Case and have been entertaining the idea of moving my current 5900x/3070 set up into something of the sort. I have done a little research and have found that the main problem with this idea are the CPU temps and finding an adequate cooler to contain them. I currently have my 5900x clocked to 4.2GHz @ 1.096v with temps of around 40C idle and 65C at MAX load using a 240mm AIO. If I were to switch to a SFF case I would either need to switch to a 120mm rad or a low-profile air cooler (such as an NH-L9a or CRYORIG C7) due to CPU clearance and general space availability. I was hoping to get some guidance on which you guys think would be the best route as to not cook my CPU, any advice/help would be appreciated
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Trying to figure out the best CPU cooling option for Ryzen 5 5600x in my SFF build, using the Phanteks Evolv Shift 2 Air. Was going to use the H80i v2 but I’m having a hell of a time getting the tubes to fit. Also a bit concerned about longevity/performance with the pump mounted above rad (RE: Gamers Nexus’ now infamous video). Would like to keep the pc as quiet as reasonably possible... I don’t overclock heavily, mostly using for gaming (some CPU-intensive titles like Rust). I’m considering switching to a NZXT M22 for the inverted pump arrangement and easier fit, but not sure about performance of that AIO. (I also like that I can get one without shipping). looked at Corsair H5, but really have no idea about it’s performance, being such a weird format. Would also consider air coolers but it seems like anything that improves significantly on the stock AMD Wraith Stealth just won’t fit in the 85 mm clearance. The build: Case: Phanteks Evolv Shift Air 2 Mobo: Asus B550-I CPU: Ryzen 5 5600x VGA: Radeon RX 6900 XT PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Case fans: whatever I need to make it work, high static pressure. Bottom intake, rear exhaust CPU cooler: ???
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Hi everyone, I just upgraded the fans on my Corsair H100i aio for greater performance. They are in a push confirmation at the top of the case like everything was before. My question however is when I put my hand on the outside of the case to check airflow there is only air coming from the right side of the radiator as if the other side is blocked. I was curious is this normal or is this something I need to fix. Thank you
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So I just bought a Corsair H100 Pro Capellix AIO cooler... as far as temps go it’s fantastic... never above 40C under heavy loads on my 2700x (I know it’s old)... only problem is it makes a constant humming noise. I made sure to mount the pump at the lowest part of the loop, and even did some case gymnastics to make sure there was no air trapped in there. I tried to get the rpm on the pump lower to try and lessen the noise but the lowest speed is stil 2200rpm which is nuts. I’m fairly certain the noise is coming from a sympathetic vibration caused by the AM4 mount.. I ran the pump unmounted for a few seconds and it was basically silent. I’ve tried putting in some small rubber washers on the retention hook screws to lessen the vibration as well as using a thermal pad as opposed to paste for a little bit of vibration deadening as well... and it has has helped a LITTLE... my question is has anyone else experienced this problem? Should I rma it? Should I return it to Best Buy and get another H100i Rgb Platinum (non Capellix)? I used to have one but it was having problems disconnecting from usb (as that’s what Corsair used to power it) and I tried everything I could think of to trouble shoot it... to no avail so that’s why I got the new one (and the commander core wiring is SO much better than the Pro) but the hum is kinda driving me nuts as one of the reasons for water cooling besides temps is less noise... I wanted to stay in the Corsair family.. because although it’s far from perfect... iCue is the best combined RGB cooling/fan profile app app out there... and as we all know more RGB means more faster games right? also please forgive my use of “...” instead of proper punctuation... I just write in a stream of consciousness and whenever I finish a thought I always just add an ellipses (...)... sorry ill add a video of the noise it’s making when I get home later
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Hey all. I purchased a 980ti hybrid from EVGA almost six years ago, and lately my temps have been pretty toasty compared to a year or so ago. I used to sit around the low 30s at idle and maybe 50 or so under load, but now I've noticed that even under just general web browsing, my temps increase steadily until they hit the low 50s and then plateau; they won't get any lower after my system has been on for any length of time. Under real loads (gaming, torture test, etc) they get into the high 60s but never cools below 50. I understand that thermally the card is in no danger until well above 80, but still the numbers are concerning. The tubing is VERY warm even under idle though I do feel the liquid moving, and the rear exhaust is also very warm. Adjusting the fan does nothing (even ramping it up to 100%) to cool the card. I'm not very mechanically inclined and don't trust myself to tear it apart...but what do you guys think? The GPU market is chaotic right now and I really would rather not purchase another card if I don't have to. I'm using Precision X1 to monitor the temps and make adjustments. I also swapped the original fan that came with it for a Noctua one that is designed for radiator use, and that is plugged directly into the motherboard. I've cleared dust out with some compressed air the best I could. I've also ran the card at stock and have never overclocked it since the day I got it; I literally plopped it into my system and never touched it apart from cleaning it every so often. As a side note, this is a brand new system I put together only a couple weeks ago. I switched teams to Ryzen. I don't know if that matters or not. The case is a TUF GT501 and has three intake fans, a rear exhaust w/ radiator for the GPU and top exhaust for my CPU AIO. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. EDIT: I ran a GPU specific benchmark (Heaven) and my temps slowly climbed until they hit their max safe temp (83 set my X1).
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Hi i just bought The corsair h100x and connected The pump to The cpu_opt and its 2 120mm fans to The cpu_fan. I have a ryzen 7 3700x but The problem is that when my computer is turnd on it isvery loud. Suld i set a custom fan curve? Dose The fan spred on The aio matte ore shuld i just sett a custom fan curve for The pump? IF someone can help i would appriciate it thanks.
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Hi i just bought The corsair h100x and connected The pump to The cpu_opt and its 2 120mm fans to The cpu_fan. I have a ryzen 7 3700x but The problem is that when my computer is turnd on it isvery loud. Suld i set a custom fan curve? Dose The fan spred on The aio matte ore shuld i just sett a custom fan curve for The pump? IF someone can help i would appriciate it thanks.
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Got a few questions in regards to cooling for you guys. I recently did a new build and have a few cooling questions. Below are my questions and set up. 1. After cleaning the h100i v2 I noticed the outline of my old cpu on the aio (see picture). Should I be concerned about this or replace my AIO? 2. When gaming, the cpu ranges from 79-84 celsius with no overclock. To me that seems a bit high. What are your thoughts? Current set up CPU: 5900x CPU Cooler: Corsair h100i V2 installed on top of case as exhaust Ram: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Motherboard: ASUS B550-F GPU: 3080 Strix Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow Front of case has two 140mm fans for intake Top of case is the AIO set up as exhaust Back fan 120 MM set up as exhaust
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Is there a noticeable difference in performance between the AER RBG 2 fans and the fans that come with the kraken z63?
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Hi to anyone reading this, I just bought a 240mm aio (I think the pump's an Asetek 4th gen unit) for my reference vega 56 (you can probably guess why), and realised that there aren't enough fan headers on the motherboard to connect both the fans (2x Noctua nf-f12) and pump into the motherboard. I'm also keeping the blower fan on the gpu, as I'm going to use it to provide cooling for the VRMs, so plugging either of these into the header on the card isn't an option. I do have a molex to 2 pin (there is a hole for, but no third pin on it) adapter though, which I can use to plug either the fans or pump into. From what I've seen online so far, most aio pumps run at 100% all the time, but I can't help wonder then why they have a third pin (as on case fans this is used only for DC fan control as far as I'm aware), and so whether using a 2 pin adapter is safe or recommended. Of course I'd want to be able to control the fans on the radiator as well if possible, as even using the low noise adaptors, the fans are quite audible.
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