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Hey Fellas, Since i did a BIOS update for my Ryzen 7 7700X i need multiple restarts for my AIO MSI Coreliquid 240R V2 to cool my CPU. When im starting my PC Temps just begin to rise with fans spinning on 100% but with no affect. After some restarts it just works and the CPU wont exceed 50 Degrees and fans spinning normal. I already checked if everything is plugged in properly and i checked BIOS if somethings not showing up. Im out of Ideas. Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX with Bios Version F6B

My System build is 2 years old and I have started facing the problem of instant temperature raise in seconds from around 37*C upto 75-80*C while using FL studio DAW. CPU frequency also keeps fluctuating from 800MHz to around 5098 MHz without overclocking. I have tried resetting the bios to default and shuffled between balanced performance and high performance mode, not of much help. What could be the reason for these problem I am facing? Is it because water coolant might have evaporated from the AIO? Please help me sort it ! Thank you !! My System configuration : Intel i9 10th gen 10900k unlocked CPU Asus TUF Gaming Z590 plus WiFi motherboard Samsung EVO Plus NVMe 1tb Samsung 1TB SSD Toshiba 4tb HHD GSkill Trident Z Neo 32gb 3600MHz Ram Lian Li Galahad AIO 240 CPU water cooler Lian Li ST120 RGB Fans Cooler Master MWE 750v2 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply Lian Li 011 dynamic case. Windows 10 pro os

I had the i7 10700k for less than two years now, never opened the PC case or meddled with any of the hardware since I've built it two years ago (with all new hardware) and it always ran well with super low and stable temps 45-65 while gaming and never topping over 65. the cooler used was the MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R. last month I experienced lots of PC freezes so I decided to check the temps and they were soaring over 95 when opening up any AAA game such as Uncharted, Hogwarts Legacy, RDR2, etc... and kept going up until the PC just gives up and freezes. desktop is 30-40 which is still high compared to what I was getting when first getting the PC. changed the CPU cooler to a new one since everyone told me it was the Pump failing. today I installed a DeepCool LT720 which is supposed to be a really good AIO, all cables are plugged in and all is in check, thermal paste, airflow, fan configuration... and I'm almost getting the exact same problem, it's as if the Pump was non-reactive to changing CPU Load, the fans go up in speed but so do the temps, and extremely fast at doing so. IDK if this is related to the problem in some way but the Motherboard I'm using is a (Gigabyte Z490 VISION G) If anyone could steer me in the right direction to deal with this problem it'd be much appreciated, I'm very worried about this.

Looking to get this CPU and cooling combo, does anyone have this combo and how is the performance? I was also considering going for an AIO, if anyone knows any good AIO that would keep this CPU cool could you recommend a few? Thank you.

My biggest fear with an AIO is that the punmp will fail and I won't know it till the CPU starts to thermal throttle heavily. By the are the mounting backets for the intel 1700 socket the same or does each cooler have it own type?

Budget (including currency): £1500-200 Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, Small amounts of rendering, coding and video producing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): i7 12700KF, 3060 12gb, 750w PSU Hi! Apologies for needing to ask this question as I can't find a very good explanation to my situation. I'm on the final stages of building my PC but I'm having a bit of trouble. I can't see whether I want Air Cooling or an AIO, AIOs scare me because they seem complicated and I want nothing less than water all in my PC, I do not know reliability or if I'll have to perform maintenance on them. Air cooling seems simple but I cant find a good affordable two fan LG1700 44m ram clearance cooler. Some suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks!

I understand that this cpu is supposed to run hot and I would like to minimize this. I will be having this aio outside of the case (hyte y60). Just wanting a general range of temperatures to be expected and if there any better coolers (preferably in white to match the rest of the build)

Hello! I'm currently looking for a replacement AIO for my main rig (i7-9700k) and an air cooler for my backup setup (i7-4770k). Recently, my Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 stopped working, the pump was making rattling noises and I had to move the case around to get it to start. It's quite dissapointing that it failed after just two years, particularly because this is the first time I've experienced an AIO cooler dying before the 5-year mark. I've started the RMA process (I believe the new 6-year warranty is retroactive) but they haven't responded yet (it's been 4 days) and I can't wait two months for it to finish since I use that PC for heavy workloads. Anyway, after checking the CPU Cooler Tier List, I found the following models available at local stores: AIO Tier 1: Deepcool Infinity LT520 240 - $127.06 Deepcool LS520 240 ARGB - $142.88 AIO Tier 2: Cougar Aqua 280 ARGB - $83.83 EVGA CLC 240 RGB - $113.40 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 - $124.40 Lian Li Galahad 240 Black ARGB - $129.71 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 - $143.86 Air Tier 2: DeepCool Assassin III - $119.07 Air Tier 3: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.Black - $155.97 I have read only positive reviews about the DeepCool LT520, so I'm considering it. However, the prices of the Cougar Aqua 280 and EVGA CLC 240 have caught my eye. Since there's a possibility of having a spare Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240, I'm interested in trying something different, like the Lian Li Galahad 240. As for my backup PC, I have heard that Noctua is releasing an update this year, so I am leaning towards the DeepCool Assassin III. Are there any important details about these models that I should know, such as pump quality or warranty information? What would you recommend? Thank you in advance!

Hey everyone! I hope it's the right place to make the topic, sorry if it's not. I'm about to buy a used RTX 3090 Aorus Xtreme Waterforce from ebay, the seller said it's been used for mining for a year around, still in a great condition, haven't been tempered with ( no repasting or repadding ) warranty sticker still intact. But i have noticed and asked for more pictures because i have seen some rainbow marks on the PCI-e interface, I was looking for any similar topics around for hours, could not find anything like this. I have attached 2 pictures, should i be concerned it's fried or anything like that? Many thanks in advance!

I've been trying to find an aio which is fairly quiet and has a good cooling performance from a reliable company, the max i would be willing to spend is around £160, i only need a 240mm one and would like one with an ldc screen (not a definate requirtement) or good looking rgb. Looks are important so I'm not going with arctic's aios since i dont like the look of them. Has anyone got any suggestions? Any help is appreciated

I did a routine dust clean and replaced the thermal paste of my Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO, mounted to the middle-top of my case (the waterblock below the tubing entrance on the radiator, the CPU to the left of the radiator aka rear of the case). The pump/waterblock was previously plugged in to the CPU_fan header and the fans in the usual SYS_fan headers. After the clean I booted the PC and was met with temps going up to 80+ celsius purely on boot and noticed that there was no water being moved around in the tubes, no sounds or vibrations. I tried plugging the waterblock/pump header into SYS_fan headers as well as removing all the fans from any headers and running the waterblock from the CPU header alone but nothing changed. I checked the waterblock speed in the BIOS and the CPU_header was being registered at around 2600rpm set to Normal on my Gigabyte b85-HD3 rev 2.1. It did jump from 2600 to 0 a few times in a split second, but I figured it might just be the BIOS catching up to me changing the fan speeds to try and fix it. The Cooler Master logo on the waterblock is lit up and the fans are of course spinning from the SYS_fan headers. It seems to be registering and powered on. I reset the CMOS as well as updated the BIOS to the latest version. I removed the waterblock and reapplied the thermal paste, and also removed the radiator and rotated it a bunch along with the computer which is now sitting on it's rear (on account of the possibility of air bubbles). I also plugged a normal fan into the CPU_fan header and it worked fine, including changing the speed in the BIOS. I managed to bring the temps down to around 30-40 by reapplying the thermal paste and tightening the waterblock better, but the temps jump quickly to around 60 when any activity occurs. I've seen mentions of possible air bubbles in the (now somewhat older) AIO but the water is not being moved around whatsoever when booting or when the PC is running. There were some very short burbles a couple times but the water is not being moved at all it seems. I'll leave it overnight to maybe josh the bubbles a little while it is on it's back, if any are present. Otherwise I don't really know what could be causing this, unless a pump can die and still be registered as working? Thank you in advance for any help! Specs: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 64-bit Intel Core i7 4790 @ 3.60GHz NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. B85-HD3

A bit of context for you I really like Noctua coolers from the performance I I seen for them and the Deep Cool LS720 seems pretty promising for an AIO. The Buget of the build is $2500 and I am coming pretty close to it already.

I've been planning on getting an aio recently but am not sure which one to get, i decided i might aswel get an aio for my ryzen 5 5600x because the stock cooler is rediculously loud and i hate it, ive been considering 3 brands specifically for the aio: MSI, Aorus, Corsair. But am having trouble deciding which ones best. I'm limited to a 240mm aio since the top of my corsiar 4000d airflow doesnt have enough room for a 360mm one, specific ones ive been considering are the: Gigabyte Aorus waterforce 240, corsair iCue h100x rgb elite and the msi mag coreliquid R. Right now im considering the Waterforce 240 the most since i think its the best looking one and will nicely match my motherboard, ive read reviews for it and know its supposed to be a very decent aio, msi ones are apparently loud and thats not exactly what i want and the corsiar one is apparently very good. But i just wanted to ask which one will get the best balance of looks, cooling and low noise Also if there are any other recommendations then please send a link to them Thanks

I just got all my parts and I am seconds from beginning my build however I need help deciding where everything will get plugged in. Let me set the stage in terms of equipment! Case: Lian Li 011 Dynamic EVO Motherboard: MSI z790 MPG Carbon WIFI Fans: 10 Lian Li 120mm Uni v2 Fans -I'm swapping 3x v1 fans on Radiator for V2 AIO: Lian Li 120 Galahad 360 My strategy: I want to utilize all of the Daisy Chain advantages that I can with v2; therefore, my end goal is to wind up not using ANY USB hubs and 1 single fan controller. I was going to Daisy Chain 3x Fans on the Radiator (set to exhaust) and utilize the cord that comes with Lian Li Univ2 Single Fan Boxes to plug them into the CPU_Fan Header (to allow CPU thermals to self regulate control). Then take the other side of that cable back into the controller SYNC 2 slot. (The controller has (2) JST 3 PIN ARGB Sync Ports labeled "SYNC 2 & SYNC 4). After that, I was going to install the AIO (which has 2 cables). I was going to plug the 3-pin JST into "SYNC 4 slot" on the Controller, and plug the other cable into the Motherboard AIO Pump Header. Then I was going to Daisy Chain (x3) Uni V2 Fans on the Side (set to intake) to (x3) Uni v2 Fans on the Bottom (set to intake). The Daisy Chain will be through the proprietary single cable for linking groups of V2 Fans. Then I was going to run a single cable from the bottom fan group to the Controller Port 1. Following that, I was going to install a SINGLE v2 fan on the REAR of the case set to Exhaust. I was going to use Lian Li's single cable and plug that fan into Port 2 on the controller. (At this point we are now occupying all of the 3-PIN JST ARGB SYNC ports on the controller (#2 & #4), and only 2 of the 4 ports on the controller using Lian Li's Proprietary Connector. Now I was going to run the controller to 2 seperate tails of SATA Power (to get maximum power from PSU) and plug the main USB 9-PIN into my USB 2.0 Header on the motherboard. Furthermore, I was ALSO going to plug the controller into the 3-PIN ARGB Header on the Motherboard and plug the 4pin connector into the Motherboard 4-PIN SYS_FAN Header. I believe this will give me the ability to SYNC all my Fans and devices to the Motherboard software and control them that was as well. (So I am not stuck just using L Connect 3 for everything). Here is where my question comes in, I just noticed my CASE has a 3-PIN female connector for RGB. Do I need to split one of my 3-PIN JST Sync connections and get that CASE RGB into my controller Port somehow using an adapter? Or should I just plug the case RGB into the Motherboard? Will I be able to control my CASE RGB only through Motherboard software? I'm curious what I should do. I'm good at making custom cables, so my thought was to create a Y-Cable that merges 2 of those JST connections, that way I can plug the case into a SYNC RGB port. However, if plugging it directly into the MOBO isn't an issue and it's controllable later in L-Connect due to the Controller being plugged into the MOBO, I won't even bother. Any advice, tweaks, suggestions is GREATLY appreciated here. I'm new to this community and I'm hoping somebody else who has built something similar can chime in and help. Thank you all!

PLS HELP CHOOSE RIGHT PHANTEK AIO 360: Phanteks GLACIER ONE 360 M25 & Phanteks GLACIER ONE 360MP & Phanteks GLACIER ONE 360MPH WHAT DIFFERENT??? WHAT IS THE BEST? TKS FOR ALL

So I have a 7700k, the cooler though has always given me issues. Its not becuase its old. Since day one I have had really weird overheat blue screens when im watching Netflix or something low demand, gaming and stress tests are fine, I have changed the thermal paste, Im pretty sure theres no air in my pump. Idle it runs at 40-45 water temp, sometimes 50 after gaming, higher during, with about 23 degree ambient. Its been happening for so long, but very rarely and I'm just fed up with crashes now. Any reccomendations as to what it may be? It came with SP fans, i bought the fancy new (at the time) mag levs, that didnt do it. I'm down to get a new air cooler, because I have never been impressed with this h115.

Hello, I'm going to buy the Be quite Pure Base 500FX case and I'm wondering what kind of cooler I should have in my CPU for this case. For better temperatures, is better to install AIO 240mm (Be quite Pure Loop 2 FX) or an Air cooler (Pure Rock 2 FX)?

Budget (including currency): 2500$ Country: not important Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: rust csgo premiere pro Photoshop and blender Hey there, Im about to build a pc with the "nzxt h9 flow" case. Now, from what i read a 2 fan aio is enough to cool my CPU, but in the front fan cage i have enough space for 3 fans so i wanted to know, do I: A. Buy a 2 fan aio and put it there with nothing below B. By a 2 fan aio and a fan and put them on (Aio first and the fan below) C. Just get a 3 fan aio and slap it in there I wanted to know is it a bad thing to do option B. All tho i dont mind spend 100$ for the bigger aio i prefer not to of course and aesthetics is the last of my concerns If you have an answer or even other suggestions feel free to let me know Thank you for the help and have a great day <3

I just installed my Ryzen 7 5700X and after booting, it said something about Tpm, so I clicked Y to reset it. It seems to be working fine, but my Ethernet stopped working and my cpu fans are constantly spinning on my aio (spinning fast). How do I fix this? Are they’re any drivers I need to install? Do I maybe need to add more thermal paste?

I am planning to build a PC in the new Fractal North case. I won't have enough space for a 360 radiator along with a 40 series GPU, but I've seen a build where the person mounts their 280 radiator sideways (level with the CPU) on the mesh version of the case and have been considering doing the same. Otherwise I will be forced to buy a 240 radiator and mount it on the top side of the case. My question is if mounting the AIO sideways would kill it/my CPU faster? Attached is the the build I spoke about (source: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/46BcCJ )

Ooookay, so I have a prebuilt from origin I've had for going on 13 years. It's the large style mellenia tower as seen here: Anyway these towers come with cpu fan controllers that look like this: ^^I honestly have no idea what to make of or do with these things, still seems relevant^^ The hardware specs are: Asus x99 deluxe(unsure on the deluxe bit) 4x DDR4 16g Corsair vengeance ram sticks Intel i7 5820k 3.3hz CPU Gigabyte rtx 3060 (12G) GPU EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 PSU (Edit I noticed while typing this that my PC has only had access to 16gbs of ram and I've had those other 3 sticks for a very long time .... Sadge) My last AIO cooler was an "Enermax" model, I had a repair store install that around 5 years ago so I'm unsure the exact model but it looks identical to everyone you see on any website from that manufacturer . The model I have has 1 CPU fan cable. Simple The new Aio (when I say new I mean, less than a month old) is a Corsair iCUE H150i Elite from this listing: https://a.co/d/7o9u28a But it has a "tack pin cable"? As it's shown in the official video from Corsair labs but it also has a USB internal cable that connects the motherboard to the led/fan cable hub. Super great plug em in, right? WRONG I updated the aio bc the last one just turned off and wouldn't turn back on. Now we're a month further into the present and the new aio has shut off randomly and won't come back on... I replaced thermal paste with the last one thinking the pump was going just inaudible past the fans. But now the new one lights up so it's pretty hard to ignore that the pump isn't just malfunctioning. The sucker isn't getting any power at all! Now if I plug the old one in, suddenly that one works! Which is great and I'm totally cool to buy some thermal paste and be completely satisfied putting the old one back on but it's just pretty clear the problem hasn't been resolved and I'm gonna be bumping into it until then. So, if you have any insight or suggestions I'm stoked to hear! My current theory is that I may need a new cmos battery. The context for that guess is that over the last week or so my PC has been booting in bios bc it's unsure which disk to boot. At first I thought that one drive with all my media on it was just close to full and that made my PC a little confused but since I had two others with space and the near full one wasn't housing my os or anything, nbd I'd get around to it. But since my bios could effect how my PC recognizes fans and I've never replaced my battery Ps. I did use my cmos flush button with everything unplugged and grounded. No progress.

Hi there, I installed my Corsair H150i RGB Pro XT last night. Selected hardware specs for reference: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS Micro ATX AM4 Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RMx White (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply I swapped out the supplied Corsair ML120 fans with three Noctua NF-P12 1700 PWM fans I already had. These were confirmed working in other builds and my choice was mainly down to aesthetics. The radiator is top mounted as an exhaust with the fans in a push configuration. I also have 6 Arctic P12 PWM PST fans as intakes, all of which are connected to a SATA-powered fan hub. While all the Noctua fans on the radiator are spinning, I can’t seem to control them in the iCUE software. No matter which profile I apply, including custom ones, the fans stay at the following RPM: Fan 2 is too loud at that RPM. I’d like to set them all to roughly 800-900 rpm. I have confirmed the following: The pump is connected to the USB header on the motherboard Each 4 pin Noctua fan is connected to the fan splitter coming off the pump The 3 pin connector coming off the pump is connected to the CPU fan header on the motherboard The product is connected to a spare SATA power cable Can anybody help? My first thought would be to retry with the supplied Corsair ML120 fans. Please let me know if there is anything else I can try! I have never attempted to control fan speeds through the BIOS. Thanks!

So, In the near future I'm going to buy a new AIO cooler (probably Cooler Master ML120L/120 Lite) and, as any cooler does, comes with an included fan. Now, I currently have only one fan1 on my Cooler Master MB311L case (on the back, pulling air out of the system), and I want to replace it with the AIO radiator. Now, I'll have an extra fan (the included one with the case), that I was thinking to put in front of the case, making an horizontal pull-push air configuration. What happens (and its the main question of this topic) is that I have a GPU that has horizontal fins2 (looking it from the front of the GPU), so, the only way for the hot air to go is from the front (PCIe bracket) and the back (Front of the case) of the GPU. I was wondering, if I add a fan, that pushes air in the other way as the gpu pushes it3, will it make it perform worse than just not putting fan in front of it? What other fan configs can I make that wont make my thermals worse? Note 1: Current Setup. Note 2: Horizontal GPU fins. Note 3: New Setup. Regards.

Looking to move on from the stock cooler on my 5600x. I'd like to try an AIO, both for aesthetics and performance, and the Galahad seems to fit the bill (white option, great RGB look, silent enough, good heat dissipation) and received good/great reviews. I'm trying to decide between the 240mm and 360mm versions and would appreciate some additional discussion Normally I'm all for overkill, but this feels, ostensibly, like a situation where I can safely choose the smaller option with no appreciable loss in performance. Am I wrong to think so? At 65W, the 5600X isn't exactly a furnace, and I have no plans to change out that CPU after what I went through to get it. I'm using a Core P3 (pictured), so space isn't an issue. However, I'm more concerned with ensuring with having enough cooling headroom that the eventual OC'ing won't push the fans to their highest/loudest speeds. Is the 240 sufficient for my use case, or am I setting myself up for disappointment and regret?

I have a Corsair H115i AIO water cooler. It’s the original one with no RGB that came out a few years back (link here for reference). It’s an older model before this new 1200 socket type came out and therefore doesn’t specifically indicate compatibility with the 1200 socket type. Does anyone know if 1151 compatible CPU coolers will also work for 1200 sockets or does it require an upgrade?