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Budget (including currency): 3000 ish dollars with shipping Country: Maldives Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: AAA games plus the competitive league and Apex. Work loads include GIS and creative works such as Photoshop and Premier. Statistical analysis using software such as SPSS Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): currently using a laptop (Lenovo legion y540). Noticed thermal throttles making some games unplayable. So upgrading from that. Have a monitor (Asus VG248 QG 165Hz). I'll attach a screenshot of which build I am going for. Please give some feedback which I can change the build to make it more cost, Ive posed one before but I am doing it again to ask for feedback on the updated build. Currently looking for a fractal design torrent compact as a case.

Hi, I am currently experiencing some high GPU temperatures in game, maximum temperature reaching around 88C and I would love to reduce that. I've recently applied fresh thermal paste to both the CPU and GPU to ensure the best possible outcome here. Currently, I'm running a 240 AIO intake on the front of the case and only a single 120mm exhaust fan at the rear. I invested in some Noctua case fans as you can see in the parts list below and before installing I would like to get your opinion on whether or not to switch the 240 AIO intake on the front, to a 240 exhaust on top. No doubt the 3 extra fans will help a lot, so they'll just go where the AIO isin't. Reason being, my CPU doesn't get challenged a lot in games and rarely goes above 65C, e.g. it has a lot of temperature headroom. Any quick tips before I undertake my endeavor, leave a comment below Note: I do have, and want, and need an overclock on my GPU to reach 144 FPS on Warzone 2, so this is why I'm exploring this option. Many thanks. CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Asus ROG Ryujin 240 RGB AIO 121.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage: Sabrent Rocket Q 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: MSI VENTUS OC GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card Case: Corsair Carbide Series 275R ATX Mid Tower Case Case Fan: Noctua S12B redux-1200 PWM 59.1 CFM 120 mm Fan Case Fan: Noctua S12B redux-1200 PWM 59.1 CFM 120 mm Fan Case Fan: Noctua S12B redux-1200 PWM 59.1 CFM 120 mm Fan

I just bought a new Kraken Z73 from microcenter, but it doesn’t seem to be doing its job. I went to install windows on my new build today, and when I came back to my computer it was in the BIOS because it safety shut off from the CPU getting to hot. It was idling at 55 C in the BIOS. Neither of the tubes for the AIO felt cold, and when I touched the pump, it wasn’t vibrating. I restarted the pc, and noticed when I first start the pc, the pump vibrates for a second, and then goes still. I have gone over the internet and I cannot find out what is wrong with the pump, and I’m worried I will have to get a new one. I’m using an ASUS X670E-E motherboard, with a 7900X. Things I have tried: •Reseated the SATA power connector •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_FAN header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_OPT header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CHA_FAN header •Set the Q-Fan control DC and PWM to Full •Reseated the pump to the CPU with fresh thermal paste

I built my first PC in May of 2021. From day one I've been sporadically getting the error "WHEA UNCORRECTABLE ERROR" (Stop Code: Kernal-Power). The repair % never goes past 0 and I have to force reset the PC. After that it works just fine for a good while (a few weeks to a few months sometimes) until it randomly crashes again. According to Event Viewer it's happened at least 19 times in the 2 years I've owned it. Here are the specs of my PC: -i9 9900k, -GTX 1070, -Z390-I ASUS motherboard -Noctua NH-L9i (had a Kraken m22 originally but it has died twice. I currently have their "upgraded" model, the Kraken 120, as a backup) -650GM EVGA PSU, -16GB Trident Z RAM, -2T Samsung M.2 NVMe, -120mm case fan ×1 -140mm case fan ×2 Here're the original posts of when I first built it. 1. https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/n2mk4w/update_my_first_build_is_done_and_running_to_my/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share 2. https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/n2ef4v/my_first_build_and_its_an_itx_wish_me_luck/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb I have two main issues - ISSUE 1: Blue screen crashes There is no concrete pattern to these crashes. I often game heavily on it and most of the time it crashes while I'm just on chrome or Discord. From my research, it seems that the WHEA error is indicative of a hardware issue. I already ran RAM tests and did a reinstall of Windows, but I have no clue if I did those properly since it's been quite awhile since then. I have a few baseless guesses as to what it might be but I will say them anyway just in case it helps. 1. I purchased a kinda weird physical copy of Windows 10 Pro for a notably cheaper price than most other options on Amazon. 2. The asus motherboard needs a bios update but I'm scared of bricking my PC 3. The PSU isn't enough to handle the CPU, though everything online seems to indicate it should be more than fine minus potential temp issues 4. I feel like it might have something to do with me having multiple tabs open, sharing my screen/viewing other's screens on discord, or something to do with my multiple monitors. ISSUE 2: Overheating This one isn't as complicated. It's an ITX build and I have an i9 9900k CPU. Many people warned against it but I didn't listen. Here's the thing though, unlike what the most concerned of them claimed, on average I would have decent temps of 30-40C while idle and only 70-80C while gaming+software editing. However, two AIO pumps have died and as of today, my air cooler of only 9 months seems to have kicked the bucket as well. When it was just the AIOs I thought nothing of it since they're notorious for failing, but an air cooler should not give out this fast from what I can tell. My guesses once again: 1. These coolers ARE capable of maintaining decent temps even in an ITX build with limited airflow, but they have to work so hard against immense heat that they die extremely quickly/the paste burns out? 2. I have no idea how to change CPU settings stuff and I have mine accidentally overclocking or something dumb lol Please let me know what y'all think, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, i am making a new pc and think i have all the parts together but when i was seeing about placing the radiator for the aio i noticed the tubes would block 1 of the front or back fans if i put it on top, i dont think it would work infront with tubes down since the 4080 takes so much space and the length would be very tight but will check when the motherboard shows up. The configuration of the pc was gonna be 3 fans in front, 3 fans on top, 2 fans on top of psu shroud and 1 in the back. The case is the deepcool CH510 and the AIO is the Deepcool LS720 put 2 pictures of what i am looking at. Not sure if best to just put it in front and have tubes up, and perhaps just have to deal with some extra sound or put it on top and have to skip or even just make 2 extra holes in the case to be able to put 1 fan in the back. Anyone know what would work best?

Living in a region close to the equator it's hard to get decent cooling for my rig. And if I add tasks that maxes out CPU and GPU at the same time, then my room feels like a furnace. With CPU >85C and GPU >65C I am looking for solutions that can cool down my CPU more efficiently. Currently using MSI AIO with 360mm rad. With ambient temperature of 35C+ my idle CPU temp is over 50C. During winters (which seems to have skipped us in Mumbai this year) temps are around 33-40 on idle. Which is good because our winter temps are between 18-28 on average. I'm looking for a solution where I can bring down the CPU temps below 40 at least. Any suggestions? CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X GPU: ASUS ROG Strix 3070Ti OC Mobo: MSI x570 A Pro CPU Cooler: MSI MAG CoreLiquid 360mm Rad Thanks!

Hi Im upgrading my system a little bit to help with my thermals. Currently im baking everything in nzxt h500. So i bought Corsair 4000d flow and 360mm aio from thermaltake. Now im thinking how to setup the airflow in the case and came with an idea:(attachment) Do you guys think it makes sense? I dont want to push hot air from cpu into the case with that aio so in my opinion thats the only reasonable solution

Hi i was browsing for a aio and I came across a Corsair H115i Pro rgb for $50 so i bought it and it didnt come with the backplate and I didnt realize til now and i cant return it so i went browsing on the internet for backplate replacements because I already bought the retro fit things for lga 1700 and I bought this back plate on amazon for my aio and mobo will this work or will it mess up my computer PLS someone SEND HELP i dont wanna mess up my very first PC.

Going to pick up a Ryzen 7 5700x and wanted to get an AIO. Does anyone have any experience with this AIO and tell me if it’s worth the money? Thanks!

Hi. I am assembling my build consisting of a Ryzen 7700 in a Lian Li Lancool III. I am looking for AIO, preferably placed on top, for this build and I am not clear on the issue of AIO space requirements. I have my eye on the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 ARGB and also Cooler Master's PL360 Flux. I think both are sufficient to cool this CPU. I read reviews and it seems that the Arctic is somewhat superior, and cheaper, but its radiator is much thicker, including the fans. About 2.5 inches/ 6.5 cm. I literally don't know if it would fit in my case or even have problems with the size of the rams. On the other hand the PL360 FLux has a thinner radiator, and I think it would fit well, but I read in reviews that the length of the tube is only about 14 inches /35cm long from the base of the radiator to the base of the CPU block. Is that enough for a comfortable and safe installation on a Lancool 3? I was deciding between those two AIOs, but I accept suggestions if there are better and not more expensive models.

Hello, I'm planning to buy a AIO but I'm kinda worried of water leak and durability. I need some suggestions. I'm looking for a AIO under $100. Feel free to suggest other brands, you can also suggest AIR Cooler if its better. Yes, I tried searching but it made me more confused about what to pick. My current choice are: Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID ML240L V2 240MM ARGB WHITE Deep Cool GAMMAXX L240 V2 Additional Information: CPU: R9 5900x GPU: RTX 2060 (Will upgrade in the future) Motherboard: ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING PSU: Thermaltake Smart 730 W RAM: 32gb 3600mhz CL16

I am searching for a CPU cooler for the I7 13700kf. I have my eyes on the Silent and pure Loop 2 360mm (any size actually) but i dont know if it would be enough. Also i dont want to spend 300 Euros for a cooler. Air - Coolers are also an Option but i dont like the look of them, of course, if they are essential i'd take one. So my question is: Is the Silent Loop 2 or pure loop 2 enough for keeping it reasonably cold, and if not, what would be another option.

Hello! Sorry to bother but I'd like to seek some opinions here. Wondering if my Z73 AIO cooler is having issues and if I should RMA it. I've been using it for a year. Previously, I had a Ryzen 3600 and the temps were constantly at 70°C or more. I have since changed to 5800X3D and re-pasted with a good amount of kryonaut. The CPU temps have never gone below 50°C and goes to about 89°C while on Flight Simulator My ambient temperature is 24 degrees celsius (airconditioned room in the tropics). Not sure if it matters, I am running one 3840 x 1600 and one 2560x1440 display. What worries me is that the temps do not improve even if I were to set the CAM pump and fan curves to 100%, the 360 radiator is always cool to the touch no matter the fan/pump settings. (cooler than body temperature). According to CAM, the pump is spinning at 2300rpm at max, and I do feel some vibration on the tubes. There is an audible electrical noise even with the case closed when the pump is at 45%. Also, during re-paste, I notice there's a mark on the cold plate that couldn't be removed with isopropyl alcohol, not sure what it means. I don't think it should affect the performance, right? Feeling rather stumped, would greatly appreciate any input! Trying to avoid purchasing a temporary air cooler just to send it in for an RMA, if it turns out that this is a perfectly normal phenomenon.

Ok this is me... going to rant but maybe others can learn from my mistakes Long story short .. Purchased a number of Upgrades for my sons gaming setup this formed the basis for his Christmas present. we were going to build it up on Christmas Morning this Included a New motherboard to support New Processor I5-12600K , new case NZXT H510 , NVME boot drive to replace a full 128Gb SSD Sata drive and an IAO Cooler ( mainly because son wanted an AIO) limited budget so settled for NZXT Kracken M22 rookie mistake 1. Purchased through amazon.de : the ad stated suitable for LGA1700, So took it at face value, did not realize until Christmas day when we started building and found out the hard way that LGA1700 socket is different size than previous intel design and no bracket included with the cooler for the LGA 1700, to rub salt in found out that the Cooler was in fact "refurbed" (Caveat emptor) . (luckily the previous cooler master Heatsink and fan from old build could be "made" to fit ) else my son would have justifiably called Santa a few choice words with four letters in it on Christmas day they would have been fun .. not. Amazon in fairness did offer to refund the AIO but I've to ship it back to Germany..... pain, and if I had the bracket I'll be happy so Checked NZXT's website about the socket and bracket and it seems they will ship out said bracket FOC, great, however none of these in stock and had been none since the 28 December have been chasing every 4 or 5 days and now I feel like those pushy customers I used to hate to deal with.... so dilemma do I keep waiting in hope that NZXT actually ship the bracket because that what he wanted or do I just ship it back to amazon and refund.... Sharkie....

is this normal? im installing the kraken x63 on an intel 10th gen cpu and it is not sticking properly to the motherboard. There is some space for it to move around. Help. Anybody. Help

for ref my current gear an desired gear current old an target finished gear (mb bios updated an ready) im currently prepping to go from a 120mm aio to full custom water for my old first build iv got a 5800x on order to replace my older 2600x that has served my well but i now need more out of my older rig an i know the 5800x getting way hotter then the 2600x which with my arctic freezer II 120mm never broke 54c under load oc'ed at 4.3ghz in a 72deg room for the 5800x i know ill need more an aside from my cpu iv upgraded my from a gigabyte 1660 super oc wind-force x3 to a power color fighter 6700xt an hope that ill get close to the same cooling i got with the last gpu which as you'll see i pix this layout is what worked best for the aio an gpu , iv got the rear an fronts as intake an the tops as exhaust an the case fans on custom bios fan curve set to ramp as system temp rises an the aio in push an ramp as needed , in the past the aio was in the rear in pull the only diff between then an now is my rear mobo heat-sinks run cooler by an avg 7deg both idle/load an the gpu idle/load is 4deg higher , if i could mod the psu shroud into a ramp for the bottom front fan to scoop/direct air flow i would, but not sure how an what id use to do that with ? aside from that mod im currently trying to decide what rad & rez to get as iv got limited space from both an dont want to change layout for fans or gpu , iv got fittings , tubing , cpu block , pump an coolant so any good advice for doing this will help my current considered picks for rad & rez are with mods this id use this 50mm version of this air duct on the rear to aide cooling the rear bridge https://www.etsy.com/listing/1119238671/120mm-vrm-cooling-duct-120mm-fan-size?sts=1&variation0=2319052234 an move the top front 140mm closer to the rear to help fit a https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-airplex-radical-4-120-aluminum-fins-33702.html in place of the current aio an rig as pull over push with a 2nd 50mm right angle duct aimed up to not have rad heat blown across the mobo an use this rez https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/reservoirs/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-200-acrylic-version-bp-wtzm200ac-cl.html does this rad an rez combo seem like it could adequately cooler a 5800x possibly oc'ed to 4 to 4.3ghz to near same temps as the 120 arctic did from the 2600x heres another view but with older gpu

Hey, just installed a nzxt x63 and everything went well until I try to start it, it lights up and fans start running but the dram light shines yellow, on a strix b460f gaming mobo. I turn it off and just as an attempt remove on of the ram sticks and Bam! It boots up. I turn it off and put back the stick and somehow now it works? Why can this be and is it ok to run it now?

Ok so my computer is a I9 10900k Asus z590 a Two Corsair cmw ram Lian li galahad 240 aio Msi 3070 Recently my aio has been running a bit harder so I looked into my cpu Temps while underload(playing wz2.0/cinabench) when clocked to 4.8 ghz + it has been getting temps ranging from mid 80°c to mid 90s with spikes of 100°c then starts to thermal throttle its self. My idle temps are 35 to 45°c. (Top mounted) My aio is running 3400 rpm but I don't feel alot of heat coming from rad. I have taken it off and put new thermal paste on but hasn't made a difference. I know that 10900s run hotter but when I installed this aio a year ago I wasn't getting these temps it seams to be a new issue. Are there any steps that I can do to test other things. I'm new to computers

Hello. I recently made a post here about some noise from the pump of my new Arctic AIO. I contacted Arctic support, but I have not heard back from them (probably due to christmas and new years, which I understand). Since I dont know if it is air in the pump or just the pump in general that is making the noise, I have stopped using the pc just in case it will further damage it. When I turn on the pc and boot to BIOS, it stays at 30 degrees (celsius). So my question is: how bad is it if I use the pc, even tho the pump is making some noise? Do I risk doing more harm to the pump, or should it be fine until I get in contact with Arctic. Here is a link to a video of the noise. Its not as loud as some of the other "AIO noise" videos on youtube, but I can definitely hear it in comparison to the chassis fans/radiator fans

I recently bought the be quiet silent loop 2 280mm AIO and forgot to check if it fits in the top of my current case (and it doesn't). While the AIO would fit in the front, I wanna use this as an excuse to get a new case. I really like the Pure Base 500DX but I'm unsure whether the AIO fits in the top of that case or not and I don't actually know what to look for on that. Does it fit or not? If not what other cases could I buy or what do I have to look for?

whats really the difference? i see cfm is all over the place between the two (incorrect info maybe) For example a 240mm (deepcool) has 86 cfm ... wouldn't that still be better than my noctua u12s (55cfm iirc) or why should i choose a 360mm radiator instead? Also asking because fitting a 360mm will be very hard in my case (inwin 301), even 240mm might be cutting it close.

Hello there, I installed a Icewolf 2 AIO for my RTX 3090. After the installation i powered it to see if everything gets power and it did. Then i finished the case closed it up reconnected everything and turned it on. It posts and boots fine. I open B4B works fine then OW 2 to test how it handles some load. I go clean up the stuff from the installation and come back to my screens black but everything still has power fans running lights on. So i restart it maybe it BSOD or smth. Now the system doesnt post anymore. Cant get display cuz MB has no ports for it. If i had to guess the GPU doesn't work but why AFTER i put some load on it? I noticed that the powerbutton and peripherals stay "powered" even after flipping the PSU switch. Maybe thats has smth to do with it? Anybody an idea why that is? Specs: Motherboard: X570 Aorus Elite GPU: RTX 3090 KFA2 Gaming CPU: Ryzen 5950X PSU: 1200 W be quiet Dark Power Pro P12

So, my cpu is air cooled and i want to upgrade to a watercooling system. I want to buy an Corsair iCUE H100i ELITE. I already have 3 QL 120mm fans in the front and one in the back, but the cooling system comes with the ML series fans. I wanted to ask if it looks dumb if i have 2 different types of fans in the same build? Do you even notice it? I have made research on swapping the ML fans for the QL ones, but this woud be a major cooling power downgrade. Is that true? (i have a ryzen 7 3800x, i think its known to get pretty hot)

Budget (including currency): ~1700 usd Country: U.S.A Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: vr, f 360, r6s, school work Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9j7wfv CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor ($196.98 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Loop 360 Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B450M-PLUS II Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Adorama) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($117.99 @ Amazon) Storage: TEAMGROUP MS30 128 GB M.2-2280 SATA Solid State Drive ($13.99 @ Newegg) Storage: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($50.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus Noctua OC GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card ($739.00 @ B&H) Case: be quiet! Pure Base 600 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.90 @ B&H) Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM 750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.90 @ Amazon) Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WBAX210 802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax PCIe x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($46.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140 mm Fan ($20.81 @ Amazon) Monitor: Asus TUF Gaming VG24VQ1B 23.8" 1920 x 1080 165 Hz Curved Monitor ($149.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1766.52 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-12-23 23:04 EST-0500 (only a anti static strap, keyboard, and maybe a gpu brace are not included but have a separate 50 usd budget)