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Hello everyone! I want some other opinions on my current cooling situation. I have an Intel i7-12700K running at 5.1 GHz. I built this system in February of 2022 (16 months ago) and am cooling it with a MSI MAG Series CORELIQUID P240 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler. I used Fractal Design Venturi fans fans all the way around and the Fractal Design Meshify 3. I also used Noctua's NT-H1 thermal paste. I know the cooler's pump is the loudest part of my system, and it has made a annoying buzz since day one. I was recently looking to maybe replace the AIO with an NH-D15 from Noctua (which is about $109 USD) and I was wondering if it is a good use of my money. Will the Noctua fans be quieter than the AIO pump? Will the cooling performance be on par? I've got the room for it in my case and the funds to throw at it right now. I am going to upgrade the storage anyway and thought I may as well throw in a new cooler too if it would be quieter without sacrificing cooling. I also know it is over a year old, which I have heard AIOs don't last more than 2 years and I wouldn't want to risk a leak. Any advice is welcome! Thank you in advance!

hi part of my plan to build a new rig was aio. i really want to know if the Ls520 by deepcool support intel lga 1700 ty for answers

This issue already exists as a thread, but nothing in the realm of a fix has come to light. I find a lot of solutions being to unplug and plug the monitor wire from the CPU_FAN slot and to also move it to an AIO plug and vice versa. Of course, zero change. At this point, I have gone to the extend of using a completely different motherboard and the same AIO cooler, just one that has an hour of use rather than 2 years of use. So, I feel like my control variables are well enough...controlled so that I can omit the issue coming from the motherboard itself or just simply a bad cooler. Obviously neither were the problem. I have reinstalled iCUE to see if that was the issue. It wasn't. I checked BIOS settings for anything else, and nothing there as well. Both my motherboard BIOS and iCUE software are reading a stable, sub-50oC CPU temp, meaning that the pump is in fact WORKING as it should and that nothing is actually wrong. I did verify that those conditions were also present on the previous setup with my hardware. Question is, where do I go from here? I have already reached out directly to Corsair and I am waiting to hear back. The only other issue I can think that exists is a faulty Commander CORE accessory that controls all RGB fans/accessories and the pump itself. I have double and triple checked plug connections, as there are 2: USB and SATA power. All snug and firmly in their seats. However, I find that hard to believe, only because I do not see that failing like a fan or RAM module. I am not ruling it out, but I would like to find someone who could at least partially confirm this. I do have another Commander CORE to use at my disposal to swap and test. But, what if that is not the issue and it is something else? I recently shipped my PC from where I was living and I know for a fact that I had packed the box so that the case was snug and secure within. When I had opened my case to inspect everything, the Commander has not moved, nor was there any noticeable physical damage to that device in any way. Could it have been a short somehow from a lot of static electricity (we have all seen the video Linus did with ESD and most of the time components were affected indirectly). I will consider going to air cooling again. I have a cooler in mind that I would purchase to replace the faux faulty AIO. Although, I won't change if I do not have to.

I have a PC which had a apu 2400g, I ran it for 4 years and no issue came, recently I bought a 3060 which ofcourse bottlenecked my cpu but I have to take the risk, I planned to upgrade the cpu too. Now the problem came with thermal temps, I noticed that my cpu was getting too hot after pairing with 3060, like 50-65 idle and 100 crossed (103 max I saw) with cinebench, now I know cinebench runs the cpu 100% but that was concering. I had an ambient temp of 40°C (I live in India) so I decided to upragde my cooler, I upgraded it to Coolermaster ML240 AIO cooler, after it had installed the idle was still somewhere 40-55 but I considered it normal as the ambient was also close to 39-40, and cinebench it was going 75-80, and games was 50-60. But after enabling game oc mode of my MSI B450 gaming plus and x-amp profile 1, It rose to 50-60 idle and 55-75 gaming, cinebench it came with 85 max. Should I be concerned or not. Please its been eating up since I saw the temps of gaming. Much love Kaushal

Currently i'm planning my build in a FD North case and i'm wondering if i get the mesh side panel and put the GPU vertically facing the mesh panel will it lead to better cooling of the GPU? As far as i understand usually the best practice is to have a solid side panel in order to not disrupt the airflow inside the case and have better overall cooling, but in my case the card would draw fresh air from the side right? And just as a general opinion what would be the optimal fan config for this case? Top fans intake or exhaust? I have 360 AIO infront, 2x 140mm fans at the top, 1x 120mm fan at the back.

Hi everybody! Currently I am the proud owner of a full tower Fractal Torrent, in which my significantly older hardware resides, overdue for an update very soon. Pretty much every new part is decided, except for the cooling solution. The CPU will be a 7950X3D. All images included are from the Torrent Manual. The three solutions I'm currently thinking of doing: Option #1: Fractal Design Lumen S28, front mounted, in push-pull configuration In this solution, the default configuration of the fans (2x180mm at the front, 3x140mm on the bottom) would be flipped. The AIO would be mounted on two of the three front mounted 140mm fans (as push fans), and the third would just be pulling in air, business as usual. I thought about going with a 360 AIO as pictured underneath (w/o exhaust fan, although I can always get a single fan for that) like in the manual, but I have seen some images with 120mm fans in the front, and I found that they look much too narrow for my tastes. Pros: (Subjective) Aesthetically, I find this solution by far the most pleasing because of the minimalist looks of the Lumen's heatsink shroud. If I haven't missed anything, there would be no fitment issues whatsoever with this config. Cons: According to this forum's CPU cooler performance list, the Lumen S28 is a Tier 3 cooler, which might not be powerful enough to cool a 7950X3D - even with push-pull configuration, as afaik there is no significant boost to performance for an AIO in a push-pull config. (Please correct me if I'm wrong about this, the more I read on this, the less clear the answer is, some say much better, some even say worse) Option #2: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420, front mounted, partial push-pull configuration Very similarly to option #1, the default fan config would flip, and the AIO would have three 140mm push fans, and two additional pull fans, with the remaining fan used as an exhaust fan. Because the two 180mm fans are massive, there would only be two pull fans on the inside of the radiator, and the tubes would be on the top. Afaik the pump in the Arctic Liquid Freezer series is in the heatsink itself, so having the tubes on the top wouldn't be as bad, but flipping it over with the tubes on the bottom (which I have gathered is the most optimal) is just not possible without removing the 180mm fans, in which case I might as well have bought a different case altogether. There was a very similar thread some time ago, but the solutions discussed are either too jank for my tastes, or require modding the case, which I don't want. Pros: According to this forum's CPU cooler performance list and various other sources that I checked, the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420 is a Tier 1 cooler, so very good chances of adequately cooling the CPU. If there are only two pull fans (top-middle, as picture above with the crossed out fan being used as an exhaust fan), in theory there shouldn't be any fitment issues with the 180mm on the bottom. Cons: Tubes would only fit if on the top, which can (afaik) hurt the longevity of the AIO. (Subjective) The shroud on the heatsink of the Liquid Freezer series is objectively very good, but imo quite hideous. Option #3: Let water cooling be damned, and go with the Noctua NH-D15 Pros: Although technically also a Tier 3 in this forum's CPU cooler performance list, because the Torrent was first and foremost designed as an air-cooler oriented case, from what I've been able to gather, a good air cooler in this case can match the performance of even a 360 AIO. Much less fuss. Cons: Probably louder under heavy load. Because of clearance, I would possibly need to reevaluate my choice of RAM (G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo). (Subjective) Aesthetically speaking, I would prefer it over the Arctic, but significantly lower than the Lumen. I couldn't find a better way to explain my plans, I apologize if it was hard to understand. I came up with these options because I want to preserve the case fans, as in a moment of vanity, I shelled out for the RGB version of the case, a function which ironically I haven't been able to use, because my old motherboard doesn't have an ARGB header... I would very much welcome general criticism and opinions, even further recommended options, but my specific questions would be these: Would option #1 provide adequate cooling for a 7950X3D? I don't want to open a local renderfarm, but there are some heavier tasks I plan on doing. Is the orientation of the AIO in option #2 a serious risk for longevity, or is it all right, as long as the pump isn't in the tallest spot? The Fractal Lumen lineup has the pump in the radiator itself, does the orientation of the tubes matter in that case? Thank you all very much in advance for all the feedback!

Country: UK Ive settled on the Fractal Pop Mini Silent (temps wont be the best, but im not going to be running full load for extended periods - i used for game dev and light gaming)...however the only thing im concerned about is whether the unusually thick Frozen Arctic II 240mm will fit side mounted next to the 4080. What do people think? Parts list here: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/tYJNRv

Hello! Just built this PC as it follows ryzen 9 7900x asus proart x670e creator wifi psu: corsair x850m 80+ platinum I have this weir sound, please see video, coming from the pump. Seems electrical. I’m not sure. Maybe bubbles and it’s normal. Also, the PC turns on just by switching the PSU on without the case switch. I tried without the headerd (power-sw / reset-sw) on and it turns on as well. Can be the motherboard? The Psu? Please help! Thank you Nico 53E1DF1A-1237-4D89-82DB-FC7C6381E024.mov

Hello Was just going through my system trying to optimise cooling and performance and I noticed that the radiator fans on the AIO don't go above 1300RPM at all. I have a custom fan curve set up in my BIOS, in which above 75C CPU temp the CPU fan (and the other fans that are adjustible in the BIOS) are 100% power. But when I run a stress test, the CPU temp skyrockets up to around 83C very fast but the fans don't really ramp up that much (I know the screenshots show else, I will explain later). I looked it up, the fans are rated at 1800RPM max (+/- 300 according to NZXT) so even with the very low end of the spectrum 1300RPM is out of the range at full power. The temp doesn't exceed 85C but I'm assuming thats thermal throttling rather than cooling being efficient as thats the temp limit set in the BIOS. The numbers are according to CPUID HWMonitor. The pump (which can be controlled through NZXT CAM) ramps up as it should according to the curve, and HWmonitor detects this too as well as CAM saying it does. I attached a screenshot of HWMonitor when it's idle and under full load. I'm not sure but I think AUXFANIN2 (and chassis #4 as it is always displaying the same values) is the pump speed as it mostly matches with what CAM is saying for pump speed, and according to NZXT the pump does go up to 2800rpm. CPUFANIN and CPU I imagine would be the radiator fans? In NZXT CAM I have the three case fans which I can control and have tested, if put at 100% run at over 1600RPM according to CAM. These fans are the exact same as the ones that came with the AIO Some more info if it helps: Self built PC, isn't too old. About 2yrs old, but not used for a large amount of that due to personal issues. Yes, I remembered thermal paste. -CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X -Motherboard: ROG Strix X570-F -Have three case fans at the front, alongside the two on the AIO, all 140mm and 4 pin connectors. -I'm using a NZXT fan hub for the RGB of the AIO fans and the power and RGB of the case fans. (I think. Honestly, not 100% sure I built it years ago and theres too many cables to follow along. But if you think this could be the issue I can open up the case and have a closer look. Regarding the screenshots, I'm not sure why the one under load levelled out at such low temps. Earlier when I did it the temps were over 80C. Both times the CPU was under 100% load, although the one I just did for the screenshot the cores ran at 4.6GHz as opposed to hitting the full 4.8GHz boost clock earlier. Not sure why. Regardless, the fans were still not running near the rate they should for those temps if they were running properly based on the BIOS curve I'm really not fussed about noise under heavy load, mostly care about keeping temps down to avoid as much throttling as possible. Thank you so much for reading and taking the time to try help, I know it's a small thing but my perfectionism can't let it go. If there is any more info that would help, please ask away. Beni For the screenshots the left value is current, middle is minimum and right is maximum. Idle: Under load:

Planning on switching to the Torrent Nano case as my Manta's 2 slot max GPU depth is too small, severely limiting my options for a GPU upgrade as many reuse the same 2.5 cooler model designs. I think the 3 slot option on new mITX cases should go a long way in aleviating this struggle. I want to make this transition as cheap as possible, meaning to not spend on things outside of necesity or actively saving me money. That means I have to make my current 280mm AIO fit the case. Question is, how? I've read comments saying that a 280mm AIO only fits in one position, front intake as a pull configuration. Is that true? How does it fit? Does anyone have pictures of a 280mm AIO fitting or were people merely talking of custom loops where an induvidual radiator can fit up front in that configuration. If it makes any difference, I have the X62 Rev 2 AIO. How much lenght do we lose and what's the next max card lenght? Does adding fans at the bottom for better GPU airflow eat into max GPU thickness? Help would be grealy appreciated. Really want to have this case as Fractal and don't want to downgrade to the meshify nano, no hate to the meshify tho, it is an alternative just not my 1st choice.

The view from these images are not to scale but just for reference. It is a top view of the NR200P case if the radiator was side mounted. I don't know much about how you should do AIO stuff but here are my ideas. Please help me pick which is best.

Hi, I hope this is the correct topic. This is the sound my pump makes when I turn my pc on. It doesn’t do it every time sometimes it’s quieter. It’s really worrying me though as people are saying the pump is broke. I’ve ran cinebench and my temps are 60C and no higher. I’ve played games and it runs very stable. That noise goes after 2 seconds and then my AIO is pretty much silent. Is there a way to fix this or if not is my pc safe? IMG_3915.mov

Before I elaborate further and continue this discussion, I'm going to start at step 1 - For what reason would Pins 1 and 4 be shorted from the factory on the wire harness for my Asetek AIO liquid cooling pump in my Hewlett Packard desktop computer? This particular Asetek pump only utilizes 3 wires between the motherboard and pump, however pins 1 and 4 are shorted together with a small jumper wire at the plug. What would the purpose of doing this serve?

So i am building a system that will be used for editing, CAD, rendering and a bit of gaming. At first i wanted to do a custom loop, but then when i calculated how much it will cost i opted for AIO. The stuff i see is that people undervolt the 13900K and then the temps become more manageable by the average cooler so i guess i'll do that too. I was going to get the Lian-li Galahad, but if the performance will be the same as the Arctic Freezer II why not save some money since i don't care that much about rgb lights. Now i'm asking is it worth it getting bigger e-atx case just to fit the 420mm version of the AIO? Ofcourse more thermal mass, more time to heat it up and it will run quieter, but do you guys think the 420mm radiator is that much superior to the 360mm? For the bigger case if it's 420mm i'm thinking Lian-Li LANCOOL III or something from FD.

Hey all! Please do not judge but this is my first post and would love some help with a issue I'm currently having. I just built my first computer late February. It's an I9 9900k cooled by a Be Quiet! 280mm rad with NZZT pos pressure fans on a Z390m MSI mobo. So far it has been great. I occasionally run a 5.0 all core and its perfect, NO PROBLEMS what so ever. This machine usually runs around 29-33c (OC'd, lower at factory bios) at idle and in the 60s while playing CSGO (yes I know but its the only game I can still enjoy playing occasionally LOL). I had just moved homes today and had set up my computer and was worried when I saw my CPU idling around 55-65c. Was strange but thought that the thermal paste could have shaken loose? or something so I repasted the CPU and went through multiple layout changes only to find that my CPU will not drop below 45c. Now yes, you may be thinking, Hmm its definitely the change in ambient air temperature right? I wish. The room it is setup in is easily 10c cooler than the previous room it lived in. With the window open in here (Outside is 12c degrees, about 15-20c in room) it is still idling around 50c literally as I am writing this. I am very confused and mad. Anyone could think of why this is and how I could fix it? the AIO is brand new so I doubt the pump is already going out. Also the GPU (MSI 1660Ti) is idling at 32c this whole time. ambient temp is fine, room temp is fine, air flow is fine, case temp is fine, brand new pump, perfect 9900k that has not given me a single issue in the 2 months I have had it. Any help is much appreciated thank you very much!

I have been using ryzen 5 3600 for years now. 4 months ago I upgraded from an air cooler to a budget aio namely deepcool castle v2 rgb. The temps had been okay till last 2 months I have been getting around 32 to 36 in idle. But recently I have been getting around 52 to 60 in idle. My room temperature is around 32 degree celsius and idk what caused it all of a sudden. I still have the warranty of my cooler. Should I send it for rma and warranty.

Hey Fellas, Since i did a BIOS update for my Ryzen 7 7700X i need multiple restarts for my AIO MSI Coreliquid 240R V2 to cool my CPU. When im starting my PC Temps just begin to rise with fans spinning on 100% but with no affect. After some restarts it just works and the CPU wont exceed 50 Degrees and fans spinning normal. I already checked if everything is plugged in properly and i checked BIOS if somethings not showing up. Im out of Ideas. Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX with Bios Version F6B

My System build is 2 years old and I have started facing the problem of instant temperature raise in seconds from around 37*C upto 75-80*C while using FL studio DAW. CPU frequency also keeps fluctuating from 800MHz to around 5098 MHz without overclocking. I have tried resetting the bios to default and shuffled between balanced performance and high performance mode, not of much help. I have tried Cinebench R23 test for couple of seconds and temperature went upto 100*C. What could be the reason for these problem I am facing? Is it because water coolant might have evaporated from the AIO? Please help me sort it ! Thank you !! My System configuration : Intel i9 10th gen 10900k unlocked CPU Asus TUF Gaming Z590 plus WiFi motherboard Samsung EVO Plus NVMe 1tb Samsung 1TB SSD Toshiba 4tb HHD GSkill Trident Z Neo 32gb 3600MHz Ram Lian Li Galahad AIO 240 CPU water cooler Lian Li ST120 RGB Fans Cooler Master MWE 750v2 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply Lian Li 011 dynamic case. Windows 10 pro os

My System build is 2 years old and I have started facing the problem of instant temperature raise in seconds from around 37*C upto 75-80*C while using FL studio DAW. CPU frequency also keeps fluctuating from 800MHz to around 5098 MHz without overclocking. I have tried resetting the bios to default and shuffled between balanced performance and high performance mode, not of much help. What could be the reason for these problem I am facing? Is it because water coolant might have evaporated from the AIO? Please help me sort it ! Thank you !! My System configuration : Intel i9 10th gen 10900k unlocked CPU Asus TUF Gaming Z590 plus WiFi motherboard Samsung EVO Plus NVMe 1tb Samsung 1TB SSD Toshiba 4tb HHD GSkill Trident Z Neo 32gb 3600MHz Ram Lian Li Galahad AIO 240 CPU water cooler Lian Li ST120 RGB Fans Cooler Master MWE 750v2 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply Lian Li 011 dynamic case. Windows 10 pro os

I had the i7 10700k for less than two years now, never opened the PC case or meddled with any of the hardware since I've built it two years ago (with all new hardware) and it always ran well with super low and stable temps 45-65 while gaming and never topping over 65. the cooler used was the MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R. last month I experienced lots of PC freezes so I decided to check the temps and they were soaring over 95 when opening up any AAA game such as Uncharted, Hogwarts Legacy, RDR2, etc... and kept going up until the PC just gives up and freezes. desktop is 30-40 which is still high compared to what I was getting when first getting the PC. changed the CPU cooler to a new one since everyone told me it was the Pump failing. today I installed a DeepCool LT720 which is supposed to be a really good AIO, all cables are plugged in and all is in check, thermal paste, airflow, fan configuration... and I'm almost getting the exact same problem, it's as if the Pump was non-reactive to changing CPU Load, the fans go up in speed but so do the temps, and extremely fast at doing so. IDK if this is related to the problem in some way but the Motherboard I'm using is a (Gigabyte Z490 VISION G) If anyone could steer me in the right direction to deal with this problem it'd be much appreciated, I'm very worried about this.

Looking to get this CPU and cooling combo, does anyone have this combo and how is the performance? I was also considering going for an AIO, if anyone knows any good AIO that would keep this CPU cool could you recommend a few? Thank you.

My biggest fear with an AIO is that the punmp will fail and I won't know it till the CPU starts to thermal throttle heavily. By the are the mounting backets for the intel 1700 socket the same or does each cooler have it own type?

Budget (including currency): £1500-200 Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, Small amounts of rendering, coding and video producing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): i7 12700KF, 3060 12gb, 750w PSU Hi! Apologies for needing to ask this question as I can't find a very good explanation to my situation. I'm on the final stages of building my PC but I'm having a bit of trouble. I can't see whether I want Air Cooling or an AIO, AIOs scare me because they seem complicated and I want nothing less than water all in my PC, I do not know reliability or if I'll have to perform maintenance on them. Air cooling seems simple but I cant find a good affordable two fan LG1700 44m ram clearance cooler. Some suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks!

I understand that this cpu is supposed to run hot and I would like to minimize this. I will be having this aio outside of the case (hyte y60). Just wanting a general range of temperatures to be expected and if there any better coolers (preferably in white to match the rest of the build)