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So my friend build a PC for doing Astro photography and he has a ryzen 9 5950X. When the CPU is at idle the processor sits around 45 - 70 C and fluctuates a good bit. I’m not used to this and don’t think this is normal operation. He has a NZXT AIO with a large rad and two 240mm fans. This setup should idle around 35 if my instincts are correct. What could be the issue here?
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I just got an NZXT Kraken 360mm White RGB AIO and I have it installed on a Ryzen 7 5700x. I am using HWiNFO for temps and also have "Fan Xpert 4" installed through Asus's AI Suite and NZXT CAM installed. My CPU Temps are between 40-60c when Idle while NZXT CAM is reporting that the liquid is 31c. I don't know if I need to take the Cooler back off and apply some of my own thermal paste (I used what was pre-installed on the cooler) I have the Header that comes off the AIO plugged into the CPU_FAN header on my Asus Prime B550-Plus Motherboard with the fan speed set to 100% (I can plug it into the AIO_PUMP header but it looks better and is easier to use the CPU_FAN header). Any Help or suggestions are Welcome, Thanks! IMG20231225225720.jpg
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I'm looking to build an ITX computer but by existing Artic II 240 is 67mm thick and will not fit the 55mm space available. Either: 1) Keep AIO and buy slim noctua fans. (Thick rad, slim fans) 2) Buy replacement 55mm AIO, likely Lian Li 240. (Std rad, std fan) I'm leaning towards buying a new AIO (~$100). I'm typically more time constrained than budget constrainted. Noctua fans x2 ($40-45), plus (~$30 air cooler) so i can sell old tower as functional. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/ServerSherpa/saved/gGpqdC Case Lian Li A4 H2O Thanks, opinions welcome.
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Hey, so I found a Thermaltake bigwater 780 for approximately 30$ US and I'm thinking about buying it since it is the cheapest option that will get me a pump reservoir and radiator combo with a CPU cooler, but I've read that it mixes metals, and I know that's one of the worst things you can do I'm a watercooling loop but the seller includes EK cryofuel with it which is supposed to stop/prevent corrosion as I've read but I didn't really understand what kind of corrosion it is supposed to prevent since a bunch of places shittalk it because it leaves residue and in some cases corrosion. So tell it to me in the most straightforward way possible, -is EK cryofuel better than distilled water? -how bad of a deal is this? -How likely is it that I'm going to regret buying it? -any other alternatives to cryofuel? -perhaps if there is a way to change the radiator in the bigwater to a copper one? I'm not going to be daily driving this thing most likely, it's just for fun and because I already have a mobo with cooling brackets and I dont yet have a pump or a radiator. Thanks in advance
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I have a Rysen 5800X being cooled by a Corsair H115i RGB PRO XT, 280mm AIO radiator. If I recall correctly, the AIO radiator came bundled with the 5800X when I bought it. I have precision boost overdrive on and if I recall correctly, I've got it slightly overvolted. When I have Folding@home running (CPU only, no GPU), it goes up to 92°C and stays there, drawing around 105 W. With this cooler, is this type of temperature expected at this power draw, or might I have set something up incorrectly (e.g. bad thermal paste application, or incorrect pressure between the CPU and cooler, or have fans blowing in the wrong way)? I tried looking up the cooling capacity of the H115i Pro XT 280mm, but I couldn't find a simple "it's good for up to X watts" answer. For additional context: When I start/stop intensive CPU activity, be it Folding@home or an AIDA64 stress test, the CPU temps rocket up / drop down to normal within a matter of seconds. I don't know the significance of this fact, though, nor do I know whether it's expected. Here's a screenshot of HWMonitor while Folding@home is running:
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Hey guys. I replaced my Lian Li Galahad Trinity AIO with a replacement AIO that’s the exact same, because it made a swish/bubble noise every time I turned on my pc. However the one I replaced it with is doing the same thing but louder. If I leave my computer off for like 8+ hours, I hear the air bubbles when it turns on. It doesn’t occur when the pc restarts or turns off for like an hour. What do I do? My pump running 80% speed and I’ve tilted my case over and over…. It’s super odd that multiple units do the same thing. The sound goes away after a few seconds and then I hear the pop or little tiny bubbles getting pushed out of the pump for the next 20 seconds….. it makes no sense. I asked a few people, and one said to move the tubes on the AIO block itself to the top. So like if i rotated my pump 90 degrees... I can try and do that, but i might make a mess lol. I don't know if that will fix it or not... I also set my pump speed lower than normal, around 2700 instead of the 2800-2900 the Lian Li Trinity 2 AIO allows. The picture below is my computer, and the video below is the video of the OLD pump. You can hear the noise, but on the new one it's a whole lot louder than that. I probably should've stayed with my old pump... video1.mp4
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I have caved and bought a aio called gamemax 240mm my motherboard is b450m tuf gaming motherboard I’m worried about the compatibility will this work I’m a complete beginner with aio I normally use stock coolers I’m so sorry if I put this in wrong place too second time on this site please can someone put my mind at easy if this is compatible or if I just wasted £60 pounds on a aio that not compatible
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I just ordered an NZXT H6 (Non-RGB because I don't want to deal with their fans). That being said, I want ARGB fans for my case. The case has 3x 120mm on the front, 3x 120mm on top, 1x 120mm on the back, and 2x 140mm on bottom. I have a Ryzen 7 5700x, currently a Asus Prime B550-Plus Motherboard (Likely upgrading to Asus Prime X570-PRO for overclocking headroom and it looks better). I will be getting myself an Asus ROG Strix LC II 360mm AIO for Christmas and I want to have the same (or very similar) fans throughout the case. White, good looking, A-RGB fans that won't murder my wallet are the goal. Ideally if they look similar or are the same as the ones on the AIO, I can save some money. **(I can also 3D Print brackets to adapt the 140mm fan holes on the bottom to 120mm if need be. I am going for a all white build and plan to paint my EVGA 3070ti XC3 Graphics Card Backplate and Shroud. [Looks like this] (Yes, I know it will void the warranty...etc,etc.) [Likely Paint my RAM white too] I primarily want fan advice but overall advice on my ideas is welcome as well. Thanks!
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Hello! I've been dealing with a frustrating issue involving my AIO fans creating a jackhammer-like noise specifically at 2122 RPM. Despite my efforts to address the problem, I haven't found a solution yet. [ICUE H100i Elite CAPELIX XT] Here's what I've tried: 1. Initially, I thought the screws might be too tight, so I loosened them a bit, but that didn't help. 2. I attempted to tweak the fan curves in ICUE, but it's not practical because the RPMs won't just skip over 2122, making it challenging to find a solution through software adjustments. 3. I also checked for any physical obstructions, even though it seems odd that the noise only occurs at 2122 RPM. I suspect there might be a specific frequency produced by the fans at 2122 RPM, causing resonance in the computer and creating an annoying vibration. Any advice or insights on how to address this issue would be greatly appreciated! P.S. Disregard the dust on the screen; it's only visible to the camera. Rest assured, I'll clean it before it poses any inconvenience to my eyes. XD 20231212_010016.mp4 -
This is the link to my current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/BodaciousYT/saved/BPs6Bm So, I currently have a 7800xt and a 7800x3d in my system and its being cooled by 3 NZXT case fans running as an Intake, An NZXT Kraken 360 AIO as an outtake (Exhaust), and an additional 120mm NZXT Core fan as a rear outtake (exhaust). I use my PC for gaming but also for watching movies, doing schoolwork, as well as other personal tasks like finances. I recently noticed that the GPU fans weren't spinning but I just assumed that it had a Zero RPM Mode it was just strange to me because my previous GPU's in other systems didn't. My idle temps rest at around 49°C on the GPU and 52° C. I have Auto OC enable on ryzen master and XMP 1 on my ram but other than that I haven't manually changed any fan or clock speeds. I don't really have a reason to overclock my gpu because it handles the most intensive game I play MW2 without any issues with max temps being around 79-82°C. My CPU has weird temp spikes once it's load is around 30% usage (when running something like a driver update) where the temp rises to about 74°C and when I run a stress test it goes to the max temp allowed in ryzen master which is 89°C but it doesn't seem to throttle. So my questions are: Are my idle temps good considering the cooling setup? Is it bad for my system to have 3 intake, 4 outtake because I know it's technically a negative pressure system? If I do add 2 more fans at the bottom to fill the case should they be intake or outtake? Are my CPU temps rising fast under not even 50% load an issue? Considering that I do more idle tasks that fall near the Zero RPM threshold for my GPU wouldn't the fact that the gpu has to spin up at lower rpm's every few minutes counterproductive to the goal of avoiding dust buildup and preserving the bearings in contrast to running the fans at a set speed when idle? I've seen some people recommend running all the Case/AIO fans at max speed, would that actually be beneficial? Finally if I do have to do anything in regard to modifying the fan curve and speed for the case/aio/gpu is there any software that can do it for me automatically without having to worry about manual input because the gigabyte aorus bios sucks and I don't think it even has fan controls? I know this was really long, and I don't expect every question to get answered but if you can answer any of these it would be greatly appreciated. -
Budget (including currency): N/A Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Max settings Streaming and Gaming. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): 1. I am upgrading from a x62 Kraken 240mm AIO. 2. I am planning to buy it within the next few hours. 3. 1080p streams and at 60fps. Monitor :1080p 240hz. I am planning to upgrade my coolers because when running my stream at max settings. The stream starts frame skipping and when I check the stats in MSI afterburner it shows that my CPu Usage is below 50% But the temp is around 80 to 83. Which is consider above the Ryzen Master recommended temp for it. I am guessing its because of thermal throttling? Any advise would do thank you so much. I am not a professional and seek your advise.
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I'm encountering a problem with my Thermaltake TH360 V2 Ultra AIO liquid cooler's LCD screen. the Thermaltake RGB app consistently reports "Controller not connected," preventing me from customizing the display. I've made sure everything is in properly, I updated the software and attempted various troubleshooting steps, but the issue persists. There is a USB cable that connects to the cpu coolers lcd there was 2 usbs to connected but only 1 cable could be connected to the CPU coolers lcd and I'm not sure what to do with the other USB side and ive connected the USB to the motherboard, I'm encountering a problem with my Thermaltake TH360 V2 Ultra AIO liquid cooler's LCD screen. the Thermaltake RGB app consistently reports "Controller not connected," preventing me from customizing the display. I've made sure everything is in properly, I updated the software and attempted various troubleshooting steps, but the issue persists. There is a USB cable that connects to the CPU cooler lcd there was 2 usbs to connected but only 1 cable could be connected to the CPU LCD, and I'm not sure what to do with the other USB side I've connected the USB to the motherboard Note: i am using my own fans and not the Thermaltake ones im using lian li sl120 LCD screen detection issues with this cooler, I would greatly appreciate your help. (windows 10)
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Im trying to build a new pc and with these atrocious 4090 prices and near volcanic heat of the i9 14900k im trying to save money and get the best aio. Im looking at the Corsair iCUE H170i Elite LCD XT. It's like $310 USD on corsair but amazon has a like new for $200. Should I get it, will it be fine or should I just sell out the extra $100?
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I used my Corsair H60 AIO for more than 8 years in different Systems. Recently the pump stopped while in use and tripped the temp limit on my CPU. While i was able to unclogg it by tapping on it I took it as a sign to finally upgrade. Later i took the AIO apart and got some interesting pictures of what happens with an AIO after such a long time that i wanted to share. (Dear God i didnt upgrade a second too early) First of all the coolant i drained Lots of piece in there, probably some kind of corrosion/abrasion, not good On top of the copper heat spreader was this rubber part (from the inside). Normally there is a gap in the middle of this part where the pump pushes the coolant trough, to get to the finns. Its completly clogged with sludge. Probably made the pump struggle a lot. Now to the main part, the copper plate. How? At this point i was realy suprised that this AIO worked at all. All the channels and the middle where the pump pushes coolant trough are completly stuck with sludge. I guess AIO arent meant to be used that long? I could have kept using it by sometimes tapping on the cover, but taking it apart made me glad i upgraded. this isnt to rip on corsair, just thought this was interesting and wanted to share.
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the kraken elite 280 Is on sale for $200 when it's usually $250 on multiplr websites like amazon, newegg etc. do you think this is the lowest a kraken elite will get for a while? should I buy now or wait for a 360mm to go on sale. I know there are similar options for cheaper but I love the screen.
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hey, so im asking as a last resort cause i cant figure it out for the life of me. i built my pc around july and have been having a weird issue the last couple days where my AIO isnt keeping a stable temp even just sitting with afterburner on where its sitting at 60c to 64C on the low end but high spikes all the way into the 80's. i can feel the water going through the lines and everything its just a weird thing i feel
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So I just moved to a new house and I booted up and my pc is making like a click noise. In the video you’ll hear it. Fairly new build. Is it the aio pump kicking in and off and about to die? Ryzen 7900x Corsair 360 mm lcd aio Asrock phantom 7900 XTX Asrock x670 motherboard IMG_1673.mov
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Hey guys. I've had my new build for 2 months now and the AIO has been noticeably noisy, especially since it's sitting right next to me on the desk. The pump produces a very high pitch sound constantly. The issue is somehow more audible at idle state when I'm just browsing internet, watching youtube videos etc and disappears almost completely when in game. Here's a short video with all case fans disabled (high pitch sound is very noticeable at around 0:30) : Disclaimer : I know the AIO should be mounted with tubes coming out from the bottom but I couldn't because of GPU length. The Arctic documentation shows (and several youtube videos from gamers nexus/jayztwocents etc) that tubes coming out from the top is fine if the pump is below the highest point in the loop, which is the case here. I've contacted Arctic support and they can't really identify the issue so they told me to ask for a replacement unit, but what's keeping the next one from behaving exactly the same ? This high pitch noise is what's really driving me nuts since it's piercing through my headphones. So.. is this normal behavior for an AIO pump ? Let me know, thanks.
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I really like the look of the z63 but I think the liquid freezer has better performance, is it a big difference, or small enough that I can go for looks. for a 13900k btw
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Recently upgraded to a 3080Ti which forced my radiator for my AIO cooler to be mounted to the top of my case (was on the side before). When playing games that load the GPU, the radiator now gets heated up by the hot GPU air. This causes coolant temp to reach 60+C after 30-45 minutes, even with very low CPU load (10% or so). Two 120mm fans pull in fresh air from the front, two 120mm radiator fans on the top act as exhaust. I know the obvious solutions are to get a new case or new CPU cooler, but is there any other step I could take to alleviate the issue without jumping the gun on new parts? Help appreciated
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Hey there, amazing tech community! So my Lumen S36 AIO just went kaput ;( But… I'm thrilled to share that I've just ordered the Galahad II Trinity AIO w/ Lian Li SL 120 Infinity Unifans to level up my PC cooling game. Currently, I have the AL120 V2 fans as simple case fans – two for intake and one for exhaust. Now, my question is: Is it possible to hook up the SL 120 Infinity Unifans and AL 120 V2 fans to the same Lian Li fan controller or hub? I know another controller will come with my AIO but I’d like to use one Controller IF possible. I'm aiming to create an efficient and cohesive cooling system that's not only visually appealing but also practical. Your insights and expertise would be incredibly appreciated! Let's explore the possibilities together and ensure my setup runs as smoothly as possible while embracing our love for all things tech and e-girl vibes! Thank you, fantastic community, for your continuous support and invaluable guidance. I can't wait to hear your suggestions and experiences. Let's dive into this tech adventure together! Nyaa~! -
Hey everyone! I have some noise issues with DeepCool LS720 WH fans. I know that they're loud in general, but I keep hearing really annoying, irregular buzzy noises peaking at around 850RPM, and whistling/whining sound being the loudest at around 1450RPM. Well, weird symphony in general. Every of 3 fans emits this kind of noises at some point. I contacted DeepCool support and they sent me 3 new fans, but the story was the same with the new ones. The noise sounds really similarly to this, but sometimes is very loud (can even hear it from another room when the load is like 40%): https://youtu.be/i3Qs07Qgdjw?feature=shared Has anyone of you experienced something similar? Obviously I adjusted the fans curve to avoid the most noisy RPM ranges, but it's still annoying at some point and disappointing for this product to hear these noises. I thought of buying other fans for this cooler, what do you think about Corsair AF120 Elite (white RGB version to match the aesthetics)? I heard that they are really high-quality and quiet fans for radiators, and they don't seem to be extremely expensive.
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right now in my region the price of those 240mm aio is the same which one should i get for I5 13600k?
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I've just recently moved countries, and for that reason I had to take down my PC. During the process, I had noticed some cracks on the copper surface. [Corsair H100i RGB Platium SE] These cracks seem to appear around here and there, and I know its normal and sometimes harmless. However, I have never seen cracks this extensive around the screws. Should I be concerned about the performance and safety of my cooler, or is it safe to continue using it? Any suggestions on how to address this issue would be greatly appreciated. Pictures bellow, Thanks.
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I recently built a new computer since it had been 7 years since my last build. I decided to go with an AIO liquid cooler this time and bought the Cooler Master MasterLiquid 360L which seemed a reasonable price. After a couple of days of using it, I noticed it started making a humming noise. The humming went away after a bit so I assumed it was just air stuck in the pump. However, the humming then returned and didn't go away regardless of how I tilt the computer to try and get air out of the pump block. Here is a video of the pump noise with the fans off: Note that the radiator has to be mounted on the front with pipes coming from the top because the case doesn't allow any other configuration (my bad for not doing enough research beforehand). This noise is noticeable even with headphones on, and it's slightly annoying. I can reduce the pump RPM through BIOS which reduces noise a little but I'd rather eliminate the noise entirely. Is this expected for a pump or is there some issue? Other specs for reference: Intel Core i7-13700K CPU Deepcool Matrexx 50 case MSI Pro Z790-P WiFi motherboard Corsair RM750x PSU 2x Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5 DIMMs EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC GPU
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