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Hi Everyone, I've been trying to print ABS with my Ender 3 s1 Pro, and I'm having a lot of issues. The print is perfect for about the first few layers, I have no issues with bed adhesion and my bed print does not warp upwards, however as soon as I print over 1cm or have supports, I get issues. The supports themselves print fine, but the actual part that gets printed on top of the supports don't sticks and start warping upward very badly. I have a makeshift enclose for the printer and this helps a little, but I still have the issue. Does anyone know, if there's something I'm missing or can try? ABS Spec 210c - 240c (not damp) Cura Default settings a no go, and I've also played a lot with advanced settings with no luck so far. Print temps tried 215c - 235c Bed temp 110c Speed 40mm/s Cooling fan off Pics 1. MINI All In One 3D printer test scaled down 50%, and warps when printing vertically (this is not from the overhang as it starts messing up before it overhangs) 2. Custom part I'm trying to make, but it warps off the supports Thanks

Hello! New to pc parts and stuff so my terminology might be somewhat off. I recently picked up this pc https://www.newegg.ca/abs-ali597/p/N82E16883360232?Item=N82E16883360232 Here are the specs to the build that are necessary to the issue Motherboard: Gigabyte B560 DS3H AC Y-1 Fans: Deepcool cf120 Case: Deepcool MATREXX 50 My issue: The rgb on the cf120 fans at the moment are only able to controlled by the button on the top of the case rather than the rgb software on the computer. Goal: From what I've gathered online and talking to others is that I need to connect the controller to the argb port on the motherboard which is the D_LED1 port, which has the thee prongs with one space between them. I am unable to find the cord to plug into the argb port on the motherboard to fix the issue. I will link a youtube video that has instructions on how to fix this exact issue however my motherboard and case/setup are slightly different than his and I am unable to find the cord that matches his: Here are some photos that show my setup: The cord running from the rgb fans (unnamed(1)) runs to the piece in the 2 and 3 unnamed photos and runs up to the hub at the top of the back of the pc (unnamed pic). Let me know if there is any other information you need.

Hi, i've been using my G915 TKL for a while now and I really enjoy it. However, the keycaps are ABS which facilitates some greasiness over time. I clean the keyboard every 1-2 weeks to prevent it. Any owner that knows if there are PBT replacement keycaps for the G915 for sale anywhere? I also have a nordic layout which might be tricky to find.

Ok so really needing help on this one. The school I teach computers at just ordered 5 prebuilt computers from ABS (Newegg company) so I can also teach video production this summer and next school year as the computers we had before this were from 2011. They are all the same 3600, GTX 1660 Super, 16GB Ram. The computers arrived an hour before I leave for the day so I got them upstairs to my classroom and opened one to get it setup and established on our network. I unpack everything, check for loose cables, ensure cards and sticks are all in nice and snug, and turn it on. The fans light up and spin and no display. I press the power button and the machine will not turn off. The light just blinks. so I flick the PSU switch to power everything down and check again. Everything is good. Turn it back on and still nothing. I pull another computer out to check that one and see if I just so happened to open the unlucky one. Do all the same checks and hook it up to a known good monitor and HDMI cable. No video. This one at least the power button works. I am beside myself. I am scared to open the others in case I need to send them all back. I do not have time to do RMAs as our video production camp starts June 7th. I am beside myself right now. I am calling them at 8am PST today to find out what is going on. Edit: Also when my class is over I will upload a video to show what is going on. UPDATE: Checked another one and it popped up with Windows setup and had display. I talked with ABS and they are going to be next day shipping 2 new pcs and giving me 30 days to return the current ones I have. They were awesome for customer service and told me if the others have any issue to just call and they will ship out replacements next day as well. I think they should be in the next Secret Shopper video as this was a terrible thing but hey customer service was at least good.

Hello everyone, I have bought a new prebuilt computer from Newegg. The model is an ABS Gladiator gaming PC (ALI502) Specs are: Gigabyte Auros Z590 Elite AX (Updated to latest bios) 2x8 Gskill Tridenz 3200mhz ram Intel i7 10700k Evga 750ga full modular power supply Evga RTX3080 Ultra FTW3 My problem is, it's not giving display but all of the lights, fans are working. So I made some inspections. I plugged off the GPU. PC works fine and booted into windows. I tried another PCI port for the rtx3080. Same problem I have tried my old GTX650 ti boost. It works. I plugged my rtx3080 into my old rig with the EVGA 750ga PSU. It didn't work either. I tried another 750w PSU, same problem. I have tried to change CSM, 4G Resizeble bar support, etc on the bios. I switched EVGA rtx3080 bios modes. All of the Three 8 pin VGA cables are separated and connected to the PSU. I have cleared CMOS and reset bios several times. I switched the ram slots, left only one. Changed the integrated GPU to enabled the bios so I can get a display from the mobo. It seems like it's stuck on the Auros bios logo. I can't even get into bios. Nothing fixed the problem. The card is not completely dead, fans and LEDs are working. So I suspicious about which one is DOA. I have contacted Newegg. They directed me to the ABS customer cases and they told me they cannot provide me an RMA because it was an international order and I should send it to NewEgg. Why wouldn't they check out and tested the PC in the first place? It already took me some time to handle the paperwork for the customs and shipment. Returning the whole pc to the NewEgg is a complete nightmare for me. I am living in Turkey. So I contacted the EVGA and successfully register my card on the EVGA website. It has 3 years of warranty. It looks like I will send my card to the RMA. Before that, I would like to get your comment and suggestion. Maybe I am missing something.

Good morning! Recently, I've been wanting to get into 3D printing, and I'm waiting for my tax return to buy a printer to make tools and other things. There are plenty of options on the market from what I see, and I've been looking into a few affordable options for a starter printer. I've looked at the following options: Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer V2 Monoprice Mini Delta 3D Printer Creality Ender 3 My current budget is approximately $200 (give or take a few bux) and I was wondering which of those printers has the best quality for the price. I'm planning on working mostly with PLA, and I would really appreciate advice from people who are experts in this subject. I'd also like to know what pros and cons you have for each if you own any of these. If you have any other recommendations for other printers, that would be appreciated as well. Thank you for reading this, and any help would be appreciated. UPDATE: I'm aware that filament will increase my price. I don't include it in my budget because I have a separate budget for that already (about $100). I also already included tax and stuff. All ~$200 is purely for the printer.

So the link is here: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883102377&buyingoptions=New If you can not see what it is. I will put it here for you. Name: ABS Battlebox Essential Vortex Leo CPU: I7 8700k GPU: Gtx 1060 6gb RAM: 16Gb DDR4 2400Mhz PSU: 600W (Name not found, I can swap that out..) CASE: Rosewill Stryker M OS: Windows 10 MB: Intel Z370 (Don't know which brand) HDD: 1TB 7200rpm SSD: 240GB PRICE: $1,099 with Free Shipping It is not Open Box and it is not Refurbished. Seems like a good deal to me. Sale ends in 2 Days. Buy or no?

Anyone have any idea what Font are these keycaps using ? Or it's completely customize and exclusive to this ? Are there any other set of keycaps have Fonts like this one ?? And why is this so freaking expensive.... https://originative.co/products/dsa-penumbra

Hello, posted a couple times in may am here within a month of purchasing and have found this ABS pre built. ABS Vortex Aries http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=83-102-271 here is what I originally planned on getting its from Asus ASUS ROG STRIX GD30 Gaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDTP5H1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_48LyzbRK7RJ52 So yeah one over the other? I've had more experience with asus. But not so much at all with ABS so anything helps. Thanks guys.

I'm trying to find replacement keycaps for my Corsair K95 keyboard. The problem is, they use nonstandard keycaps. So, other than the rather ghastly translucent ones from MAX keyboard, what else is there on the market in this category?

So after building a new machine and getting the Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Aura, I got a 3D printer and started to teach my self modeling and printing. Since that mother board has stand offs for attaching 3d printed items like IO Covers and armor. I wanted to start adding some of this stuff to my rig. Has anyone done this with PLA? How does the PLA deal with the temps of the inside of a PC Case? 3d Printer - Monoprice Maker select v2.1 (a Wanhao clone) NZXT H440 Case EVGA GTX 970 (probably a 1080 TI soon) I7 6700K on a Corsair h100i V2

Hello! If you're reading this, you're probably in the market for a shiny new 3D printer! But wait, you're a broke, like the rest of us so you're looking at one of those cheap Chinese Prusa i3 printers. Now the Prusa i3 is a very solid reprap design, but the best design doesn't work very well with electronics that cost less than a $5 foot long. Now. Let me try to convince you why you should save your pennies a little longer and splurge on a much better machine. Printers like this are put together with cut rate materials, printed parts, and most importantly, shitty electronics. Crappy stepper motors or controllers can miss steps, which means your nozzle will over of undershoot where it's supposed to go causing a shitty inaccurate print. Another common issue is a shitty hot end and extruder combos. A proper hot end and extruder costs more than some of the cheap printers out there. This is because they are quality products. Similar issues can be caused by bad mechanics. Belts that aren't cut properly, bad bearings, bushings, or linear components can cause similar issues. A cheap hotend can heat the filament unevenly or melt the plastic. If the filament gets melted in the part of the hot end that's supposed to be cold, this will cause the filament to jam as a plug will form in the cold zone of the hot end. To say the least, this is bad news bears. A bad extruder can also cause problems. If the feeder can't grab the filament properly, the machine will usually under extrude which will put holes in your layers. So, now that I've spent a good amount of time shitting on the printer you can afford with money to spair for a Gtx 1080, let me recommend some machines that are reliable enough for a beginner in the 3D printing world. As I mentioned before, the Prusa i3 is a very solid design. The man who designed it, Joseph Prusa, owns a company that produces the best version of this printer. And I truly mean the best. The Prusa i3 MK2 is not only one of the best budget 3D printers, it is one of the best desktop 3D printers on the market. Oh, did I mention it's half the price of the next best machine. Don't believe me? Check out these reviews. http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers Now, what if you're willing to spend more money on a machine, or you need something a little more professional? Well, my dear, Ultimaker is here! Ultimaker is generally regarded as THE printer to buy if you just want something to work. The i3 mk2 is still a very reliable machine that prints very well because of its auto bed leveling, but Ultimaker has been making some of the highest quality machines since like 2010. I personally have an Ultimaker original kit with a heated bed add-on. This machine is damn fine, I rarely have a failed print and the quality it produces is incredible. Ultimaker's newer machines are even better. The 2+ has an improved hot end, part cooling system, and feeder for increased reliability. See reviews here: I personally attest to the Ultimaker ecosystem being one of the easiest to learn and use regularly. These machines require little to no tinkering as they were engineered by some geniuses in the Netherlands, and the community they as a company have created is astounding. Ultimaker is so community driven that everything they produce is open source after six months of the product being on the market. Ultimaker has recently released their third generation printer. This machine is designed to create an ecosystem for professional use cases. This machine is equipped with two extruders for dual extrusion, mostly for dissolveable support material to allow for beautiful prints. It also sports NFC tags in the filament spools so the printer knows exactly what it's using and how to print with that material. All of this is great, but a professional ecosystem comes with a professional price. I personally would not recommend this for the hobbyist/maker, the original and 2+ are better values for those applications. https://ultimaker.com/en/products So, all these machines are great, but what if you have Ultimaker dreams with a Chinesium budget? The i3 mk2 is $700, an Ultimaker Original+ is like $1300, and a 2+ is like $2000. So what else is there? Especially for under $500? Well, you're in luck! The American company Printrbot (yes that's spelled right) makes high quality, budget machines. They're not the best, but they're still pretty good. They're cheapest machine is known as the Play. And, it's pretty good. For $400, this thing is pretty damn good. Unfortunately, it must be attached to a computer to feed it gcode commands, but that's a small price to pay for the quality in parts and prints it produces. https://printrbot.com/shop/certified/

Hi All, I was curious if anybody has used PET+ Filament for 3D printing. I mainly use PLA for test prints, then final product in ABS depending on use. I currently use a FlashForge Creator Pro and use the Makerware program to slice my prints. So I was curious if you guys had any experience in using this filament or what you guys use for your prints.

Hi, I'm looking to buy a 3D printer for personal use. I have some experience in using one, but zero experience in buying one. I'm currently looking at an Asterid 2000 from Plastic Scribbler for $500. It uses 1.75mm non-proprietary PLA filaments and has a build volume of 8x8x9.5 inch. Can anyone suggest a better 3D printer for a similar price? I would like to keep within this price range but would not mind a more expensive printer if additional features justify the cost. some criteria on the printer: must use non-proprietry filament preferably uses standard 1.75mm filaments preferably able to use more than one kind of filament decent build volume also please list any necessary additional software (besides a CAD program) with your printer recommendation. Thank you!!

What's the difference? Edit: Is there any barebones (no keycaps) pbt keyboards?

Just a thead for keycap discussion, don't think there is such a thing already. So what keycap do you prefer? abs/pbt? double shot, laser printed, dye sublimation, sideways/topways, blank? color scheme? key layout? what are you currently using? Shout out your preference and reasoning, post pictures if you like. Will make a poll when i got time to include(hopefully) all the options.