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Hello. So I recently handed down some old PC parts to a friend to get their dead PC back up and running. ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero Wifi Intel Core i9-9900k 32 GB ram Corsair RM850 PSU Friend provided new boot storage, case, and GPU. My old parts had been stored in their original boxes for the last few months. They were my daily driven components until I upgraded to a Ryzen 7000 series rig. Anyway, I rebuild his machine, get a successful post, update bios, and get Windows 11 installing. Right off the bat, the BIOS interface is on the sluggish side. Takes about a second to switch menu items. Secondly, the windows installer took a bit longer than usual given I was installing to an NVMe drive. Once we got into windows I immediately new something was up because the machine felt comicallly slow. I got HWmonitor and cinebench installed (chipset and other hardware drivers were installed at this time) and ran it. To my dismay, I noted that the CPU package was only drawing 40 watts under load and core frequencies were bouncing between 800 mhz and 4700 mhz tending to stay at 800. Temperatures barely touched 40C at their peaks. Clearly the CPU is not running correctly and is hitting some weird power limit or isn't being fed adequate power. I have verify secure seating of all PSU cables including the 8pin+4pin for the CPU. Things I have tried: XMP on and off, no change. ASUS MCE on and off , no change. In windows, power plan set to high performance. I'm kind of at a loss with this one.
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- troubleshooting
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Hi, It'd been a long time since I'd maintained my loop so I flushed and replumbed my water cooling system yesterday. Everything was fine when my computer suddenly turned off. I have an Z390 AORUS XTREME mobo with a 9900k cpu. I have 4 dims of 16gb ram in it. The cpu has it's own CLC system separate from the custom system that I flushed and replumbed which is for my EVGA ftw 3 3080. I have an EVGA GQ 1000 watt 80 gold PSU I conducted the following tests using a thing that goes on the main power cable that does the same thing as using a paper clip. When the power supply is connected to nothing it seems to work. If I connect the peripherals the pump system seems to work. The power supply continues to work when I connect the gpu and Sata power. When the main cable is connected to the mobo I see the on mobo power button light light up. When I plug in cpu power cables and try to turn on the psu it makes a click and doesn't turn on. The fan of the psu doesn't spin. If I disconnect the cables and wait a few minutes the psu seems to spin it's fan again. Did I break my PSU? The CPU? The RAM? The MOBO? How can I trouble shoot this?
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Hey gang. First post here and already looking for help... *sigh*, let me get right in to it. I have a i9-9900k with a Gigabyte Z390 AORUS Pro, 32GBs of RAM and a new edition to my RIG, a massive founders' edition nVidia RTX 3090. I have installed all drivers up to date, PC running silent (Thanks to the water cooled CPU), perfect temp. Only issue is that the CPU in games (tested: GoW,MC,Fortnite) runs very very high, at least 70-80% utilization even though the games are set to use the nVidia card instead (duh). I have reinstalled drivers, removed and re-added card, restarted many times, but the issue consists. I have read only that there might be some bottlenecks (10-12%?) with this CPU, but before with my RTX 2080S I did not have any issues. Any ideas on how to proceed? Did I "mess up"? Or just need to change some settings around somewhere what I am not aware of. Thank you in advance! All the help needed what I can get, so I don't go financially bankrupt haha Also sorry if I posted in the wrong thread, please let me know and I will move this!
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If I have a 9900k cpu will it be bottlenecked by a 3080ti or if the gpu will get bottlenecked by the older cpu; or will there be no change at all and everything will run smoothly?
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Hello! I'm running an RTX 3070 and want to overclock my Intel 9900k. I've been using a 550w PSU from be quiet! I used to run a 5 ghz overclock, but after updating BIOS for Windows 11, I lost my overclock settings. I'm upgrading to the be quiet! Darkpower 12 1000w PSU. My goal is a 5 ghz overclock again, but I don't know what voltage to aim for. My questions are: What voltage should I start testing with? What is the lowest voltage I should aim for? Also how should I go about testing whether my overclock is stable or not?
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So i recently got an aorus 3080 12gb card, my frames in game are far less than expected. i've compared with friends and game benchmarks that I've seen online. and im not getting anywhere close to what other results show. example, Hunt Show down. most benchmarks show at 1440p all ultra settings and get around 150fps. i only get about 75-85. Most of the games im playing with friends, they are getting better fps with worse hardware. im also seeing that alot of games are not using 100% GPU usage. i upgraded from a 1080ti and i feels more like a downgrade. and its like this in most of the games ive tried. i have tried removing 2xM.2 drives (there where 3) and removed 2 sticks of ram (there where 4. (32GB) and ive reinstalled windows. i cant think of anything else other than a new cpu/ MOBO, but im not sure, and feedback/ help is VERY appreciated.
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Greetings LTT Forum, This is my first post here on the forum so I'm sorry if it's not in the right caregory but i think this should be the right one. Anyhow, to my question: I'm mostly playing Rust and i know it's a game that isn't optimized at it's finest, but I'm only getting avg 60-80fps and my duo I'm playing with is getting avg 80-110fps when we are on the same server, same position looking at the same direction. To my knowledge (Maybe I'm wrong idk) we should have around the same performance? So I'm wondering, what could i do to make my computer push slightly higher frames? I coudn't help noticing that almost every TimeSpy test with similar spec is running faster ram, from 3200 to 4200Mhz. Could my computer get a slight boost if i purchase something like Kingston 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL17. I don't think i need the 32GB that i have right now since I'm only gaming and I'm running maximum of 10 tabs on chrome when browsing hence why I'm looking for faster 16gb sticks. Iam willing to spend anything for a slight performance boost or is my CPU just old and outdated and i need to swap everything? And no, I'm not limited by thermals and i keep the computer free from dust at all times. My Timespy test: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/27345191 Comparison: https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/27345191/spy/24784404/spy/22999205/spy/23116898/spy/25941686/spy/25570781# My friends spec: Ryzen 5 5600X, RX 6700 XT, Corsair DDR4 3600MHz. My spec: i9 9900K, RTX 3070 LHR, Corsair DDR4 2666MHz. Thanks in advance Sincerely, Ice
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Ahoy there, Its been quite a while since I last was here... I'm AT0MAC and I used to build a whole lot of PCs, but as the market have been lately, I mainly only upgrade my own PC(s) these days. This is one of those - this is my main PC, my gaming PC, my video editing PC First let me show you what we are working with: Intel Core i9 9900KF Asus ROG X Code Z370 64 GB RAM DDR3000 Jonsbo RAM heatspreaders with RGB 2 TB Nvme internal storage + a 1 TB HDD, a 500 GB HDD and a 250 GB SSD Asus ROG RYUJIN 360 AIO Asrock Radeon RX 6800 XT Taichi X 16G OC graphics Lots of Corsair ML120 fans Phanteks RGB fan frames Cablemod cablekit Corsair AX1200 Gold PSU InWin 103 case I think thats about it, plus a few external SSDs and haddrives. Let me say by the way, all pictures are taken with my phone and some of them in not so great lighting conditions, so I've chosen to simplify their look and it will mainly be a black/white story about my PC build
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Hi, I have a problem, that has popped up, in last couple of months, From time to time I have hard-crashes, not even doing anything intensive, just office work. 3-4 chrome windows each around 5 tabs, Word, Excel, maybe photoshop in background. I have 9900K with 32GB 2800MT RAM. Temps are ok, I am running 9900K @4.9 with dark rock 4. The crash sometimes is just a blue screen, sometimes some random AV glitch, and after the crash it goes to BIOS and displays, that it can’t boot, and should revert some settings (don’t remember, but had that happen today) and shows RAM speed. I Just revert everything back to what it was and its ok for like 4 weeks. Also, I don’t really shut down my PC, as I’m too lazy to deal with setting up everything in the morning.
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I am in need of a dust filter for my corsair rm850x (lost it) and was wondering if you guys could recommend me one that would fit and be good for a power supply? And one that won't choke my fans. I am basically just super worried I will buy one and it will increase my psu temp too high, heres one I was looking at via https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ARB5E8A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 Which type of filter is best to use do you think... nylon or plastic? silvertek tells me nylon... but I don't know. I have looked online for a couple weeks at Amazon's products and reviews and people just seems to disagree with each other on every single filter I find... they often mention "CHOKES FANS" or "HOLES TOO BIG" i can't seem to find an in between and I don't know if demciflex is affordable for me. I thought of using panty hose and dryer sheets but I want a permenant solution. Asked corsair for a replacement and they told me it's a legacy case and they do not carry any more parts for this case either. so I thought I'd come and ask here. My case is the Masterbox 5 - black with meshflow front pannel, and here https://imgur.com/a/iwS6aiK is a photo of where the filter needs to fit. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, as I am not playing any games until I replace a dust filter. thankyou!
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Hello So first of all i have an 9900K former running 5ghz allcore on manual vcore 1,35v llc 6 @ ~80° celcius max on Cinebench R20 on an Asus Maximus XI Extreme with 2x G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB 3600mhz CL16 with 1.2 vccio and 1.2 vccsa Powersupply is Corsair HX 1000 and i have 2 seperated water loops. 1 for CPU and 1 for GPU. Radiators per loop = 2x Nemesis Blackice GTX 560, with an EK D5 240mm RGB res combo. Waterblock CPU= AC XPX Acryl with rgb frame Waterblock GPU= EKWB 1080ti FTW3 Acryl+ BP So i changed my 1080ti to an 6900xt (with an AC GPX Acryl Waterblock) and i changed from push to push pull on all radiators with Noctua AF 140 pwm fans (was only push with noctua ones) Since then my 9900k thermal throttle like hell. Even in stock config 4,7ghz allcore 1,25v reaching around 90° what i tryed: Reapply WLP = no help Reseat Waterblock = no help Changed pressure on Waterblock mounting= no help so then i took a look at the cpu it self= for me it looks like the pcb (exactly where the DIE is) is a little bit "bend" in the direction of the socket. not much but i think it does. than i tryed to lap the IHS a bit (so u cant read 9900k on ihs anymore, wanted to make it more flat) = no help my guess is that cause of the bend the contact to the indium solder is not that great anymore. So what can i do? i thought about deliding, get rid of the indium with liquid metal and than reapply liquid metal to cleaned die and a new copper IHS. or... cause of the solder temp of the smd´s (220° celcius) and the indium solder melting temperature (156,7°) would it be possible to heat the cpu up to the indium solder temp so the indium could regain good contact? What would u do? (Except get rid of it) Thanks in advance for your time and help with this special problem.
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CPU i9 9900k Motherboard Asus ROG Strix z390-h gaming RAM Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 LED Desktop Memory, Black GPU GTX 2080 ti MSI Trio Case Cooler Master Masterbox 5 Mid-Tower Case Storage 500gb 960 evo, 2 tb Black SSD PSU EVGA 750W GOLD edition Cooler h100i 240mm rgb pro I have had this pc for a couple years, had troubles in past with temperatures and thermal throttling, which was fixed at the time by increasing pl2 limit over 95w to like 115w. I stopped doing that awhile ago though. Today after cleaning out my computer with compressed air really well for once in awhile i decided to to run cinebench for my first time ever. I clicked the mutlicore test. After 10 seconds and i saw 100 degrees celcius almost instantly. My friends told me to quickly turn it off. I was told I should reapply thermal paste and reset bios and reset xmp. This has worried me because i am receiving conflicting information regarding cinebench. People say that if you cannot run cinebench without throttling you do not have adequite cooling. I have also been told that cinebench is not even remotely close to real world applications and doesnt reflect normal use. ``` I don't know what to believe or do, I am so dumb with computers in all honesty. I get really really overwealmed easily. Idle temps are fine 38c package, average for gaming is like 75c highest temperature i see on my 9900k when gaming ever was like high 80's during battlefield and red dead 2. Should I be worried? Is this VCore too high? Should I reapply my thermal paste? I have never overclocked my cpu only ever tried under volting with xtu.
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CPU i9 9900k Motherboard Asus ROG Strix z390-h gaming RAM Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 LED Desktop Memory, Black GPU GTX 2080 ti MSI Trio Case Cooler Master Masterbox 5 Mid-Tower Case Storage 500gb 960 evo, 2 tb Black SSD PSU EVGA 750W GOLD edition this is after gaming for awhile on battlefront 2 and warzone. I am very unfamiliar with my bios so i was scared to try to fix anything but is this acceptable voltage and temps? sometimes the cpu will even throttle when playing red dead redemption 2. when this happens i undervolt my cpu in intel xtu, and increase pl1 and pl2 limits and that fixes it. but is there a way to do that in my bios?
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Hello guys, I'm new here. Just got myself a i9 9900k. First boot was OK and it reached 5000 MHz on some of the cores but after restarting a few times and running some benchmarks I saw it only got to 4700 MHz on all cores under load and never went back to 5000 MHz again. I read around and saw that this is because of the 95 watt limitation. Made some tweaks on the mobo and now it reaches 4900 MHz in Turbo mode. But never to 5000 MHz as the specs from Intel suggest... However, I couldn't help but notice that I also get crazy high voltages from time to time - please see screenshot: My question is: How can I get the processor to work as per specifications given in Wikichip for that particular CPU WITHOUT OVERCLOCKING IN ANY WAY? Here they are: Config: CPU: 9900k Mobo: Asus TUF Z390 Pro Gaming RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury Black - 2x16GB @ 3200 MHz NVME: Samsung 970 Evo Plus - 500GB GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Armor OC Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 HDD: Toshiba 3 TB / 7200 rpm PSU: Super Flower Leadex II - 750W Gold Case: FSP CMT510 Thank you to everyone who responds!
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Hi, After AMD launched their new CPUs its becoming more confusing on which is better for gaming? more cores? threads, speed? the 5600x destroyed all theories that more cores is better or more clock speed is better, having a CPU like the 5600x with 6 cores and 12 threads @4.6ghz beating 8 cores 16 threads intel CPU like the 9900K or 10900K @5.ghz? does buying 5600x future proof? I mean only 6 cores and 12 threads @4.6ghz! what games really want? cores or more speed, do game fully utilize the threads or not?
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i have a evga supernova 850 80 plus platinum power supply 9900k a zotac rtx 2080 ti and my motherboard is a asus rog strix z390-e. when im doing gpu or gpu and cpu bench marks i see that in hwmonitor it is saying that im hitting operational voltage limit, reliable voltage limit and power limit gpu pulls almost 300w cpu pulls 218w in occt power test gpu hits coltage limit and power limit when core voltage and power limit is set all the way up and the cpu is not over clocked
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CPU i9 9900k Motherboard Asus ROG Strix z390-h gaming RAM Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 LED Desktop Memory, Black GPU GTX 2080 ti MSI Trio Case Cooler Master Masterbox 5 Mid-Tower Case Storage 500gb 960 evo, 2 tb Black SSD PSU EVGA 750W GOLD edition pretty positive its my psu thats making massive coil whine, for starters, what would you recommend? I have considered RMA'ing this thing but I don't want to wait long without my computer I do not remember buying any kind of special warranty either... should I just replace the entire modular psu and get a new one? If so, I plan on upgrading to a 3080 soon what psu would go well with this setup? Also if you guys have any fixes for coil whine please let me know because this is really annoying. thanks.
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Cooling: h100i PRO AIO CPU i9 9900k Motherboard Asus ROG Strix z390-h gaming RAM Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 LED Desktop Memory, Black GPU GTX 2080 ti MSI Trio Case Cooler Master Masterbox 5 Mid-Tower Case Storage 500gb 960 evo, 2 tb Black SSD PSU EVGA 750W GOLD edition I have some coil whine, I cannot tell if its coming from my psu or my gpu. could be either or. I contacted MSI (my manufacturer) and they told me to try a new MB and GPU such as swap them out and see if it was those parts causing the whine. As you can guess I do not have access to these parts. I am really not sure what the best course of action for me would be. Should I take it to a computer shop that has these spare parts and see if they can diagnose the problem more thorougly? or should I just RMA my 2080ti/750W evga psu? I looked inside the psu and it was REALLY dusty. (I have a lot of animals) Thanks PS, I did clean it out thoroughly
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2020 Build thread for a new machine. Started at the beginning of the year with this and slow and gradually over a 12 month period i've upgraded numerous times and swapped out a stupendous amount of components, not to mention the money spent on all the parts. Here we are end of 2020 and we are still upgrading and still tinkering... let the build log begin... Q1 2020 Planning Parts used: My basket at Overclockers UK: 1 x EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 D5 PWM D-RGB Pump / Reservoir Combo - Plexi= £169.99 1 x ThermalTake Riing 120mm LED RGB Fan Sync Edition - Triple Pack= £44.99 1 x XSPC TX360 Ultra Thin Copper Triple Black Radiator - 360mm= £52.99 1 x Corsair ML120 Pro LED White 120mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan= £19.99 1 x Corsair Hydro X Series XT 14mm Hardline Clear Tubing - 3 x 1m (CX-9059003-WW)= £17.99 1 x XSPC G1/4" to 14mm Rigid Tubing Triple Seal Fittings - (Black Chrome) - 8 Pack= £28.99 Everything else i've had previously so was reused in this build. One thing i learnt through this rebuild, the corsair hydro x tubing is much harder than the usual PETG stuff im use to. I didn't see this when i bought it and thought it was standard PETG but turns out its PMMA which is an acrylic/poly carbonate plastic so had to use a saw to cut it. You can imagine my face when i first tried to cut it with a new tube cutter lol! I do love this tubing way more though, its much more resistant to scratches and looks clearer. Would definitely be using this again over PETG. The EK Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 - First impressions... It's very solid, very good quality and weighty! The machining is top notch and the material itself is very scratch resistant as i found out when i dropped a few heavy fittings on it by accident! It comes with all the necessary mounting hardware and an allen key tool to remove the G1/4 plugs. I got the FLT version with the D5/DDC mount at the back. As standard, the ports on the face are plugged leaving 2 open ports at the bottom. I feel like the ports at the bottom should have been plugged instead, its very easy to miss and forget that there's actually ports down there.. just something to look out for. The block also comes with a built in LED strip which i have yet to test out but does fit on a standard 5v ARGB header. One thing i did notice and that i always do with EK blocks is testing how tight the screws are in. In this instance the screws were loose. If i was to fill this res block, it probably would have leaked eventually if not straight away as the vibration from the pump. I would 100% you check all your blocks from EK when you first get them to make sure they screws are in tight! As usual, a couple of pictures of the process and a short description. Getting the EK Quantum Kinetic mounted with the D5 pump mounted at the rear. Getting all this mounted together with the fan at the back for intake was an absolute ball ache to do! The standard screws that came with the kit is not long enough, i had to dig out some old screws i had to make this all work. Also note to remember to block off the bottom ports on the res block before you install it. Last thing you want is to fill it and have all the coolant fall out the bottom! New fans, Thermaltake Riing! Came with the controller which i strategically placed under the res for easy access. ML120's at the top, nice crisp but not over the top bright White led fans This bitspower EF Summit that i've had for a millennia now... GPU installed with the riser kit from Phanteks. There is no room underneath, the verti mount sits on the fans shroud... The first bend! Used a mixture of tools and free hand to get the bends right, took a few attempts but PMMA is quite easy to work with provided you get it hot enough. Minimizing those angled fittings and adding more complex bends, something my last build lacked. Finally getting the last of the piping in but need to cut some down to fit a flow meter inbetween. Also not 100% happy with the top bend, its slightly sacking downwards. OCD kicks in, will need to adjust it. More to come later! Another thing to note, i found PMMA tubing fits much tighter in XSPC 14mm fittings. Probably due to the fact that it was designed for PETG and not PMMA. They do fit but takes alot more force to get them in, really have to twist and wiggle them to get them past the orings even with a nice chamfer edge.
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I am using stock thermal paste that was on my 240mm h100 pro rgb and I am not happy with the temperatures during gaming i can see as high as 80* C on cyberpunk. Averaging between 70-80. I am considering buying new thermal paste such as the Kryonaught Thermal Paste. https://www.amazon.ca/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=kryonaught+thermal+paste&qid=1608749538&sr=8-8 Heard good things about this stuff and seems to drop temps by around 4 degrees in most benchmarks I've watched. What thermal paste would you guys recommend for the absolute best temperatures possible.I was also considering buying a new AIO perhaps a 360mm rad instead of 240m, what aio would you guys choose if you were to upgrade the cooler? Thanks CPU i9 9900k Motherboard MSI MPG Z390M Gaming Edge AC LGA1151 RAM Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 LED Desktop Memory, Black GPU GTX 2080 ti MSI Trio Case Cooler Master Masterbox 5 Mid-Tower Case Storage 500gb 960 evo, 2 tb Black SSD PSU EVGA 750W GOLD edition
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I am wanting to overclock my cpu to get better performance in cyberpunk 2077, I have an h100i PRO AIO. was just wondering if this would be a good idea or is this cooling not sufficient? I am only hoping to get a 5ghz OC on maybe 2 or 4 cores. Any suggestions? Specs: Cooling: h100i PRO AIO CPU i9 9900k Motherboard Asus ROG Strix z390-h gaming RAM Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 LED Desktop Memory, Black GPU GTX 2080 ti MSI Trio Case Cooler Master Masterbox 5 Mid-Tower Case Storage 500gb 960 evo, 2 tb Black SSD PSU EVGA 750W GOLD edition
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For a while now my stock i9-9900k, being cooled by the Kraken x72 has been thermal throttling. This usually happens when under high loads which, since I do a lot of work in Unreal Engine is a big issue. The temperature typically spikes to the late 80's when running Prime95 and occasionally ticking into the early 90s. This is all on stock speeds with default BIOS settings. I have tried adjusting the CPU core frequency and offset settings to no avail. Below is a screenshot of the results during thermal throttling while running Prime95. Bouncing between 800MHz and 4.7ghz. I have also tried re-seating the AIO cooler several times and cleaning all the associated parts etc.
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Hi ! So i would like to overclock my I9-9900k but i never overclocked before so i was wondering if anyone would give me tips or give me some link of trustable people teaching how to overclock. I just wanna make sure i do not fuck something up. I do not want to do a crazy overclock and go from 4.7 to 5.2ghz. I would like to try 4.9ghz and if its stable maybe ill try 5.0ghz Thanks to anyone trying to help, as i said i am new to this so i might not understanf everything so sorry if i ask a lot of questions !
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Hey guys, I've recently come to the conclusion that my current i5 4690k build is a bit outdated and that I need to upgrade a bit. I'm not super worried about being on the "cutting edge of performance" or anything, but I'd like to at least see a nice bump. I currently have a 4690k with 32GB DDR3. I use the computer mostly for gaming and simulations for work which are (from what the IT people tell me) optimized mainly for Intel CPUs, so I'd like to stay with Intel, despite the large performance gap currently see between the blue and red teams. I was looking at my local Micro Center and saw that the i9 9900k is only $320 over there right now, and will probably be even cheaper in the next month or so with Ryzen 5xxx series and black Friday/cyber Monday deals on the way. At this price point is the 9900k worth getting? Or should I just opt for a 10700k (10900k is a bit out of price range, the most I really want to spend on a CPU is ~$400) when the deals come around? (if I can get one) Just looking for some quick pointers, I've been out of the PC building game for quite a while and I'm not too knowledgeable on the more recent hardware. Thanks for the help.
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Hi all, So my first post! I have very tall Corsair RAM and a compact ATX case (Fractal Design Define C). The RAM rules out any tower coolers and it even conflict to some degree with a top mounted 240mm AIO. The radiator presses against RAM corners and I feel uncomfortable with that. I don't want to mount the cooler in the front. I'm thinking about replacing the RAM then with low profile sticks. My current RAM is 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance 3000, CL15 which is nice but since I'm going to (probably) replace it I might as well go for an upgrade. I have my eyes on Corsair Vengeance 3600, CL14: RAM on Amazon But I wonder if it will work with a 9900K (OC all cores at 5GHz) on a Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro WiFi . The board officially supports 3600 and the Corsair rep on Amazon said it "should" work with Z390, but I've read that the 9900K may be picky over anything above 3200. Any thoughts on this? Thanks a lot.