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Showing results for tags '980ti'.
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Hi guys i have some troubles lately with my pc. when i run hard latest games such as God of War or Cyberpunk, even Stray the cat game. i play around 5 minutes and my pc just crashes and rebboot but i can play fornite at 75 fps locked for 5 hours or more and will never crash. i am not hitting any heat problems cause my cpu and gpu both stays under 70 degress celsius. so i think i may be the voltage i try many overclocks settings even playing whithout any overclock just crashes so i really don know what can be. Any help or tips if anyone is having same issue Maybe the motherboard??? Also i am usiong a widescreen 2560*1080 i dont know if this have something to do with it. THANKS IN ADVANCE.
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Hey all, I was playing a game earlier today when my computer completely shut off. Afterwards it would make no visible attempt to boot aside from the mobo lights turning on. No fans. Took it apart. Isolated it to the GPU. At some point smelled burning electronics and took it apart. I don't know what part this is, does anyone else? And is there a resource somewhere I can look to for future reference? I can take a picture of an intact one. There are a couple around (at least what I think it is). I can provide other pictures as well.
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So I need to test a 980ti to see if it works is it okay if I run it on a 450 bronze PSU if it works I'm planning to upgrade to a 500watt gold psu. all I'm gonna do to test it well A. Check that it boots B.check that it's what it says it is
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Hi. I want to buy 980ti and run it with my Ryzen 3 3100. I have Corsair CX450. Is it enough?
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So last night, me beloved GTX 980ti went on a trip to see puff the magic smoke dragon, and did not return. Background: I took apart the cooler on the GPU and pretty quickly spotted two issues. One seems minor (corrosion around one PCIE Pin), the other fatal. I guess my question is... can anyone help me identify the obviopusly blown capacitor? Normally I wouldn't bother, but I'm a tinker and with this market I might as well try to replace it and see what happens. If anyone has specs on this 980TI mainboard or can otherwise divine what the capacitor is that I need to replace, I will be eternally grateful. My card is an EVGA 980TI Hybrid. To be clear, I realize I could probably de-solder the capacitor next to the broken one and check its specs, but if I could do that and the capacitor survived the process I would still need to be walked through how to determine its specs. I also realize there could be 1000 other issues with the board that I just can't see, and that plugging it in after 'fixed' could fry my PC.... But desperate times call for desperate measures.
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I made a post about this about 2 years ago: "There was a short circuit in house electricity grid and the GPU stopped to send video signal, there seems to be one blown transistor and the YAMAHA reciever HDMI ports are fried so there is no HDMI input. The card turns on but doesn't output video signal. What should I do?" and those who responded told me that I should RMA it, but the warranty had expired a while ago. As I remember, he gpu made a popping sound and died... There is this one APW7142 chip that is fried. I am asking for your expertise and help with this matter (on how to repair it) Thanks in advance!
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I found a good priced 980ti and i really want to get it but i don't know if I should. I know that nvidia graphics card will be in stock regularly in like a year but for right know i have a gpu-less pc. What do you guys think? Also its priced around 450 the 980ti.
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Hey all. I purchased a 980ti hybrid from EVGA almost six years ago, and lately my temps have been pretty toasty compared to a year or so ago. I used to sit around the low 30s at idle and maybe 50 or so under load, but now I've noticed that even under just general web browsing, my temps increase steadily until they hit the low 50s and then plateau; they won't get any lower after my system has been on for any length of time. Under real loads (gaming, torture test, etc) they get into the high 60s but never cools below 50. I understand that thermally the card is in no danger until well above 80, but still the numbers are concerning. The tubing is VERY warm even under idle though I do feel the liquid moving, and the rear exhaust is also very warm. Adjusting the fan does nothing (even ramping it up to 100%) to cool the card. I'm not very mechanically inclined and don't trust myself to tear it apart...but what do you guys think? The GPU market is chaotic right now and I really would rather not purchase another card if I don't have to. I'm using Precision X1 to monitor the temps and make adjustments. I also swapped the original fan that came with it for a Noctua one that is designed for radiator use, and that is plugged directly into the motherboard. I've cleared dust out with some compressed air the best I could. I've also ran the card at stock and have never overclocked it since the day I got it; I literally plopped it into my system and never touched it apart from cleaning it every so often. As a side note, this is a brand new system I put together only a couple weeks ago. I switched teams to Ryzen. I don't know if that matters or not. The case is a TUF GT501 and has three intake fans, a rear exhaust w/ radiator for the GPU and top exhaust for my CPU AIO. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. EDIT: I ran a GPU specific benchmark (Heaven) and my temps slowly climbed until they hit their max safe temp (83 set my X1).
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I have a GTX 980ti and I am trying to run a program that need to use openCL. Is there any way to activate it on my PC? I have the latest Nvidia drivers and have had no issues with my pc up until this point. Any help would be muck appreciated, Thanks
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I having an issue where the clock speed drops every few seconds. I thought it could be heat related but then I went into afterburner and cranked the fan. The temp went down to 52, but there isn't any difference in the timing of the "hiccup". Has anyone ever experienced this? I thought maybe its not getting enough juice when its trying to boost. Changed power supply from a Corsair RM750i to a brand new RM850i I have sitting around. Still the same. I'm running two separate 8 pin cables from the PSU to the 980ti. It was working fine, not sure what could have happened. Any help or suggestions would be highly appreciated.
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I bought this Asus Strix 980ti off ebay as “for parts or not working” but I put it on a test bench and got it to boot into windows. Now, the resolution is significantly lower than it should be and the card gets way too hot. It has a 0db mode but the fans to not kick up at all except for spinning for a moment after turning on the system. I understand that it is to be expected of this card to not work but I’m surprised that it turned on at all. I just want to see if there is any driver or vbios tweaks I could do to maybe make it work or if I just need to replace the bga chip itself. or maybe its something wrong with another part of the board? dunno, there doesn’t seem to be any damage to it. anywho, please shoot me suggestions.
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Im about to upgrade to a RTX 2080 Ti from a GTX 980 Ti. Do i need to power the 2080 Ti card with two separete 6+2 cables or does one 2x(6+2) cable work? im abit lost here and id love to get some guidance
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Hi All, First post here, after all the 3000 series hype i've been considering upgrading my GPU & CPU, currently using the Asus Gold Edition 980ti with a i5-4690K. Was looking to upgrade to the 3070 (when i can get hold of one) and a new Ryzen 3. Never sold parts before and have no idea on the value on a limited edition card like this, it appears to outspec the 'reference 980ti' on the ASUS site but have no idea how well that translates onto the second hand market or if it's even noteworthy this many years down the line. Any thoughts or feedback on the upgrade or how valuing my existing card would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Hello guys... TL;DR: I shove a triple-slot GPU and 240mm AIO into a small case. I started this sff build around october of last year when there wasn't any other reasonably priced sff cases available on amazon. I recently installed another M.2 drive into the system and decided I should take some photos and share my sketchy journey. This is my first time writing a build post so forgive me for the weird formatting and potentially triggering way I built my rig. Part list: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X Cooler: EVGA CLC 240mm Mobo: Asus Rog Strix B450-I Gaming RAM: 2 x 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport 3200, OC'd to 3600 GPU: Zotac GTX 980ti Amp Extreme PSU: Corsair SF750 Platinum SSD: 2 x 1TB Sabrent Rocket NVMe M.2 SSD Fans: 2 x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM, 1 x Noctua NF-A8 PWM Hurdle 1: Installing the GPU According to the Cougar website, the QBX will comfortably fit GPUs up to 350mm in length. My 980ti is only 328mm long. Should be fine right? Nope. This case was designed with dual slot cards in mind and there isn't much information about how tall the gpu can be. I know I was being optimistic thinking that I could fit my card in there, but I didn't know how stupid the solution was going to be. Here's what I did: 1. Attach GPU to motherboard 2. Carefully move GPU+Mobo into case 3. Attach top left screw to mobo 4. Attach top right screw to mobo 5. Attach bottom right screw into mobo with great difficulty 6. Secure GPU screws Now you may think something is missing here and you're right. The bottom left side of my motherboard has nothing holding it in. Also, remember when I wrote I recently installed a second M.2 drive? For this motherboard, the second M.2 slot is on the back of the board. Removing this GPU involves removing everything keeping it and the motherboard in place. Hurdle 2: Installing the AIO cooler According to the Cougar website, the QBX is able to accomodate a 240mm radiator with a single 120mm fan. The reason you can only fit 1 fan is because a full size ATX PSU gets in the way. So, naturally I used a SFX PSU in order to fit my second fan. Ok. Problem solved. Should be fine right? Bitch you thought. The above diagram shows you how a radiator is attached and how it flips down to close. If you look closely, you will see that there are only 4 screwholes to attach a radiator. Guess how many screws are holding in my 240mm radiator. The EVGA CLC 240 comes with the two fans you see in my above picture. While they may work without issue in a more normal case, they do not work in mine. More specifically, due to the shape of the fan sidewalls, there is no way to prevent the fan from eating up the tubes. The interesting fan sidewall design also inlcludes a bonus feature of absolutely garbage static pressure. So here's what I did: I turned the pump clockwise, and replaced the stock fans with a nice pair of noctuas. Attached the rest of the panels onto the case and it's all done! Conclusion The Cougar QBX is fully capable of supporting: - The largest triple-slot beefcake of a 980ti you can buy - A 240mm AIO cooler with 2 fans, provided they have actual sidewalls - My hopes and dreams The noctuas are strong enough allow air to actually flow through the radiator, radiator support, and mesh panel. This is what I consider to be the absolute limits of what the budget Cougar QBX case can accomodate. I would not recommend that anyone follows in my footsteps and no one should, given the release of cases like the Cooler Master NR200P and such. All comments and opinions are welcome! I would like to know your thoughts on my build!
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I'm looking to upgrade my PSU in my current build for fear it is on the brink of failing. My specs are below. PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/NGkyMc CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-A320M-H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6 GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Plus 700 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply The system draws between 400 - 450W under load according to PCPartPicker... So I was looking at the Corsair TX550M 550W Semi-Modular 80+ Gold PSU Any thoughts? Thanks.
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My motherboard (Msi X370 Xpower gaming) is currently running an Evga Geforce GTX 1080 Ti and I was wondering if I could use my 980 ti with it either as SLI or just to run two different operations. Thank you for any help you might Give
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So i am looking at getting an index and see the minimum graphics is a 970. I own a 980ti reference card with 6gb vram and would like to get some opinions on if it will be usable with an index. I will eventually get a better graphics card but i don't want to get the index if what I have now is not even going to be an enjoyable experience until i update the GPU. I would imagine I'd have to bump most settings down quite a bit. Like a lot of you, I want to see what the 3000 series cards do to the market and look to get a 2070 super or 2080 in the future if prices drop a bit. I am currently running an i7-4790k with 16gb DDR3. Those will be updated later on down the road as I am not really seeing any bottlenecks with anything I am running. So what do you think? In almost min 2020 is it worth playing VR on a 980ti? Or should all people with 900 series look to update to minimum 1070-1080. Thanks!
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Hey everyone, Im probably going to be building a new gaming rig soon. I have a 980ti Hall of Fame edition card in my current set up. I was wondering if they go for more in the used market than a regular 980ti.
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Okay, so I may be launching into somewhat uncharted territory here, but... I just did a full build of a great new PC to replace my old sleeper-in-an-industrial case gaming PC. The old build was a fairly capable VR rig, with a moderately recent i7 and duel 980ti's (SLI). The new rig is all the good stuff, i9 (rizen was sold out even in kits...), 2080ti, yada yada. Wife got me the Vive Pro as an update to the Vive and we got the wireless, which I put on the 2080ti. I had already ordered an Index, which just came. I plan to keep both. Wireless is nice, but so is the wider FOV and refresh rate. Question is, should I trade them off on the 2080ti (running them concurrently seems beyond reasonable demands for even that fairly well equipped system, and besides, it sounds like a hazard), or put one on the "980ti's"? And if I do the second, which one gets the older rig and should I try and run them off the same lighthouses or set up two sets? Or am I just crazy? FWIW, I like nice graphics bit I'm definitely not competitive in any kind of online space. I know, I know. This is the extreme of first world problems... but if anyone has tried something like this and has thoughts, then I'm curious.
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Can i use a 400 watts psu to a 980 ti. And it is a good idea to use molex to 6pin connectors of should i do something else?
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Hi guys, i got a Bargain for a 980ti Poseidon Platinum, the card works perfectly fine except for the fan header, its dead, theres no visual damage whatsoever, and all the pints check for continuity but they dont give any voltage signs currently im using the card with an Artic Accelero twin Turbo III hooked directly to the PSU the issue is, i want to use the stock cooler because, well its really good and i plan to watercool later, but i need the fans to work since the VRMS are not cooled by the waterblock part of the cooler, right now i have a heatsink i stole from another card hooked with a freaking ziptie, and it somewhat works, i think the previous owner disabled the fans somehow, idk how, but i already reflashed a new bios and the fans still dont spin at all, they do work if hooked directly to power, again the card works fine, and turbos and yadda yadda, i just want to use the stock cooler
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So, I'm in the early stages of planning to put a customer loop in my current system(Intel 6700k with a GTX 980TI), and I have a question. I know ek made a block for my card (non-reference pcb) a few years ago, but now is no longer made and no where to be found unless someone's got a lead on one. So baring that I'm thinking of just using a GPU only waterblock. My question about that is does anyone know if the MOSFET heatsink under the main heatsink of my card is enough keep the MOSFETs happy as a passive cooler or am I'm going to need to come up with a solution to cool them as well?