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Hey guys, I'm trying to mount my Alphacool XT45 240mm rad in the front mount of my Corsair 750D. Except I've run into one slight problem that I don't know how to go about fixing. The Alphacool rad has a plug on one end to add an option to bleed air from the rad. Unfortunately, when mounting the rad, this plug hits the bottom of the 5.25" bays. The 5.25" bays have rails to allow you to slide in additional HDD drive bays which I won't be using. It's these rails on the bottom of the 5.25" bays that the plug on the top of the rad is hitting. The front fan mount allows you to mount the rad in two different positions, one lower which will get in the way of my rad on the bottom of the case, and one higher, which gives me clearance from the bottom rad but presents me with my current problem of the top plug hitting the rails on the bottom of the 5.25" bays. The plug is a low profile plug by the way, only 3mm in height. This leaves me with either cutting the rails off the bottom of the 5.25" bays somehow, or drilling my own 8 holes to mount the rad in a slightly lower position, if the case allows. I was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue with clearance at the top of their front rad, and how they went about fixing it? Or if anyone has any suggestions? I have no idea how I would cut off the rails I'm talking about, and I'd rather not drill 8 holes if I don't have to, but right now that seems like my best option.

Hi, The front two rubber feet of my Corsair 750D case is slipping off. They're held in place with some sort of adhesive. I have asked corsair about this and they cannot provide replacement rubber feet. I was wondering what would be a good adhesive to secure the rubber feet back in place. I've researched a bit and a few people mentioned silicone adhesive or contact cement. I've considered double sided tape but it might be too thick. One surface is plastic and the other is rubber. Thanks in advance.

Hey! My name is Simon and Today I would like to show my build for you just to give you an idea of how to create a Mid-plate in a Corsair Obsidian 750D. I am 17 years old and have no to little experience in this area, everything I did was completely improvised, except the measuring ofc . Also take in mind that this works for the 750D case and that case only! No other Obsidian case will have the same measurements! The specs on the computer used are GTX 970 G1 Gaming. 4790K @4.8. And the motherboard msi Z97-S02. Having this motherboard allows for the sheet to slide in between a PCI-E slot and all the interface from the motherboard to the Chassi buttons, which makes it look alot cleaner. This might work with other motherboards aswell, but no guarantee. Also keep in mind that this mod allows you too keep the HDD cages inside of the chassi, the only problem is that you cannot have the small handles for the HDD holders, which basically makes them useless, but hey, no need to take them out since they can just aswell be there! To kick it off I will tell you what you need, material wise, skill is not really required. Knowing how to handle big machinery or having someone doing it for you like my dad did is *GOLD*. Note how i clearly meant what i said! GOLD! Optional stuff marked with a "*" at the beginning. One sheet made out of any metal will do. Atleast 325x470x(1-3 should not really matter) millimeters. Metal sheet bender and cutter. A drilling machine with a rather large bit of 25 mm+. This is for the hole where the PCI-E power cables will come up from. *Plexi glass. Almost the same dimensions, 325x470x5. Except a bit thicker. This is to prevent it from cracking since I found bending a thin 2 mm piece was completely impossible. *Spray paint. I used Black and White. Feel free to use whatever. Also remember to use proper paint designed for masking unlike mine, which made it crack and look real nasty, I will have to redo the paintjob completely. At a distance of 1 meter it looks good though! *Sleeved cables. (Mines are ordered and will be here in 1-2 days from the topic creation. Updates will be here then) *Angle grinder or sand paper with a hell of a lot of muscle! This is used to narrow down the edge of the 5 mm plexi to be thin enough to slide below a PCI port on the Motherboard. *Masking tape. If you go for paint, this is a nobrainer! *An LED string to make it look cooler, I went for an RGB one with remote controlling, worth every Swedish crown! *Sandpaper to sand the Plexi in order for the spray paint to grip properly. *Just a writer and some cool icons that you wanna have on your midplate printed out for masking! 750D Obsidian Case ONLY. The measurements will not be proper to any other Obsidian case! Sections This is divided into four, possibly five sections, section 1 being how to shape the metal sheet. Section 2 how to shape the plexiglass and how to handle the surface. Section 3 will be about painting. And finally section 4 will be about inserting the newly ordered sleeved cables and installing the LED string+tips on where to place the IR-Reciever if you bought an RGB one with controller. I might add a section 5 in the future where I build a white cover for the three rubber openings in the 750D (The 24-pin Motherboard power comes out from one of them) to cover the hidious rubber rings and also adding some extra white to the fully black chassi. Once again, this can be done with any color, but personally I prefer Black & White builds over anything else! Section 1 This is the section where I show how to form the metal sheet. So, to get started, I did a prototype with a metal sheet to drill holes etc and to see where things did work out and where they did not. You might decide to stick with the metal which is also a very nice option, then you can just basically skip the ending 70% of this tutorial since it is about painting mostly. The sheet was first cut to 325x470 and then marked at 170 mm in width. It was done with this machine. The machine used for bending it looks like this After a completed bend at the specified point the sheet will look something like this. Test fitting it inside the computer to see if the measurements were correct. Notice how it goes smoothly in between the PCI slot and the bottom connectors. If you use a sheet as your midplate make sure to isolate the ends with more than just paint to prevent it from shorting out and frying your motherboard! Final thing that needs to be done is to drill a hole in the plate on the upper side. This is for the PCI-E cables to come out from and smoothly into the graphics card. This is optional but looks really good. The measurements are a bit different from my graphics card since they all vary in length. This card is really big (Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 970) And needed the hole to be drilled at 220 mm from the left side of the sheet, and 50 from the bend, the hole is drilled on the top side. For clarification it would be the side facing up on the picture above you. Be sure to not just steal these measurements but to actually check for yourself if your GPU is in the length of these measurements. I kinda eyeballed it and marked my spot so finding yours should not be to difficult. Keep in mind that when you are doing this step with plexi glass you will have to first drill a small hole of about 6-10 mm before stepping up to 28-32. I learn this the hard way as my first piece broke in half. I also have to add that you need to be extremely careful and lower the drill very slowly, last thing you want is forcing it through the plastic and cleaving it! SECTION 2 Here starts the section where I will handle the Plexiglass. It starts by cutting a piece of plexi in the same size as the metal sheet. Here is where it becomes tricky however, a 5 mm sheet is a pretty tough task to bend, but it is doable. I tried bending it in the same maching as I bent the metal sheet in but it instantly springed back. I layed more pressure and the BAM, it snapped. You can see the crack to the left. The right piece is the new one. I tried a new approach, where I still used the same machine, but heated the edge on the inside and outside of the plexy for 30 seconds each with a heat gun on maximum heat, then bending about 30 degrees in the metal sheet bender. After doing this 3-4 times the bend was complete with a fine 90 degree angle. Before we move on to section 3 we need to do one more thing. We need to sand the both outer ends of the plexi. Without doing this the spray pain will not stick to the surface, but will instead clump up like drops on the surface, if the paint is not designed for plexi spraying that is... After sanding it might look like this. I have no clue how to sand properly btw, I just went full SMOrc on it and it seemed to do the trick. Also, worth to note is that with a plexi plate over 2 mm you will not be able to fit it properly between the PCI-E connection and the bottom connectors on the motherboard which will make it look kinda bad, therefore you need to get an angle grinder. I used a cutting "blade" looking like this. You can probably use most of the sanding ones. Just be careful so that you don't go too rough on the grinder's "blade" and because of that break plexi glass at 3 mm or so. It will ruin your day. I recommend going for quite a while. Surprisingly it takes quite a while to sand plexy and after about 5 minutes of grinding it looked like this. It was not enought and I had to grind another 10 to make the angle even sharper. If you are uncertain of when it's gonna fit snuggly, test it out every once in a while, if it's too fat, go back to grinding! Only one step left before we move on to section 3, and that is the hole for the PCI-E power cables exactly as the one we did back in section 1. If you need measurements or tips on how to do it, just scroll back up to the last part of section 1 and you'll find it! Keep in mind that when you are doing this step with plexi glass you will have to first drill a small hole of about 6-10 mm before stepping up to 28-32. I learn this the hard way as my first piece broke in half. I also have to add that you need to be extremely careful and lower the drill very slowly, last thing you want is forcing it through the plastic and cleaving it! Okay! The first two sections finished! Only two, possibly three in some week if people show interest and think that this was not too much of an amateur's work. For those who missed it up top section 5 would be a plate covering the three rubber holes leading into the cable management section. If you paint it the color you want I think it can really prove to add some nice aesthetics to the build. Anyways, section three and four gonna be coming up today or tomorrow depending if I feel like writing the entire thing today. Also feel free to ask anything about the build! I will try to answer it as professionally and fast as I can! Cheers!

Hello, friends! As the topic states, i've been watching all the reviews and unboxings, I have been considering my build and I feel like my head is going to explode because I cannot decide on a case. At this point, it has come down to the NZXT H440 or the Corsair 750D (probably the airflow edition). I am having such a hard time deciding because they are all great cases and my issues between them all are so small its just impossible for me to choose. So for the love of science, would someone, or all of you, just tell me what to do. My issues with the 750D: Can't remove the 5.25 bays. redundancy annoys me. No fan filters on the bottom after you remove the drive bays. (I will be using the SSD mounts in the back) It's dated. Issues with the H440: I'd like a bigger window. Possible airflow issues? I don't love the PSU shroud. It's smaller than the 750D. This is going to be the first computer i've ever built, it will be for gaming. Due to money constraints it won't happen straight away but ultimately I want a machine thats going to be able to run 2016 games at 4k or across 3 1440p monitors. A tall order, I know, but it will happen eventually. Point is - expandability. As this is going to be my first build it's going to be a bit of a learning experience and i'm not adverse to being punished for bad cable management in the 750D which is why I don't love the PSU shroud in the H440. That and also I think EVGA's PSUs look kind cool. Another Question I have for you all: Radiators. I will be getting one of EK's AIO CPU liquid coolers, 240 or 360, depending on what you lovelies tell me here. Front mounted radiators: the general consensus (from what i've read) seems to be that they are a bad thing, because why would you want to push that hot air generated by the CPU back into the computer. My limited logic however says that same argument could be made the other way, why cool your CPU with the hot air from your PC? Further more, wouldn't you be better served cooling the CPU with dat phresh room temp air? The reason I want to go front mounted is because EK's radiators are thick and i'd be able to run a push/pull configuration in a 750D with a 240mm rad, and I think (H440 owners pleas confirm this for me, I know you'd be able to do it, but would there be GPU length issues?) a 360 in the front of the H440 in push/pull config. Also for the 750D owners; can you have a rad in the front and still get both fans in the bottom where the drive cages would go? A lot of you will ask if I want to air or liquid cool, as stated, 50/50. I'll be liquid cooling the CPU initially, and would love at some point to expand and liquid cool my GPU but being that this is my first build, i'm keeping it relatively simple. I'm open to everyone suggesting cases other than these two! I just love how clean these cases are. Thanks guys! Can't wait to hear back. Buying my case next week and this decision has been driving me insane.

Hey just a simple question of whether you can swap the corsair 750d AF editions front panel with the front panel of a normal 750d? I was thinking of getting an AF edition but on amazon the price is too high where as the normal 750d seems to be alot less (AF is $150 where the normal is like $95) thanks

Hi everyone. So recently I was painting my 750d front panel, but when I tried to put it back on only one clip went in completely. As in one snaps into its place while the other remains in the "unlocked" position. My question is if anyone can help diagnose this.

Will the 360/240mm water cooler fit in the corsair 750d case without interfering with the motherboard? The mobo is the evga z97 classified.

Hi all, Currently in build stages of my new rig. I have a Corsair Obsidian 750D at current which i have changed all ot the internal fans to either AF or SP Corsair 140mm fans with White LEDs in. 2x in front, 2x on roof, 1x on rear. the colour scheme for my hardware is somewhat Red and black on a Asus X99 Sabretooth board with Red Corsair Neutron drives. Could i get away with fitting 2x Red 120mm AF corsair fans in the base of the case and have a slight red upglow without upsetting the balance of the white lights do you think? Any advice on this would be massively greatful as im not far off finished with the build otherwise!

Hey guys! I'm finally building my dream pc. I just got my case (Corsair 750) and I'm having trouble trying to figure out an optimal cooling setup as far as intake/exhaust location as well as radiator choice. This will be the hardware being cooled: intel 5930k 6-core processor and two asus poseidon gtx980 ti's. I do plan on overclocking to an extent For those unaware, these are the case fan mount locations: Front: 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm Bottom: 2x 120mm NOTE-I am using a ax1200i psu, I can only fit fans here NOT a radiator Top: 2x 140mm or 3x 120mm NOTE- 3x 120mm (360mm rad) may obstruct one of the optical drive slots with a thicker radiator, I would like to avoid this if possible) Rear: 1x 140mm I have decided on using XSPC radiators (EX or RX series depending on thickness suggestion from you guys) along with Corsair SP series fans (quiet edition if using 120mm) and AF series where there is no rad. The current setup I'm thinking of doing is as follows: Front: 280mm radiator INTAKE Bottom: 2x 120mm fans INTAKE Top: 280mm radiator EXHAUST Rear: 140mm radiator EXHAUST I would like for this to be a quiet build with positive case pressure. I have included a basic picture of the setup I have mentioned. Should anything be changed? Top to intake instead of exhaust? Is the exhaust 140mm radiator impractical, I don't mind the extra money for it if it will indeed help at all? Does anyone have this case and knows if a 360mm on the top will really obstruct the top optical drive? This is my first liquid cooling build and am open to lots of advice Key for the picture: pump and res are green, rads are blue, gpu's orange, cpu red, bottom fans purple

To all you 750D owners out there! Does anyone know a good way to mod a 750D to have a basement like the NZXT H440 ? I would love to create my own basement so i can hide my powersupply and that ugly HDD cage/slug. If anyone wanna give me pointers or even tips on how to create a basement, itwould be greatly appreciated!

Hey Guys! I need some more help as a continuation of my previous topic. See Here: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/478672-corsair-750d-watercooling-setup/ I'm putting a 360mm rad up top, and a 240mm up front. Is there any possible way to fit another 240mm on the bottom WITH a Corsair AX1200i psu? Is there any other solution to add a third radiator to this case with this monster of a psu? Here are the system specs(build in progress): Intel i7 5930K (will be overclocked) Nvidia 980ti's in 2-way sli (will also be overclocked :wacko:)​ So lots of heat here ^^^ Corsair Dominator Platinum ram 32GB(8x4GB) or 64GB(8x8GB kit) and some Samsung SSD's for storage. So I just want to be able to cool those two hot spots (my CPU and GPU's) as much as humanly possible in order to overclock while keeping the temps as low as possible. In my previous thread, thanks to the help of everyone ,​ I decided to fit a thinner 360 on the top (30-45mm depending on space in the end build) and a thicker 240 up front (45-60mm). I know I could fit another 240 on the bottom if I go with a smaller psu like the AX860i, but I'm afraid with overclocking, that I may be pushing it a little with the two 980ti's and the 5930k.

Heya guys, After some consideration i purchased the Noctua DH-15 to put into my 750D. Below is a plan i made. i would like your opinions on this designed flow. If you have a better option, i am very much open for suggestions. I just want to get the most out of this case and this specific cooler. My build: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/dragonelf37/saved/#view=TZhNnQ PSU: RM1000 CPU: i5 4690k GPU: XFX 290x Double Disperation MOBO: GB-D3H Z97 RAM: 16GB Mish mash of AData and kingston sticks ( replaced at next local sale ) Case: Corsair 750D SSD: Samsung 240 Evo 250GB HDD: 2x Barracude 1TB

Heya pps, My old AIO just broke down and i was thinking on getting a H110GTX from corsair. I also just purchased a Corsair 750D case. So in my hype i made a cooling plan just for the heck of it. The Orange arrows is the planned fan direction. So will this help the cooling performance by much? I was also looking into the DH-15 from noctua. But not sure what the performance difference will be when used at its full potential My actual build: PSU: RM1000 CPU: i5 4690k GPU: XFX 290x MOBO: GB-D3H Z97 RAM: 16GB Mish mash of AData and kingston sticks ( replaced at next local sale ) Case: Corsair 750D SSD: Samsung 240 Evo 250GB HDD: 2x Barracude 1TB

Hey guys, As title suggests, looking for opinion on choosing between these two cases. Primary concerns are cable management & cooling, less concerned about hot swapping components. Let me know what you all think is a better choice. Thanks all!

Hello Everyone, After extensive research, I'm about to start my build, and the last thing to decide is the case: Corsair 750D or Fractal Define R5 windowed (both in black). If they were both the same price, which one would you choose? Specs: -5930K -Asus X99 Deluxe 3.1 -Titan X in 2-way SLI -Corsair Dominator Platinum -Kraken X61 -AX1500i PSU -NO HDD -Samsung 850 PRO 512GB x 2 in Raid0 -1 x multi ODD unit As I see it: 750d: better airflow, easier to fit all my build into, Define R5: better acoustic level, Thanks for your votes and comments!

Hey! I'm building a watercooled system in the 750D and will mount a 420mm rad in the roof. How thick can it be, with one set of Noctua fans (with rubbergromits), to NOT touch a normal ATX Motherboard?

Hi, I need some help choosing a case! What I need is ideally something portable(ish) (To be moved only every few months) that looks sleek and simple like the 750D and also ideally has a side window. I am aware of the 380T and other small form factor cases, however I really don't want something that looks like diving equipment. I would love some help/ideas/opinions/input! Thanks, Tor

Hello everyone, I'm planning on doing my first build. I already picked out most of my components but I'd like a few headers from the more experienced(you people). Also, as it is my first build and I also want this PC to be self-sustainable, I don't think I want to do any water cooling(Apart for liquid CPU cooling).: CPU: Intel 5960X GPU(s): 2x Nvidia Titan X (Use with EVGA Pro SLI bridge or Asus Nvidia 120mm SLI connector(hard vs. soft)?) RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000Mhz (Are the Vengeance LPX any better in any way?) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX (Or should I go with H110i GT or just H100i?) Fans: Corsair SP120(s) and AF120(s) (should I do High Performance or Quiet Edition? Are other fans significantly better?) OS: Windows 8.1 (Should I do pro? Is it much better?) Storage: 2x Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD (I'll add more in future.) Power Supply: Corsair 1500i (Or should I go down to 1200i?) Keyboard: Razer Dealthstalker Ultimate Gaming Keyboard Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Chroma Monitor: Acer XB280HK(4K) (And possibly 3 x Asus PG278Q ROG, but I'll duplicate this build for that.) Optical Drive: LG BH16NS40(16x Blu-Ray) (Is Blu-Ray overkill?) RAM Cooler: Corsair Dominator Airflow Platinum LED Memory Fan (Do I even need this?) Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme E-ATX Webcam: Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920 5.25 Drives: I'm looking to put more USB 3.0s in but also a nice fan controller to control the fans of either the 900D or 750D. Case: Finally, the case. I can't decide whether to get the Corsair 900D or 750D? I am planning to expand over time and make this build future-proof, so a little help from more experieced people would be nice. This will always be airflow cooled. Thanks for all your input in advance,

I was planning my loop and I couldn't figured how to drain efficiently. My reservoir is hidden, so I'm thinking of just added some clear tubing with a fill port on the end. I'm going to get the EK D5 X-RE​S Top 100 ​w/ D5 Vari​o Pump , so I'm wondering what fitting+port I'm going to need (Really confused about this.)

On the product page by Corsair, it says that only a 360mm rad can be mounted in the roof. BUT there are 3x140mm holes available. So is it possible to remove the optical-drive-bays in the 750D, to then mount a 420mm rad? The rad i chose: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm I would like to hear your answers!

So, I have been trying to decide if I need fan cable extensions in a 750D to reach an NZXT sentry 3? It looks like the Sentry 3 has some type of cable extension on it but I don't know.... The setup is going to be all 140mm cougar vortexes, one in the rear exhaust, two in the top and two in the front.

I'm going to be going to Uni later this year so I'm going to be building a new computer once I get there and I've decided on the Corsair 750D as my case. However, this is my first time building a computer and I don't understand how to get the best airflow in my case. This is what I have in mind at the moment: However I've been told it may be more efficient to have my H100i act as an exhaust and to add another 120mm fan with a dust filter (As an intake) to the bottom of the case. Furthermore, would it be worth upgrading my front intake fans and my back exhaust fan to something else other than the included fans? I'm going to have 1 drive bay installed so I'd like to get the best airflow possible. Also, this is my computer build if you need it for any information regarding airflow: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor (£304.98 @ Aria PC) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£90.11 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: MSI X99S GAMING 9 ACK EATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard (£309.98 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£145.36 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£159.98 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£79.14 @ Aria PC) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£79.14 @ Aria PC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (£286.74 @ Aria PC) Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case (£119.98 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£101.98 @ Dabs) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 PWM 120mm Fan (£14.48 @ CCL Computers) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 PWM 120mm Fan (£14.48 @ CCL Computers) Total: £1706.35 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-15 12:44 BST+0100 EDIT: Also could someone tell me if it would be possible to hook up every fan in my system to the Corsair Link software?

Hi, I was wondering if any of you have had any experience with mounting a EK-XRES D5 Pump/res combo (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-100-d5-vario-incl-pump) in an Obsidian 750D case. I was planning on mounting it on the motherboard tray where the rubber grommets are using the included EK-UNI holder. But after some measurement, I've realized that the existing holes are not far apart enough and I don't have an electric drill to drill an additional hole. I was thinking about using either one of this: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-pump-holder-120mm-fan https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-50-70 The water cooling setup will be a front 280 and top 360 rad both 45mm thick. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all, I just created this account to seek help from the LTT community about a radiator issue for which I'm having trouble finding any proper information. This is my first post so please excuse any forum faux pas. I found a couple of older threads related to this issue but couldn't find the answer I'm looking for. I'm planning a build in a Corsair 750D and I'd like to use 240mm rads in both the bottom and the front of the case. My concern is with the thickness of the bottom rad and how much clearance I'll have underneath the front 240mm rad. I know I can fit a 30mm rad with a single set of 25mm fans; I'm wondering if I'll be able to squeeze a 45mm underneath with a single set of 25mm fans (preferably w/ a 45mm rad in front as well). I realize it would be a tight fit and part of the bottom rad will be covered by the front rad, but aesthetically I like the idea of closing that gap between the rads (see photos). Judging from these photos (which look like 30mm rads) it seems like a 45mm would fit, but since I don't have the case yet, I can't measure the distance. Anyone know if I can squeeze these in? Thanks http://tinyurl.com/750D-dual240mm-00 http://tinyurl.com/750D-dual240mm-01

I have a Corsair Obsidian 750D and I'm trying get the power button to work. It clicks, but doesn't power on the system. I checked the header connections and they are all in correct order. The integrated power buttons work just fine, as do the LEDs and reset button on the case. What do you think I can do to try to fix the problem? I submitted a support ticket to Corsair, but I will have to wait until Tuesday and I currently have to run the PC without a side panel. How likely would it be that the motherboard (Asus Maximus VII Hero btw) is the issue? Seeing as all the other headers (including USB) work just fine.