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SO I know there's already a 3d games list post on here but it was started in 2013 and died after 3 posts so I thought I'd try revamp the topic. So what are your favorite games to play in 3d? mine are Crysis 3, Tomb raider and Wind waker.
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I have about a $210 total budget for a CPU, a graphics card, and a motherboard. (I already have prices set for RAM, a case, power supply, and a drive.) I am using Austin Evans' "Axion" build as a base model. Power supply: $40 RAM: $54; Single Kingston 240-pin 8GB DDR3 Case: $40; Fractal Design Core 1100 with Micro ATX case and 120mm fan Drives: 7200RPM HDD; SSD for operating system; both SATA 3 of course. I plan to dual-boot Windows 7 and Ubuntu. My usage for this computer will be mainly game development AND gaming, mostly for in-browser. I will definitely use various media, and possibly play with music production in FL, but this is not a deciding factor on what parts to get. I will use 2 displays. I am considering spending about $80-100 on a GPU, and $60-80 on a CPU. I want to make sure I have a decent amount of ports on the motherboard. I do not care whether it has USB Type-C. My three questions are: - How should I balance my CPU/GPU budget for game-development and gaming? - What motherboard would you reccomend? - What are the different types of CPUs (i.e. Intel Core vs. Pentium) and which is better for my use? Sorry for so many questions, but I tried to give as much information as I can. Thank you in advance for answering.
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Combining ultrasound and 3D-printing technologies leads to a wondrous moment for an expectant Brazilian mom.Without doubt, one of the most exciting and emotional events for parents about to have a child is getting to see their little tyke through an ultrasound. But blind moms-to-be get cheated from experiencing this marvelous moment. article http://www.cnet.com/uk/news/watch-emotional-moment-3d-printing-lets-blind-mom-to-be-see-her-unborn-son/ [youttube] [/youttube]
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im looking for a good, free, and relativly simple to use 3d modelling software do you guys have any good programs? ive been looking at sketchup but it seems they have not got a free software anymore . and i am not looking for any "30 day free trial" shit programs. and a download link would be nice.
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Does anyone know of a Free modelling software? Yes?, please reply.
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For Pre-Order We get the Bonus Cash for Online Multiplayer So have a little dizzy , how about u all how to use that (CASH) For me Straight buy a Sport Car (Zentorno) or Buy a Big house for some Heist that required and play Heist earn money way to get Cash fast My Friend say Some 1Million Cash Heist required a big house is that TRUE? LOLLOL
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I'm building a midrange pc which I will be using for light 3D modelling , image editing, programming and gta5. Being a visual thinker and having a bit too much spare time I made this graph of components I plan on buying but I want to be sure I'm getting the most bang for my buck. This is my first time building a PC and I'm not sure if I got all the parts I sould've. I did quite a bit of research to build this but as I said I'm no experts so any advice would be appreciated. I'm currently on a $570 strict budget but I will get more money later to further upgrade as seen in the image. List of components: MB: Asrock H81M-VG4 R2.0 $52.46 CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.20GHz $227.98 PSU: Corsair VS550 PSU, 550 Watt $68.39 RAM: Corsair 8GB, 1X8GB DDR3, 1600MHZ $76.34 SSD: Kingston SSD V300, 120GB $75.42 GPU(next): Saphire HD 7950 3GB DDR5(used) ~$160 GPU(current): Saphire HD 6670 1GB DDR3
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so afordable 3d printer are here https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer
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3D Printers: An Introduction to Buying and Using 3D Printers Intro This thread is to serve as a central location to information regarding 3D printers and how to use them. The reason is that there is no central, detailed, location that thoroughly explains what a 3D printer is, how to pick one, what too look for when buying, how to operate, and achieve a successful print. I will be going through every facet of 3D printing including what is a 3D printer, to completing your first big print. This page may be routinely update periodically as new information arises. Every bit of information is my own thought from my own personal experience. If I get something wrong just pm and ill make corrections. Let us begin on our journey through the world of 3D printing. What is a 3D Printer? You must be interested in 3D printing if you have made it to this paragraph. Some of you may have heard about it, how it can make tools, or you may have even seen one, but what exactly is 3D printing? 3D Printing is defined as: a process for making physical objects from three-dimensional digital model, typically by laying down many successive layers of a material until the desired model is constructed. 3D printing is revolutionizing the way R&D is done. It took weeks to prototype new products and was often very expensive. Now, companies can produce prototypes in just a few hours. In its basic form, 3D printers are a robotic machine that is comprised of servo motors and an extruder. These two tools used in unison are what product the product. But what is the product made of exactly? What is Filament? 3D printers use a variety of filament. The two primary filaments are made of PLA or ABS. PLA is polylactic acid or polylactide. It is a biodegradable thermoplastic derived from resources such as corn starch, roots, or sugar cane. This is why some people say that during printing, PLA gives off a bit of a sweet aroma. The PLA is extruded into a thin line called filament that is wound on a spool for easy transport and unwinding. The other major filament is made of ABS, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. It is a thermoplastic polymer that is often used in the production of automotive parts, as well as everyone's favorite, Legos. Other materials include PET, Nylon, and PVA. PLA and ABS are the two primary and often suffice for personal project. The other material is more often used for special products where a desired specific outcome is necessary. What is The Best Printer to Buy? What is the best printer to buy? This is a complicated question that is often asked by people who want to take a dive into 3D printing but have no clue where to start. First off, no 3D printer is the right printer. Every printer has its pros and cons and not a single printer will be able to meet every single one of your unknown needs. I will go into detail a little bit later about the problems associated with 3D printing and how to rectify these problems. There will be overlapping information as pros and cons and problems and solutions also aid in the what makes a good printer and how to improve prints, which will be discussed later on. I will cover fundamental necessary parts that make or break your experience with 3D printing. The first thing to determine when buying a printer is: what is your budget. Budget is the primary factor of choosing a printer. At the time of writing this you can buy a $300 HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, or a MakerBot Replicator for about $3,000. The reason this is the major factor is because the $300 printer does not come with all the bells and whilst that a $3000 printer does. It is the equivalent to buying a 4-wheeler vs range rover. Both will get you up the mountain but the journey is what makes the difference. The second thing to determine is print area size. It typically cost the same weather you have 100x100x100mm print area or a 1000x1000x1000mm print area. However, larger print areas require more fine tuning to ensure level print surface. The choice really comes down to how much space do you have. The third factor is the XYZ axis movements. While this does not seem like a major factor, it very much is. The best printer's print bed either move in the Z axis or do not move at all. You maybe asking why is this. If the print bed moved in the X or Y axis, you risk your print breaking off of falling over due to the sudden and quick movements of the print bed. This can be best illustrated with a skateboard. A skateboard does not have a motor or brakes. The wheels move frictionlessly over the ground. Now say you are standing on a motionless skateboard and someone comes along and pushes the board with their foot. simple physics says that you head is going to stay in the same spot while the board pulls your feet out from under your body. The motion will be transferred upward toward your head until the forces equalize. Unfortunately your feet aren't attached and your head hits the ground with a thud. The same thing happens when the print bed moves in the X and Y axis. This is generally not an issue if you are printing slow or the product is not very tall with a lot of little details. The fourth factor is a heated bed. The heated bed is a near essential piece. First, I am going to cover the results of printing without a heated bed. When you print without a heated bed you need to use some sort of material in between the raw print bed and the product. Most people have found the blue painters tape works best as the filament will stick decent to the tape and the tape can be pulled up without leaving sticky residue behind. Plus painters tape can be reused a few times before needed to be replaced. When buying painters tape, the wider the tape, the better the results. Because the filament is a thermoplastic it means that it is heated up to a melted state and quickly cooled which causes it to harden in place. but because the outside of the new layer cools quicker on the outside than the inside touching the previous layer you develop some warping. The force of the warping increases with each layer and can force the first layer to either detach from the tape or peal the the tape up. both with will result in a print breaking off or failing entirely. This is where the heated bed come in. You do not need to use tape as the heated bed is an ideal surface for prints plus it keeps the first few layer warm enough to avoid this warping and allows the first layer to maintain a sticky state to ensure that it does not peel up. The fifth factor is the machine itself. There are minimalistic printers that only consist of the axis and the motherboard to run the machine. There are some that are an enclosure that also acts as the support for the axis. The best is one with an enclosure. The downside to an enclosure is that you cannot fix a print that is about to fail. The advantages of the enclosure is that prints have better results. results improve because the enclosure created a warm or hot environment which keeps the entire print warm and sticky which means less warping or a great chance of success. By now you must be asking me, “Which printer has these features as is affordable?” Well, the Printer market has been receiving new printers every year and each one is a little different in how things operate. What I have just covered are some of the most important feature in a printer. The rest I would classify as cosmetic matters such as nozzle size, lcd with buttons, or remote connections like using an sd card. If you want a good 3D printer that will make perfect prints I would suggest going for a more high end that includes all the major factors I have listed. You Just Bought Your First Printer so you have just bought your first printer; now what. First find a good location for your printer. because printers have fast moving parts you’ll want a desk that is solid. Then crack open the instructions that came with your printer on how to set it up. If the instructions are anything like the one that came with mine it will be less intuitive than peeling an orange. Therefore, I will cover some basic information about setting up for your first print. Setting Up Your Printer Setting up for your first print can seem a little daunting. You are thrown a wealthy of knowledge that for the most part, you probably will never need. Most printers come pre assembled and ready to print out of the box. Something may shift during shipping as its likely you may need to calibrate your computer to work correctly with the printer. I will get into that in the next paragraph. You have your printer out, you have removed all the tiedown zipties, tape, and other obstructions that are used to hold the printhead in place during shipping. You plug in your printer using the provided power cable. At this time there should be an indicator light that tells you the machine is up and running properly. Next you will want to locate your filament. Some printers require proprietary spools of filament and some will use any type of filament on a generic spool. Some printers have a dedicated spool holder to place your spool onto, other may have a chamber to put your spool into. Take the end of the filament and run the end into the motor that will draw the filament from the spool and send it into the extruder. Thats it, you have done the physical portion of setting up for your first print. we will now move on to connecting to the print with your computer. Programming Your Printer The next thing to do is to connect your computer to your printer. Your printer will most like ask you to download and install Cura. I have used Cura and it's a simple program to use. When you load up cura for the first time you will be prompted to select your printer from the list. Cura is open source and will most likely have your printer. This printer selection will preload Cura with the necessary setting for your printer. Cura come with a leveling program and can walk you through the bed leveling process or you can do it manually. some print beds do not have a leveling function and rely on a auto level script to tell the printer what is level. This I have found is a very terrible function and should not be used. problems associated with this is potentially running the print head into the bed on one end while being too high on the other. This is a bit exaggerated but I have seen it happen. Unless your printer specifically say YOU NEED TO LEVEL YOUR PRINT BED, your print bed is probably already level and ready to use and DO NOT TRY TO RELEVEL YOUR PRINT BED. I will explain why in the next paragraph. Starting Your First Print You are now ready to start your first print. Typically the instructions will direct you to a 3x3x0.5cm cube. It is a basic print that can test to see if your printer is set up correctly. Cura is a slicing program that takes the .stl file and renders code for the printer to use. cura has alot of settings you can adjust but all you need to pay attention to at the moment is whats on the front page of cura. Select Expert and select Switch to Full Settings. This allows you to make fine adjustments to how your print will be have. youll need to set the temperature of the print head to the recommended temperature for you filament, typically this is 110c. Your bed temp will be about half of the print head temp but milage may vary and you will need to find out what works for you. If you hold your mouse over the settings in Cura it will give you information about what it does and what the recommended settings should be and I would suggest leaving it there until after your first print. Now, select the print button and you will see a window pop up with X and Y axis and some other buttons and a terminal box. You want to select the home button for the X, Y, and Z, axis. The print head should be about the thickness of a piece a paper above the print bed. If it’s not do not worry you can make adjustments later. Click in the terminal box and type our M501. This command will tell you the settings for the printer. You will see at the bottom bed offset. This number you will need to change to get the print head the right distance away from the print bed. Z axis will be set to zero and will most likely be too high. Start by lowering the Z axis by 0.2 mm at a time using the command M212 Z-0.2. If the head is still to high repeat the previous step and type in M212 Z-0.4. The print head will be set 0.4 mm below Z original home of 0.0. To save this setting type in the command M500. you can verify the changes have been save by typing in M501 again to show your printer settings. This will be time consuming if you have to move a large distance. By large i mean up to 3mm. once the cube comes out looking nice you are ready to print your next product. typically this will be a fan shroud. The fan shroud is nice to have because as the printer start to print over the edge of the previous layer. The fan will quickly cool the new layer and reduce the edges from curling up. Congratulations you have finished your first print and are now on a journey to printing awesome things. Improving Your Prints Some products will often having your printing at angles greater than 45 degrees. typically printers can do a little more than 45 but it gets iffy. You can improve prints with overhangs by selecting the scaffolding selection. Scaffolding lets you print in the air. scaffolding is typically offset from the print by less than 1 mm such that its easy to remove when the print is finished. the scaffolding might become attached to the product but using a set of needle nose plyers or your fingers to easily tear it away from the product. If the product is have bad warping you may need to increase the bed temperature. Like wise if you have a printer with an enclosure the print bed will raise the ambient temperature inside the enclosure which will reduce warping as well. Setting the fan speed to max has never cause problems and is always good to have running. Some printers are designed with speed in mind and can travel at about 150mm/s. Running a printer with speed set to high can cause prints to become weak or fail in the process. Moreover, running a print too slow can cause prints to have a lot of skin tags to appear as filament is still being extruded from the print head even if the head is move over open space to print in a different area. I have found my printer prints well at about 50mm/s. because it is not effective to print a solid plastic object, programs will allow you to select the density inside the product. 15% is a good density for most prints. Cura has a visual section that allows you to see how a print will happen layer by layer as well as were the infill material will be lade. I found that if you have a layer that will be printed directly onto the infill material and is not touching the border you will to raise the density to ensure more infill material is touching the new layer. Otherwise you will be printing in mid air with no scaffolding support and this will leave a big hole in your product. If the print is still pealing up after all that I would suggest investing in a product called PEI. Polyetherimide, known as PEI, seems to be the best bed you can buy. Reports of users who use it say that prints are near impossible to remove. This means that you wont have to worry about your print pealing up. The solution to removing prints usually involve sticking the bed and the print into the fridge or freeze and using thermodynamics to cause the print to break free from the bed. If you are using this with a heated bed a thicker piece of PEI will work better. I have heard that PLA will print to pei just fine without heating the bed. ABS requires a heated bed either way. a 12x12x1/4” sheet will cost you about $100. For more information on this product clicker HERE. Completing Your First Print You calibrated your printer, you have printed your first print, and you just completed your first custom product; now what? You can begin tweaking and adjusting the advanced settings to more fine tune your prints for the perfect quality. your can increase in speed, increase the resolution, and improve the quality. There is a bucket load of other settings you can change but I will not go into detail about those as they vary based on the product you are printing. Program to Design Your Own Products You will most likely be printing other peoples 3D models for a while before you come across the idea that you want to make your own 3D model and print it for your needs. There is an abundance of 3D modeling programs. Everything from high end enterprise grade software to freeware offered by some printing companies. I am only going to touch on the products I have used. First up is Sketchup. Sketchup was previously owned by Google and was later bought by another company. It still has a free version and can do most basic modeling. However, sketchup does not work well with 3D printers and often pieces of the model do not get rendered in Cura. this is why Sketchup should not be used. Next is Autocad's 123D Design. It is a basic modeling tool designed for 3D printing. It has very limited functionality but if you can stretch your brain you can create nearly anything. I have used it to make a few things like my headphone holder for my desk. Finally you can use solidworks to create 3D models. solidworks is an enterprise grade software and as such is not free. However, if you really enjoy 3D modeling and are rather good at it, solidworks might be the program for you. Sharing Your Products With Others If you are still curious about where to find 3D models to download there are a few sites on the internet that allow a user to upload and share to 3D models with the community. Thingiverse.com is hosted by makerbot. The library is easy to navigate and they often have some awesome new design picked by a staff member to show off to the community. They also hold competitions for 3D modeling and you get the opportunity to find some swag. Other sites include: pinshape.com, youmagine.com, and myminifactory.com. There are other sites but these are the ones I am a bit more familiar with. Also, there is a thread on LTT for 3D model sharing linked here (insert link). Issues of 3D Printers The biggest issues with 3D printing is that the products printed cannot be made for load bearing regardless of design. The layers do not fuse together and as a result will break in between layers if excessive force is applied. This is why you only see little toys and figures and parts for drones being made. Warping is the next big issue. I have covered ways to reduce warping in the previous sections. I have not solved this myself personally but I have only heard rumors as to what to do to fix it. My findings regarding this are things that i have done myself or have ruled as highly worth trying. Conclusion I am overly fascinated by 3D printers and cant wait for the near future when the function becomes perfected. With there being no standard for 3D printing, it has been left up to the community to drive the in home printer to new heights. If you can any questions or would like to know more information about techniques I am happy to help. Likewise, if you know of any techniques or have any suggestions, feel free to leave a post. If you feel I need to make a correction please PM and Ill make the changes as soon as I can. I dont know everything, only what I have experienced so I may get something wrong. I simply want to help everyone make the best prints.
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Do you know a program to record 3D Vision Stereo 3D? Yes I know about Fraps, but not only it takes 1Gb for 12 seconds, but it doesn't work with a ton of games I want to capture (Dirt Rally, Mirror's Edge, War Thunder...). I tested many, OBS, D3Dgear, Bandicam without success (they record in 2D). edit: I read in a YT video's description that some games have "in-engine stereoscopic rendering" hence can't be recorded with fraps... whatever that means.
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Hello , so i started overclocking and i was using Unigine Heaven or however it is called , but i thought i doesnt like stress it enough ( even though i had like 10 fps ) so i downloaded free 3DMark , and started doing some tests , and then i turned on "Sky Diver" test , and saw a lot of missing textures , so i started downgrading clocks , but nothing helped , i set them to even default clocks , still i have missing textures !! I have been using my gpu for about 2 years now ! why is it doing that ?! Please help ! GPU : MSI Radeon HD 6670 V2 2gb dd3 CPU : I7 870 3.4 ghz Here is a link to a video showing that : watch in 1080p !!!!! P.S - I know that i need better GPU for that CPU , but i can't afford it now
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Does anyon have some recommendations of budget 3d printers below £600?
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Hello Currently i have a 2 year old rig that I use for 3D rendering, editing, compositing and gaming. Now I am graduated and want to invest in a better pc mainly for 3D stuff, comp and a little bit of gaming (not the newest heavy games). My question now is should I upgrade my 2year old rig or build a complete new one? specs current rig: http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/47whNG PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€349.43 @ Home of Hardware DE) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 412S 52.6 CFM CPU Cooler (€33.90 @ Amazon Deutschland) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H 1.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€53.67 @ Amazon Deutschland) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€53.67 @ Amazon Deutschland) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case (€94.90 @ Caseking) Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€66.90 @ Caseking) Total: €652.47 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-12 19:43 CEST+0200 I was thinking about upgrading: samsung 850 ssd (pro or evo dunno) gtx 980 ti processor still good enough or will a new one improve the speed a lot? Software i mainly use: autodesk Maya (mental ray, renderman), zbrush, blackmagic fusion, adobe products So should I keep this current rig and upgrade it or just sell the whole pc and build a new one? I don't realy have a certain budget I just don't want to pay a lot for little improvement. Any advice is much appreciated!
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Hi, I am currently looking into buying a new graphics card for my rig and am not sure which one to get. I mainly use the rig for gaming but I also do some 3D modelling and video editing. I would be happy if someone could provide me with some guidance as to which will be most suitable for my use. The contestants are: R9 290X Power Color reference cooler - 2300 CNY, 378 USD R9 290X XFX custom cooler - 2500 CNY, 410 USD GTX 970 Gigabyte G1 Gaming - 2700 CNY, 443 USD GTX 970 Gigabyte Wind Force - 2500 CNY, 410 USD R9 390 XFX custom cooler - 2700 CNY, 443 USD Also, does anybody have any experience with water cooling any of those cards? Thanks from China Jakob
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Currently i have a gtx 760 and i was thinking about upgrading my rig. (http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/385429-improving-current-rig-or-build-a-new-one-workstation/) Which gpu should i look for? (currently thinking about the gtx 980 ti) Software i mainly use: autodesk Maya (mental ray, renderman), zbrush, blackmagic fusion, adobe products Is it worth spending a lot on a new gpu and will the general speed increase?
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Now i currently have Gtx 960 Gigabyte G1 gaming edition, and i love it, it works for the amount of gaming I do. However I do a fair bit of Rendering videos and 3D modeling/Rendering. I happened across a Older Quadro 3800 fx on craigslist and it just kind of got me wondering. Not that I am gonna run out and buy one but i can get one off of amazon for like 50-100 dollars. I guess my question is what would the specs and performance look like compared to the Gtx, I know it has less vRam but i cant really find much on them? any help or information would be appreciated!
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I'm watching Luke's stream right now and I just started thinking to myself about 3D printing and found that the printers really aren't ridiculously unaffordable for what they do. Hence, I wanted to know if anyone knew the sort of go-to software people mostly use for 3D printing? Specifically, I would like to know which program people would be most likely to use in a job??? I'm not that interested in the actual printing right now, but rather in the software and 3d modeling that goes into these things; especially since my future career will entail some soft of computer and software engineering.
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Hi all, I am planning to buy a 144hz monitor I saw the BenQ XL2411Z which says it comes with nVIDIA 3D Vision 2 ready, my question is, does the nVidia 3D vision 2 kit works for 3D movies? or just games? I want to know if I will be able to watch 3D movies in this monitor with the nVIDIA 3D vision kit, Thanks!
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Hi, I'm looking to buy a 3D printer for personal use. I have some experience in using one, but zero experience in buying one. I'm currently looking at an Asterid 2000 from Plastic Scribbler for $500. It uses 1.75mm non-proprietary PLA filaments and has a build volume of 8x8x9.5 inch. Can anyone suggest a better 3D printer for a similar price? I would like to keep within this price range but would not mind a more expensive printer if additional features justify the cost. some criteria on the printer: must use non-proprietry filament preferably uses standard 1.75mm filaments preferably able to use more than one kind of filament decent build volume also please list any necessary additional software (besides a CAD program) with your printer recommendation. Thank you!!
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I am looking to buy a monitor capable of 3D gaming and have been completely confused. 1) What is the difference between a normal 3D TV/monitor and NVIDIA's 3D Vision? 2) Why would (NVIDIA) 3D glasses need charging and could I use regular glasses from the cinema on a 3D vision monitor? 3) Are all 144Hz monitors capable of 3D gaming if all they need to do is alternate between 2 halves to produce 60Hz?
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I just finished my Headphone Design which I have submitted! Please tell me what you think! Also make sure to up vote it if you like it.
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I have a 3d printer and often have questions, so I go to forms but LTT form is my favorite form because its so active. I would like to know why isn't there a 3d printing page or if they could add one in the future. As Linus said it will be the future. so why not add a subform page? There is a subform page for every other respect tech.
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I need to buy a BIKE like mountain bike, Fast and it climb the hill with easy. Any Name for the bike? I already buy 2 bike similar like mountain bike but cant climb the hill
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Hi Guys, Working on my first build. Got tired of waiting on my renders so decided to build a workhorse that could handle rendering with Vray and compositing in Photoshop better then my current Dell workstation. The files that I work with are usually 8K renders composited as 16 bit images in Photoshop. Files tend to get huge - up to 4-5Gb psb's Here is the build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NC3T99 The only issue that I had was that the radiator of the first cooler that I tried (Corsair H105) was too high(38mm) and didn't fit between the sink of the motherboard and the case. The H100i radiator was 27mm high and fit very nice with the fans on top of the case pulling air through the radiator. So. Here's the troubleshooting part. it doesn't boot up I didn't hear the BIOS POST beep and my monitor stays asleep. I tried booting w/o the graphics card and then removing all the DIMM's with the same result. The only lights that come on on the mobo are the ON button and the Reset button. The number display stays at 00. Corsair cooler is working, all the fans are working. Stumped, no idea how to proceed. Is it the motherboard? DOA? Any help is greatly appreciated..
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