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Hey guys it's me again, and this time I got a really big problem. My R9 290X Matrix from Asus which I bought 1 1/2 years ago just died and I dont know why. It was overclocked to 1100Mhz but never ran hotter than 70°C. It worked perfectly without any problems for weeks, but yesterday when I decided to play a round Just Cause 3 my PC crashed without a reason. I just restarted it because and saw a blue "shadow" on a part of my screen from boot on. Windows only booted in safe mode until i removed the graphics card drivers. When I tried to install new / old ones the screens went black and I had to press the power button on my PC. I also tried to get the graphics card in safe mode with the 2nd bios, nothing helped. Is there something I can do to fix it or do I have to buy a new card? Thanks in advance for your answers / help
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Hi guys, i currently have a i5 4670 non k, 16gb of ram and a R9 290x, and was wondering If the upgrade of the GPU was worth It, since i only have money to up that. I know there Will be a bit of bottleneckling in cpu headed games, but Will still do much better than the 290x, that is a Very old card? I intend to play on 1080p and want to never get under 60 FPS in games like pubg and cod BO4 and never under 144 on CS(only game i Care to use my Full monitor potential)
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Hey everyone, I just bought a Gigabyte R9 290x 4gb. My question is What other cards is it compatible with? Can it be any 4gb 290x?
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My 290x will not post , no matter which pcie slot / psu i use . My r9 290 however , does post in my current setup just fine , which leads me to believe something on the card is dead. A few days ago , my gpu was running hot ( not out of spec though , 90C ) , and i smelled burning electronics , so i immediately shut off the computer . I dismantled the card and cleaned it , as well as adding new paste. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary , although the pcb under the vrm looks like it has dried up ( almost delaminated , except its not ) . when plugged in , the fans spin , but the motherboard is stuck on VGA post , and i get no signal , pointing to a gpu error. I'd say the gpu is fried ,however , it stays stone cold even when powered on , while dead gpus/cpus usually heat up regardless . It almost looks to me as though the VRM is dead (in which case i can attempt to find a donor VRM off a gtx 480/580 ). Has anyone ever gotten this before ? The card is just out of warranty unfortunately.
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As the title suggests, my card is stuck on a black screen after the boot of Windows happens. I see the icon and the swirly circle of loading time, then just black. It displays my BIOS and everything just fine until Windows boots, so I’m very confused as to what to do. If I use only the integrated graphics it works fine. I reinstalled windows, I’ve reinstalled the driver for the card, still nothing. Any suggestions? my system: windows 10 i7 4790k MSI Gaming 3 z97 samsun 860 Evo R9 290x XFX or Sapphire 16gb RAM
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Hey guys who all know more about overclocking than me Today I overclocked my R9 290x Matrix to 1190Mhz @1.375Volts, it ran Unigine Heaven Benchmark for more than one hour and 3DMark Firestrike at a maximum of 73°C I didn't see any artifacts while benchmarking / stress testing, but when I try a Game like Tomb Rider for example my pc freezes and I have to restart it. But no errors appear in Rainbow 6 Siege / Anno 2070 / GTA V, does someone know why? I tried this different clocks for Tomb Raider.. 1000Mhz - 1050Mhz (stock voltage // 1250mV) : works 1060Mhz (stock voltage // 1250mV) : doesn't work 1060Mhz (1375mV) : doesn't work My System: AMD FX8320 @ 4.2Ghz / 1.3625V R9 290x Matrix ASRock 970 Performance be quiet straight power e7 700w Did i forget something important? If yes, just ask Thanks in advance for your answers
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I've been having problems with my graphics card lately. Every time I do something that's graphically intensive on my computer, that application will crash after about a minute of usage or less, depending on the application. Games like Overwatch stop and tell me that my graphics device has been lost and it will close itself. It's not just Overwatch though. It's every game with 3D graphics that I've tried, like CS:GO. I thought it was a problem with my software, so I reinstalled Windows, but that didn't fix it. Then, to make a long story short, I thought it was my graphics card, so I RMA'ed it. I got back a new card and I'm still having the same problem. Now, I think it's my power supply. I've tried disabling some of my CPU cores, under volting my RAM and unplugging all USB devices except for my keyboard and mouse. All that made Overwatch take way longer to finally crash, more like 10 minutes. I think that there's either something wrong with my PSU or it just doesn't have enough volts. I have an 550 watt XFX something and a R9 290x for my PSU and GPU respectively. I don't think it's my motherboard, because I tried a really cheap, no PCI-E power connector graphics card in the same PCI-E slot and that worked fine. What do you guys think? Thanks! TL;DR: My graphics card is acting up, games keep crashing, it doesn't happen when I use a lower power GPU, but I don't think there's anything wrong my graphics card. Power supply is and XFX 550 watt and graphics card is R9 290x.
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So there is a reference 290X on sale around my area for $150, I know I saw 290s for around 200 before the 480 launch, but is the 290X still feasible (well yes it is) but a decent investment at $150 currently? or do you guys think the price on the used market will fall even more. Performance should be slightly higher than the 480, but a lot louder and a lot hotter.
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Hi. I recently put together my very first system. My 290X requires an 8+6 pin PCIe connection to work. Thing is, my power supply came with a bunch of cables that split into two 6+2 pin connectors. I was unsure of whether I could power the GPU with one cable (that split in two), so I used two cables, and now I have two 6+2 pin connectors just dangling off to the side. It looks awful. What should I do? Is it safe using one split cable to power a graphics card? Thanks. All and any help will be appreciated.
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The build over is the parts i have. My 290x overheats easily if i try to OC it and the fans get really loud because of how hot it gets. At stock goes to 93-94 celsius and stays there. I'm looking for a new case because i want to cool my gpu properly and not go deaf at the same time. Currently i'm considering the define r5 and define s. I was wondering if someone here knew of a better alternative to those cases in the price range of the define s and r5. Optical drives dont matter.
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Hi everyone, I've had my 290x since its release back in 2014 and was wondering if there's anything better on the market atm? I don't necessarily have any problems with it, I just feel like a upgrade atm would be the best time. Also lower power consumption and lower heat overall is always a plus to me. Would the RX 480 be a good upgrade or are the newer nvidia cards really all the rage? Any input is greatly appreciated!
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Hello, Over the last month or two I have noticed how my draw distance in several games suddenly got reduced. The textures only load when I get close to them and I can see how they fade away each step I take. Other textures turn into looking like a blurred low texture surface the further away I walk. Games where I suffer this problem. GTA V, Skyrim, GTA SA (SA-MP) CS:GO That means 4 different games with 4 different game engines, which means the games are not to blame for this issue. ------------------------ What I have tried to do on my own: Turn off crossfire, Tried different Crimson settings in the control panel, Updated to different graphic drivers, Reinstalled drivers with Driver Sweep and CCleaner. Rerolled to older drivers back in 2015, Reinstalled Windows 10 Reset overclocks and remove MSI Afterburner efter reinstallation of Windows 10. Tried Radeon Pro and increase texture lod and minimap textures. ------------------------ None of these methods worked for me and I am still suffering the same issue, I really need to get some tips on how to fix this problem. I have seen others have similar problems however none provided a proper solution to the problem. Otherwise all games run well, no crashes and with proper FPS, the textures look great when they actually load in close distance. Greatful for any help, Thomas My computer: Motherboard: Asrock Extreme4 Z77 ATX | CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K 4.6 GHz | GPU: x2 Sapphire R9 290x Tri-X Crossfire | Power Supply: XFX 850 watt 80+ Bronze | Memory: Crucial BallistixSport 16GB 1600MHz | Storage: 1TB Seagate Barracuda + 840 evo SSD 250gb | Monitor: Qnix QX2710 96hz + Asus 1080p 144hz|
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Ok, so I am a college student that works during the summer doing construction. I don't make a lot so I have to make my money last. I bought two R9 290xs last summer for $160 and $180. I was new to pc gaming and did not know much, I got two reference cards and an AMD motherboard and cpu (an freaking old cpu). I will be getting an i5 6500 with MSI Krait z170 motherboard (I am going for a black and white color scheme), 8gb of ram and a 1080p 144hz 1ms monitor (I wish I could afford a 1440p). What should I do about the two jet engines that I have for GPUs? After the parts I have to buy I will be spending a little over $600. I am trying to stay under $800 since $650 is about two weeks pay and I need all the money I can save. So if I can avoid selling the GPUs that would be awesome, but if a good deal comes up on something else I will consider it (if it will save money in the long run). I already have a case, PSU, and cpu cooler. With DirectX12 here I should be able to get better performance out of my GPUs right? Thank you in advance. FYI my usual gameplay is GTA V, Battlefield Bad Company 2, Battlefield 3&4 and whatever may come up with freaking awesome deals.
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The 390X I got from an RMA card 5 months ago has started failing. Its definitely the GPU (Look at post history, lots of backstory). MSI won't RMA it because the 7970 Lightning which it was an RMA for ( a three year old card that I had to RMA twice before I got a newer replacement for failures, although they artifacted, this 390x is failing differently) exited its warranty the same month I got the 390X replacement, so my 390X is considered out of warranty pretty much the week I got it. It seems I can get a 290X for $200-220 for a reference cooler, which I would prefer so I can eventually crossfire a 2nd one and have more managed thermals, and a uniform look. Any difference between brands of reference coolers or issue crossfiring them? I know its a very hot card especially with a reference cooler but I don't care about the heat im just looking for the best price/performance while I hold off for hopefully Polaris. My PC has no integrated graphics and Im not waiting 1-3 months without my PC working. Is ebay the place to go? Whats the best place to go to get the cheapest price?
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I used to have a 270x (asus DCUII) but this one died so I RMA'd it. A few weeks later I got the same card back, "fixed". It was clearly backed and indeed after 2 months it died again in the same way. So I RMA'd it again with the request for a new one this time and they got me an 290x!! ( refurbished but hey, I am not complaining. ) But this one has issuus. It apears to be working fine untill it hits about 80C and is under 100%load. Than I get black blocks artifacts. But this only happens sometimes. Only in one furmark test, not in other ones and I got it in the water in GTA5. But on the other hand I played 1,5 hours of Witcher 3 without a problem. So the card is broken again I think (a bad refurbish ) but before I send it back and maby get a 270x again I'd like to know. Is it posably my PSU. It's a 600W Corsair CM ( I know not the best ). I also have a 8320FX CPU so that would be heavy for the PSU, but can that cause artifacts or sould I just RMA the 290x AGAIN.
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Who aged better -- Kepler or Hawaii? The two former top-end architectures from 2013 have received different treatment over the their lifespan. While Nvidia simply moved along with a new GPU architecture (Maxwell), AMD's GCN have seen much less revolutionary changes, with only iterative architectural upgrades from Tahiti to the latest HBM-powered Fiji GPUs. AMD were definitely forced to spend time with the driver optimizations instead, with some notable effects. -- TL;DR -- Source: http://www.babeltechreviews.com/nvidia-forgotten-kepler-gtx-780-ti-vs-290x-revisited/view-all/
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Alright, well for the longest time I had an issue plaguing me where the two crossfire cards inside my rig would develop artifacts when sitting idle on the Desktop. If I would bring up anything somewhat graphically intensive, let's say a web page with a Youtube video the artifacts would stop, I minimize the window and the artifacts would come up again. I could game for 5 hours without any issues as soon as I hopped to the desktop, bam, like clock work the artifacts would come back. At first I thought it was a heat issue, so I modded my case with a exhaust fan pulling the hot air from both cards, problem still persisted. So then I fired up GPUz and started to look at the frequencies of the GPU both the memory clock and the core clock. I noticed that when I open said youtube window the Core clock would throttle up from 350 to whatever was required with a maximum of 1040 Mhz. Having said this the core clock would usually remain under 500 for such tasks, but it would throttle as needed. Also I noticed that during these tasks the memory clock remained really low, @150 Mhz. I found it odd that the Core clock would throttle but the memory would not. So it looked like the memory had only two states 150 and 1250 Mhz. In the end I hex edited my BIOS and flashed it with AtiFlash in DOS, I also disabled ULPS. Although ULPS did not fix the issue and was not the root cause, I like knowing that when I hop out of a game the fans will keep spinning to further cool down my card, instead of just stopping. I don't like the idea of one card being passively cooled after it reached 80 degrees +. Here are the changes I made. I edited my bios to never drop the Memory clock, so the memory clock is always at 1250Mhz now. I also edited my core clocks, my core now never drops below 500 Mhz, the next step up is 840 Mhz, and then 1040 Mhz. I also changed my fan profiles and a single temp profile. Since I raised the Core clock slightly and the memory clock completely I wanted to make sure that the card was not running to hot. So I raised the fan profiles by 10% and dropped the top temperature profile by 10 degrees. The single temperature profile I was worried about and changed was the 90 Celsius/100% fan one, I changed it to 80 Celsius/100% fan speed. Then I raised the other fan speeds by 10%, so 56% went up to 66%, and 36% went up to 46%. I can't remember the exact #s I used but essentially I brought them up by 10% from the original values. With all these changes to the GPU BIOS on both cards I now have eliminated the Desktop artifacts. My idle card temps hover around <50 Celsius, ~ 3-5 degrees higher than the stock BIOS clocks, and ULPS is completely disabled. Disabling ULPS: (link)Open regedit and search (Edit - Find) for EnableUlps then change the DWORD value from 1 to 0. Ignore EnableUlps_NA this does nothing. Keep searching (pressing F3) through the registry and change every entry you find in there from 1 to 0. Once finished reboot. Editing the vga BIOS: (link) I changed the Fan and Temperature profiles with a Hex editor, I used an application called HxD. Then I used the Hawaii Bios Reader application to edit the core and clock frequencies and then used it to create a proper check sum for the BIOS. After the edits you have to flash the BIOS to each card individually. I just swapped them after each flash, left one out of the mobo while the other was being flashed. I hope this helps someone with the same issue.
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Why is there such a big difference between the 290x and the 390x i thought it was only a few changes they made, but anyways i am happy i bought the 390x Here is the benchmark : http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/call_of_duty_black_ops_iii_vga_graphics_performance_benchmark_review,7.html
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I have a Gigabyte R9 290x, and it works great when I game with no problems but after I quit the game and go back to the Windows desktop I get a lot of artifacting and after about a minute my PC will just shut off and then restart and the artifacting will reappear on the boot screen and I have to unplug my pc and then wait a few hours before it will go away. Let me know if you have any additional questions about my system or problem System: Intel Core i7 2600 ASRock Z75 Pro3 LGA1155 Motherboard Gigabyte Windforce Radeon R9 290x Thermaltake TR2 600W Power Supply 2x4GB Samsung 1333Mhz RAM 1TB Hitachi Hard Drive
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Hi guys, I've been playing a ton of Fallout 4 since it released and I noticed that there is a very audible coil whine from my card whenever I play it. It's not that loud, but it's just something that you can notice even when not paying attention to it. I've always known that my card whines whenever the frame rate of games I play exceed say 80 FPS, but I was wondering if this is something that I should worry about or no? Any input that I get is much appreciated!
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Hey ladies and gents, For all of you R9 290x gaming 4g OC owners who thought you were SOl for fitting a waterblock on this ridiculously hot card I have great news. With a rotary tool and 10 minutes I was able to customize the block to fit my card. Load temps dropped 43 degrees..... Whoa... Did I just say that?!?! YUP, LOAD TEMPS WENT FROM 87 CELCIUS TO 43 CELCIUS FULL LOAD!!!! I'll add pictures when I get back to my desktop in an hour
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so i have an 8320 over clocked sapphire 290 8 gb of ram 750watt gold psy 80 plus what do you recomand i get to replace the 290 somthing that is 4-6 gb and around 200$ to 300$ my local microcenter has a 79906 gb for 275 shold i get that?
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so anyone wana chip in and give some ideas on what to do to possibly fix this random issue backstorry , i got this card for free a year or so ago and since have upgraded to a 980ti ... well the idea was to use this as a folding card and then one day it totaly stoped working flat out. so tonight i went and plugged it back in to see if by some weird miricle is would work again and .... YES it showed up in my device list and even started to fold ! (victory , right?) well then i started to look at data .... and well thats where it all sorta went to shit example a: odd , right ? but yet it IS working example b: so my question is , anyone know what could be issue ? or possible things to try to get it to work right ? (no rma ,outa warenty ages ago lol) so well thanks in advance , cheers (and happy new year everyone , hope its a gooder)
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Hi there, -XFX FX-777A-ZNF4 Radeon HD 7000 Series; AMD; Radeon HD 7770; 1000 MHz; CrossFire; 2048 x 1536 pixels; 2560 x 1600 pixels (FX-777A-ZNF4) -Intel Core i7 i7-4790K CPU (Quad Core 4GHz, Socket H3 LGA-1150) -Asrock Z97M ANNIVERSARY MATX Motherboard Socket 1150 (Intel Z97, 4x DDR3, 4x SATA III) -HyperX FURY Series 8GB (2x 4GB) DDR3 1866MHz CL10 DIMM Memory Module Kit - Black -EVGA 500B 500W 80+ BRONZE PC Power Supply -LiteOn IHAS124-04 24x SATA Half Height Internal DVDRW Drive -Seagate Barracuda 3.5 inch 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB 6GB/S Internal SATA Drive -Fractal Design Core 1000 Series Micro ATX Case As you can probably tell, my PC is severely bottlenecked, with my GPU not being up-to-date with my CPU. I was thinking of buying an ASUS GTX 970 STRIX for Christmas, and it's around £260 here (roughly $380-$390), but my friend recently offered me an R9 290X: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00G6LDB58?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ldGCwbPTZPEJN (This is the exact model) for around £170 (roughly $250). Which one do you think I should go for? Keep in mind that my PSU is only a 500W PSU, and the card is a reference, 300W TDP card. I know that the GTX 970 is slightly better, benchmark-wise, but I'm not sure whether the price difference is good enough to go for the 290x or not. Thanks to anyone who replies!
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I have a waterblock on a 290x GPU. Is there a means of controlling a standard fan with the fan header on the 290x pcb? Any limitations?