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  1. Hello, I recently bought a used PG27AQDM. Once I set it to 240hz 1440p, the screen tears/"wiggle" from time to time on the desktop, and especially in games (starcraft 2). I tried setting it to 1080p/240hz and 1440p/120hz and I've had zero trouble, but in 1440p/240hz it "tears" and sometime the screen goes black for a couple seconds. I have an msi gtx 1080ti, 32go of ram, a i5 7500 and I use a 1.4 Display port cable. It is still under the 2 year warranty. Should I send it back or is it the GPU that is bottlenecking me ? I'm almost done with my next build using a rx 6850xt and a 13700k i7, so should it keep that monitor for the new build ? I thank you all very much in advance, Sash
  2. Hello to anyone who reads this. I need help with a zotac 1080ti amp extreme 11gb. At heavy load like furmark nothing happens the gpu pulls and does its job. But if itry to run any game on it at higher Grafics it freezes the screene at 5 minutes of gameplay at any game and it will require a full restart for the pc to function again. i already tried: swiching psu, new windows, newest driver, new mobo, new ram, new cpu current setup: r5 3600, 64gb predator ram kit(2x32), b450 tomahawk max ii, aerocool cycloon 700w, Gtx 1080ti zotac amp extreme any ideas apriciated edit: the loaded up picture i have an encryption / decryption error
  3. Build: All used parts, except for RAM Mobo - Asus B550-F Gaming CPU - Ryzen 5800X3D RAM - Kingston Fury Renegade DDR4 32gb CL16 3600mhz GPU - Zotac 1080ti AMP Extreme PSU - EVGA Supernova 850 P2 So, the issue is off and on with no really answer or fix that I can figure out. There is no overclock due to the issues I’m having although I did have the GPU overlocked when I first got it with no issues at first, until my first crash and then I removed all overclock settings. My computer will randomly crash while playing games with no rhyme or reason and in reboot will display a VGA issue on the mobo. Sometimes it’s back to back within minutes and other times it could be a few weeks in between crashes. Most of the time all I have to do is resintall the GPU and it goes away for a little bit and other times, it will reboot on its own just fine. Other times, I just leave it off for a little while and boot up and it’s fine. I don’t think it’s a temp issue as before while gaming I’ve had some monitoring software open and it showed that my GPU temps never exceeded 75C. I never had this issue before with my 1070 or 1080 on the AM4 platform or any GPU with my older Intel i7-7700K on the Asus Tuff Z270 Mark 2. I have 2 separate VGA 8pin cables going to the GPU. I haven’t tried just one as I don’t have a cable that breaks off. My mobo bios is fully up to date, everything is seated properly, all drivers and firmware with the GPU are up to date and good to go. It’s just so random that it’s been impossible to figure out why it’s happening. I’m really at a loss here and before I break and just by a new GPU I’m reaching out for help to see if anything can resolve this. My 1080ti is fine for my needs at 1080p. It’s also not possible for me to try the 1070 or 1080 anymore as I sold them because the 1080ti that I got worked perfectly for about 4 months until I upgraded from the 7700k to the 5800X3D. Even then it was good for about a month into the CPU upgrade and then it’s been off and on crashing. I just have no idea why I’m randomly crashing and it’s very frustrating how random it is. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.
  4. First the specs: System: Windows 10 Home 64bit CPU: 8700K GPU: Aorus 1080ti MOBO: Asus Strix Z370-f Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB pro xt PSU: Corsair HX750 RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 4x8 32GB 3000mhz The system is 5 years old. Recently been sitting disconnected entirely for the last 4-5 month because the previous GPU (also a 1080ti but a different one) was shorting and causing problems. I got a 'new' secondhand GPU, I saw it working myself on the system the guy I bought it from was running, nothing seemed wrong with it. The GPU is the *only* component that was changed. And I am not overclocking. The issue: Got the new GPU, plugged it in. First day, everything was working fine. The next day, I got nvlddmkm.sys BSODs. I updated the drivers, then tried uninstalling and re-installing the drivers. Still the BSOD remained. Took the GPU out entirely, connected my displays to the MOBO's I/O and everything worked. The next day everything went nuts. Remember, the card is not in the system now. I get a "CPU Over Voltage Error" on startup. I get to the BIOS. I can't believe what I'm seeing: CPU Voltage: 4.064v Memory Voltage: 4.064v +12v rail: 24.288v +5v rail: 10.120v +3.3v rail: 2.608v Motherboard Temp: -57c This doesn't seem like a GPU driver issue to me. I saw a thread on Tom's Hardware that indicated that the nvlddmkm.sys error could be related to a bad PSU. What do you think is happening? Help!
  5. Ok just to let you guys know i built this from scraps ive been able to get my hands on so sorry for the mediocre list of parts. lets start off with specs im using a dell optiplex with its standard motherboard, i installed a I7 4790S, 16gb of ddr3 1600mhz ram, i swapped the standard psu for a 600w thermaltake tr2 i am using a 24pin to 8 pin adapter till i can afford a new motherboard, and i installed a 1080ti replacing my 1050ti. It worked fine with my 1050ti but i get black screens when i play world of warships, battlefield 2042, new world, and baldurs gate 3 for about 5-10 minutes. I've gone back and deleted the 1050ti drivers and deleted and reinstalled 1080ti drivers, I've reseated the 1080ti, redownloaded windows and it still happens. Oddly enough FurMark doesnt crash it ive left it running for hours and its fine and only at like 73 degrees. Also PC stays running during this but the light on my gpu goes out and screens go black any help would be appreciated. I dont have this issue when i swap back to the 1050ti but i can barely play bg3 on it. EDIT: also it works fine with most everything else i can be on it for literally hours watching anime or playing older games no problem no hiccups.
  6. Ok so im about to buy a used 1080ti because they're decently priced and about the best i can put in my current rig which is a Dell Optiplex 3020 with a I7 4790s i found on ebay and 16 gigs of ddr3 1600mhz and a nvidia 750 my brother gave me. However my PSU is undersized 290w vs the 600w i probably need for the 1080ti. My question is what PSU should i get my motherboard only has a 4pin cpu connector and a 8 pin board connector? i think any should do if i have a 4pin and 3 8pins but im not sure and finding one is a pain
  7. (Sorry if this belongs in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling) I have an AORUS 1080 Ti (non Xtreme) with a EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel (rev. 2.0) Waterblock attached to it that I bought used back in '19. The issue is that one of the screws that hold the waterblock to the card is stripped. I can somewhat forcefully rotate the waterblock around that stripped screw to do maintenance, with no leaks after doing as such several times over the years. Another issue is that while I was given the original housing with the fans, the thermal pads that allow it to be reverted back to a non watercooled card on both sides are completely gone. (I don't think the thin pads meant for the waterblock would work but please tell me if otherwise.) Now with GPUs somewhat more obtainable, I don't think someone would really buy this 1080 TI, but I wanted to know what others think. Should I... 1.) Try to sell the card as is? (Custom loop but old hardware seems unlikely to me...) 2.) Find a way to remove the waterblock, install thermal pads and the original housing, then try to sell it? 3.) Try to sell it as a bundle with a fittings, tubing, reservoir and pump? 4.) Make a full loop build with it and try to sell it? Also, would sub $200 be fair for the card as is? (I put no value on the waterblock since it's not RGB and cannot be used on any other 1080 TI card than the Xtreme.) Any input is appreciated.
  8. I was looking to finally upgrading my GTX 1080ti Strix i bought on launch like 7 years ago. lol It seems to be finally showing it's age where i can no longer play Overwatch 2 at max settings 1440p, 165FPS on my Gsync monitor. I also started to play Cyberpunk 2077 now that's been fixed. And later plan on playing Hogwarts Legacy. I game at 1440p with a Gysnc monitor. I really don't want to spend over $1k on a GPU rightnow as I have trips planned for the end of the year plus hopefully LTX in addition to the 40 series seems like being insanely priced. Would it be best to just get a used 3080 for $550-$650 instead of a 4070ti for $850?
  9. i had a little aged, but perfectly capable desktop pc: 1080ti, i9 9900k, 32 gigs of ram - it was ok for 2K monitor, even for modern titles (mostly). life got in the way, and long story short - i don't have it with me anymore. so now i need to buy a new one, but this time - a laptop (i need to stay mobile). i'd like to have something comparable in terms of performance, but have no idea, what would it be in modern hardware. ofc, just work my butt off to buy something latest and greatest could be an option, but i'd rather have something cheaper, relatively on the level of my old pc. so the question is, what modern laptop hardware will perform similarly to 1080ti and i9 9900k? thx.
  10. I bought a new monitor and was trying it out but it only gives me up to 4K 120 hz. The monitor is advertised to be able to go up to 4K 144hz. Any ideas? the only thing i can think is that the 1080ti doesnt support 4K 144hz. Also every other Resolution works at 144hz.
  11. I was browsing a local 2nd hand site and found a 1080 ti going for 310 USD (using usd as a universal currency) I immediately clicked on that listing since I knew that could be a good price as I read through the listing I noticed that the person was willing to trade in a 1050 ti to lower the price to 235 USD (I currently have a 1050 ti) hence the title Now I was wondering if that is worth my time because this person does live like 2 hours away from me The gpu models in question (urls): - 1080 ti - 1050 ti
  12. Hi everyone, I am making a new build for gaming and streaming. On Ebay, the price of the 2070 and 1080ti are comparable, I know that the performance of the 1080ti is greater, at least in Unigine superposition. But I'm not sure how to check the streaming performance. I know that the newer NVENC probably has a huge effect, but I don't really know much about NVENC anyway. So, what would you guys recommend? Should I buy a 2070 or 1080ti for gaming and streaming?
  13. I've recently upgraded from a 1060 3gb to a 1080ti. Massive difference! But I don't have the funds to upgrade my CPU, so I am stuck with a 10100 for now. Do you think that I should start using vsync to eliminate CPU bottleneck? Does that even make sense? I play mostly singleplayer games and my monitor is 75Hz@1080p
  14. Hi everyone, i've been struggling with a weard problem for a very long time. I have a Zotac Geforce gtx 1080ti whitch doesn't post 9 out of 10 times. When I keep pressing the restart button it does post after many times. My MSI z390-A pro EZ Debug leds freezes on the VGA led. after abbout 50 sec. the display turns on and freezes on the boot screen. i've tried updating the firmware of the gpu. Ive tried resetting the bios many times with no succes. when the pc does boot it has no problems what so ever. It is only while trieing to boot. at first I thougt it was a problem with the motherboard. After switching to a new motherboard the pc started to boot better but it still is very frustrating having to push the reset button sometimes 10 times before the pc boots. When i remove the 1080ti I have no problems what so ever. Does anyone have any idea how to fix the 1080ti? I have a hard time letting go of it since it does work perfectly when it has booted. Thanks everyone!! Forgot the specs of my pc: GPU: Zotac nvidia geforce gtx 1080TI motherboard: MSI z390-A pro CPU: Intel I5-8400 RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16Gb set (4x4) 2666MHz PSU: Corsair 650W Boot SSD: Kingston A2000 M.2
  15. So sadly my ROG Strix 1080ti I bought on release date has been having issues were it randomly crashes after playing any game for more than 1 minute. It does this weird pixilation on both my monitors and freezes then the game crashes. I have restored my windows to 2 months ago, updated windows 10 to the latest version clean installed Nvidia drivers and even removed GeForce Experience and still nothing. So my question is should I just buy a 3080 and stay with that. or should I buy a lower end card like a 3060ti or something similar and wait for the 40 series cards to then get a 4080 and sell my 3060ti to get some money back. My current system is a 5900X with a 1000W PSU and I liek to game at 2560 x 1440 with Gsync
  16. So I built my computer back in 2014, and at the time the parts I installed where about the best at the time.. The only downside is I ended up with a 3770 and not a 3770k for a CPU. But anyway, the computer was a beast in its time, and still holds up well today. The only upgrade I have made to it was an EVGA 1080ti ftw3 graphics card to replace my dated 660oc as games where becoming unplayable. It was not until I had installed the new graphics card that I realised that my CPU and Ram where a major bottleneck. The bottleneck was so bad that I hardly noticed a difference in performance between the 660oc and the 1080ti. I knew the 1080 was an awesome card, I just needed better performance to feed the card. I really didn't want to upgrade the whole computer as it was still a very decent daily powerhouse, so I started looking into overclocking. After a lot of patients and multiple system crashes, I finally found the sweet spot. The computer power through anything now, and has no dramas playing AAA titles in 1440p at around 140fps. And what supprised me the most is the system is stable, while benching the same as a Ryzen 5 on user benchmark (84.4% cpu score). It is safe to say that I extremely impressed with the real life results from over clocking. I will explain all my parts and settings below. My System Specs are: -Intel Core i7 3770 -Gigabyte Z77x-D3H -16gb Corsair Vengence Pro 4 Channel kit @ 1600MHZ - EVGA 1080ti ftw3 -700watt Cooler master PSU -Cooler Master Dual Fan heat pipe CPU cooler -Cooler master CM Storm Case -2x 250gb SSD and 1 3tb hDD One thing to remember, is to only overclock through the bios settings and not through software like Intel XTU. Intel XTU works well for the "K" CPU's but doesn't make much of a difference to the non "K" CPU's as in only can increase the multiplier by 4 positions. Also once you have overclocked through bios and try to change the multiplier in Intel XTU, the system will crash straight away. Also ensure you have a Z series motherboard, decent CPU cooler installed and your pc is clean. Also, do not be afraid to get into your BIOS and have a look around, if you are ever concerned that you may have changed a setting erroneously, you can always load defaults, and start over. The first step is to restart your pc, and boot into the bios by pressing either the Delete key or f2 key (depending on your motherboard) as the computer boots. Once you are in bios, you want to enable XMP Ram Profile. Poke around in the BIOS and look for an option named “XMP”. This option may be right on the main settings screen, or it may be buried in an advanced screen about your RAM. It may be in an “overclocking” options section, but just enable it when you find it. XMP basically just unlocks the full performance of your ram. Next, you want to look for the CPU Frequency settings which will be in the overclocking/performance section on the bios. In there you will find the CPU core ratio/ or CPU multiplier, you will want to turn that up as high as it goes which should not go higher than 41, that is the basic overclock that everyone does. After that, you will want to find the clock ratio settings, and set it two 107.2. When you increase this setting, you will see your base clock, and ram speed increase. Depending on your system, you may experience the system crash. If that happens, just go back to bios and decrease the clock ratio until you system runs smooth. Also, while you are in bios, disable any power saving modes, and set every power setting to performance, or extreme in Gigabytes case. And that's pretty much it.. Anyway, hope this helps someone out, any questions hit me up.. Have Fun Overclocking
  17. Good day, My Intent: I have two identical MSI GTX1080 ti Gaming X graphics cards I want to SLI. I wish to put a water block on only the top card. I want to put the water block on the better performing card. My Rationale: While many of the games I play do support SLI, several do not. I want my best performing card under water so I can squeeze every bit of performance out of it for these non-SLI games. When SLI is in use, having the top/master card under water will allow for a better overall cooling solution than two air-cooled cards, without the expense of a double-GPU loop. My Problem: I am testing them with the case panel removed, no obstructions, with the fans at 100%. Both cards still thermal throttle, even at stock power/clock settings. My Testing Method: I am using MSI Afterburner to OC, Heaven benchmark to stress-test the cards, and Riva-tuner to monitor stats. My Question: How can I determine which card is the better candidate for water cooling when both thermal throttle with air coolers during the benchmark, even at stock settings? I don’t want to end up putting one card under water, just to see it peak at 2025MHz, when the other could have reached 2090MHz under water. I also do not wish to go through the hassle of swapping the waterblock back and fourth several times while I am benchmarking. Supporting Hardware: My loop includes one 280x140x45mm push-pull front radiator, one 280x140x30mm push top radiator, and also cools the CPU (4790k, 4.7Ghz @ stock voltage). There is a bottom mounted 120mm fan blowing air directly into the face of the lower GPU. Thank you for your time, Matthew
  18. Hi everyone, I`ve finally built my first PC, however I`ve ran into some problems. I can use my GPU only and only if I connect the cable to it, after I boot the PC using the on-board graphics. If I don`t use the on-board graphics, I get the white Asus Q-led which is an error for VGA. The GPU is fully seated, because once I boot up windows using the on-board GPU, and change the DP cable to the GPU itself, I`ve ran FurMark for 10 minutes w/o any issues. I have tried the following: 1 -> reset CMOS 2 -> try 2`nd PCI slot 3 -> Move the M2SSD to a different slot so that it is not on the same lines as the first PCI slot 4 -> Change configuration of the PCIe in BIOS from auto to gen3 or gen4. 5 -> This is where things get really strange. In the ASUS BIOS I have tried setting the primary display to PCIe, however every time I do that, and change the cable to my GPU before boot, I get the same white LED. Now, after I go for the on-board video and check BIOS, the settings get reverted automatically to CPU. I have tried setting it to Auto, and the same things happen. I`ve seen that other people encountered the same issue, and I tried a lot of bios configurations and nothing worked... Also, I have the latest stable BIOS firmware, so that should not be an issue. My build: Motherboard-> ASUS TUF GAMING B660M-PLUS WIFI D4 RAM -> Kingston FURY Beast 16GB DDR4 3600MHz CL17 Dual Channel Kit PowerSource -> Seasonic Focus GX, 80+ Gold, 650W GPU -> ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G SSD -> HP EX900 1TB PCI Express 3.0 x4 M.2 2280 CPU -> Intel Alder Lake, Core i5 12600K 3.7GHz Any help would be more than welcome. Thank you !
  19. Hello everybody, Recently bought used 1080ti assembled by Zotac. Gpu looked fine, good old furmark ran fine and card was not overheating. Allegedly seller said it wasn’t disassembled. After returning home tried to play some games, they would crash. Some would work for a little. Cyberpunk never launched, always crash while loading benchmark. Most of benchmarks run fine. Tried drivers, DDU, bios flash, give case more air, stronger PSU, different systems. Card says it’s not overheating, decent 70 degrees. So I decided to disassemble it since I know I was scammed. Die and heatsink is wrecked. Is it beyond saving? What could be the issue with crashing? High temp pockets?
  20. My pny 1080ti performs horrible (PNY GTX 1080 Ti Blower Gaming OC). Somewhere i have a folder of results from other benchmarks when i started looking into this, but since i have no idea where that folder is i can run other benchmarks if needed (windows 10 and ubuntu currently installed). Mining daggerhashimoto it gets ~8.5 mh (my 2 evga ftw3 1080ti each get ~32mh). About a year ago i pulled this card out of my server to troubleshoot but behavior is same on other computers are it was in server (got it for video transcoding mainly...but that is part of a whole different story). Attached are 2 superposition runs (performance went down after geforce driver update). For sanity check i took one of the evga cards and put it on this pc and score was ~16,000 (forgot to screenshot it). Next logical step would be to update the bios/firmware, but i haven't had good luck finding verified versions for this card. According to nvidias tool, it is on the latest version so reinstalling that version should be the step to take but that is not an option their tool gave me. I know i should have sold the card back when everything was crazy high...it was on my todo list but just never happened. Considering how much dead for parts cards were going for, one that works but not as well as it should would have been a decent payday (and gone into buying more exos drives). I dont think it is a thermal issue, but i can go back and run a long furmark again if someone wants to know what it maxes out at. That being said, i have not replaced the thermal paste, but since it hasn't seemed to be overheating that didnt seems like a useful step.
  21. I just got a used 1080ti and according to the last owner it used to run but something stopped working. I have a 1080 that runs fine in my pc, I have a x99s gaming7 MB and a i7 cpu I was plugging the 1080ti into a known working pcie slot and getting nothing at all. No display and when looking at bios with my 1080 it was not even showing the 1080ti plugged into the pcie slot. I have tried other slots and still noting even running it alone in the pc. I have 750W power supply so power is not a problem. I have taken it apart and found no sighs of damage or corrosion, i cleaned it with alcohol and still nothing I'm starting to run out of ideas and would love a little help if anyone has any other last ideas before i try throwing it in a oven!
  22. I wanted to create this thread to seek issues on system stability. I'll start with PC specs Cpu: AMD Threadripper 1950x GPU: gigabyte gaming oc black 1080ti 11gb Ram: g-skil trident z rgb 3200 mhz cas 14 (32 gb) MOBO: Asrock Taichi x399 Bios: P 1.50 (Sep. 5 2017) Bios Mode: Legacy Boot drive: Samsung 960 Evo NVME 250 gb OS: windows 10 version: 10.0.19044 X64-based Pc Graphic drivers: Version 511.79 (Feb 14 2022) Monitor (main) asus rog strip XG27u 4k 144hz (2 other monitors 4k are 1080p respectively both set to 60hz) Symptoms: Computer crashes (no blue screens) computer crashes (blue screens, I have **some** of the crash codes but not many). While gaming game screen will flicker (regardless of full screen, windowed, boarderless, vsync, gysnc). Game crashes and instabilities. Seems like all games I play regardless of launcher and regardless of verified game files. Games I currently play (dyling light 1&2, overwatch, cyberpunk 2077). I'm game stuttering (even with 60% GPU usage. Computer set up: The computer was built back at the launch of the AMD Threadrippers. 1st generation. I acquired a 1950x that was supposedly from the original conference/show off of the Threadrippers. Got the CPU for $840 back then. As for the GPU I've had to replace it since the original build of the computer. It's the same brand make and model as the original GPU when the system was built. Old gpu was bricked? No longer functioning so I replaced it. The GPU is built with a NZXT bracket that allows an AIO to be mounted to the gpu. With an additional fan blowing on the VRMS. What I have done: Fresh install of windows. I wiped my boot drive and installed windows fresh (left my game drive in tact(only stores downloaded games)). I updated graphic drivers and the optional AMD drivers when updating windows. I have run a stress test on the CPU and it's fine? (At this point I've only done a 10 minute test. CPU is on AIO so Temps stay below 67C (HWinfo never indicates thermal throttling when using CPU for gaming, benchmarking, stressing, or rendering)). As for the GPU when running the AIDA 64 extreme stress test (that does CPU, FPU, CACHE, SYSTEM MEMORY, GPU) I get a hardware failure detected. Things I've thought to try: Update Bios firmware or MOBO I am seriously up to suggestions so please help.
  23. system specs: CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x RAM: Trident z neo 16gb ddr4 3600mhz GPU: 1080 ti founders edition PSU: corsair rm850x Motherboard: Asus ROG strix b450-f I am having trouble updating the drivers of my 1080 ti. every time I attempt to update to the latest version my pc slows to a crawl (I got about a frame every few seconds on my desktop just moving my mouse around and no matter how long I wait it does not fix itself) and have to revert the changes in windows safe mode to roll back the driver version to 456.71 and it will work completely fine again. This happens regardless of if I do a clean install or even use DDU to uninstall drivers first. I have even completely wiped everything on my pc and freshly installed windows. If I swap in my old 1050 ti the driver update will work perfectly fine, but when swapping the 1080 ti back as soon as the drivers kick in it will slow back to a crawl. This happens with all drivers past 456.71 now. I'm afraid my GPU may be dying in some way, but I'm out of ideas on what to try to get any new versions of drivers. I have been ignoring this problem for the most part for the last year or so until today when I now get visual artifacts in Elden ring and I assume its because I'm on stuck such an old driver version. What else can I do? swapping the 1080 ti into a completely different computer yields these same results.
  24. Hello, I have a EVGA Nvidia 1080 ti Hybrid Ryzen 1600x Mobo Aorus b450 Backstory my issue is my PC last night was working just fine, shut down normally. this morning i go ahead and turn on the PC no image, but everything turn on. i go online and read and i decided to Go ahead and clean de CMOS on the motherboard. Actual issue. PC comes on normally boots, but after less than a minute my screen just turns in to a solid color and nothing happens after that. i restart go on to safe mode and the error does not happen. go back to normal and i keep getting same error of a solid color screen. i installed ddu, lunch in to safe mode clean the drivers, PC boots fine, when i went ahead and installed the drivers same issue again, tried with older drivers as well lasted a couple of minutes more but again went back to getting a solid color. Things i have tried and checked: -I checked temps and they are just fine, around 30c on the memory and on the chip around 29c. -checked with a different HDMI cable same issue. -tried a different screen still having the problem. Can anyone tell me why would this happen out of nowhere? I'm just not able to buy a new graphics card at the moment and more with the exorbitant prices of them at the moment, and not looking forward to getting a new one.
  25. This is an old EVGA reference edition 1080 ti i purchased from a friend around 2018ish, he had installed the EVGA hybrid cooler on it and also gave me the original shroud. Fast forward now, (my Hybrid cooler died) my system was hard reseting with no system errors besides saying an unexpected shutdown occurred in any graphic intense programs. Pulled GPU and put it in my roomates PC, angry water pump failure noises. So i replaced the original shroud back with XTM50 thermal paste on the die and it worked fine. Fast forward about a week or two and i purchase Topaz an AI upconversion program for video and have been running that for about a week. The other day i have the same symptom, hard resets on the system with no errors aside from the sudden shutdown and this happens now with any graphics intense programs. Occom's Razor says its most likely a heat issue again but i had my roommate test it while i was at work (OT on Q4 is crazy no time for myself rn) and he says no out of the ordinary temps during run, but idk what to do at this point. I had him run the Topaz program and it happened for him about 40 minutes into a video conversion, and happened in Halo Infinite 2 minutes into a round and then instantly when attempting to launch the training room. I might just have to buy a replacement in this stupid economy of cards. Any idea on what i can do here? 1080 ti is not at the point where it needs to be replaced for performance, and i really dont want to pay 2x MSRP at MicroCenter for a 3900xt or 3800xt (i go big so they last longer, buy cheap buy twice). I hope i gave enough info here, I have had a card fail before, it was an XFX R9 290 with an NZXT water cooler on it, im 100% positive it damaged my vram from lack of proper cooling. It had similar issues but instead of hard resetting it froze the image or black screened with audio still running. After a year of testing that one I was able to get XFX to RMA it and i have never touched NZXT products beyond a fan or case. Not really important, just mentioning this sense its a similar issue and im aware i could have damaged my card during the swap of cooling systems or perhaps it was damaged when its hybrid cooler died and was still in use. I just dont know if i missing something, and i feel deja vu rn with this card.
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