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zeros

Member
  • Content Count

    769
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About zeros

  • Title
    Not an Admin.

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Freelander :D

System

  • CPU
    Intel Xeon E5-1650 v2 @3.69GHz, 6c12t; AMD Athlon 635 X4 OC to 3,51GHz
  • Motherboard
    HP workstation
  • RAM
    4x4GB ECC
  • GPU
    NVdia EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Classified
  • Case
    BitFenix Neos
  • Storage
    Samsung R0 2x128GB, Micron R0 2x256GB, SanDisk 256GB; 5TB WD Gold, 1TB WD Green Drive, 2TB WD Red and 2TB Seagate Barracuda
  • PSU
    EVGA 80+G 750W
  • Display(s)
    LG 55" 4k HDR (Server - Dell U2410F 24"; LG W2453V 24", Dell U2410F 24"(2nd))
  • Cooling
    Stock everything
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 Platinum
  • Mouse
    Mionix Naos 7000 w/ Steelseries QcK mousepad, Logitech MX Master
  • Sound
    Sennheiser 598SE and SteelSeries 840 Wireless
  • Operating System
    Win XP, 7, 8.1, 10, Debian
  • Laptop
    Lenovo Carbon X1

Recent Profile Visitors

3,392 profile views
  1. In this case buy the new drive, copy what you need onto it from your current SSD and then put the windows DVD or USB into computer. From within windows installation you can delete all partitions from the old drive (watch out so you don't accidentally delete the new SSD partition). Format the new unallocated drive and install windows onto it. I never went over 80GB with the C partition with windows and programs only on it. All my games are on a different SSD and so are my downloads. Though I also have a HDD for storing more stuff that I don't use all the time. The attached picture is one I took off the internet. As you can see it only has one drive with 3 partitions, Drive 0, you would have this as your current SSD. First click on delete for each of these then format what would show up as drive 0 unallocated. Your second SSD would show up as Drive 1
  2. Buy the cheapest 500 or 550W bronze PSU, go second hand if new is too much. Just make sure it has the connector you need.
  3. Hello, If you are using a PC I recommend of using the 120GB SSD as an OS drive and the 1TB one as for everything else. If you are using a laptop check if you have space for 2 SSD's and do the same. If neither then format the new 1TB SSD making partitions like: C:/ for Windows 100GB (Check on google on how to get exactly 100GB and not 99.9GB if these things bother you) D:/ for everything else. Partitions are always recommended when using 1 drive with windows on the same drive. Reason being that if windows gets corrupted and you reinstall it you can actually format just the partition and all you'd lose is desktop, downloads, browser data and other stuff from C drive but nothing from D drive. Edit: For the second question in your post. Yeah just delete all partitions then create a new one and format it. The new one will basically be the drive itself of 120GB (110ish). There's no risk to it other than losing those drivers which you can probably get from your manufacturer's website.
  4. 9h to download. Aaaah how I wish I was home to download with gigabit connection.
  5. Not IPS screen but uses a "nice" TN panel if I remember correctly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TXH2YSH/ref=psdc_13896615011_t3_B00405WVVW -quad core AMD A12-9720P with an integrated R7 GPU -15.6" - 1080p -16GB RAM -256GB SSD+1TB HDD -AC wi-fi -1 Type C, one USB 3.0, two USB 2.0 and one full size HDMI port -SD card reader $429
  6. Annoying . I was kinda looking like a child safe environment... VM's would have been perfect as no matter what goes wrong the main system will be safe. I will have to look into it more. Cheers
  7. How about logging into a virtual windows and make a user there which would be available from the log in screen?
  8. Hi all, looking to create a user on my windows 10 PC. But unlike a normal user I want this user to have only access to their desktop and 1 folder on one of the partitions and be unable to see any other partitions or folders. Kind of like logging into a personal virtual windows without all the virtual stuff. Is this possible?
  9. Well dunnno if this still matters, I ended up with a k95... the keys are a bit loud when pushed back, has this metal boink noise to it. otherwise it's quite nice, just need to get used to the layout. Also keys are kinda way too easy to take off. Got the brown switches model.
  10. Fyi if anyone else had/have this problem: I received an update to windows a few days ago and that fixed it. I don't know how an update would have been stuck or how to remove whatever caused it previously. My fault was that I didn't care for too long and lost track of which update caused this issue.
  11. Ooooh! I like it. Macro's not essential but I'd definitely use them if available, RGB yes as it's nice to have your own desired backlight. Yes numpad is a must, so annoying without it. Interesting , informative too. I see
  12. I have no words.. we are lubing keyboards?
  13. I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard because my current one is going out of action. My favorite one so far is the K95 from corsair with brown switches, though I really only tried the speed and red switches in stores.. can't even remember what they feel like anymore, what I'm trying to say is that the switches won't really matter much but I do like the idea that the browns are more silent. My current keyboard is on the heavy side and after one A4 page writing I can already feel it. What I'm looking for is build quality and the K95 with the aluminium frame is what really attracts me. Long story short: any other OP build quality keyboards that come with brown switches? Any help appreciated, current price on K95 is £170 so I'm not looking at anything more expensive than this. ($220/€197/VEF55,081,592.65)
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