Mr.Dingle

5 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Since it was related to recent conversations...

 

11 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

@Mr.Dingle Megane friends

Yay

Chinesium 32mm PWK Keihein carby. 

Nyoom. 

2 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

I think part of why it felt so sluggish down low was the very low tire pressure, probably only 10-15PSI or so along with a still kind of cold engine on grass is at least a bit of it. I think I read the power valve was operated by a servo too? I'll read some more online but engine seems fine so far

Yeah , servo , cable or vacuum operated . Should be fun once de-restricted , maybe throw a 32mm carby on it , with a boyseen rid kit ... and a different pipe to suit your riding style ... 

9 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Thanks for the tips! Power band is very dualsmokey with not even enough power to move the bike below 3k, very little power from 3k to 7k but once it hits that magic 7k it shoots away like a rocket Got any tips on the power valve? Nothing felt of when I have ridden it around. Will check sparkplug tomorrow.

Powervalve should follow throttle opening on those models , later models got the RPM or vacuum operated power valves . There are lots of info on line how to check and adjust them , but basically it should stay closed till 5-6k RPM then open up to full position and stay open at above 8k RPM . 

If its lacking a lot of power down low , it could need some adjusting . Really not alot can go wrong on those engines , if Honda knows how to make anything at all , its their 2strokes . 

Other stuff includes opening up the engine , to inspect the bore for signs of past seizures and general engine health .  Some stuff to watch out for is wear on the exhaust side of the cylinder , it should not exhibit any more wear than the transfer port sides , otherwise it was ran too lean (more heat = piston + rings expand more and since heat transfer is un-even between the two sides , exhaust side tends to wear out quicker especially around the bridge area ) 

Since you said it behaves ok , a basic plug and compression test should tell you all you need to know . 

41 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

So I bought another bike!

 

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It's a 1990 Honda NSR 125R

 

It's a little ratty, needs a bit of TLC but nothing is too bad. Engine, frame and suspension is all good from what I have seen. The cosmetics, lights and tires are not the best though. Front break had no leaver and the reservoir was bad, the little window just fell out into my hand when I tapped it so that's one thing that needs replacing. Oh and this is what the rear break fluid looked like:

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Looked like someone put coffee in there...

 

Anyway after a few hours of work it's torn down, front light needs to be fastened better, i don't think it would pass inspection like this. That, tires, a bit of touch up paint and the front break and it's all ready for my brother! Yah it's not for me, even if I want to ride it
You can remove the exhaust plug and update the papers to get 21KW legally, the bike is 135KG so that would be amazing fun. It's already quick from what little I have ridden

 

2 Stroke,  automatic thumbs up . Check the power valve , as it can be a pain if its not synchronised properly with the throttle . Good thing to check is the plug should be golden brown ideally ( mixture wise ) , and if you do remove the exhaust restriction you will have to jet up a few sizes . 

2 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

Youre meant to push the right pedal for that

Maybe he cant reach the floor :thonk:

31 minutes ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

10 over, wow, what a crime

Maniac

23 minutes ago, Wauthar said:

Dual Weber is of course the ultimate form of badassery, I know.

 

Maybe some time in the future, I now have the possibility for upgrades! My current 1200 block is quite limited. 

Wont allow embedding sadly.. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xX2tcw9uRg&t=1s

2 minutes ago, Wauthar said:

No, I'll keep everything stock for now. I took the picture during my disassembly process, the oil and grease you see there could well be 40 years old  

Fair enough ...

Dual weber and stroker kit you know you want it 

1 hour ago, Wauthar said:

I've started a new 'project', got myself a new engine (1300cc, dual port) for my Beetle. It needs a thorough cleaning and some new seals, but if it's done I'll be going from 34hp to 44!

Weber conversion ?

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

The back seats fold and you can fit like at least 4 dead hookers. 6 if they're Filipino.

Wood chipper .. to make stuff more space efficient

10 hours ago, floofer said:

 

An electric thermometer is much more accurate. It uses a metal probe with an electric current running through it. At a different temperature, the metal probe will have a different resistance to the current, as the atoms vibrate more (Remember temperature is the average amount of kinetic energy in a system - the atoms vibration) it is harder for the electrons to flow, thus more resistance. This is a more subtle change than the mercury thermometer (which we use alcohol now because oopsie), so it is more precise.

Thats not what a thermocouple does . 

11 hours ago, Shadow_Storm56 said:

Why do the mercury style thermometers never agree with electronic style thermocouple sensors? I think it's alcohol now that replaced mercury...but still. Which one should be more accurate? The non electronic read alot lower and the electronic read higher but agree with each other.....so wtf lol. Idk what it means

One relies on physical properties of the material used ( mercury or alcohol ) to accurately represent the change in temperature via change of volume which you then read off a scale , while the other uses the thermo-electric effect which you can then read off of a multimeter / voltmeter or do an analog to digital conversion to use in displays and what not ... From inexpensive K-types which have a very wide range of measurement but are less precise to something like Type-B which have a narrower range of measurement but have +/- .5% error.

Massive.  Free cookie to anyone hwo guesstimates the max. allowed compressor speed (RPM)

4 hours ago, Mr. horse said:

cool. I have a real GX200 on a drift trike.

One can get a lot of power out of them even without boost. If it was a real GX200 I believe you can put a gx160 head with enlarged valves and ports for a quick and cheap boost in power do to the extra compression.

There are also better flywheels and pistons too. nit sure what all one can put in a clone gx200.

Still the trubo seems like a really cool and fun idea. If it does not work one could use a belt driven smoug pump off say a VW jetta or something as a mini super charger.  

Clones are identical in spec to the GX series , minor differences between the Predator ( harbor freight brand ? ) and Chondas to exist , but 99% parts are interchangable. 

25 minutes ago, Mr. horse said:

Reminds me of the tinny 500cc super charger I bought for my EXP.

What are you going to use that trubo on?

Minibike . Hopefully , the engine will be able to spool it enough to get .5bar out of it ( GX200 Clone ) 

A tiny tuvbo. 

EBC Green stuff pads , and a chinesium 26mm Mikuni carburetor. 

100cc of evil

27 minutes ago, Quibiss said:

Even more.

 

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Whats special about a 1,2 Clio ? Swap i presume 

10 hours ago, Ross Siggers said:

To be fair, I kinda like the last generation of Ford Scorpio, we had one when I was a kid. YES it was the ugliest car we ever owned, but sitting inside on your leather sofas, you didn't see that so who cares  

Scorpio with the Cosworth V6 was on my to go list some time ago ...