Premchand

Same for me. ASUS Crosshair VI Hero with 1501 installed. VCore doesn't drop in HWInfo - unless I set minimum and maximum speed to 20% in windows power plan. Frequency drops, though.
 
Edit: OK, while thinking about my results this makes perfect sense. When looking at the VCore levels to see whether it's lowering the Voltage in HWInfo, it didn't unless I lowered the maximum speed in the power plan. I looked at the core frequencies and noticed single cores being clocked up high and some clocked down low. In order to get those up high frequencies, the VCore had to be pstate0. It's either a display, measurement, or pure logic thing. The VCore only drops if all cores are at a low power state. This is somewhat different to Intel SpeedStep overclocking I've done with my 2600K. I'd love to see working VID in pstate compared to offset OCing, for comparison.

Hi everyone i'm just throwing this up as hopefully a short and easy to understand guide to p state overclocking on the crosshair vi hero motherboard (AM4/Ryzen). First of all don't be turned away if you don't have the crosshair! Most of this guide features the AMD common bios which should be common across motherboards (it is just up to your board manufacturer which options to make available in their BIOS).
 
Why should you want to do this? Well as you may has noticed if you have overclocked your powerful new ryzen cpu that it no longer downvolts/downclocks when idle . This is because this is a fixed all core overclock. Which while good for performance, it is bad for: the cpu's lifespan, excess heat generation when idle and your electricty bill. A power state or "p state" overclock however will not only enable you to overclock above stock speeds but also step back down when idle (similar to Intel's speedstepping).
 
Crosshair specific info:
- This should be working on any BIOS revision later than and including 1002 (which at the time of writing is 1002, 0079, 0081, 0082 and 0083)
- Update 0081 and later should be working with custom BCLK values (though i personally haven't tested this yet), 1002 must use default BCLK.
 
As above i'm using the crosshair vi hero motherboard and BIOS revision 0082 but this should be fairly similar across manufacturers:
 
Step 1: Always best to start with a clean slate so head into the bios and hit "load optimised defaults"
 
 
Step 2: Head to the extreme tweaker screen and check everything is back to default and most importantly that the cpu core ratio is on "auto"
 
 
Step 3: Head to the advanced tab and open the AMD common bios specification or "AMD CBS" for me
 
 
Step 4: Next open "Zen Common Options"
 
 
Step 5: Head down to "Custom Core Pstates" As you can see I left all above options on auto but you might want to force enable "Global C-State Control"
 
 
Step 6: Accept the terms (this is no more dangerous than a fixed all core overclock so don't worry)
 
 
Step 7:  Pstate0 will be set to auto by default, change this to custom
 
 
Step 8: Setting Pstate0 to custom reveals 5 boxes, 3 of which can be changed by the user and the top 2 greyed out boxes show the results. It gets a little complicated here because we are using hexadecimals. we are going to try a 3.9GHz overclock in this guide. Change Pstate0 FID to "9C", do not touch DID or VID, DID is the divisor there is no need to change this and VID is the voltage. We could change VID but at the moment anything different from the default VID breaks it and it will boost 100% of the time. (3A on my 1700 - if this is different for you please use YOUR default value NOT mine)
 
I will add a table to calculate your FID values soon TM   File is now attached: Ryzen Hex Values.xlsx
 
Note: Voltage is in micro volts so that is 1.187500V and not 1187500V (Take a note of this number btw it will help later for the offset)
 
LEAVE ALL OTHER P STATES ON "Auto"
 
 
Step 9: Head back to the extreme tweaker tab because we now need to set the voltage offset. Change the CPU Core Voltage to "Offset mode" and positive "+" Now from your manual OC which you have probably dont prior to this you will know what voltage you need to be stable at 3.9GHz, for me this is 1.3375V but its always good to be a little generous when using offset instead of manual so i'm going to allow 1.35V maximum. To calculate your offset voltage take the desired value and subtract the voltage value that you noted down in the previous step. 1.35V - 1.1875V = 0.16250V
 
Note: My RAM speed and RAM voltage have defaulted to 2133 and auto, leave these as they are and redo your RAM overclock once you are happy with what we are focusing on here.
 
 
Step 10 (Optional): Enter "Extreme Tweaker\External Digi+ Power Control" and give the CPU voltage and SOC voltage some load line calibration to reduce V droop, personally I like level 2. Although this step is entirely optional!
 
Step 11: Boot! Yeah we aren't done yet sorry  Change your Power plan to "high performance" (May also work for AMD Ryzen Balanced plan - untested) or "Ryzen Balanced" (now confirmed to be working) and edit the plan -> change advanced power settings -> expand "Processor Power Management" -> expand "Minimum Processor State" -> set this at 20%
 
Change Log:
 
20/04/17 - Release
20/04/17 - Added Hex Value Calculator
17/05/17 - Minor Text Changes & Confirmation of Ryzen Balanced Plan
 

This is awesome. I was so disappointed when I found out that overclocking Ryzen forces a static state, but this completely fixed my problems.
 
(and @Premchand)
If this is still an issue, I have a few things:
-Update your BIOS just to make sure, unless you've already done that since this post.
-Set "Core Performance Boost" in the tweaker to Auto. I believe this affects Precision Boost and XFR, I'm not sure, but I have it on Auto.
-Try using the Ryzen power plan from AMD, again just to make sure.
 
Those, at least as far as I can tell, are what I'm doing differently. I'm also using Level 2 LLC, but my voltage was behaving probably before I changed that, my system was just unstable.
 
EDIT: I also suggest trying the Windows 'Balanced' power plan, as that much more consistently lowers my CPU's voltage.

Woah hang on, CPU 0, 2, 4 & 6? That isn't right. It also seems your CPU is stuck @ 800Mhz even at full load.

I'd rather get a Western Digital drive; they're mostly more reliable. SSHD's won't help unless you want it to be a boot drive, anyways.

I think WD has the lowest failure rate.
As for HDD vs SSHD, you may as well save the money and get a HDD

Get a WD. Apparently Seagate's are crap.

I believe the WD Black is what most people go for (don't quote me on that one). 

Some people say the black one is noisy, but hey.
Go get a seagate SSHD. Those work fine.

Seagate's barracuda range are their most widespread, and also their cheapest model. I have several decade-old seagate drives here, none of which have stopped working yet. (albeit under light load). I have no experience with their (or any) SSHDs.
 
WD's product stack goes Blue-Black-Red-Purple (I think). There is also a 'Green' model which is supposedly more eco-friendly. The Blue model is the entry-level model, the black is the high-end consumer model, the red drives are for nas use (lots of drives in a compact environment) and the purples are for surveillance servers (24/7 writes with maximum endurance)

If you already have an SSD, the SSHD will not really do much in terms of speed, I would just get a nice WD 2tb Black/Blue

Take your pick
(I have another two versions but they wouldn't paste so have a taster. check link for the other two.
 
http://i.imgur.com/5b8GEBL.gifv
 
 
 
 
[i call this the flailing Dolphin. Or 'don't feed the Linus]
 

 

 

There are, you're just looking in the wrong places
 
 
Also I'd probably back it if I had money flowing out my ass, but right now my money is going towards more important things, such as getting a graphics card (GTX 970) or an SSD...

TEST RANGE...as light as it gets...fire 64players conquest and see the FPS go down down down bro

Did you experienced driver reset before doing the test with low score? By driver reset i mean the screen will go black and then popup "Driver has stopped responding blablabla"? 
If yes, that is your problem. You need to reboot when that happen.

I think you should try to keep around 1.2v, since it may be a case of diminishing returns (where you have to start adding more and more voltage to get less and less frequency), and you will have to deal with the extra heat output by the chip.

power limit is how many watts it can suck from your PSU before it starts throttling

if (card plays my games == ~60fps 1080p)
{
           don't upgrade
}
else
{
           buy cut down version of highest end card on the cheap
}

Best of luck I love my 7950, still very potent.

It is a community about gaming sales/deals.
You can also get free games every now and then(now as well! http://whosgamingnow.com/discussion/52/free-game-dead-bits-once-greenlit )
 
You can find them on steam here: http://steamcommunity.com/groups/wgnchat
And at their website: http://whosgamingnow.com/
On twitch: http://twitch.tv/carlmundo
 
On may 28th is the next stream, if you watch you get a chance to win Age of Mythology: EE & Tabletop Simulator
 
Note i am not affiliated with WGN, just trying to spread the love

Hi guys i heard you like free stuff   Get 4 FREE   Steam Games! (once greenlit) - Sweezy Gunner, Motte Island & more   Join the Who's Gaming Now group: http://steamcommunity.com/groups/whosgamingnow Go to this post and vote for the games: http://steamcommunity.com/groups/whosgamingnow#announcements/detail/1747701666241318740 and you'll get Steams keys once the games are released on Steam.  
Carlmundo(founder of the group) also streams regularly to showcase indiegames and do giveaways.
http://www.twitch.tv/carlmundo
 
I've won a lot of games myself on the stream. (because not many people watch   ...yet)
 
 

Just gonna leave this here...
 
.gif Credits go to nWinn!
 
http://gifsound.com/?gif=fc00.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2014/017/9/5/slickbananaphonetips_by_otakumma-d72mxw3.gif&v=F-glHAzXi_M&s=31

Best day ever

Post any after party memes