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I have a hard time seeing a subscription model for that type of game working even today. Assuming the road map for Battlefield 3 would've been the same.

This will be a rather short post of what I think is unknown Battlefield trivia. At some point during the development of Battlefield 3, having/requiring a monthly subscription was apparently considered. I've never seen this mentioned publicly, but I am not the biggest Battlefield fan, so I apologise if this is already known to some extent. This is something I briefly discussed with a person who worked at ESN Social Software, who were involved with the development of Battlelog. This was back in the summer of 2012, shortly after the company was bought by EA. I don't know too much more but as I’ve never mentioned this to anyone publicly and since enough time has probably passed in order for this to be wholly uncontroversial, I figured someone might find it interesting. Cheers.

DDU only uninstalls the driver, you simply download it from www.geforce.com/drivers afterwards. Uninstalling the driver doesn't damage the graphics card, it does however help in figuring out if the driver/graphics card have anything to do with the issue.

I have a hard time seeing this being caused by your internet connection, assuming you're not only encountering it while playing online. I'm also assuming there are no other errors or symptoms showing, crashes, BSoDs and such Clearing graphics drivers would definitely be a first step, you can do this with DDU. Then you simply download and install your drivers again. The issue is unfortunately rather diffuse so instead of starting to troubleshoot hardware I would reinstall Windows, if new drivers doesn't help. You'll find the options under Settings > Update & security > Reset this PC > Get started.

I would assume these graphical artifacts are caused by the GPU, since you're only encountering it in games. The best step would be to try a different graphics card, if you have any but running a game without any graphics drivers could give us a better clue as well. If you don't have a different graphics card I would recommend uninstalling the drivers with DDU and then running a benchmark / game that you know causes the computer to crash. If you have no issues running a game with no drivers but they start as soon as they're installed, I would unfortunately start looking for a new graphics card. If you have a friend that lets you plug your graphics card into their computer, that'd be a great step to see if the issue can be recreated.

The fact that a DIMM slot is dead makes me think of bent pins as that has been the case in far too many of the IT/support cases I've worked with where a slot is dead. Before taking a closer look at the socket I'd try the following: 1.) As you're having poor performance in-game with the GPU at 100% I would double check the temperature of the CPU and GPU. HWmonitor is a great program for this. 2.) If the temperatures are A-OK, try excluding any faulty ports or peripherals that might be causing a slow boot. Unplugging any extra drives, changing the mouse and keyboard are all great steps but you could also run HDTune in case your primary drive is faulty. 3.) If you're still having issues, and no errors are showing up after an health test in HDTune then running the computer in a minimal configuration would be the next step. Run the motherboard, CPU, drive and RAM separately, outside the case. At the very, you can get a picture of whether or not it's the CPU or motherboard.

What component that is causing the issue will be hard to tell without troubleshooting the actual components. You could check for any physical damage to IO ports on the back, as a damaged port can cause shorting, you should also unplug or change any pheripherials if you haven't already. As you've done more or less everything when it comes to software testing I would, as Makku293 suggests, run the motherboard, CPU and RAM outside of the case, with no additional IO connected. Assuming the problem persists, the next thing could be to cross check the RAM by running them all individually in each DIMM slot. If you're still having issues, the natural assumption would be motherboard or CPU, most likely the motherboard. However this will be hard to confirm without having spares.

The stop codes are unfortunately rather nonspecific on their own, I wouldn't focus too much on them. What you can do is using BlueScreenView. By opening the dump file generated a BSoD with that you can get a more detailed view and it also specifies the responsible processes (highlighted in red). A lot of the times it'll just show the kernel but sometimes you can get a hint if it's a driver or a specific program. If you don't get any useful information from it I would reset CMOS, especially if you've been overclocking. Get back to us when you've had the chance to do these two steps.

The lines that showed on your screen sounds more like graphical artifacts to me. It's great that a CMOS reset solved the issue but I would run some benchmarks and stability tests. Furmark, Superposition and Prime95, the latter is useful if you're suspecting the CPU but I don't see a reason to draw that conclusion from what I've read, yet. (EDIT: You can also use IPDT to benchmark the CPU.) I would also recommend reinstalling your graphics drivers, DDU is great for removing them.

Could be a variety of things. 1.) Start off by resetting CMOS; remove the battery or remove the CMOS jumper if there's no dedicated button. 2.) Cross check your RAM, if you haven't already. Run the computer with one stick at a time, and run them individually in each DIMM slot so that you can get a clear picture of whether or not it's the board or RAM. Update the thread if or when you've attempted these steps as there are quite a few more things that could be done.. Good luck!

If you're having performance issues in all games then we should start with clearing old graphics drivers and updating the chipset. The chipset drivers are found on the motherboard manufacturer's product page, but the GFX drivers can be uninstalled with Display driver uninstaller ( http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html ) When you've finished download the new drivers from www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx or Geforce Experience. You can always try with an older driver if you've just recently started having problems. You can find these on www.nvidia.com/Download/Find.aspx The next step would be to double check your power plan. Navigate to Control panel > Hardware and sound > Power options. Make sure that the High performance option is checked. If the problem persists, perform a full system restore. Just to make sure no it's not software related. Go to Settings > Update & security > Reset this PC > Get started and pick Remove everything

Really good job so far, unfortunately we've more or less done as much as we can. The last step, although it's unlikely to help, is a CMOS reset. To the left of the CPU socket you'll find the CMOS battery.Turn off the computer and remove the battery for 20 seconds. (There's a spring that you press to make it pop out) When the 20 seconds have passed, plug the battery back in and turn on the computer again. If this doesn't help, then I highly recommend sending your CPU and motherboard back for an RMA. If you've bought them from the same store/site, they should have no problem testing them together.

Coil whine is caused by any component that has a electromagnetic coil. It vibrates and at some frequencies makes a wailing noise. It's not something you should be worried about, as all graphics cards and PSUs has this to a varying degree. A tip that might work is to start a game or benchmark where you're getting coil-whine, i.e a loading screen. Let the computer remain in that state, while you're away at work or out walking for example. In some cases the coil might vibrate or move to a spot where the noise isn't as audible.

If it turns off that quickly you might have something shorting. Do the following: 1.) Try removing all the JFP connectors (front panel), and simply put a screwdriver against the power_sw pins. This should start the computer, assuming it's the chassis switch or cable that's defective. 2.) Trouble shoot your RAM by running one stick at time. If the computer doesn't start with one, swap it out for the other. 3.) If that doesn't help, unplug everything. SATA, USB devices and front panel I/O. The best thing would even be to start the computer outside of the chassis. Put the motherboard down on you motherboard box and only plug in the CPU, PSU and one RAM stick. While you won't get any signal since you don't have integrated graphics, the computer should still remain on. After this, we're down to the CPU/motherboard. Not that much you can do if you don't have a spares lying around. Get in contact with the reseller and register an RMA. Good luck. EDIT: Try a different PSU if you have one, or try starting it without being plugged into the motherboard. You can do this by shorting the PS_ON and ground pins. Completely unplug the PSU from your computer, and make sure it's not plugged in to the power socket. Take a paperclip and put one end the the PS_ON pin, and the other one in ground/COM. Connect the power cable and flip the switch. If it is working properly, it should start.

60C under load is completely fine, that's well within it's normal operating temperature. As for RGB fans, the cheaper models would be either akasa Vegas X7 or Corsair SP120 RGB variants. Cheers