Smithy

Hi gang. I'm having a persistent issue with my Xbox Wireless Controllers and I was hoping that some of you might have experienced the same problem and could help me out. The problem lies in the connection between my controllers and my PC through the Xbox Wireless Adapter. Here's the situation: I use an Xbox Wireless Controller connected to my PC via the Xbox Wireless Adapter. At random intervals, the controller loses connection, the controller's light starts flashing, and any audio coming through headphones attached to the controller cuts out. I've done a bit of troubleshooting myself (ensuring the USB driver for the Wireless Adapter is updated via Device Manager, and that the controller's firmware is updated through the Xbox Accessories app) but I still run into the issue on a daily basis. In an attempt to resolve the issue, I even bought another Xbox Wireless Controller but, unfortunately, the problem persists. It's been two years since I first started experiencing this and, despite hardware upgrades during this time (like swapping my CPU from a 3500X to a 5600X, and performing a clean install of Windows 11 on a new SSD), the problem remains unsolved. An interesting observation is that when two controllers are connected, they both lose their connection simultaneously, which leads me to suspect the issue isn't with the controllers themselves but is likely linked to the USB/PC side of things. My current theories for the root cause include: a faulty Xbox Wireless Adapter or a design flaw within it, a power delivery issue with the USB port (which is located at the front of the device, coming off the motherboard USB header), or a potential bug in the driver or how it's implemented in Windows. I doubt it's a wireless interference issue as I reside in a remote area with few wireless devices. Almost everything on my LAN is wired. If anyone has dealt with a similar issue or has any new troubleshooting suggestions that I haven't yet tried, I'd be more than grateful for your advice. If there's any pertinent system info you need, please do let me know. Thanks in advance for your assistance!

I don't make very many forum posts, but I feel this one is worth posting. Since after LMG's move to the new office, I've noticed about 80% of their LTT content doesn't have rich enough colour, especially videos filmed on the orange backdrop. Has anyone else noticed this? I'm only asking because I have poor vision. I'm not trying to take a dig at LTT or the editors. Luke and Linus have said before if there are any problems or issues with the videos/content, to let them know. This is meant to be sincere. Cheers,

This WD NAS is what I was thinking of getting for my parents. I'm hoping this is much more user friendly for them, rather than my dodgy Freenas system, built on some 10 year old second hand PC is on it's deathbed. I hate having to get on the phone and troubleshoot for them when it isn't working properly. Tbh though, it's usually because they didn't press the on button lmao http://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Personal-Network-Attached-Storage/dp/B00EVVGAD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449130964&sr=8-1&keywords=nas

It's really hard to tell which one is the best >_< I'd probably say the headset

Virtual Shot was my favourite feature! Hoping to use that API with some VR stuff!

Some time within the last 6 months, Linus and Luke discussed a Valve official stating that action will only be taken if you protest online, for example Twitter or Reddit after getting a poor review on their customer service from a small but credible review rating company. I have gone through the past 6 months backlog of the table of contents for the WAN show and can't find it. If someone can link me the WAN archive link and maybe a time, that would be great! Kind regards. -Smithy

It was given to me from a friend, but that wasn't why they got rid of it. The headset is so heavy, that for extended use, it gives shocking headaches around the headband. Edit: But yes, I agree. It's probably defective, I would expect ROCCAT would have fairly high standards.

So I have just got the ROCCAT Kave 5.1 second hand. It uses green, orange, black and pink 3.5mm for I/O and one USB 2.0 for power and volume control. I'm using the rear I/O of my ASRock 990FX Extreme3, and have never had electrical noise through previous headsets. To troubleshoot this, I unplugged each 3.5mm jack, one by one until no jacks were plugged in. I still had the electrical noise, and only the USB was plugged in. How do I fix electrical noise on USB?

I personally am not sure on that topic. I haven't needed to buy my own, only troubleshoot other peoples issues. What I would recommend is making another thread 'Best Under $100 DAC/Audio Cards' and get the opinions of people that have more experience. Best of luck, I hope it all works out.

I agree, the white one does look the best Edit: My personal rig.

Sounds like you're experiencing electrical noise from your motherboard. I reckon you need a on desktop DAC, or an audio card. That will eliminate the electrical interference from the mobo.

Of course I made the mistake of going with an AMD 8-core But I have seen little socket covers that go over the pins, for doing things like this.

Defiantly, I've been researching for a while, it's a big commitment. Want to do it right, so as much info as possible I reckon

I don't need to delid my CPU because it's bonded with a liquid solder, and lapping is actually far safer than delidding

So in Australia, we are approaching the worst of our summer. I've looked into CPU lapping so I can maintain my overclock, but can not find any good tutorials or resources. LMG have the resources and knowledge to cover an idea like this, with a much higher quality of video and information. So just an idea for a new video.