DerBurner

Hi, My new i5 8600k automatically sets it´s core voltage to around 1,45 Volts while stress tested or gaming if not specified otherwise in UEFI. I´m kinda confused, I´m sure this kind of voltage cannot be healthy for it, however it raises the voltage itself to this level so it should be fine? Does someone else who owns this CPU experienced the same behaviour? Thanks for all replies.

Glad to hear that! I hope it´s solved too, so you can enjoy your machine without worrying about it turning off

Since your temps are fine, and the system runs without a problem between the crashes, the only reason I could think of now is a faulty PSU. Did you checked for the GPU power cables as Doomed83 suggested, and did you tried swapping in your old PSU? The only ways I experienced PC´s just turning off without warnings were due to temps or something that tripped the fuse of the PSU, short circuits for example.

No worries, thank you very much for your help Of course I know that gaming does not stress the system in the same way as a stress test does. My whole problem is that I (currently) am unable to run any stress test for more than half an hour due to very strange temperature behaviours that (in my mind) shouldn't occure with a water cooled CPU, given a proper installation and a working cooler, which I'm sure it is. By the way, I'm using an AIO, so no dedicated reservoir, I have the radiator mounted in the front of my NZXT s340 elite case.

I just noticed another weird behaviour that could help with troubleshooting: When I start a benchmark (not that maximum heat one that instantly shuts down the system due to high temps, Prime95 has several options, here I´m using the one with max power consumption, not the one that produces max heat ) and let it run for some time, temps are settling at around 70-75, which isnt that bad. But at some point all cores suddenly spike up to over 90 degrees, eventually hitting 100 and shutting down the system. When I intervene and stop and immediately restart the test, the temps go back to 70-75 and stay there, only to spike again for no apparent reason after some time has passed. I didnt start any other programm or task when that happened, I just sat and watched the temps.

Those are around 23 degrees

I actually had the CPU fan header still set at a quiet profile, just switched it to max power, no difference. It´s version 28.10, yeah I´m using AVX. Previous cooler was the Alpenföhn Brocken 2, and I bought and switched coolers 3 weeks ago, so the temps are rather up-to-date. Water temperature is about 32 degrees at idle. CPU idle temps are in the 40s.

It was spread out, so no contact issue. Yes, the pump is connected, I can hear it and the software shows its working. When I´m gaming for an hour or so, one tube is hotter than the other, so its working. That´s why I`m asking for help, cause there is no apparent reason (at least for me) for the aio to be worse than the tower.

I have them plugged into the pump, cause I only have 1 cpu fan header and no fan splitter available. But even if I manually set them to 100% (in Corsair LINK), temps remain as bad, its almost as if the cooler is to slow to keep up with the temps. As is mentioned, the pc shuts down when starting a stress test, because the CPU reaches 100 degrees immediatly, even with fans at 100%.

Sorry, forgot to mention. Before: Idle about 30 Gaming 70-80 Now: Idle about 40 Gaming 60-70

I recently purchased an h100i v2 aio from Corsair, to replace my old ugly tower cooler. Now the idle temps are about 10 degrees higher, and as soon as I start Prime95 stress test, the CPU (7600k @ 5ghz) hits 100 degrees and the system shuts down. That never happened with my tower cooler. Pump and fans are working, I already checked the mounting and replaced the thermal paste, but no changes to the mentioned points. Only when gaming it behaves as expected, with themps about 10 degrees lower than with the old cooler. Is this behaviour normal when water cooling? Its my first water cooling attempt ever. Thanks!

Hi there, I tried to OC my new i5 7600k running on an ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming K4 motherboard, but ran into an issue with the voltage control of my CPU. It seems to completely ignore my settings I made in the UEFI, wether it´s setting an individual value for the voltage or changing the voltage to static or adaptive mode. More specifically, static voltage control does not work and individual values are also being ignored, but the preconfigured OC profiles from the mainboards manufacturer (ASRock) do work, currently I have a profile running that sets the clock speed to 4,7 Ghz and voltage to 1,35V. Aside from that, everything else like setting different clock speed does work. What am I missing here? Is there some kind of hidden setting? I searched the web extensively but didn´t found a solution or someone who had the same problems than I have. Thanks!

Hi, I'm searching for a way to DIY install LED's inside of the speaker boxes from my sound system. Has anyone done something like this and has some tips for me? The biggest issue currently is where to get power for the LED's, as it would be very impractical if I had to run a seperate cable to the wall. Is there any way to get 12v from the amplifier for example? In Addition, is there any way to have the LED's react to the music? Thanks!

Sounds bad, are you sure? Are there other ways to tell if the board is definetly the issue or are my problems enough proof?

Hi, I upgraded my pc to Kaby Lake yesterday, with an Core i5 7600k and an ASRock Z270 Fatal1ty K4 motherboard, now my PC seems haunted. First problem arises with overclocking. The CPU seems to completely ignore my voltage settings. I tested 3 different programs (CPU-Z, Core-Temp and Intel XTU) and they show 3 different core voltages. Also setting voltage to static is not working. Multiplier changes work, but from time to time it resets itself. Second problem is fan control in the UEFI. They are running at 100% all the time, no matter what I do. They are 3 pin fans, but the motherboard says it has a voltage control for its fan headers. Even the PWM fan for the CPU cooler doesn't respond to my changes. In windows I can control the pwm fan with Speedfan which is working, but I can't get Speedfan to start with Windows, I tried to setup a task in the task scheduler, did not work. Third problem: I can't reactivate Windows 10, I connected it to my Microsoft account and it says that this should be possible even after mainboard swap, but all I get is Error, try later. The most disturbing thing; The CPU seems to perform worse at higher clock speeds. At 4.5 GHz I got 637 points in Cinebench, at 4.8 GHz I got between 620 and 626 both after multiple runs. What do you think about all that? Should I do a clean install of windows? Thanks!

I own a Geforce GTX 970 from KFA2, which, in case of my version, the EXOC Sniper, has red LED´s in it´s fans. Now I´m searching for a way to turn these off. Obviously there are no software options for this, and I´m kind of scared to cut wires on the cooler without knowing what I´m doing. Does anyone own the same card and has done this, or can help me with this? Here is a link to this card if needed: http://www.kfa2.com/kfa2/graphics-card/sniper-edition/kfa2-geforce-gtx-970-black-exoc-sniper.html Thanks for your help

I think I can tell which cable is for the gpu and for the cpu. It's definetly a pcie cable. My psu included two of those, and I sleeved one of those. The other one in the box clearly has "vga" written on it, and has also two rounded pins. Ans i forgot to add one thing, when I sleeved one of the cables i bought black connectors, so those are also not right?

I bought a new GTX 970 from KFA2 a few days ago, precisely this one: http://www.kfa2.com/kfa2/graphics-card/sniper-edition/kfa2-geforce-gtx-970-black-exoc-sniper.html As you can see it has a 6-Pin and 8-Pin power connector. The problem now is that the 6+2-pin cable from my PSU (the BeQuiet Power Zone 650 Watt) which I intended to use for the 8-pin connector doen´t fit to the connector on the card. Both pins at the "+2" part of the cable are rounded, while the card has one rounded and one squared pin at that position. Obviously the round parts fit in the squared holes, and thats what happened when I installed it first and the system refused to post. After removing all cables and some troubleshooting I finally witnessed this issue. When the "+2" part is not connected everything works, even overclocked under 100% load when running benchmarks everything is stable. Hope someone can explain this to me. I thought this was a standardized system? Thanks!

I own a R9 280, which was a pretty decent card 2 years ago but now it struggles to hold the framerates at medium settings.

Hi, For some reason my printer, the Samsung CLX 3175, started using wayyy to much toner. The layer of color on the paper is about one millimeter thick, you can feel it when you stroke over the paper. I think it started when I updated to Windows 10. After the installation I installed the drivers with the CD that came with the printer, as I did every time. Then I tried the newest drivers from Samsung´s website, and uninstalled and reinstalled them a couple of times. The only thing I haven´t tried on the software side is to do a fresh installation of Windows. Also, when I change something in the settings, for example the saturation, nothing changes on the paper. I believe it has something to do with my PC/Windows 10, I tested it with two other Notebooks with one running Windows 7 and the other one Linux and everything was fine. Also when I copy something with it it´s also printing normal. I wasn´t sure where to post this question, there seems to be no forum dedicated to printers Thanks for all answers

Do you now how to disable Powerplay? I disabled ULPS (Ultra-Low-Power-State) Mode in AFterburner, still same clock speed.

My Sapphire Radeon R9 280 has started dping really strange things lately, when I´m playing games like Crysis 3 or Battlefield, mostly any game, she reaches 100% utilization after 2 to 3 minutes and stays at this point. At the same time she throttles to 500Mhz (boost clock 965 Mhz). This results in unplayable framerates. I recognized it for the first time when i got my new full hd monitor a few days ago. My old monitor had a 1680x1050 resolution (i´m still using it as a secondary monitor). When im playing games at the old 1680x1050 monitor the same things are happening, but the 500 Mhz can hold the frames at playable rates on the old monitor. I never experienced this before, i got my pc a year ago and did some testing before, where everything seemed OK. Im using MSI Afterburner to monitor temps, utilization and clock speed. My system: Intel Core i5 4570 Sapphire Radeon R9 280 (rebranded HD 7950) Corsair Vengeance 8gb RAM Windows 8.1 Of course I thougt about temps, i set the fans at 50% and the average temperatures are at 50 to 60 degrees, which is not to high. Thanks for all helpful answers!

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