Toasted Waffles

Hello everyone, I'm trying to figure out some gear to either use fiber or something to take my computers signal downstairs to my LG OLED. Me and my wife play games all the time and my new house the office isn't close. All I need is USB and the display I've seen HDMI extenders but only 4K at 60hz and I would prefer an option for support 120hz

Hello everyone! Im moving into my new house in May and am pushing the limits of my current setup and want to adventure into the high tier of switches and networking gear. I need about 30 ports of general gigabyte and prefer if some can run at 10 if possible. I need minimum 4 sfp+ ports or more and maybe if I got lucky qsfp ports for 40gbe. I run servers and file storage and want a strong back bone to use. I'm ok buying used as long as it's software is semi current and also don't mind learning as well I have my main network cabinet downstairs that connects to almost everything then will have a fiber uplink to my office which is where all of our computers are and the 4 servers. ( All quiet and not very loud) I was thinking of running a single fiber line to the office and then just using direct attach to all the machines. The downstairs area isn't big enough to house everything unfortunately So far I've picked out Dell N1548P (95$) Cisco C3850 (120$) Brocade ICX6610-48 (150$)

Here is the video of the flow rate

It's Mystic Fog

I know I have air trapped in my top radiator but have no idea how to bleed it. I belive it's less than 1gpm it's like a trickle coming out back to the res

So I'm having continual issues cooling my 5950X - My 3090ti has no issues and runs overclocked in the high 50s to 60s. My CPU however always thermally throttles when playing games. I have a belief that the extra runs in my loop are slowing down the fluid so it takes longer to get the heat away from the block. Also not sure if it has anything to do with the glass tubing but I don't think so. I do have two 54mm thick 3x120 rads top and bottom. The fluid return on the top of the res is slow flow. I added the picture of the cooling routes for you to see. Idea : replace the run from the top of the gpu straight into the CPU instead of going from the gpu to the distro and then going back to the cpu Water Cooling Specs Cpu Block - EK Velocity GPU Block - EK front and active backplate Tubing - Glass Res - EK Distro Plate Pump - D5 at 100% pwm

So figured it out after a couple of hours and I feel really really really stupid. Somehow my power limit set in EVGa precision x was set to 2% power lol

Underload my cpu sits around 70s and gpu is around 30-40. I havnt down the chipset yet - let me update that and check

Hi everyone, I was forced to update to the 2h22 build and I have been getting like 10-30 fps in any game with my hardware and I'm getting extremely upset. I have DDU the drivers and made sure I had the newest ones. When I do a driver reset the games run fine then when I restart it again it defaults back to like 10-30 fps and severe menu lag. Hardware : 5950X & RTX 3090 Games Age of Empires 4 Snowrunner Warthunder Ready or Not

Thank you, this is what I think I need to do as well. I also emailed into EK to see what they say.

Good Afternoon...... So I recently built a hard line system with a ek Distribution block and I have to set the pump to 100% and even then my cpu starts to throttle. I have two 2x360 rads both 54 mm thick supposed to be able to cool 2300watts each per the manufacture. When I first turned on my system I heard a grinding noise coming from the pump for a few seconds and immediately turned it off . I refilled the res and turned it back on and after about 10 seconds it went away. Now my flow indicator doesn't even move. I can see fluid returning back into the block but it's slow. Do you think the pump is dead? Specs : 5950X w/ 3090 with a active backplate in the loop.

Solved my problem!!!! Realized I made a rookie mistake and populated A1 and B1 and was supposed to load A2 and B2. Now its working just fine.......

So I went to double check everything and I can boot and post with the overclock set. here is a photo Off to the right it shows the 2143 and windows still reports 2133 and hwinfo still showing the 1066

Correct one pack of 2 sticks I updated my bios to the newest version and I setup the overclock on the modules. It shows it stuck in bios and active but in windows still shows only 2133 and 1066 in hwinfo

Let me verify my bios version, was just thinking that. I swapped my ram from my corsair to a Gskill set - Memory Type DDR4 Pin Configuration 288-pin Memory Speed PC4-32000 Memory Speed (MHz) DDR4-4000 Memory Capacity 32GB (2 x 16GB) Memory Channels Dual Number of Modules 2 Voltage 1.4V CAS Latency 18 Memory Latency Timings 18-22-22-42 ECC Non-ECC Buffered/Unbuffered Unbuffered Memory Heatsink Aluminum Heat Spreader LED Color RGB Illumination