RML Futuristics

REQUIREMENT Hi all, so let me get you up to speed with where I am at. I am a professional video editor and graphic designer, in general I freelance, but at the moment I am coming to the end of a multi-year contract with a company. Primarily I do colour correction and animation for them, but I also do a fair amount of photoshop editing too. My previous set up consisted of two Dell 32" Ultrafines, however one of the panels backlights gave up, and the other isnt looking like its long for this world either. As such I am in the market for something new. I find myself using one screen as my primary and a second screen which is just a place for me to store my editing resources, so two 4K screens seems wasteful, so i have decided to try something new and go for a single large format display (43") and then a smaller 27" side screen (portrait). The side screen is no issue, i have a long list of options there, my problem is the main 43" screen. So I am coming to you for help. SITUATION/RESEARCH I have done a bit of research myself and was able to pick up a Gigabyte AORUS FV43U for a good price, however it arrived with some dead pixels so has been RMA'ed. I have also had issues with the fonts on it. When viewed from anything less than dead on, the font looked AWFUL. I have googled everything I could think of, tried windows clear type, as well as the better cleartype tool from Github. Some of which helped, but none of which solved my issue entirely. I know increasing the scaling to 125% would potentially solve the issue, but I lose so much screen real estate, the trade off, doesn't seem worth it. I know this is caused in part by the VA panel and the fact it is using a BGR sub-pixel layout. I am aware I can rotate the screen 180, to help, but i can not express how ridiculous that will look when i have clients sit with me to review their content. I have been looking at both the LG 43UN700 and the Dell offering, that are both IPS, but to my knowledge, they both have the exact same issue as being a BGR sub-pixel and the weird shadow fringing near the edge of the display (when viewed from off centre), so I am reluctant to get either of those. This leads me on to a quandary, what should I do, should I look at instead getting a quantum dot TV with 60/120hz refresh rate, or am I going to have the same issue. Please welcome any help you can provide. TL:DR - > A 43"(or bigger) 4K, colour accurate monitor, that doesn't break the bank, and doesn't have font issues when viewed from anything other than dead on. Tried the FV43U and hated it, should I just get a TV at this point?

I personally use a Razer Naga Epic and love it, its actually wireless but you can just opt to use it as a wired mouse by keeping the wire plugged in and removing the battery. This will also make the mouse overall lighter. Just personal Preference mind, i noticed no one else mentioned a razer mouse... Kind regards, Ryan

Thanks, a good call, but as you said it shouldn't be broken in the first place so I would ideally like to fix it, rather than cover it up. Thanks for the advice

@Dan Castellaneta, You are in agreement with me then, looks like the motherboard has decided that the internet is a dangerous place I Clearly shouldn't be going...lol

Hi All, I hope you can help. So I have a Maximus VI Formula from Asus and have loved it since I bought it, until this morning. So issue I have found is that when I start my PC it shows a limited access warning message in the corner even though I have been connected via Ethernet with no problems since I put the router in. While it shows this limited access, it seems windows doesn't think it has a real internet connection and none of my stuff updates. The really interesting part is in spite of this the internet itself still works, proof is this message as its being typed on the computer with the supposed network issues. Things I have tried to resolve this: Restore Point on Windows 10 to a week ago, Didn't work. Restore Windows 10 back to factory settings, Didn't work. Reformat my system back to windows 8, I managed to get through all the updates all the way to the patching of my system to windows 10 before this cropped up again. Reformatted system back to windows 8 and installed nothing by my Network drivers, Didn't work. Reformatted system back to windows 7 and installed the basic network drives required, once more, didn't work. To confirm I have been using the latest drivers from the website and been reinstalling them at every point to make sure that's not the problem. I have even used the CD drivers just on the off chance they work. Nope. At this stage I really don't know what more to do, I have even changed the Ethernet port of my router I plug into and swapped the cable, even though I know that will make no difference. Right now its looking like its my motherboard but I don't really want to have to spend £180 to buy a VII Hero which is a step down from what i have, if this isn't even the issue. I thought I would also point out the system does usually 'Connect' after a while, but the shortest time for that is 25 minutes, and on this occasion I have been messing with settings for an hour and a half and its still not worked it out. Also it seems that if I use the on board Wifi, that also seems to work with no issues and often kick starts the Ethernet into life, but seeing as how my desk is next to the router I would really rather the hard line connection. I really hope someone can help. Thanks, Mr Ryan.

It depends what you want from a case. For example my Corsair 600t Used to be in gun metal grey, However last year i had her coated in red carbon fibre, now in my opinion she is one of the best looking cases out there, but that is nothing more than my thoughts, you may not agree!

Username: MrRyan Favourite Video: https://www.vessel.com/videos/JYZEYDYx0 Second Favourite Video: https://www.vessel.com/videos/LCoY5zfFf

Thanks for your reply, Your 600T build looks amazing, When she looks this pretty, I dont want to ruin her by modding the case, but i am now thinking the 200mm might be a good move. If i do put a 200 at the front, do they fit the other way up, or do they only fit barbs down? (I have added a picture of her paint job above) Regards, Ryan.

Hi NJHourigan, Best is a matter of perspective, there are sooo many factors you need to consider, do you plan to game on it, do you need a fast refresh rate for example. Or are you a photo or video editor and require true to life colours. Biggest of all, what is your budget as that will make all the difference. I would suggest explain a little more of what you would like and where abouts you live (For currency) and i will be more than happy to try to help. Regards, Ryan.

Hi, I personally use a RM850 watt, which is overkill for my system, however it does mean that even when i game with my machine, the fan never turns on, i love it as it means i can basically turn all my fans off in AI suite and then have no noise from my machine. However that it how I Like it, If the noise doesn't bother you, why waste your money? besides if your other fans are already loud you wont hear the benefit till you replace them, so i would say you are better off doing that and see how load it is after. Thats just my thoughts on the matter, Ryan.

Hi All, Its been a little time since i have been on this site, so i hope you guys are still as awesome as you have always been! I have a Corsait 600T Case, It has huge sentimental Value and 100% Can not be changed. I am looking to make the jump to water cooling (I must be insane) but im just trying to visualise how it will work and radiator placement and locations. I have done a huge amount of Google image searching and am looking to put a 120mm radiator at the back with Push/Pull fans and a 240mm radiator in the top in pull (Due to size restraints). I have seen a lot of people putting a 200mm rad in the front, but im not wild about how it looks. I dont want to do any mods to the case as i only just had it painted last year and i dont want to ruin it. So for 4770K with a Minimal over clock, a GTX 780 Direct CUII and the cooling of my Asus Maximus VI Formula. Will the 120mm and 240mm rads be enough to keep it cool? I want to basically silent my machine down alot and really only have the fans on high when i game. What are your thoughts? Regards, Ryan. EDIT Picture of the Paint Job of my 600T - Red Carbon Fibre by Wicked Coatings

I love the Zotec cards for their wild and crazy designs. If i was lucky enough to win one, I would give it to my other half as she is currently out of work and cant afford to upgrade her HD6770. and the quirky design would be just what her system needed Good Luck Everyone!

Hi Mcmacker4, It doesn't sound stupid, i asked the same question a while back. Each module will run at 1600 MHz, just don't forget you have to change the profile of the kit in the BIOS to make sure they run at the right speed or you might not be getting the performance you pay for. Hope this helps SirDrowHunter

Hi Linus, I found your channel when i first built a custom PC. I found how you built a system amazing to watch, so it then turned into an obsession of how to make my pc look the best it can. Most of my knowledge of computers has come from yourself and this amazing forum and i try and pass that on as much as i can, and i even use some of your little phrases at work. Here's to Linus Tech Tips, Here's to Linus Media Group And here's to the next million subs! Yours, SirDrowHunter

I have a set of headphones and a blue yeti snowball mic - the mic itself is great, however its was one of my poorer decisions, because it picks up every keyboard press like your pounding on a drum, better to get a headset mic/mod mic and headphones if you plan on typing at any point when you are using the mic. yours, Sir DrowHunter