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nicholasfd

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Everything posted by nicholasfd

  1. I am looking into doing some major upgrades to my system this black firday, and was looking at mostly corsair products. I've used a couple keyboards and mice in the past and really, really liked them. What drove me away though was the iCUE software. Last I used of it, it had been majorly updated, and still sucked. Does anyone know if it has gotten ay better? because just about everything RGB and configurable will probably be Corsair. This will be a major let down if their software sucks. Thanks
  2. yes, I will have to look around for something to hide the cables. I will have a hole in the desk, probably not very well placed, because of the outlets on the bottom side taking up a lot of room. I will be able to get them pretty tight up behind the monitors, but not perfect. I have a lot of really long cables, because I was going 10+ feet before with the L desk, now the way I've moved it around, for a third time, probably the way I'll keep it, I will need like 5 footers, so that will keep it pretty clean. I'll have to abandon the idea of the other monitor, and just use a KVM with one of the other monitors, which isn't a big deal, but I wanted to keep the two separated if possible.
  3. The boots have to stay on the plastic mat, which ends about half way under the desk, but goes all the way to the wall, where they're at now. I should move them with the rest of the shoes at my house, but there isn't enough room for a boot dryer there.
  4. I agree, like I said before, I didn't realize a straight desk would feel so much smaller. I moved the monitors over to the other side, just to see how it would be, and its not too bad. I can overhang on the right side significantly more than the left. I forgot to mention that I have another monitor that I want to put back eventually too, for that computer under the desk. As for that little screen you got a picture of, I hardwired a bunch of outlets under the desk, and that is linked to the top enclosure in that rack, and is what controls those outlets. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do for some sort of custom case for it, so its not just out and a loose eyesore like that. I might try with the monitors in the center next.
  5. I am in the process of redoing my setup, and am looking for some input. For reference, my old desk was an L desk, in the corner of my room, and I had my computer tucked right into the corner. We did some renovations on my house, and I wanted to take that space back for my bed, really only leaving one other usable wall for my setup. I had an 8ft X 28in. deep desk made, and mounted it on the wall, not realizing how much extra space that L desk gave me. I temporarily hooked up my computer and monitors. This was starting way back in November, and I've been so busy with work, I finally have a couple days off, and want to get a solid plan in place for it. I have a link to some pictures of what I am working with, and would like some input on what I should to with my tower. The monitors can move to the other side, but I'm not too sure how I'd like that. I plan on building another mini rack, like the one all the way to the left, and putting it next to that one, for my network switch (not the mini one in the picture) and a couple UPS'. Don't mind the mess in the pictures, it is all just temporary. End to end on the monitors is 5'6", and hangs off the edge 8" . All input is accepted. Thanks in advance
  6. The mobile banking app that I use for a new account that I have will not connect through pfsense. I can connect though the network on the WAN side of my pfsense box (pfsense is after a modem and other network for the rest of my house). Using the mobile app, I get a couildn't connect error before I can log in, and if I try to connect through the website after I log in, and before It shows me my account, I get the Connection This site can’t be reached error in chrome. I have a pretty basic configuration in pfsense, and don't get this issue on other networks, and don't really know how to go about fixing this. Thanks
  7. When I was installing the hikvision cameras, they did seem to seal up good, the aluminum just seemed really cheap and soft on the bullet cameras where I had to do a lot of adjusting to get them right. That was one of my only complaints with them.
  8. If they can't be powered by poe, I don't think I am going to use it. They are going outside, and I'm in new england, so leaving a usb cable outside is not an option with our harsh summers and winters, I wouldn't give it more than a few months before I started having issues with it, not to mention, that I'd have to put a plug out there, and they're going under an overhang, and the only way to get power out there is to cut into the sheetrock in my garage, which isn't and option. I can fish a cat 6 cable through a vent to the attic, but not power. Once I'm in my attic, I can get to anywhere on the top floor of my house, and have the poe injectors near my switch. I also looked into the wyze cameras, and they're not quite what I was looking for. These are getting mounted on the overhang, and a dome camera is what will work best under there. I appreciate the insight, but I wanted to stay away from consumer grade products. I don't have the time or patience to deal with them, especially if they fail in the middle of the winter. I like the ruggedness of the commercial grade products, I was in charge of the installation of a decent sized camera upgrade project, we were removing a an old analog bosch system, and putting up a mixture of hikvision and reolink cameras, and they just felt like kids toys compared to the bosch ones. Reolink had reliability issues, and the hikvision ones were made out of really cheap aluminum, compared to the aluminum and steel of the bosch cameras. If I was somewhere with a much more stable weather pattern, I might consider it, but I just can't based on my location.
  9. Thank you, I don't plan on holding months of video data, just maybe a few days, or a week at most. I live in the middle of the country, and we aren't really too worried about security, as there isn't really any crime in my area, never mind break ins, they are just for some peace of mind, and so we can see who is pulling in and out of our driveway and walking around our house. Some of those sony and panasonic cameras are a little bit outside of my price range. I can get those honeywell cameras from jmac supply for about $140. I can also get a 1000 ft box of cat 6 cable for $135, also honeywell wire from jmac supply, I have used it before and like it a lot. I really didn't want to spend more than about $500 on the whole project. I'm an electrician, so I can run and terminate the cables by myself. The only other expense I was really planing on was $70 for blue iris software, and a couple poe injectors. I have a dell poweredge R710 with vmware ESXI, so I can just create a new windows vm and run blue iris on that, and save the footage to the server. I have a 1TB hard drive with practically nothing on it, I could partition half of it for footage from 2 cameras, and that should be plenty. If not, I still have the other half.
  10. I'm looking to put up a couple IP cameras on my house. I was looking at the Honeywell H4W4PER3 or possibly something hikvision if I was going to do a mini dome PTZ, I'm not sure what I want yet. I was wondering if anyone knew if these cameras were any good. I would like to stay around $150-$200 per camera, if anyone has any other recommendations. I was looking at bosch, but they're just too expensive. I was looking at honeywell cameras because honeywell is a fairly well known brand, they're not too expensive, that one has IR, which I need, and know the brand isn't going to disappear next week, and I installed about 20 hikvision PTZ and bullet cameras about a year ago on my old school, and they are still running strong, so I wouldn't mind going with a couple of those, just in mini dome form. I also installed Reolink cameras inside, but those were junk, out of about 40, we had about 5 dead out of the box, and another 10 or so die within a couple days of use, so I'd like to stay away from them if I can, if I'm just going off of price alone, I'd like to stay away from cheap consumer grade cameras. I also wasn't going to go with a standalone NVR, I was going to run Blue Iris or some other software on a VM on my server, if that changes any opinions on the cameras, or if anyone knows of any better ip camera monitoring software with a web interface, feel free to let me know, I was looking at iSpy, but they don't really have a web interface, and what they do have isn't free, so I didn't really want that. Thanks
  11. I was able to get bridged mode working on my linksys router. I will probably purchase some ubiquiti equipment in the future, but I just bought a $100 cisco switch, so I want to use that for a while before I think about getting rid of it, because if I get ubiquiti, I will also be getting a switch so that I can manage all of my devices in one place.
  12. I found out how to do it. It is the EA7300. It runs Linksys Smart Wifi, so I had to go to Connectivity, Internet Settings, then edit the IPv4 connection, and rather than having DHCP, static, or any of the other options, I can select Bridged Mode.
  13. Thanks, I was looking at that card earlier, but I didn't find that netgate article. As long as amazon has a good return policy, I will probably end up getting that card.
  14. I tried that, but I don't think there is an option for just bridged mode. I've looked all over, and tried plugging my wan cable into one of the lan ports, with no luck, but I will look into that again. If I can't get that to work, I will probably just get the wireless card that the person above recommended, then just get some ubiquiti gear in the future
  15. I was thinking about that, but I don't want to spend a ton of money on it, I just wanted a card that I could throw in it and call it a day. I can get a wireless card for $50 or so, but if I go ubiquiti I will be spending at least $100 to match the range of my linksys router. Not to mention that I want to manage everything all in one place.
  16. I got a pfSense box so that I can have a separate network from the rest of my house, so in that case, I use it mostly for it's routing capabilities, rather than for it's firewall capabilities. I currently have a linksys wireless router that I bought a few months back that has been absolutely horrible. Many RMAs, reboots, and factory resets, I am looking to purchase wireless networking card for my pfSense box so that my wireless devices can talk to my wired devices, for exabple, my laptop can't access my shared network drive, and my Windows Server can't see my laptop or phone. I also can't manage my IP's for wireless devices through windows server. I would like to know what people use for wireless cards on pfSense, so I can get an idea as to what to buy, and what to avoid. I would like something 5GHz if possible. Thanks
  17. Thats not exactly what I'm looking for. I want the challange of programming something with the CLI. It has to be 48 port, preferably layer 3, and rackmountable. I just got rid of my cheap desktop switch to be able to move all of my ports over to my dell switch. I was looking at this and will probably end up with it in the end. It's not layer 3, but I can live with that, and has a GUI installed, and I can just not use it. It's quiet, and I'm still looking to see what it puts out for heat compared to my dell.
  18. Its not that I'm not comfortable with the CLI, I want to make sure that I can actually configure it without a whole bunch of certifications and licences.
  19. I'm looking to replace my Dell force10 S60 for a couple reasons. Combined with my dell Poweredge r610, those two heat the entire second floor of my house to about 75°, and going into the summer, that isn't going to be good. Not to mention that it is really loud, and power hungry. I bought it because it was $30, and I needed an upgrade from my HP 100 megabit switch. I need something managed, because I have some vlans that need to be configured. I also would like something layer 3, so that I can interact with connected devices a little more than I can with my S60, which is a layer 2. It doesn't have to be whisper quiet, but I don't want to hear it through the floors of my house. It also needs to have 48 ports. I was looking at some Cisco switches, but I've heard to stay away because they are a pain to program, and some need to be licensed to program, and some don't, while come require certification, and others don't. I was looking at the Cisco WS-C2960S-48LPS-L for $180, but I don't need POE, and feel like I can get more for my money, espically without POE, and only needing 1 Gigabit. Then I found the Cisco WS-C4948-10GE-S, for around $75, and feel that might be a better buy. I'm not obligated to buy cisco though, espically if I need to pay for any software or licensing to get it working, not to mention the lack of documentation that I have been able to find on them. I have what is essentially books on my S60, which walks through pretty much every command you can do on it. I know Dell has some other switches that aren't too loud, use too much power, or put out too much heat, it's just that ebay has been showing me only cisco switched because I clicked on one once ever. I'm fairly ignorant on networking like this, so feel free to tell me if I need a layer 2 switch before a layer 3, or if I'm just completely off on the whole thing. Just looking for some recommendations for right now, if I can find a good enough deal, I might get something now. I'd like to keep it at or around $100. Thanks
  20. I know everything is 12 volts. The fans typically run around 40% all the time, but since noctua fans will run quieter, i'm not worried if these have to run a little faster to keep up with the old ones. The HP fan that I hooked up spun, as if the polarity was right, but didn't register the RPM, so I'm not sure what was going on with that, maybe the rpm sensor is referenced to ground. I think I might buy one to start, then if I can't get it to work, then it's not that big of a deal, but if I can, then I'll try a couple more, then some more after that.
  21. I bought a dell force10 S60, because I was looking for a relatively cheap, yet good, gigabit switch, and I got this on an auction for $20 on ebay. My only issue with it is the noise, which isn't really too bad, but it would be really nice if I could get noctua fans to work with this, and I was curious if anyone has any experience changing them out, or if they know if it will work or not. This is actually the second one that I had, I bricked the first one trying to factory reset it, and now I don't get anything on the CLI. I took apart one of the power supplies on that, and replaced one of the fans with the fan from my old HP 100 megabit switch, and it didn't like that. I don't know if it just didn't like the power supply, because they are different models, the new one is the black one with the Dell logo, and the old one is gray with the force10 logo. I'd hate to blow $90 on fans if they aren't going to work, then pay shipping to return them. Thanks
  22. I would start by going through and delete and re create any raid that your ssd is on, or just wipe the ssd if you dont, then try and install. I am new to pfsense, I got a Dell poweredge r610 the other day for pfsense, and didn't have any issues with it, so that's really all I can give you for advice.
  23. I heard that CyberPower UPSs aren't the greatest, but I have three rackmount 1500VA Cyberpower UPSs, and they are great. I'm not sire if once you get a decent one out of the batch, it will work wonders, or if their rackmount "commercial" UPS's are built to a higher standard to consumer UPS's, but in the heat of the summer, I hear the relays in them bumping the voltage all the time, to ensure i'm getting clean power. I did have a power button on one fail, but they were very quick to get me a replacement. I'd recommend Cyberpower any day of the week, If I'm misinformed, or have had an awkwardly good experience, let me know. My UPS's are loaded to 100-300 watts., and I can get about an hour and a half, to 2 hours of runtime.
  24. I used an Antec Edge 550W for around 4-5 years, and it was flawless. If you will be looking for aftermarket cables, now or in the future, you might be out of luck with this power supply. I was told that antec uses a weird standard for connectors. Personally, I would go with something higher wattage if you can get a decent deal, simply because I'd rather "be looking at the watts then looking for them". I put a 1000W Corsair RM1000I, just simply because it was rated decently, and on a good sale. That powers a GTX 1070TI, Core i5 7600K, 2 mechanical hard drives, and 2 SSDs
  25. This is very unfortunate. He made his video, attacking linus personally, asking for Linus' response. Linus made his response, and carey thinks he's lying. I currently am watching his stream, and claims he is going to be taking linus to court. He is telling the mods to ban everyone who isnt on his side. Thankfully, I got my opinion in before he started. What a shame. I have been a supporter of his for a long time.
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