BenTan
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Thanks for chiming in. Have you considered trying a different Fibre optic HDMI cable to confirm that it's an issue with Nvidia cards? Have you also tried playing around with the Nvidia color settings by changing the colour format from RGB to YCbCr? I recently tried connecting a 10m HDMI cable which I had on hand and had no issues displaying the cable. I have yet to purchase a Fibre optic HDMI cable though.
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Hi, I'm looking for a wireless Keyboard and Mouse for gaming in my living room from the couch. One caveat is my PC will be in a separate room 10-15 feet away from where my couch is. My concern is the keyboard / mouse losing their signal during usage since the signal will be travelling through a wall about 4-5 inches thick. I'd like to avoid using a USB extension if possible, reason being, I already have an ethernet cable routed through the doorway and will be routing a HDMI cable on top of that. So I'd like to keep the number of cables to a minimum. A low profile, tenkeyless keyboard would be preferable for comfort. Any recommendations or pointers would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Assuming I decide to go with a 30m HDMI cable? What would my best option be? I'm seeing different types of HDMI cables like 'amplified', 'fibre-optic', etc.
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Pretty sure consoles like the PS4 Pro and Xbox One X pass a 4K, 60Hz signal with a chroma subsampling of 4:2:0 and have shown pretty good results with HDR in games like Horizon Zero Dawn and Days Gone.
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Can I still drop down to 4:2:0 10 bit to get 4K, 60Hz, HDR? I found this table on another forum:
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Surely this can't be true? Otherwise the ASUS PG27UQ or the Acer Predator X27 wouldn't exist. I was able to get a HDR signal from my PC to my Samsung CHG70 at 1440p 144Hz.
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Thanks for the input. I've tried using a 10m high-speed HDMI cable in the past but I couldn't get a display on my TV. So I'm worried about using a cable that's even longer. If I'm going to run 4k 60Hz 8bpc, Will I need to change any settings in my Nvidia control panel? And will HDR in games still work in this mode?
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I'm pretty sure Dynamic HDR metadata only applies to some movies? Like I mentioned, I'm using it only for HDR games.
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Hi, I'm looking to get a 30m HDMI cable to connect my PC (bedroom) to my LG C8 TV (living room). The HDMI Cable needs to be able to transmit a 4K, 60Hz, HDR signal without issue. The HDMI cable will be used mostly for HDR gaming on my LG C8. I'm currently looking at this cable: http://www.dynamix.co.nz/Y-C1031BK but other suggestions would be appreciated. It would also be great if some of you with similar experience could chime in on this. Thanks
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Artifacting, crashing and black screens during gaming/stress-testing
BenTan replied to BenTan's topic in Troubleshooting
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Hi, I made a post 2 months ago about having issues with powering up my PC and experiencing crashes during gaming without any overclocks. Since then, I've replaced the motherboard and PSU. However, I still experienced random crashes in the form of black screens and artifacting during gaming and normal use (web-browsing, music, etc). I suspected, it was the graphics card, so I tried a spare card and the issues stopped. I issued an RMA and EVGA sent me a replacement graphics card. There was no more crashing while browsing windows and it could run the Firestrike stress test without crashing, so I assumed there were no more faults with the system and decided to start overclocking my CPU. My 5820K managed to run the RealBench stress test for 2 hours at 4.6Ghz, 1.3V with temperatures staying in the high 60s to low 70s. I ran the test again with XMP enabled but failed, so I tried different CPU SA voltages - 1.02, 1.03 and 1.04 with no luck. The stress tests would fail in the form of a black screen. I decided to try the same overclock with TW3 and it crashed within the first 5 minutes, showing artifacting before crashing. I eventually reverted all settings to stock but still crashed. I then tried Unigine Heaven and it crashed during the first loop, showing artifacts before black screening. I'm thinking the CPU or Memory could be faulty since I've just about replaced everything else. I've tried running memtest86 but it found 0 errors. This leaves the CPU but can a faulty CPU cause artifacting? I'm also thinking EVGA did not really replace the card when I RMA'd it but rather sent me the same card. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Specs: CPU: i7 5820K Motherboard: MSI X99A Raider (previously MSI X99S SLI Plus) Memory: Kingston HyperX Predator 4x4GB, 2400Mhz Video Card: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition PSU: Silverstone Strider Titanium 800W (Previously Cooler master V1000)
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Apparently, the line in works as line out when the O2 is powered off. Didn't know that, thanks. So, let me understand this correctly. When you use the line in as a line out, would this be the equivalent of using RCA ports at the back? EDIT: It's a little confusing to me as my initial impression of the line in was to use the amplifier independently of the DAC.
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Hi, Does anyone have any experience with using the O2+Odac as a preamp for the JBL LSR30X or LSR305? I own the first revision of the Mayflower O2+ODAC combo without the RCA ports at the back, so I'm wondering if I could hook up the JBL LSR30X with the line out at the front. I asked this question to JDS Labs and this was their response: I honestly don't know if he's exaggerating so I thought I'd come here for some second opinions. I'm thinking of adding RCA ports to my O2+ODAC unit so I don't have to go through the hassle of unplugging my headphones every time I use the speakers. But if there isn't going to be an audible improvement in sound quality, I might not add the RCA ports, since I'm gonna have to ship it back to Mayflower to add the RCA ports and it'll take a while to get back to me. Thanks in advance
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Unfortunately, it seems that the issue is still occurring even after swapping the CMOS battery. There are random occurrences where I cannot power on the PC after shutting down and flipping the PSU switch off and back on powers on the PC. What is the meaning of the CMOS button at the back of the motherboard lighting up? This tends to happen when I press the power button after shutting down and nothing happens.
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UPDATE: Replacing the CMOS battery seems to have resolved the issue of powering on the PC, though it seems weird that the battery was the issue. I've also been noticing this behaviour. When I save BIOS settings and reset, the PC seems to power off and power back on. I notice this from the GPU lights where it would turn off after save and reset and turn back on. Is this normal behaviour? With the old CMOS battery, it would just shut off without powering back on.
