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jellybutt

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  • Gender
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System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 1700x
  • Motherboard
    MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon
  • RAM
    G.Skill Flare X DDR4 16GB 3200Mhz
  • GPU
    Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
  • Storage
    840 Pro 256, 850 EVO 500, 980 1TB, WD Green 1TB, Seagate 3TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850
  • Display(s)
    Acer S243HL
  • Cooling
    bequiet! Dark Rock Pro 3
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G815 Tactile
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 569 + Bose Syncom
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro N 64b
  • Laptop
    Asus N56V
    Dell Latitude e6430
    Toshiba L650-12Z
    MSI CR700
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Thank you for your input and suggestions. Small correction on the case: it only has 1 included fan. The webshops' product page was wrong (doesn't have 3). I went with the following: CPU: AMD 5600G (130,90 EUR) with iGPU + stock Wraith Stealth Motherboard: Asus Prime B450-A II (68,45 EUR) Memory: Corsair DDR4 Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3200 C16 CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 (46,99 EUR) Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 500GB NVMe (57,83 EUR) Case: Sharkoon VS9 (44,90 EUR) Power Supply: Corsair CX550 CP-9020277-EU (59,90 EUR) Extra cooling fan: Gelid Solutions Silent 12 PWM (7,90 EUR) Total: 416.87 EUR Total minus extra fan: 408.97 EUR All bought at the same webshop for convenience. I went with the B450 instead of the A520M because of increased I/O, 4 DIMM slots, heatsink on chipset and VRMs, BIOS Flashback button and a little bit more headroom for future use (by me) (processor / OC). Price was about the same. Also, going by the Motherboard Tier List on this forum, the chosen B450 is slightly better than the A520Ms I had selected / are available in this pricepoint. Runs very well, better than I had expected. I ran Cinebench 2024 for 20 minutes continuously with stock cooling profile (no background processes, no internet, stock W10 OS, no driver or chipset updates installed yet aside from the newest BIOS version). The CPU hotspot temperature would not go over 77 Celcius (20 Celcius room) and wasn't extremely loud. The score was 590, in line with the reported average for this CPU. No artifacts or other issues detected. Remarks on my experience with this Sharkoon VS9 case so far (excluding available general specifications and included items) + Finish is pretty good for this price point, can't find any badly covered/sprayed/coated areas + Tolerances and fit are OK to good, to be expected from this pricepoint + Material thickness of all components is average to thin, but OK to work with and to be expected from this pricepoint + Stiffness of barebones frame is average, but not terrible + Included 120mm fan isn't loud / doesn't rattle; average to silent + Plenty of cable management room (back of motherboard) and routing cutouts + Plenty of space for PSU (and non-modular PSU cable storage) + PSU separated with cover panel + Front panel is easily removed to access mesh filter; no attached cables + Spare mounting hardware (screws etc.) / Average on cable tie mounting spots / Far too big for a mATX build / A bit wide / Includes several extras with mounting hardware, such as washers, but no idea what they're for. See negative point on the 'manual'. Based on the amount and size, I'd say for the motherboard screws, but you'd increase electrical insulation of motherboard-to-ground by using these. I didn't. - TERRIBLE manual, if you can even call it that. Both the currently available (as of day of writing) datasheet as manual don't include any information on the case and mounting hardware, besides generic specifications and images of SSD/HDD and AIO loop mountings. Also, NO paper manual - PSU vibration / resting rubbers are positioned for longer PSU's, not shorter ones like the CX550. Can be peeled off and re-positioned, but not as firmly as the original position (small ridge, only 70% will be stuck to steel on new/other spots) - Ratio of open and closed surface area of top panel ventilation is pretty bad. Probably OK for exhaust, not for intake - Front panel ventilation holes only line up for full ventilation for the middle fan, the bottom and top fan positions only have 50% intake area (the other 50% is closed off / solid, despite the visual pattern indicating otherwise) - No CD/DVD bay / cutout - Mine seems askew/warped. Tends to wobble, even with all components installed. No obvious damage or height difference of case feet General conclusion: I respect the corners they 'rounded' (no real corner-cutting, IMO) in order to offer this case. It is a solid option as a low-budget case, pretty well rounded. I wouldn't trust it to handle a lot of (overhanging/mounted) mass / objects though. Kind regards, JB
  2. Budget (including currency): 420-ish EUR ex. OS licence Country: Netherlands Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Basic workstation (email, browsing, text processing). Little to no storage used (30GB or so for personal files) Other details The current system is an HP Slimline 260-A180ND (Intel J3060, 4GB, HDD) with W10, bought new for 330 EUR about 6 years ago (a scam IMO). Dear reader, TL;DR: I would like advice on the motherboard choice and opinions on the case(s), optional are verification of SSD for boot and PSU choice. Currently picking parts for a workstation build, for a senior (90+). The current PC is not usable anymore in terms of responsiveness and loading times. A clean install did not help. I have researched and selected medium to good low-budget parts to the best of my abilities, especially on the PSU and SSD front. I have offered to find a prebuilt or build this person a new system. I have looked at prebuilts / manufacturer systems such as Lenovo IdeaCentre 3 07IAB7 i5-12400, HP Pavilion TP01-2055nd AMD Ryzen 5-5600G and Lenovo IdeaCentre 5 i5-12400, all between 500 and 550 EUR. They're probably not bad, but I can't do any servicing other than the RAM, if there ever is a problem (see disassembly videos). I am the person they call for tech support. Plus, I'd rather assemble a system with parts I know are of somewhat decent quality, as well as industry standard interfaces and form factors. I don't want to risk the lower tier systems (300-400 EUR). I keep some future-proofing in mind (larger/better than necessary PSU, SSD, CPU) for both ease of mind reasons, as well as the fact that I might buy/recieve this system in a few years if they don't need/can't use a PC anymore. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LGHWwg Current selection (give or take a few EUR per item): CPU: AMD 5600G (130 EUR) CPU Cooler: stock (wraith stealth) Motherboard: A520M or B450, no model selected yet (65-ish EUR) Memory: Corsair DDR4 Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3200 C16 CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 (45 EUR) Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 500GB NVMe (58 EUR), or anything with DRAM and pref. no QLC Video Card: iGPU Case: Sharkoon VS9 (45 EUR) Power Supply: pref. Corsair CX550 CP-9020277-EU (60 EUR); alt: Cooler Master MWE White 450/550W 230V V2 (60EUR, same price) (yes it's overkill, but not many >C tier 350W and 450W available + no massive price difference) OS: Most likely W10 to avoid change of environment, probably without license to save 110-ish EUR. Connectivity: USB mouse, USB keyboard, USB printer. Extra I/O on top is desired (for USB sticks etc.). CD drive not needed, but optional. Panel is VGA now, but supports DVI and HDMI. Total: 400-ish EUR 1. Motherboard: mainly picked A520M for the price, as the user needs no real features of B450/550. I can't really find any in-depth reviews or comparison tests for the A520M boards. Some B450M boards are around the same price, but I've read that you may be better off with the A520M in terms of up-to-dateness and quality (low end B450 vs low-mid A520M for that price range). Selection: MSI A520M-A PRO (63 EUR) Gigabyte A520M H 1.0 and Gigabyte A520M K V2 (65 EUR) Asrock A520M-HDV (60 EUR) MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX (67 EUR) (4 DIMM slots) (new BIOS compatible with 5600G) Asrock B450M-HDV R4.0 (60 EUR) (new BIOS compatible with 5600G) 2. Storage: I've searched for a TLC SSD with DRAM, as it will be the boot and only drive in the system. Any other suggestions, or is this one OK for the system's purposes? 3. Cases: Not many options. I selected the following, but chose the Sharkoon for now for its fans, neutral styling, ventinaltion, no glass and I/O location. Aerocool Hexform Mini Tower Micro ATX (for the extra fans and open ventilation style), was 50 EUR but jumped up to 70 EUR. Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L (least desirable, I/O on the side) DeepCool MATREXX 30 Mini Tower Micro ATX (only 1 fan, but CD bay) Sharkoon VS9 (for extra fans and no glass, a big plus; downside is its quite large) Would love to hear your input on the motherboard choice, verification of PSU and SSD for boot and opinions on the case(s). Thank you in advance. Kind regards, JB
  3. Apologies for the late reply. Thank you for your suggestion. I've uninstalled the drivers via Settings > Apps & features > Touchpad driver and verified with Device manager. That did not make a difference however. I also uninstalled drivers for a listed PS/2 Compatible Mouse device, but I suspect that does not change things. Rebooted after each action, of course. Neither option restored full functionality however. Or are there other bits I need to uninstall at different places / via other panels?
  4. Dear reader I have a problem with a Dell Latitude e6430. Its trackpad is not working correctly in Windows 10. Near the outer edges it seems to respond, but at its center (85% of the surface area) it is terrible and unusable. At first I thought it was hardware failure, but all cables are properly attached. I noticed that it does work in Linux environment (Ubuntu). I recently found this out by accident, as I used the Linux terminal to set the keyboard lighting from max 30 seconds on to max 12 hours on (using the XPS 15 9550 method). My suspicion, therefore, lies with (Windows) drivers (conflicts). I have tried the following: - updating the current version via device manager - removing and reinstalling touchpad drivers via device manager (rollback not possible) - manual installation of Dell-Touchpad-Driver_86M99_WIN_10.3201.101.212_A07 - cleaning and reseating the cables - cleaning the touchpad - fresh Windows install All without improvement unfortunately. I have attempted to find "Touchpad-solution from synaptic" as suggested on other web sources, but I am unable to find the software that is referred to ...? Is there a way to resolve this, either via the Windows or Ubuntu / Linux environment? Kind regards, JB
  5. Thank you for your addition. Are you able to provide a picture of the exact component you are talking about? I might give it a go once I know what you mean. EDIT: The 'white gear wheel' that is referred to is part of a FAT PS2 disc tray and laser unit, it is not present in the Slim edition. Therefore, the abovementioned suggestion does not apply to the Slim variant. More info:
  6. Update. I have tried using the 4ukey software; it is basically just a pre-packaged combination of a checkra1n tutorial requiring manual installation, followed up by an integrated Passfab iPhone Unlocker attempt. Unfortunately, it gave an error when attempting the iCloud bypass (the error title reveiling the software they use, which is Passfab). I tried Passfab separately, which coincidentally has the same UI, same sponsored articles on C-tier websites and even same "buy now" buttons. In other words, probably the same developer. This also does not work, saying that the installed Apple Driver (basically, it installs iTunes and removes it afterwards) is not working correctly and updating it failed. Conclusion: don't rely on this method working. I was not really expecting it to do so given Apple's protection nowadays, but it was worth a try. I have seen some other software options, but those require a Mac system (which I don't have and don't care for to figure out how it works in a virtual machine). I am not going to attempt NAND or logic board replacement, the phone is not worth the monetary or time investment. I will do a clean install of the PC I was using, just to be sure (company registration says its US based, but other sources state China). I would advice people, future readers, to not attempt using the software. Or at least, don't pay for it (the scam part is the 30-day trial refund). Fortunately, I can still use the device. Just not with any sort of Apple ID / server related functions. I can use checkra1n / cydia to sideload some apps. Not a complete brick / bookstand at least, but still not ideal. Thanks for the input.
  7. I never said anything about region locked, I said it accidentally was bound to the UK instead of my own country. I had set the language to English instead of my own (easier for looking up things during tutorials etc.), but forgot to change the region back to my own country. Furthermore, as mentioned in the first post, I already contacted Apple (see the last two points). To clarify more on the region thing: they verified that there is a bug that does allow you to change the region, but it will not actually register the change and the change you made reverts back to the previous state. The technician was not able to explain why, as he was not a 'senior advisor' and connecting me to one to find out why would have resulted in a long waiting time (plus it would not have made any difference anymore). The real problem is, that I have never received the 12-digit code in the related email, as I should have (which was verified by the Apple advisor). Also, as I mentioned, this NOT my phone. It is a hand-me-down, of which the person I got it from purchased it as second-hand from his relative. I have asked for any type of receipt or documentation of ownership, without results. Which is required for the 'last resort' type of recovery done by Apple. Furthermore, I stated that I personally deleted my OWN testing Apple ID, which you could not do if you'd have no access to either the phone login credentials (PIN, fingerprint etc.) or the login credentials to the Apple ID (as that can only be done via the website). I have no value in you believing me or not, that is up to you. I value your input and time. But don't twist my words and / or make statements that are factually incorrect.
  8. Yeah, the Trustpilot reviews for example seem to be fake reviews (mostly 1-review accounts and similar grammar style). The ones that do seem real, are mostly 1-star. The free version is not really free, as can be read in those 1-star reviews (basically a questionable 30-day refund policy). I am using a "paid" version (harhar). Articles and editorials, i.e. promoted articles on this topic, also reek of standard PR / marketing pre-written talking points (e.g., the wording "100% legit" or "100% safe" can be found in every independand blog-style review websites). Some acknowledge to be sponsored by it. They indeed claim to be able to unlock without IDs etc., in reality the program itself gives you a warning that it basically jailbreaks and resets the device in order to skip the signing in stuff (so no 'magical' coding). I am also expecting that they deploy malware at the same time, but not sure about that. I also tried other (very) similar software solutions, but those only worked till IOS 11 or something. I guess I will give it a go, as I have nothing to lose and it is not a phone used for private stuff (basically no valuable information to phish / phone-home). Thanks for the input. I will post the results.
  9. Thank you for the reply. I have briefly researched jailbreaking methods, but most state that you must still be able to log into the Apple ID account and / or it's "Find my phone" feature to be switched off (for iTunes accessibility for reset). Hence my use of third-party pre-packaged software solutions. But if I am ill-informed about this (I am not really knowledgeable on jailbreaking), and installing a jailbreak method of some sorts does NOT require Apple ID verification etc., I am eager to be corrected and / or referred to said methods. It would be great if jailbreaking does not break certain features with offered methods. I am not referring to DYI methods, but pre-packaged solutions such as Tenor 4ukey (or 4mekey, whatever they call it) that override the need for Apple ID verification for jailbreaking. These / this one states to basically jailbreak it, with the high chance that it will break the cellular services etc. I am not aware of which jailbreaking method and version they use. My precaution is simply related to me wondering if those effects (related to that software solution) would be restored after unjailbreaking it (back to stock IOS) via the iTunes recovery method. In other words, should I not be worried about which version that software solution uses and trust on the idea that the mentioned services-breaking consequences will be restored to functional use after an iTunes recovery reset (unjailbreak after jailbreaking)?
  10. Dear reader, TLDR: Certain third-party apps allow you to reset the phone without Apple-ID. They warn about technically jailbreak the device, likely breaking cellular services along the way. I was wondering if a successive unjailbraking might restore the device to its full capabilities, undoing the jailbreaking negative consequences. I have succeeded in semi-locking myself out of an iPhone SE (2016) running IOS 12.4.1 by deleting the connected Apple ID, which was my testing account. I had to delete the Apple-ID as a last resort, due to it being accidentally region bound to the UK instead if my own country, which resulted in several unusable services and uninstallable region-locked apps. I was unable to change this region via the phone menu (settings loop of having to log in without change) or via the Apple-ID website. Little did I know that this minor problem turned into something far worse. I have run out of official ways to reset the phone, I am now resorting to third-party options. To clarify: - Settings > Phone reset is not possible; Apple ID login required (which is deleted) - iTunes recovery reset is not possible; 'Find my phone' is on and requires Apple ID login to change (which is deleted) - Official Apple customer service is unable to re-activate the deleted Apple-ID; no account deletion 12-digit code available / received (which you should get, but alas) - Official Apple customer service is unable to re-activate the deleted Apple-ID; no purchase receipt, as it was second-hand for previous owner + pass-me-down to me I received this phone as a hand-me-down gift for doing pandemic work at family friends. I use it for learning the IOS environment for social services (Repair café etc.) and general knowledge building for questions I receive as as the 'techie' person (I do not use IOS myself for daily use). While it being partly my fault, as I was unaware / uninformed of this account-linking issue (I did not get a warned about this during the deletion process), I refuse to let this phone be an ususable brick due to the absolutely rediculous (but understandable from a property-stealing point of view) restrictions Apple has put in place, accompanied by severely understated warnings about the consequences (if not done correctly). Certain third-party apps allow you to reset the phone without Apple-ID, which I think is the only option I have left. However, they also warn you that they technically jailbreak the device, likely breaking cellular services along the way. I was wondering if a successive unjailbreaking might restore the phone to its full capabilities, or if these jailbreaking consequences are permanent. Or does someone perhaps have a better solution? Thank you in advance. Kind regards, JB
  11. Thank you. I had it set to metered, but I hadn't thought about a VPN bypassing this (which I am using) plus the fact that I wasn't expecting it to block those, even if metered. As I've experienced otherwise with another system that had its network set to metered and still updated (excluding security updates of course). I am also reading similar experiences online about it. Is it certain that this should disable optional 'experience(?)' and/or feature updates? I will try the registry and GP edits then, thank you. Thank you, will take that into consideration. Security updates were and are not disabled.
  12. Dear reader, After Windows decided to promptly bluescreen and feature-update my system; inside working hours; unannounced with no warning; while I was actively using the system, I am looking into options to take over manual control over their ridiculous updating policy and practices. Furthermore, I do not wish to partake in the Russian roulette that is "Will this update brick my system+data or not?" I had thought that using Debotnet scripts would work (ran scripts in both user and administrator privileges), but it apparently didn't. I am using Windows 10 Pro N, version 1809. My setting is on a delay on feature updates for 365 days. I have found several methods and software (some links may contain the same), but I am not certain if they still work or not. Most seem not really updated on their effect (e.g., updates stop at ±2018): (1) https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1133684-stopping-windows-from-auto-updating/?tab=comments#comment-13122271 (accompanying software): https://winaero.com/comment.php?comment.news.1836 (2) https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/954195-ten-different-ways-to-stop-block-or-disable-windows-update-in-windows-10-updated-sept-2018/?tab=comments#comment-11593102 (3) https://www.wintips.org/how-to-turn-off-windows-10-updates-permanently/#part-2 (4) https://www.mirinsoft.com/ms-apps/debotnet Do any of you have experience with any of the aforementioned methods, either in comments or the described ones, or perhaps can provide one that I did not list here? What would work best? Cheers, JB
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