RicY

Maybe the pump itself is dead. Can you hear it buzzing?

In August 2017 I bought mine ref.pcb 1080Ti at caseking.de for 729€. 2 days later it was up to 789€ and by friday (2 more days) it was already 819€. So snatched it for cheap.

Poor mans gaming phers updated. Love every cent spent on them

For me all went honky-dory. I use that FE edition block. Had no isssues with mounting it. Even had them apart for cleaning after a little mishap with fluid, went back together with no problem at all. So overall, If you like them for the looks, I'd recomennd them all 100%.

They are copper based blocks. Those aluminium accent peaces dont come in contact with coolant. I myself use Phanteks Glacier blocks for my R5 1600 and GTX1080Ti.

Everything looks ok here. This is really strange, that so much rad space gives so high temps (for reference you can check J2C video on that poseidon card performance). If you are up for some testing - Try the pump all by itself to see how it is pushing liquid. If it seems a-ok (D5 shoul move A LOT), add in gpu in the loop. If it checks out good too, keep adding components to see if there is any significant flow drop after any of them. Just when testing, keep the bucket somewhere in the level of the pump or even better - as high as highest point in your system, so there is no gravity to help pump.

Actually D5 is a beast of a pump. It should not have any problems pushing your loop. I'm running a cheaptastic Magicool pump-res for like 40$ to cool a R5 1600, GTX 1080Ti and 240mm and 360mm slim Magicool rads and using Arctic F12 fans for 5$ a pop. If the fans run like 800-900rpms I get my 1080ti to 45-46c at full tilt (Forza 3 at max, The Division at max). Maybe you could post pics of your loop, so we can see whats up.

It depends on the case, what screws are used. I've had case that use M3 thread sized standoffs and screws for MB, but another one used those 'murican 6/32" UNC type standoffs and screws. So its really a gamble to know what screws to use, but most commonly theese are the two styles used in pc's(from my experience) - M3 and 6/32".

Pretty much any tubing with 10/16mm or 13/19mm ID/OD is as kink-ressistant as soft tubing goes.

Amen to that Maybe the 18$ parts are those phesant plasitc ones? Caseking offers Lux' s for 20€ 140mm ones and 18€ for 120mm ones. But yeah, my pc never costed more that that 1080ti I got for 729€ :cry: :1st_world_problems:

I'm currently thinking of using the 160 or 220 too, but combo'd with a pump, so that is 200€ for ya Even tho that chineesium Magicool pump works wonders and is silent like a dead kitten Since Igot Phanteks case, there is no way I'm not using their stuff for watercooling too. Ihmo their blocks are high flow too, since there are no fancy jet plates. And cleaning is easy AF, I managed to F up quite a bit with coolant/tubes and it gunked up both blocks with slime like residue. Cleaned everything, poured in some blue antifreeze, since it had the color I liked and been running problem free for 4+ months now (old coolant gunked in like 1 month). And I considering going for Phanteks Halos + fittings, but man, so much money for the looks only

Ok, I get that smaller = cheaper, but smaller =/= cheaper. I agree on that it has no iGPU, but there are those awfull APU's from the dark ages of AMD laying around reworked for AM4. Maybe there is hope for AM4 APU's soon enough to kickstart ITX boards, since mobile is getting those Vega's. Lets wait and see.

I bit the bullet and bought Phanteks blocks for my cpu & gpu. Man, they are awsome. Build quality is on par. Even has built in RGB On my whislist is now the Phanteks reservior. Love that industrial look. Soething like Heatkiller style.

Maybe try caseking.de I've ordered all my W/C stuff from them and some hardware too, since I live in a shit hole where being an enthusiast pc user, you get looked at like a nerd with no life, hence the shortage on local supplies.

So in theory E-ATX should be cheaper than mITX?