Gmac

Linus, Good god has it been a long time since I have logged into this. I can't believe it has been 10 years since the last time I log into this forum. I have a lot less hair on my head and a lot more on my face. You grow up and life gets busy. Never stopped watching and enjoying it, however. I just wanted to express I hope you have an open mind about all of this. I am happy you have found so much success in life. It certainly was never a lack of working hard or doing the right thing. You are at a point where you, your kids, and your grandkids would never have to work another day of their lives. I am glad for you on that. You have earned it. Just don't forget how you got to where you did. I have just watched your company turn into exactly what you built it not to be. I certainly don't want to pretend I understand what it is like to be you or make the decisions you have to make on a daily basis. I didn't even realize how bad it has gotten until today. I use to turn to Linus for everything around my hobby. It wasn't until today that I released when it was time to build a new PC this year. I didn't even look at your content. That made me really sad. I hope you are able to face this head-on like you always do and come out a better person for it. Just make sure you keep an open mind to those who want the best for you. I just want you to hear it from a long-term fan. George

Good god i sure hope i win

I would add something to keep algae from growing inside your loop. What you have linked will work more then fine. I personally use a silver kill coil.And no it wont change the color in your loop. Only use 1 or 2 drops.

I am glad ghost got you. But ya Mayhem makes awesome coolants. I plan to try them one day.

Sorry for my slow response. So here is what i understand about this nickel and silver debate. Company's such as Koolence and EK both state in their polices that you should not mix silver and nickel in a loop. Likewise both of these companies have had problems and sometimes still do about the nickel on their blocks flaking. There is all kinds of anecdotal evidence about peoples running loops for years with these two mixed and not having a problem. People saying that after six months there whole system is blogged up and ruined. However the problem with anecdotal evidence is that it is not evidence. So from what i understand you shouldn't have a problem from have a small amount of silver mixed with nickel. I am unaware of any reaction that will happen between these two. What i do think happens is some companies are known for making blocks that are not of the highest quality control. And that some block will have problems no matter what. So with all that being said it is in my opinion that if you own a block from a manufacturer that clearly states in their policy not to mix silver and nickel. Such as Koolence. Dont do it. For the sole reason that if something does happen they will not support or replace anything that has had silver running in it. But should you be worried to put a small piece of silver in a loop? No.

I am done with my cross country move. Sorry for my lack of work and answering of questions but i should have everything up to date in a few days.

Surface area is king. Pure and simple. You can use the volume equation (LxWxH) to approximate the surface area of any given radiator. Dont forget to factor in FPI. Thin Rads tend to have a higher FPI and the opposite is true or thick ones. This is all kind of a moot point however. For most people a good compromise between noise and performance is king. If this is you choice the largest rad that will fit with a medium to thin thickness. Par it with some high quality fans running at a low rpm. If you want the best possible performance get the largest, thickest highest, biggest FPI possible. Crank the fan RPMs as high as possible. Do the opposite if you want the quietest set up possible. TL;DR Pick something in the medium to thin side. If you need more cooling potential add another rad later.

Gotta agree. Thinker rad with a good SP optimized fans.

Nothing will ever top the 10 hour Linus Arm Flail. I lost it at 7:32:12 mark.

Cool when the edit function is working again ill add it.

H110. It is a double 140mm. The H100 is a double 120mm.

Thanks i will add them

The one advantage from buying a kit is that you get a lot of the smaller parts for free. More of less at least. If you add up all the large parts like pump, block, rad, ect. It will pretty much be the same as if you were just to buy them separately. When you buy a kit the fittings, tubing, often a kill coil is free. Well kind of free. In less confusing way. It is slightly less expensive to buy a kit. It wont brake the bank to do it your self however.

That is a good point

With the Corsair and the Kraken you will get performance very close to a high quality air cooling. I think in part why they are so popular these days is because it is considered cool to have a water cooling system. These are very affordable and very easy to use compared to a custom loop. The to XSPC kits will give you about the same idle temps as one of the closed system but your load temps will be fantastic. Under a modest OC you can expect temps in the 40-50 range depending on your ambient temps. Possibly even lower depending on your setup as a whole. I think it is pretty safe to say that with a good water cooling set up you will hit a voltage cap on your CPU long before you will hit a temperature cap. You should know that when it comes to cooling just a CPU that the RX 240 and the EX 420 will give you about the same performance. You really shouldnt expect to see any real load temperature difference. However what the 420 will allow you to do is upgrade and add just about any blocks you want into a loop. A Rad like that will give you enough head room to cool a CPU, a couple of GPUs and a mobo or mosfets or something along those lines. A D5 pump is one that will never need to replaced as long as it stay in good operating condition. If you are really interested in doing water cooling. Save your money, plan very far ahead, and do it right the first time.

20 feet of tubing is way more than enough. Give you plenty to mess up with, also if you add more blocks you wont need to buy any. I think that angled fittings are pointless unless you are making very tight turns in your loop. However a lot comes down to what aesthetics and what you want to spend.

It certainly can be. Make sure you leave enough extra tubing so you can slide the res in and out of the bay easily.

Sorry for my lagging in posting. To you question from before. No i dont think you can get the fans to pull in the front of the case and have the HDD trays still pull out from the right side of the case. You can change the which way the fans blow; from the left, the right, or the front. The HDD trays will always be behind which ever way you mount the fans. I almost bought a In Win. I really liked the look of it and the fact that it could hold a triple rad in the top. However i chose the Trooper over it for one reason. The blue windowed sided panel. I have a red and black system and wanted the black case. However it made no sense to me why the window was tinted blue. It was the ultimate reason i didnt go for the case.

I personally dont know of any block for the MSI Mpower. I did a quick google search and could not find anything either. However this doesnt mean that there isnt somethign that could be used for your board. You will need to do the research and see what people have gotten to work. There is probably not a full cover mobo block but that doesnt mean you couldnt find something for the mosfets or volt regs. As for what water blocks and tubing you will need is why i wrote the sticky. But i can honestly tell you what you pick is going to be up to your discretion. Most products perform in a very similar to one and another. If you have any specific questions i am more then happy to help. And if you figure out how to water cool your mobo post it. Im sure other people will have questions about it.

Appreciate the shout out

I couldnt relax my body watching this. Heights dont even bother me that much.

I agree, I really dont think it is worth water cooling if you cant see it. A widowed case is a must.

Ya you pretty much need to have a custom loop if you want to do a GPU. They make custom closed water coolers for GPUs but they are really not worth the money.

Well if cost is the most important thing to you, then a custom loop is probably not for you. You can find cheaper custom loops in the Swiftech h220 and XSPC raystorm 750. They run around $140-$160 and should give you much better performance than a closed loop system. Time will tell with the Swiftech H220. If you are looking for just a CPU cooler they are good options. However i believe that they will really lack performance if you try to build to big of a loop using either of these. If you are just looking to just cool a CPU i would stick with air. The initial investment into water cooling is rather high but adding and upgrading it is what makes it worth it. So if you want to some day cool your whole system with water then save up the money and do a loop right. But if you are just looking for a CPU cooler stick with air or a closed loop.