Gershy13

Hi everyone! I've wanted to get a monitor lightbar for a while (like the benq screenbar), but I also kind of wanted to build my own, as i wanted to make it have RGBW and wifi (planning to use sk6812 led strips and WLED on an ESP32). I recently got a 3d printer, so I just need to come up with a design and give it a go. The thing ive been stuck on is how i could make sure that the light from the led strip doesnt spill out onto the monitor, as well as not having it be so wide that its directly in my eyes. I know that the strip has a light angle of 120°, i assume i'd need to get it much lower (probably somewhere like 30 or 45? Maybe even lower?). My question is whats the best way to design something that would help narrow the light (that isnt too complex like attempting to use lenses and stuff). So far the only way i can think of (im probably complicating this too much?) is to get some sort of reflective material on the inside at an angle, and face the leds up towards it. Some sort of reflector i presume? If anyone has any suggestions that would be great! Thanks Gershy13

I probably wont bother upgrading then, itll probably be more hassle to upgrade than the benefits of it.

The main reason I was considering updating is because there was a new update that supposedly helped performance with higher polling rate mice (like my lamzu 4khz). But that alone I'm not sure if it's worth updating for, especially as I'm not a huge fan of the design of windows 11. However if there were other benefits to upgrading then I'd consider it.

Im still running on windows 10 on my main gaming system (5800x, X570, 3070). Is it worth me upgrading to Windows 11? I currently have TPM off, so i would have to switch it on (would this cause any issues? I heard there were ryzen issues with fTPM) Thoughts? Thanks Gershy13

I'm mainly thinking to go with ML as they seem like they perform better + have all the maglev advantages like quieter and more durable

So im going through an RMA process with Corsair, as my cooler leds and commander core stopped working ever since trying to install the LCD upgrade kit. I currently have the h150i elite capellix. However, theyve said that they dont have it currently in stock and are offering me the h150i elite capellix XT. I can either get that or wait a little bit till they get the older one in stock. From what ive seen, the main difference between the two is the change in fans. The XT uses the AF120 fans rather than the special ML120 fans that come with the older one. Im trying to decide if i should wait and get the ones with the ML120s, as they seem like better performing fans ML120 - 75cfm, 4.2mm h2o, 2400rpm, 37dba AF120 - 65cfm, 2.68mm h2o, 2100rpm, 34dba Especially as my case + cpu already get pretty hot (h710 and 5800x, so i need as much cooling as i can get) Currently my fans do hit that max rpm of 2400 when playing a game, as the gpu is heating up the case too. My coolant temperature is around 37-39c in game, and around 33c idle Any suggestions? Thanks Gershy13

Nope, still happens to me occasionally. Although now instead of getting the artifacts I just get a crash.

No idea, they havent replied to the latest email.

Cool thanks.

As in, instead of having to buy a commander pro or commander core xt (to control the new QL fans when i get them), can i save money by using this old commander core alongside the replacement commander core. So the new commander core will control the AIO and its fans. and the old one can control the case fans (4 QL series)

Thanks, just wondering if you know if its possible to use the old commander core as a controller for my case fans? I plan to get 3 QL120s and a QL140 to replace my case fans. Or will I run into issues with it conflicting with the AIO.

Unfortunately I don't... I've seen similar issues online, and apparently a replacement commander core fixed it. Given how quick Corsair was to offer a replacement I assume it's a fairly common issue. No worries mate.

The commander core works, the issue is the AIO part showing up. I tried both the LCD and the old RGB pump head. Ive contacted corsair, and i think theyre gonna send me a replacement commander core.

Yeah everything is up to date before I even started the upgrade (I made sure to upgrade everything even icue). I double checked now, no new upgrades. I also even reinstalled icue after I had the issues. No luck

So i just bought the LCD upgrade kit for my h150 elite, and installed it, then i got the red triangle of death. I thought an icue reinstall would fix it as seen online, (yes i made sure everything is connected properly and tightly). Now for some reason even my old (just rgb) pump head isnt even working, no lights and not detected in icue. Anyone know what could be the issue or have i just somehow broken my commander core? The weird thing is i can see coolant temperature in icue??? So clearly the pump head is working, just not the rgb and i can't control the pump. The LCD also is hit and miss, sometimes i see the red triangle, sometimes i see a screen that says "Liquid Temp: 0" Ive tried all the troubleshooting online (reinstalling, checking cables, power cycling, etc), but nothing works. It looks like the commander core is not talking to the pump head completely. Thanks Gershy13

Thanks, yeah that was the one i was thinking, any recommended videos/guides?

I have a 3070 Ventus 3X, and im trying to squeeze more performance out of it. What method of OCing should i use? Ive only ever used the core and mem offset in afterburner with my 750ti My 3070 seems to be power limited, and i cant change the slider past 100% (I think MSI locked it) What options do i have for OCing? My temps are pretty good (60c at 60% fan speed) Ive heard people use the curve thing for rtx 3000 series, but ive never used it. Any tips? Also what about the core voltage slider? Thanks Gershy13

Anyone out there with a 360mm AIO and a 5800x, what are your temps when doing a Cinebench 23 MC run? I seem to be hitting around 87c. This is with curve optimiser set to -23/24 on all cores. Can't seem to break 4.6ghz all core. Do these seem right? I expected slightly higher clocks at that temp with PBO and CO (especially with curve optimiser being that high (low?) ) My PBO values are set to default (142,95,140), as i couldn't seem to get any performance benefit trying to tune them (assuming temperature is my limiting factor?) Anyone experienced with ryzen 5000 overclocking please help? Am I too ambitious and is this a normal result? Thanks Gershy13

I'll give it a try and report back.

The CPU never came out so I'm not sure how that would make a difference. Only other thing I can think of is gigabyte's RGB fusion software updated itself after the cooler change

Seems to stick with the slot

As I mentioned above, I have reseated them multiple times but still no difference. It looks like one slot is showing SPD data, but the other slot is not showing or only showing a little bit of information about the dimm

So I opened up my pc the other day to clean it and do some general maintenance, and I decided to also change the thermal paste as temps didn't seem great for a 360mm AIO. However now after putting it back together, my ram RGB doesn't work properly. The issue is that the toughram RGB software shows only one stick is in the system, and only gives control of that stick. But attempting to change the colour or effect does nothing to the actual RGB ram. When the system boots up before windows both sticks light up rainbow, but as soon as the software runs both sticks go dark and no light. Another side thing I noticed is that cpu-z only shows one stick under SPD, however aida64 shows two dimms. I tried swapping the dimms order in the slots but same issue. Anyone have any idea what could be going on? The only thing that has changed is the aio cooler has been taken off and put back on. 3800x Aorus pro x570 Toughram RGB 16gb 3600 cl18 (2x8) Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks Gershy13

Its what I'm leaning towards too. £70 instead of £110 as well...

Looking for the lowest latency/best overclocking potential. Is this corsair kit b die? Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB 3600 cl16-18-18-36 (CMW16GX4M2K3600C16) Crucial Ballistix RGB 16 GB 3600 cl16-18-18-38 ( BL2K8G36C16U4BL ) The crucial is significantly cheaper. Or any other recommendations, I am in the UK and currently got an x570 aorus pro and 3800x, although probably going to upgrade to a 5800x soon. Thoughts? Thanks Gershy13