seon123

The Keychron Q6 is relatively easily available, has ISO layout options, and is considered fairly decent. 
https://keychron.de/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-q6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#

The Keychron Q6 is relatively easily available, has ISO layout options, and is considered fairly decent. 
https://keychron.de/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-q6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#

Always go multi rail if possible. "Single rail" is just the marketing way of saying that they cut corners on the protections by omitting multi rail OCP on the 12V rail. Gullible people unfortunately fall for it, and some of those even think it's better. 
Does it matter? If you're curious about a specific PSU, just read a review on it. 
https://hwbusters.com/psus/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-850w-psu-review/
 
If you want to compare a handful of PSUs, you can also just ask about those specifically. 

Could you be any more patronizing ?
 
I get it, I'm a stupid idiot for preferring a clean case. Thanks so much for your helpful and positive responses. How DARE I have an opinion and preference for my own computer.
 
But, don't feel the need to bother responding again, my bandwidth is overloaded with your wisdom and authority right now.

The difference between a 6 pin and an 8 pin is two ground pins. They are just there to indicate that the connector is capable of supplying 150W rather than 75W. It would do nothing.

The difference between a 6 pin and an 8 pin is two ground pins. They are just there to indicate that the connector is capable of supplying 150W rather than 75W. It would do nothing.

The difference between a 6 pin and an 8 pin is two ground pins. They are just there to indicate that the connector is capable of supplying 150W rather than 75W. It would do nothing.

Here is my current desk setup GMK67 (Outemu Silent Lemon V2 / Womier WOB pbt keycaps) total costs about $60~    .. This keyboard is very quiet, one could easily take a keyboard like this to your work and not have your coworkers get super irate because of noise.

@Levent Being nice and kind is easy mate.Just so you know

The basics of a custom controller are really not that difficult, it's just a couple buttons (and perhaps analog sticks) that a microcontroller reads out, transforms into dinput/xinput and plugs into a PC/console/device to play a game. It's just about how complicated you want to make it.
Adafruit has some videos on controller making, which should cover some of the very high level theory and practice of making a controller. Once you understand the different components that go within a controller, you can make it more complicated.
 
What I've learned over the time of making some projects, is that it's important to write down a list of "must, should, could", where you outline what you project must have to be at least a minimum viable project, what it should have to be really cool and what it could have, if you seek a bigger challenge after accomplishing the first two lists of goals.
If you set out your project without a proper vision, it will often be dragged down by feature creep, where you endlessly tack on features until your project has become unrecognizable from your initial goals.
 
So don't set out to work for months or especially not years on a perfect project, make mistakes; and make them quickly. It's very cliche, but you learn a lot from mistakes, as they prepare you for what can go wrong. Don't set out to build a perfect controller, you will make many prototypes along the way.
Especially with controller shells, that is something large companies have been trying to refine for years. It's no coincidence that some controller projects are designed around existing shells. Such as being designed around the legendary GameCube controller, with project such as the Goomwave and PhobGCC (the latter of which is open-source, so be sure to take a look at its design and documentation).
 
While I don't have experience designing controllers, I do have quite bit of knowledge on them and have experience with designing PCB's for keyboards as well as 3D modeling some simple projects, so if you have any questions I might be able to help!

That depends on the PSU. Some are different on the PSU side, some are the same, and Superflower has a funky universal 9 pin connector on the PSU side for all of their cables (except motherboard 24 pin).
The CPU 8 pin will often split into 4+4, while the PCIe 8 pin will often split into 6+2.
PCIe power connectors only have 3 12V pins. The PCIe 8 pin is essentially the same as the PCIe 6 pin connector, but with two extra pins that are there to indicate to the graphics card that the connector can supply 150W instead of 75W. Just the same as how the 4 small pins on the new 12VHPWR connector are there to indicate how much power it can deliver.
PCIe devices. E.g. a Wi-Fi card

The Raijintek Morpheus 8069 is compatible with 6900 XT models, although I can't tell if it would be compatible with that specific one

Any PSU wattage calculators are just garbage, ignore them. The 3070 has a 220W TDP, expect the system to draw less than 350W under a gaming load. The EVGA P5 is a low end PSU, but the wattage is not an issue

That's just the stabiliser. That's how it's supposed to act. What made you think it's a spring system? If there's something wrong with just one switch, just replace it. If there's actually something wrong with the stabiliser, that looks like it's plate mount, so there's a decent chance you could remove and replace it by simply desoldering that one switch.

The PSU side of the cable likely has a 3.3V pin, which is not used on Molex connectors. 
PCIe connectors have 3 12V pins, the PSU side has 4 12V pins. 
The -5V pin has not been used on PSUs for about 20 years. 

Your PSU isn't using pigtail cables for PCIe. Pigtail cables generally refers to where it's one cable that has a second connector that splits off after the first connector.
The connector on your PSU for the PCIe cable has 12 terminals, the cable is essentially just two separate cables that are glued together at the PSU side.
 

Image source: Tom's Hardware - be quiet! Straight Power 11 650W Platinum Power Supply Review https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/be-quiet-straight-power-11-650w-platinum-power-supply-review

The 24 pin connector often splits into 20+4 pins, meaning you could likely plug in a lot of modern PSUs. You might have an issue if some parts require -5V power, as PSUs haven't had that for the last ~20 years

The 24 pin connector often splits into 20+4 pins, meaning you could likely plug in a lot of modern PSUs. You might have an issue if some parts require -5V power, as PSUs haven't had that for the last ~20 years

LWM and a host of other WG Forum regulars are now using devstrike.net which is player run. After just over a week the membership is over 500 I believe.

There is no way for the motherboard to get any info from the PSU, other than the PWR_OK signal, which just lets the motherboard know that the PSU is supplying power safely. It's just a motherboard VRM temperature sensor, and all of them are just sending bad data. No part of your PC is going to be at below ambient temperature.
 
 
 
It's not a PSU temperature sensor. The only info the PSU sends to the motherboard is the Power Good signal, which just lets the motherboard know that the PSU is supplying voltages within spec.
How about you just click the link and read context instead of doing Buzzfeed levels of research...?
 
https://www.linux.com/topic/desktop/advanced-lm-sensors-tips-and-tricks-linux-0/
 
From the context, it's obvious that the writer chose to use "power supply" to refer to the motherboard VRM, you know, the part of the motherboard that supplies power to the CPU and other components. It's not the wording people usually use in a PC context, but it's still clear and it's obvious what they're referring to when you read the context surrounding the sentence.
See above for the Linux article. Random forum posts are obviously not useful places to try and dig up information. They could be just as clueless as you, and also spread misinformation that they got by not reading the context around a sentence they got from Google.
I can do just the same thing as you, just look. A screenshot of a Google result, completely out of context that proves that the earth is about 6000 years old. 😱
 

https://realfaith.com/what-christians-believe/old-earth/
 
Now, if you actually click the link, you'll see that that quote is horribly out of context, and the website does not argue that the earth is about 6000 years old.
Yes, still wrong. The THW forums are not THW, and is just as useless for information as yourself. It's not about the number of sources, especially when you're trying to take them out of context to say something that they don't.
Here is Intel's power supply design guide.
https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/design-guides/resellers-power-supply-design-guide-changes.pdf
 
You can check for yourself that AUXTIN is not a thing related to the PSU, and tables 4-1 to 4-8 give the pinouts for each connector.
In your mind, does each wire in each cable not connect to a specific pin...? 
 
 
 
Technically, the PSU receives data input through the PS_ON pin to indicate that it should be on, and the PSU sends the PWR_OK signal to the motherboard to indicate that it's supplying power. But no temperature data for sure.
 
 
 
That's technically data, but all the pins do is connect to ground or not. Depending on which pins connect to ground, the graphics card knows how much power the PSU is able to supply. It's just the same as the 8 pin PCIe connector adding two ground pins (compared to the 6 pin PCIe connector) to indicate that the PSU is able to supply 150W instead of 75W.

There won't be a big WAN Show segment about this or anything. Most of what I have to say, I've already said, and I've done so privately.

To Steve, I expressed my disappointment that he didn't go through proper journalistic practices in creating this piece. He has my email and number (along with numerous other members of our team) and could have asked me for context that may have proven to be valuable (like the fact that we didn't 'sell' the monoblock, but rather auctioned it for charity due to a miscommunication... AND the fact that while we haven't sent payment yet, we have already agreed to compensate Billet Labs for the cost of their prototype). There are other issues, but I've told him that I won't be drawn into a public sniping match over this and that I'll be continuing to move forward in good faith as part of 'Team Media'. When/if he's ready to do so again I'll be ready.

To my team (and my CEO's team, but realistically I was at the helm for all of these errors, so I need to own it), I stressed the importance of diligence in our work because there are so many eyes on us. We are going through some growing pains - we've been very public about them in the interest of transparency - and it's clear we have some work to do on internal processes and communication. We have already been doing a lot of work internally to clean up our processes, but these things take time. Rome wasn't built in a day, but that's no excuse for sloppiness.

Now, for my community, all I can say is the same things I always say. We know that we're not perfect. We wear our imperfection on our sleeves in the interest of ensuring that we stay accountable to you. But it's sad and unfortunate when this transparency gets warped into a bad thing. The Labs team is hard at work hard creating processes and tools to generate data that will benefit all consumers - a work in progress that is very much not done and that we've communicated needs to be treated as such. Do we have notes under some videos? Yes. Is it because we are striving for transparency/improvement? Yeah... What we're doing hasn't been in many years, if ever.. and we would make a much larger correction if the circumstances merited it. Listing the wrong amount of cache on a table for a CPU review is sloppy, but given that our conclusions are drawn based on our testing, not the spec sheet, it doesn't materially change the recommendation. That doesn't mean these things don't matter. We've set KPIs for our writing/labs team around accuracy, and we are continually installing new checks and balances to ensure that things continue to get better. If you haven't seen the improvement, frankly I wonder if you're really looking for it... The thoroughness that we managed on our last handful of GPU videos is getting really incredible given the limited time we have for these embargoes. I'm REALLY excited about what the future will hold.
 
With all of that said, I still disagree that the Billet Labs video (not the situation with the return, which I've already addressed above) is an 'accuracy' issue. It's more like I just read the room wrong. We COULD have re-tested it with perfect accuracy, but to do so PROPERLY - accounting for which cases it could be installed in (none) and which radiators it would be plumbed with (again... mystery) would have been impossible... and also didn't affect the conclusion of the video... OR SO I THOUGHT...
 
I wanted to evaluate it as a product, and as a product, IF it could manage to compete with the temperatures of the highest end blocks on the planet, it still wouldn't make sense to buy... so from my point of view, re-testing it and finding out that yes, it did in fact run cooler made no difference to the conclusion, so it didn't really make a difference.
 
Adam and I were talking about this today. He advocated for re-testing it regardless of how non-viable it was as a product at the time and I think he expressed really well today why it mattered. It was like making a video about a supercar. It doesn't mater if no one watching will buy it. They just wanna see it rip.  I missed that, but it wasn't because I didn't care about the consumer.. it was because I was so focused on how this product impacted a potential buyer. Either way, clearly my bad, but my intention was never to harm Billet Labs. I specifically called out their incredible machining skills because I wanted to see them create something with a viable market for it and was hoping others would appreciate the fineness of the craftsmanship even if the product was impractical. I still hope they move forward building something else because they obviously have talent and I've watched countless niche water cooling vendors come and go. It's an astonishingly unforgiving market.
 
Either way, I'm sorry I got the community's priorities mixed-up on this one, and that we didn't show the Billet in the best light. Our intention wasn't to hurt anyone. We wanted no one to buy it (because it's an egregious waste of money no matter what temps it runs at) and we wanted Billet to make something marketable (so they can, y'know, eat).
 
With all of this in mind, it saddens me how quickly the pitchforks were raised over this. It also comes across a touch hypocritical when some basic due diligence could have helped clarify much of it. I have a LONG history of meeting issues head on and I've never been afraid to answer questions, which lands me in hot water regularly, but helps keep me in tune with my peers and with the community. The only reason I can think of not to ask me is because my honest response might be inconvenient. 
 
We can test that... with this post. Will the "It was a mistake (a bad one, but a mistake) and they're taking care of it" reality manage to have the same reach? Let's see if anyone actually wants to know what happened. I hope so, but it's been disheartening seeing how many people were willing to jump on us here. Believe it or not, I'm a real person and so is the rest of my team. We are trying our best, and if what we were doing was easy, everyone would do it. Today sucks.
 
Thanks for reading this.

If it's possible to mount it with the fan side up, try that. With semi passive PSUs, the heat should rise up, and away from the thermistor, allowing it to stay passive for longer. It could also help by providing some airflow from the rest of the PC through the PSU. If it's already mounted fan side up, or if it's not possible, you could try to undervolt or otherwise reduce the PC's power consumption so it's able to always stay passive. If you prefer for the fan to just always be on, you could increase it enough for it to always force the PSU to run with its fan on.
The issue isn't that it's a "smart" or semi passive fan curve, it's that it's too dumb. Some PSUs have hysteresis for the fan speed, exactly to prevent the issue you're having. If budget is no concern, something like the Corsair AX1600i or HX1500i would be decent options. The HX850 for $135 is a good option, imo, and should be enough for your specs. The reason I recommend those is that I know they have a MCU as the fan controller, and have hysteresis, and they are also fairly quiet. If you need a 12VHRPWR connector, Corsair has a $20 cable for that. The Thermaltake GF3 850W for $110 after rebate is also good. It has an MCU for fan control, but it also has a switch that allows you to disable the semi passive mode entirely. It's not as quiet as the HX, but will most likely be fine. You can check if they are quiet enough by comparing their noise graphs on Cybenetics.

1981 IBM 5281/5282/5285/5286 Data Station Typewriter Keyboard!
 
* 528X-83 type IBM Model B keyboard
* 83-key Italian layout
* IBM beam spring clicky capacitive key-switches
* SAN double-shot keycaps
* Made by IBM Italy
* Shipped with data station terminals of the IBM 5280 Distributed Data System from 1980
* Some people in the vintage keyboard community call this the "Beamfoot" as it resembles the later and more common IBM 5291/5292 "Bigfoot" Model F buckling spring keyboard but in Model B form
 

Nope. A power supply will not cause stutters in games. The issues you are experiencing with stutters will lie elsewhere, such as background tasks, bugs in the game, etc.
 
Under heavy load the 7600X will draw around 100W and the 6950XT will draw around 350-400W depending on the model. The rest of the system is rather negligible, probably under 50W. Under heavy load you're probably looking around 500-550W power consumption in total for the system. The Cooler Master MWE Gold 750W is a decent power supply and should be suitable for the system.
Power supply calculator websites make money through advertising power supplies and affiliate links, it's their business to recommend people replace their power supply and they often inflate the power consumption of systems.

Same cables, you're good. The only meaningful difference between the 2018 and 2021 model is that the 2021 model is louder, due to a worse, more gimmicky mAgNeTiC lEvItAtIoN fan. So enjoy the upgrade to the 2018 model.