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seon123

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  1. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from jaslion in Which sleeved extension cables should I use?   
    You shouldn't use sleeved extensions, but buy replacement cables. The Core Reactor uses Corsair Type 4 pinout, so look for Corsair Type 4 compatible cables. Quick search on Amazon US is about $60 for a basic set.
     
    https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Premium-Individually-Sleeved-Starter/dp/B07L5YG1GN/
    http://jongerow.com/Corsair_pinouts/Corsair_pinout_Type_4.htm
  2. Like
    seon123 reacted to SIA Tech Mods in Minecraft Creeper Build   
    Just showing off a build I put together with help of the PC/Modding community, this was for a little boy who's spent month's in hospital due to a brain tumour known as craniopharyngioma, he's had 3 operations and likely will be more in the future. I wanted to do something for him, to help give him a boost, to give him something to look forward to, I originally planned to mod their case and upgrade their family rig which consisted of a Intel 12100 and a GTX 1650 but once the community caught wind, we have managed to put together a whole new system based on the boys favourite game! 

    The new rig consists of:
    AMD 7700X (community supplied)
    MSI B650 Tomahawk Wifi (community supplied)
    MSI RX 6750XT Mech 2 (Local cafe fundraiser)
    Thermaltake ToughPower PF3 850w (Thermaltake sponsored) Was a GF 1 750w community sought but we had issues
    Thermaltake Divider 300 TG AIR (community supplied)
    Thermaltake TH360 V2 Ultra (Thermaltake sponsored)
    Thermaltake CT120 ARGB Sync PC Cooling Fan (2-Fan Pack) x2 (Thermaltake Sponsored)
    Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR5 6000MHz (Community supplied)
    CableMod ModMesh Pro Custom set (Cablemod sponsor)
    CableMod RGB/UV 30cm light strip (Cablemod sponsor)
    Samsung 980 Pro 1Tb (Community supplied)
    Made to order Green and purple pearl paint job although the pictures fail to show this, the light needs to hit it just right and it shows so much more in natural sunlight! (video of front panel in the sun to give the full effect of the purple pearl)
    Creeper Vinyl made to order
    3D Printed blocks and Ender dragon printed and supplied by AML Customs
    To finish it off I made sure he had something decent to view it on - (trialled him with a 27" I had spare but it wasn't quite right for him so Samsung Odyssey g5 LC32G55TQBUXXU (32" 1440p)

    I honestly did not expect the amount of love and thought from the community that this build has had, without them this build certainly wouldn't be what it is without them! So much appreciation from me for making this next level


  3. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from jaslion in Cpu Power to Pcie Power adapter   
    In what scenario would you have a spare CPU power connector, but not a spare GPU connector? If you're thinking of using a separate PSU for just the GPU, that's also a bad idea, as the garbage PSUs most often used for that task are group regulated, meaning a crossload like that would make the voltage on the 12V rail drop a bunch. 
  4. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from GOTSpectrum in Cpu Power to Pcie Power adapter   
    In what scenario would you have a spare CPU power connector, but not a spare GPU connector? If you're thinking of using a separate PSU for just the GPU, that's also a bad idea, as the garbage PSUs most often used for that task are group regulated, meaning a crossload like that would make the voltage on the 12V rail drop a bunch. 
  5. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from Fasauceome in Cpu Power to Pcie Power adapter   
    In what scenario would you have a spare CPU power connector, but not a spare GPU connector? If you're thinking of using a separate PSU for just the GPU, that's also a bad idea, as the garbage PSUs most often used for that task are group regulated, meaning a crossload like that would make the voltage on the 12V rail drop a bunch. 
  6. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from silencer12 in Calculate Power   
    If you want help choosing a PSU, it's best to just ask for help with that, instead of asking questions around the topic. 
  7. Funny
    seon123 reacted to Beerzerker in Why do CPUs need to be so cold when overclocking?   
    When a chip gets cold that makes it become a "Super Conductor" so it can do more with the same voltage, BUT to reach the speeds the chip is capable of along with the voltages needed to get there, that where the cold really helps.

    It's not a matter of thermal rating such as 90C being the limit - It's all about removing every last bit of heat from the chip so it can tolerate the voltages used and not burn up on the spot.
    Freeagent put it simply enough here:
    Heat is the enemy of all electronics anyway and in this case it's like a Super Villain when it comes down to it vs obtaining the clockspeeds the chip can do, so you need a hero and Ln2 is the hero that saves the day.

    I've done enough benching on Ln2 to have ran into things like, for example the paste cracking and hindering what I could get and I've also had some really nice runs too when the TIM and all else just worked.
    Correct - The cold causes the condensation to form and you have to insulate the board for avoiding problems with water causing issues or even killing the system.
    I know many say to use vaso but vaso itself can cause problems because of the mess it makes. It does work but a grease made for such situations is better to use and that would be dielectric grease for moisure proofing/sealing and coating components in general.

    I could go way into things about insulating vs the cold and can do that if I must but that's the basics of it, keep the water away from the components and bench on.
    And this is my 1st gen T-Rex pot I've modded along the way for getting the results I do.

  8. Funny
    seon123 reacted to freeagent in Which would be the best psu?   
    I would do the Asus 850, just because it is a Seasonic.
     
    I tend to avoid Corsair.
     
    I would consider the Fractal too..
  9. Like
    seon123 reacted to inane.ink in Why don't UPS's have a DC output, and PSU's a correspondng DC input? (or why aren't there any combined UPS/PSUs?)   
    There is a solution / way of achieving this, but for an average user it's a bit expensive.
     
    I just finished a SFX build using the Fractal Terra Jade, with the key factor being: DC input.
     
    Power Supply: instead of a traditional ATX or SFX power supply, you can also opt for a DC-ATX power supply:
    https://hdplex.com/hdplex-800w-dc-atx-with-12v-63vdc-input.html
    They have cheaper / weaker models too, but I want to be able to run a i7 + 4060ti easily and be on the safe side regarding future upgrades.
     
    You'll notice that >300$ for a 800W PSU is a bit higher than some standard PSU 🙂
    However, it will take any input voltage from 12V to 63V, which is amazing for industrial settings or running off a car/truck battery.
     
    And regarding efficiency: that thing is crazy, at >90% efficiency under full load it can be run without a fan, continuously!
     
    Next, you'll need to modify your case to support DC input rather than AC input. This meant that I had to make a custom DC input panel for my PC case, and solder appropriate connectors to the wire. As my target was 20V, and the GPU+CPU can easily draw 300W combined, the wire and connectors have to be rated to at least 15A. If you want to max out the 800W, at 20V that would equate to 40A... which is not insignificant. Higher voltages would reduce the current requirements, which is why the electrical grid uses 110V in the US or 230V here in Switzerland.
     
    At this point, you've invested approx. 300$ and a few hours of work, but still can't run the PC, because now it does not accept a standard AC cord.
     
    My goal was to make my build battery-powered, and as I have a few Bosch Professional (blue) ProCore batteries lying around I will be using those.
    One 12Ah 18V battery has a voltage range of roughly 17V...21V, and can easily output 2kW of peak power. At 200Wh capacity the run-time highly depends on the load though.
    To keep the battery topped-up when a power source is available, I'm using a 230W GAN laptop PSU coupled with a DC/DC battery charger. The charger can deliver 200W, any higher power draw is supplied by the battery. If my total average power is below 200W, this solution works great. Running Cyberpunk will exceed 200W though, so I also need to hot-swap between batteries occasionally.
     
    In summary:
    Running your build off of DC is not that hard anymore, but it does require investments into hardware, compromises, and creative problem solving - plus it's not without it's risks. 🙂
     
    If you already have the batteries and charger for the batteries, you'd only need the DC-ATX PSU. Oh, and you need to make sure that the PSU does not drain your batteries below what they're rated for. In my case I do not have any undervoltage protection, so I need to be quite careful : D
     
    ---
    You may be asking yourself.. why?
    - As I wanted a very quiet SFF build that does not compromise on CPU and GPU power, I had to maximise the space available for water cooling. The DC-ATX PSU is slimmer than a normal SFX PSU, and fit into my case better.
    - My use case is a "mobile" gaming rig, as I stay at a different location 3d/week. There is power, the main reason for using the battery is to compensate power draw peaks and to act as a UPS.
    - Instead of paying 2000$ for a workstation laptop for use in a CAD/Engineering BsC, I wanted to be able to upgrade components down the line. My build is quite heavy compared to a beefy laptop, but it's a lot quieter and has even more power. With two 12Ah battery packs and some power efficient settings the runtime is quite a bit better than my dying Lenovo P1 Gen 3...
    - I like bodging stuff together and take pride in unconventional solutions hehe
     
    I've attached some photos for the curious, it's still a work-in-progress though 🙂
     
  10. Funny
    seon123 reacted to AI_Must_Di3 in Does this sound like a power supply problem? (sudden restarts)   
    We went thru the multi rail psu crap there for 4 or 5 years when they first started that, but all it did was starve components for power and kick the ocp and other protections off. They finally relented and stopped making them and went back to full single rails cause of the complaining and nobody was buying them. I will tip my hat to Be Quiet though, at least they learned something from that fiasco, even if they didnt make psu's back then, and they made the individual rails cap at 25 and 30 amps instead of 18 like makers used to do. 18 amps is way tooo low and you can see why they would trip all the time, especially back then with bclk overclocking and quad sli rigs.
    Anyway, id say your problem may be bios settings issue since the rig does a auto restart. That seems like its searching for workable bios settings cause the old ones arent good enough anymore. Once a rig gets a few years on it, people who just use auto everything in the bios will usually run into this cause of component wear. the cpu and ram usually need to be setup manually for timings and voltage. Using XMP? Turn it off and input the settings manually and it may stop crashing right there even. Make sure when you get down to the command rate setting you put it on 2, if the rig seems stable with the manual setup you can change it to 1 but it may crash. Some sticks just dont like 1, its just too quick. Fastboot on? Disable it.
    That should be enough for now to fix some issues. Lets hope thats all it is, just a config issue, and that your psu isnt screwed up. 😉
  11. Funny
    seon123 got a reaction from Beerzerker in Which would be the best psu?   
    If you care about noise, the RMx Shift is a good option. Unlike the regular RMx, it has a decent fan, so its able to run a fair bit quieter. The cables attach to the side of the PSU, but it's usually not an issue. There's a list of cases that have been tested below. 
    http://www.jongerow.com/RMxShift_Compatible_Cases(02-2023).pdf
     
    The cables use Corsair Type 5, meaning it won't be quite as easy to get custom cables for, compared to some other options, if you ever decide to get some. There are a few first party options by Corsair, if you're fine with those, though. 
     
    It's not on PCPP, but the prices I found were about £125 for the 750W and £135 for the 850W. 
     
     
    Out of the PSUs you found, I'd choose the V750 V2. It remains passive until ~375W load, the fan starts at ~800 RPM, and goes up to 1150 RPM at 750W load. It also performs well. It might be a bit more difficult and expensive to get custom cables for, compared to some other options. If you just need a 12VHPWR cable, Cooler Master does have a first party one. You want the Type 1 version. 
    https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/power-supplies/cable/12vhpwr-adapter-cable/
     
  12. Funny
    seon123 reacted to Beerzerker in PSU wattage numbers are nonsense   
    Could be overdrawing the PSU on the rail the GPU uses, making it trip even though the unit's wattage is supposted to be enough for the entire system.
    That could mean what's being used to power the GPU is a weak rail so it's just not holding up, causing the trip.
    That's one reason why I've always preferred a single rail PSU, or at least one with a few rails as possible.
  13. Funny
    seon123 reacted to Beerzerker in PSU wattage numbers are nonsense   
    There is alot of variance in accuracy of wattage capacity between PSU makes and models so that's one factor you have to include.
    That's one reason why a PSU made by "Whizz-BANG!" (No-name brand) for example is just that and will eventually, if not immediately live up to it's name but a good, quality unit will be more accurate per stated wattage rating and do what it's supposed to.
    Never skimp - Always get a good quality unit.
     
    I've always spec'ed mine with extra wattage capacity for that reason and a couple of other reasons too.
     
    It's NOT good to have a unit running at 100% capacity all the time because that has the PSU unit working hard all the time, which will lead to increased internal thermals because heat is the enemy of anything electronic and will shorten it's lifespan.
    Another reason why is if you starve the system for power if it's calling for it, that in turn makes everything in the system start running hotter too.

    Try placing a teeny-tiny battery into a vehicle that needs a larger battery or try starting one with a really weak battery - It's fry and die time when that happens as evidenced by the vehicle's starter getting really hot, really fast.

    Once power is introduced into any power circuit, it has to go somewhere and if it's not dissapated as work done by the device, it dissapates as heat and that's why.

    The power circuitry itself will not store this energy if it's not designed to and if not, that's what happens.

    It's also due to wattage overhead you'll need at times to handle spikes in load/demand for power too, if the unit is already running "At Capacity" and THEN a spike occurs that's not a good thing, even though they are engineered to absorb spikes.
    The total wattage of what the system will (What you'd expect) have to run should be added up and then you'd want to figure in about a 20% increase above that total value for the entire system to detemine the actual PSU wattage you'd need in a unit.
    When you talk about "Safe" I'm assuming you're thinking the PSU per wattage rating will cram excess power into the system - PSU's DO NOT work like that.

    It only supplies the power the system needs at the time you'd measure power draw, based on load demand at that time.
    That's why for example, I'm running a 1600W unit (Rosewill Hercules) right now in a system I use daily that could easily be handled by a 800W unit....
    I'm typing this on that system so that means the system is working and not affected by the excess wattage capacity, in fact I've been running this one for several years this way and 0 issues to even mention about it.

    PSU's don't just cram their rated wattage into the system, it simply provides what power the system is wanting at any given moment, which can vary wildly sometimes (Power spikes) if you were to be measuring power draw all the time - You'd see it to know it.

    Wattage ratings only means the unit is (Supposedly) capable of that wattage output if it's needed and if it's not, it won't supply that amount of wattage, only what the system wants to run.
    You can go too small and cause what I've described above AND make components in the system itself get hotter too but you really can't go "Too large" and have it to blow the guts out of the system when you press the power button - If that ever happens you already have a bigger problem than the wattage rating of your PSU to start with.

    Again, PSU do not cram power into the system, it's simply supplies what the system needs up to it's rated capacity.

    So - Add up the entire expected wattage draw from the system and be aware everything in it will draw power such as the board/chipsets, RAM and all else, not just the CPU and GPU alone.
    Figure all that up, then spec it for about 20% over that value (Or more if you want) and go with it.
    Even just 10% over is better than having right at the limit all the time.
    I hope this clear up some things for you.

    EDIT:
    To the one that thinks this is funny.....
    I've worked with electrical systems, power panels, electric drive motors in an industrial setting and so on for over 30 years...
    And I did this too.....
    https://hwbot.org/submission/4740676_bones_superpi___1m_fx_8320_9sec_141ms
    Way to show your own ignorance, which is laughable in itself.
    Have fun with that.
  14. Agree
    seon123 reacted to Levent in Do I need a 850W PSU for a Ryzen 5800x3d and RTX 3080Ti?   
    Try it out as is first. I don’t think it will be necessary.
  15. Like
    seon123 got a reaction from MrBaker89 in Mechanical Keyboard Club!   
    The Keychron Q6 is relatively easily available, has ISO layout options, and is considered fairly decent. 
    https://keychron.de/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-q6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#
  16. Like
    seon123 got a reaction from jdh009 in Mechanical Keyboard Club!   
    The Keychron Q6 is relatively easily available, has ISO layout options, and is considered fairly decent. 
    https://keychron.de/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-q6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#
  17. Informative
    seon123 got a reaction from silencer12 in PSU-Tier list with ATX 3.0?   
    Always go multi rail if possible. "Single rail" is just the marketing way of saying that they cut corners on the protections by omitting multi rail OCP on the 12V rail. Gullible people unfortunately fall for it, and some of those even think it's better. 
    Does it matter? If you're curious about a specific PSU, just read a review on it. 
    https://hwbusters.com/psus/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-850w-psu-review/
     
    If you want to compare a handful of PSUs, you can also just ask about those specifically. 
  18. Funny
    seon123 reacted to Outta_Hwrw in PSU Cable Confusion - Cooler Master   
    Could you be any more patronizing ?
     
    I get it, I'm a stupid idiot for preferring a clean case. Thanks so much for your helpful and positive responses. How DARE I have an opinion and preference for my own computer.
     
    But, don't feel the need to bother responding again, my bandwidth is overloaded with your wisdom and authority right now.
  19. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from Lurick in Is it safe to change the 6-pin on my gpu into a 8-pin?   
    The difference between a 6 pin and an 8 pin is two ground pins. They are just there to indicate that the connector is capable of supplying 150W rather than 75W. It would do nothing.
  20. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from Eigenvektor in Is it safe to change the 6-pin on my gpu into a 8-pin?   
    The difference between a 6 pin and an 8 pin is two ground pins. They are just there to indicate that the connector is capable of supplying 150W rather than 75W. It would do nothing.
  21. Agree
    seon123 got a reaction from Ottoman420 in Is it safe to change the 6-pin on my gpu into a 8-pin?   
    The difference between a 6 pin and an 8 pin is two ground pins. They are just there to indicate that the connector is capable of supplying 150W rather than 75W. It would do nothing.
  22. Like
    seon123 reacted to atarione in Mechanical Keyboard Club!   
    Here is my current desk setup GMK67 (Outemu Silent Lemon V2 / Womier WOB pbt keycaps) total costs about $60~    .. This keyboard is very quiet, one could easily take a keyboard like this to your work and not have your coworkers get super irate because of noise.

  23. Funny
    seon123 reacted to CheersDude31 in Is the top side of my psu safe to touch while its connected to socket but not running?   
    @Levent Being nice and kind is easy mate.Just so you know
  24. Like
    seon123 reacted to minibois in Build my own controller?   
    The basics of a custom controller are really not that difficult, it's just a couple buttons (and perhaps analog sticks) that a microcontroller reads out, transforms into dinput/xinput and plugs into a PC/console/device to play a game. It's just about how complicated you want to make it.
    Adafruit has some videos on controller making, which should cover some of the very high level theory and practice of making a controller. Once you understand the different components that go within a controller, you can make it more complicated.
     
    What I've learned over the time of making some projects, is that it's important to write down a list of "must, should, could", where you outline what you project must have to be at least a minimum viable project, what it should have to be really cool and what it could have, if you seek a bigger challenge after accomplishing the first two lists of goals.
    If you set out your project without a proper vision, it will often be dragged down by feature creep, where you endlessly tack on features until your project has become unrecognizable from your initial goals.
     
    So don't set out to work for months or especially not years on a perfect project, make mistakes; and make them quickly. It's very cliche, but you learn a lot from mistakes, as they prepare you for what can go wrong. Don't set out to build a perfect controller, you will make many prototypes along the way.
    Especially with controller shells, that is something large companies have been trying to refine for years. It's no coincidence that some controller projects are designed around existing shells. Such as being designed around the legendary GameCube controller, with project such as the Goomwave and PhobGCC (the latter of which is open-source, so be sure to take a look at its design and documentation).
     
    While I don't have experience designing controllers, I do have quite bit of knowledge on them and have experience with designing PCB's for keyboards as well as 3D modeling some simple projects, so if you have any questions I might be able to help!
  25. Informative
    seon123 got a reaction from RevGAM in Demystifying the Modular PSU (help !)   
    That depends on the PSU. Some are different on the PSU side, some are the same, and Superflower has a funky universal 9 pin connector on the PSU side for all of their cables (except motherboard 24 pin).
    The CPU 8 pin will often split into 4+4, while the PCIe 8 pin will often split into 6+2.
    PCIe power connectors only have 3 12V pins. The PCIe 8 pin is essentially the same as the PCIe 6 pin connector, but with two extra pins that are there to indicate to the graphics card that the connector can supply 150W instead of 75W. Just the same as how the 4 small pins on the new 12VHPWR connector are there to indicate how much power it can deliver.
    PCIe devices. E.g. a Wi-Fi card
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