seon123

Rolled back 10 minutes ago:
https://safety.twitch.tv/s/article/Sexual-Content-Policy-Update?language=en_US

Twitch still prohibits nudity...
 
What changed is that now fictionalised art (drawn, animated, sculpture) of nudity is allowed... You can draw nude people but you cannot be naked yourself.
You can also have a focus on breasts, buttocks, and pelvic regions and streamers are allowed to perform strip teases, pole dance, and twerk... When clothed. Twitch's Attire policy and policy on nudity (above) still applies.
 
 
This whole thing is honestly overblown. Now people drawing art can draw boobs, people who already bent over doing yoga poses in front of the camera every time 5 gifted came in can twerk or pole dance for those gifted, and people who had their webcam be 2/3rds of the screen zoomed in on their tits in a low cut top can continue doing that without pretending like they don't know what they're doing. The only twitch streamers that look at these rule changes and come up with ways to sexualise their content are the sort who were already pointing the camera at their ass while doing yoga poses or putting inflatable kids pools in their living room to stream in a bikini. Nothing is really going to change.

Don't buy based on brand, every brand has put out a PSU that's a fire hazard, and at least most brands have put out at least one very solid unit. Saying something like "buy an EVGA PSU" could mean you end up with a 650W N1 (a PSU I wouldn't want to be in the same room as) or a 650W P6 (a great PSU), or "buy a Seasonic PSU" could mean you end up with a 650W S12III (pretty bad unit) or a Focus 650 Plus Platinum (really good unit). 
 
What budget do you have and what system are you trying to use it in?
 
It has the new 12VHPWR connector found on the 4070 (Ti)/4080/4090. If you're getting one of those, you should be aiming for a PSU with that connector natively.

Go ahead and finish the build. The 12V2x6 cable is backwards compatible with 12VHPWR. An RTX 4070Ti doesn't draw that much power anyway so there's a very low risk for melting connectors even with the older 12VHPWR cables. Just make sure the cable is properly inserted.
 
Out of curiosity, how do you know the graphics card is using the 12VHPWR connector and not 12V2x6?

At most, you'll just have to very carefully remove the mouse feet with a hair dryer, or just replace them for a few dollars. That's the case for most mice I've come across. 

Coil whine is pretty much expected when pairing a modern high end GPU with such a low end PSU. The 1070 Ti is pretty low power, so it wouldn't cause the PSU to have coil whine the same way a 7900 XT would. If the PSU is not shutting down under load, you can just keep using it. If the PSU shuts down or if the coil whine bothers you too much, you can replace it. 

What gave you the impression that a USB cable is just a bunch of wires? On higher end charging cables you'll always find an e-marker chip, as high wattage USB PD requires an electronically marked EPR cable. 
 
E.g. this one has a 48 MHz Cortex-M0 CPU, 32 KB flash memory and 4 KB SRAM. 
 

You can literally go to their website and find their models.
 
http://www.cwt.com.tw/Product/enus/Product_SecondShow.aspx?Series=2E73C062DE0A456394BF65AD2847EDE3&Category=9C67C135A7F53B6E

Not that interested, but thanks. 

i recommended seasonic and platinum efficiency. i think it's more than reasonable to let the purchaser decide the what form factor/ feature set they would prefer in those parameters, since you can't really go wrong with any choice. I've never heard anything bad about any seasonic psu, they also manufacture them so if there were issues i'd trust a actual manufacturer over a rebranded psu. But hey that's just my opinion, maybe your next comment will have an actual recommendation to add to the list of possible choices the op can buy.

Here's more advice :
1. Ask the repair shop first, so at the very least in the event they refuse to do it and you don't have anyone else to do it for you, you don't end up with switches already bought etc
 
2. When buying the spare parts, I suggest ordering more than just two switches, so you have spare for the future and save up on shipping fee.

Thanks a lot to both of you!
 
I picked the Kailh GM 8 because it seems pretty average in terms of actuation force, and its quoted durability is higher. As for doing it myself... I watched the tutorial that @seon123 so helpfully provided and... Yeah, I can see about a dozen ways I would break something or injure myself doing that. There IS an electronics repair shop nearby though, so I'll order switches and replacement feet (both from AliExpress, because apparently that's the only place where you can buy those sorts of thing for my mouse), and bring that to them.
 
Really appreciate your advice. If I can save the mouse and NOT end the whole thing to e-waste just because of a low quality switch, that'll be great.

I am not able to judge your level of dexterity, but if the steps in the video below seem doable, it's not really harder than it looks. A very basic soldering kit seems to be around $20 on Amazon and should be fine for something like this.
 
For switch recommendations, I personally like silent ones, so I got the Huano silent microswitches with a 20M click rating. I haven't been paying too much attention to switches since upgrading mine, but the Kailh GM 8.0 are generally well regarded, and have an 80M click rating. They do seem to be somewhat heavier to press than the D2FC.
 
 
For similar mice to the Anywhere 3, I can only think of the Anywhere 3S and Razer Pro Click Mini. They are both very similar in size and shape to the 3, and have a free wheel mode. Unlike the 3, they both use silenced switches, which are not necessarily more reliable. The 3S uses a different receiver than the 3. The Pro Click Mini uses AA batteries, it can't be used on glass, and you tilt the scroll wheel to side scroll. Rtings also menitoned the scroll wheel feeling loose and not precise, and not having clearly defined steps, in their review. Imo, neither seem like much of an upgrade, given their more expensive price.

You're confusing OP's PSU with a completely different one. The V850 V2 you were confusing it with uses 8 pin connectors for both CPU and PCIe cables, while the V850 uses 6 pin connectors for the PCIe cables. Which is the entire point of this topic. 
 
The V850 uses all 18 AWG wires, as you'd expect from a Seasonic. 16 AWG is also thicker than 18 AWG, so all 18 AWG wires is the typical corner cutting you get from Seasonic. 

It claims to be 80+ Bronze 230V EU rated, but I couldn't find any brand on the 80 Plus website that had a name like that. So I'd be very sceptical of their other claims as well. 

It claims to be 80+ Bronze 230V EU rated, but I couldn't find any brand on the 80 Plus website that had a name like that. So I'd be very sceptical of their other claims as well. 

Missing pin is a -5v rail which has been missing on every single PSU since late 2000s. Issue is not due to that.
https://bardimin.com/en/hardware-en/24-pinout-voltage-at-atx-power-supply-to-the-motherboard/

There are 66 different 80+ Gold rated 400W PSUs. Which one of those is it?

There are 66 different 80+ Gold rated 400W PSUs. Which one of those is it?

Always go multi rail if possible. "Single rail" is just the marketing way of saying that they cut corners on the protections by omitting multi rail OCP on the 12V rail. Gullible people unfortunately fall for it, and some of those even think it's better. 
Does it matter? If you're curious about a specific PSU, just read a review on it. 
https://hwbusters.com/psus/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-850w-psu-review/
 
If you want to compare a handful of PSUs, you can also just ask about those specifically. 

Yes. All they need to do is connect or not connect the sense pins to ground. This is something so simple you could do at home, by just running a wire between the sense pins and ground.
Read below.
 
Read below
 

There isn't any fancy communication going on between the PSU and the graphics card. All it is, is different configurations of pins being shorted to ground or not. 
 
The included 12VHPWR cable is not an adapter, it is a native cable, just like the CPU, PCIe and SATA cables are also not adapters. 

As I said, there is none of that communication going on. Sense 0 and sense 1 are used to indicate how much power the cable can supply, and that just depends on which of them are shorted to ground. Sense 2 and sense 3 are optional, and do nothing on any current PSU I'm aware of (although their function is defined in the ATX 3 design guide).
 
And once again, the 12VHPWR cable on the HXi is just as native as any other PSU with a 12VHPWR cable, the only difference is how it looks. How the connector looks on the PSU side is completely irrelevant to the function of the PSU. You wouldn't think that a green painted PSU is any better or worse than a black painted PSU, same as you shouldn't think that a PSU with a 12VHPWR looking connector on the PSU side is any better or worse than a PSU with Minifit connectors on the PSU side.

There isn't any fancy communication going on between the PSU and the graphics card. All it is, is different configurations of pins being shorted to ground or not. 
 
The included 12VHPWR cable is not an adapter, it is a native cable, just like the CPU, PCIe and SATA cables are also not adapters. 

Did you reuse any of the cables from the old PSU?