seon123

Just solder it back on. 

I'm guessing the hot swap socket came loose. Could be from you pushing in the switch without supporting the hot swap socket from behind, as you really should do. If you open the keyboard and check the PCB from behind, you might be able to tell if this has happened. 

You'll probably be better off getting a higher end 750W PSU, so neither of those. Where are you buying from?
 
It does not matter. Same as with literally all the other PSU cables. No PSU has SATA connectors on the PSU side of the cables, but people don't complain about that, because it also doesn't matter. 

I use to support similar products from another company and had to work with the audio and firmware teams. I don't know if Logitech work the same way, but basically you'll need the dev tools from the manufacturer of the chip they used. If you're lucky, you can just alter values to change certain characteristics. At worse, you'll have to change how it works. Even in the simple option, you need to know which values affects what. Without documentation, you're going to need to be a hardcore hacker to work this out. Basically, if you have to ask how to do it, you probably can't.

Well using our brains and looking at the photo.. the cable they include is XLR to 3.5mm so... So no it doesn't need phantom power as if it did that cable would be entirely useless as your 3.5mm mic jack doesn't provide phantom power.

Modular power supplies used to be a lot simpler, pic related is an ultra x connect from 2004
it uses male to male cables
4 pin cpu power on both ends, 20 pin on both ends, molex on both ends, etc

 
 Corsair and evga basically decided one day that it was a better option to lock people into specific cable ecosystems that only worked with specific power supplies, so if you damaged your 24 pin somehow you couldn’t just buy any old 24 pin, it has to be their special one
 
so blame them for that stupid 18 + 10 thing, psu end modular cables are miserable and we’re just kinda stuck with them

I can at least say that cheap PSUs aren't as bad now as they used to be, but you still have to watch out and go for the reputable brands.  A few years back the market was flooded with what JonnyGuru called "gutless wonders", which were $15 to $30 PSUs with all sorts of high wattage and power delivery claims that could only handle half of what they were rated for, and would then (quite literally) blow up if you tried to go over.  I once disassembled one of these (Diablotek 400-something watt) after it had died and inspected each of the components, and found that the primary power components themselves were only rated for up to about 200W.  On top of that, all safety circuits such as overload and surge protection and others that are REALLY important had been left out and replaced by jumper wires!  Without these protections, failure can send a power surge through the system and cause damage to every component in the PC.
 
$65 will get you a decent PSU.  It certainly won't be anything top of the line, but as long as it has decent professional reviews, comes from a reputable brand and your peak system wattage is maybe 2/3 to 3/4 of the rated PSU wattage, you'll be fine.

Regular switches like the MX Brown are going to be fairly loud. They don't make a noise just from actuating the switch, but they still make a noise when you bottom them out, and when they top out. If you want quieter switches, you need to look for silenced switches, like the Boba U4, Zilent, Box Silent Brown, etc.

You could check out the r/mechmarket subreddit for services. In order to make the switches hot swappable, you'll want to get Millmax or Holtite sockets added to the PCB. You could also get the switches lubed and/or change them for different ones. 
 
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/?f=flair_name%3A"Service"

For full-size keychron is still my safest go-to, so have a look at the K10 Pro, the V5 max (the V6 max doesn't exist yet, sadly) and the Q6 Pro and Max. The latter ones are pretty expensive, for that amount of money you can build pretty nice customs. The 100% is an issue though.
 
Now, most of these only have BT wireless, with only 90Hz polling rate. Not sure what this means for latency and how sensitive you are to this, but competitive FPS gamers might be picky here. The MAX versions have 2.4GHz in addition to BT, so they should have better latency afaik. However, I use wired peripherals for games and have no real experience with this kind of stuff.
 
However, as a compromise: would a e.g. TKL plus numpad be an option for you? Like these:
https://epomaker.com/products/cidoo-v87?_pos=12&_sid=32a750b94&_ss=r
https://epomaker.com/products/cidoo-v21?_pos=10&_sid=32a750b94&_ss=r
 
Using a dedicated numpad would allow you to expand the list of available keyboards quite a bit.
 
 

The Keychron Q6 Pro comes to mind. Bluetooth wireless is always a bit hit or miss no matter the brand, as is as Keychron's customer support (might be worth getting from Amazon, in case you want to return it), and having lights on will always reduce the battery life quite substantially. For software, it supports VIA, so you don't need any software running, and you can configure the keyboard in the browser if you want.
https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q6-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard
https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Programmable-Double-Shot-Hot-Swappable-Switch-Grey/dp/B0C49KPRPL
 
Epomaker also has some options, although the wireless ones don't support VIA.
https://epomaker.com/collections/96-keyboards
 
Different versions of keyboards like the Corsair K95, Razer Blackwidow, Steelseries Apex etc have always been similar in quality and features to $30 Redragon keyboards, so I don't see why it would be significantly different for their newer wireless equivalents. If you get them from Amazon or another store with a good return policy, you could just try them and return them if you're unhappy.

You can use both connectors on a single cable. It's only really an issue with cheaper cables, like those you find on lower end and Seasonic PSUs.

You can use both connectors on a single cable. It's only really an issue with cheaper cables, like those you find on lower end and Seasonic PSUs.

Power supplies are rated at there max sustained rate , Transient spikes are a part of ATX 3.0 spec and are actually rated for short bursts well beyond there rated wattage.
 
Some can sustain more than that , For example my PSU is rated at 750w because it is also rated as platinum efficiency , In testing it will hold a sustained 850w just fine but that would bring its rating down to gold so they rated it at 750w.
 
As per the atx spec.
 
Rated for up to 200% of rated power for 100μs (with a 10% duty cycle), That's actually much longer and much more time spent above rated spec than any transient loads will give.
 
I have no problem with you suggesting a very high wattage psu if the OP is planning a 4090 and 14900k in the future but with your logic everyone should buy a 1000w psu just incase which is nuts.
 
The OP gave no indication he wants a 4090 in the near future so why jump to extreme scenarios for no reason.

It's really not. The efficiency of modern PSUs rises really early, and stays pretty much constant up to 110% load. E.g. the RM1000x 2021 is 85% efficient at an 80W load, very similar to the Whisper M 450W, which is 89% efficient at 80W. At such low power draws, that equates to 14W power loss from the RMx vs 10W from the Whisper M. Don't worry about getting a low wattage PSU for the sake of saving a few watts, and just get a decent PSU within your budget.

It's really not. The efficiency of modern PSUs rises really early, and stays pretty much constant up to 110% load. E.g. the RM1000x 2021 is 85% efficient at an 80W load, very similar to the Whisper M 450W, which is 89% efficient at 80W. At such low power draws, that equates to 14W power loss from the RMx vs 10W from the Whisper M. Don't worry about getting a low wattage PSU for the sake of saving a few watts, and just get a decent PSU within your budget.

So here’s how you do this math even without pcpartpicker doing it for you, since apparently you just want other people to google things for you.
 
Look up the 7800xt and scroll down to its specs page:
https://www.amd.com/en/products/graphics/amd-radeon-rx-7800-xt

now that’s pretty generalized, that’s amds reference card spec. You can also get this same information from techpowerup which has an entire database of gpu specs.
If you’re getting a specific aib variant you can check what they list as well, factory overlocks increase power consumption.
 
Do the same with the cpu
https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-7900x

Now tdp isn’t actually wattage but its close enough, am5 as a socket can actually tap 230 watts of real power delivery by spec, and most factory speed higher end CPU’s will be somewhere below that. You can find that out by looking up “cpu name power draw” and there’s usually a bunch of reviews on most mainstream CPU’s that shows power from the wall metrics. 
 
So now with those two components, we have 433 watts of potential draw under peak synthetic load at stock speeds. And that’s just the two core components. The other stuff is either negligible or has rough coverall estimations. For example your ram power draw is unimportant, as are fans or coolers unless you have a massive amount of fans. Custom water cooling sometimes you need to take that stuff into consideration but if you’re doing that, you’re not asking about power draw, because you probably already know.
The motherboard itself it’s generally considered as 50 watts for average boards, 100 watts for enthusiast boards with high end chipsets. So we’ll just tack 100 watts on to cover that idea.
533 watts under full synthetic load. Cool, so a 600w psu? Absolutely not. 
 
Power supplies are named by their peak short burst output. A 600w psu is rated to hit 600 watts for maybe a second or two. It can sustain usually 100 watts less, for most modern power supplies anyway. Which is why when people are calculating power draw, you see psus recommended usually 150-200 watts higher than needed. To accommodate for extended full system load. 
So accounting for that you want basically a 700-750 watt power supply for your 430w core power draw estimate. 
Note everything is an overestimate, power supplies have a pretty wide efficiency range so being a bit over is not a concern. You don’t want to scrape by with the bare minimum you need.
You may also want to go over for room for overclocking your hardware, or potential higher power draw items in the future. The 7800xt is fairly power efficient for its tier of gpu, but lets say in a year you find a good deal on an rtx 4090, now your power draw under load goes from 263 watts to 400 or more for higher end models. And your 750w psu is no longer suitable, it’s the bare minimum. Keep longevity in mind.

Single colour LEDs just use 2 pins. RGB LEDs use 4. If you want another colour, just get single colour LEDs in the colour you want. 

No harm done 🙂
 
Yeah, I managed to run a 4070 + 5600x on a 460w psu. It's not a powerhugry card. 
Now I run it on an Asus 750w Loki ssf. No noise apart from some coil whine I haven't determined if comes from my gpu or psu. 
And my case fans, but that is a story by itself... 

Looks good, though still, 1000W is way overkill for the 4070. If the fan ever does turn on, it uses a ball bearing, which will be more noticeable than a fan with a FDB or rifle bearing at low RPM. Not that it should ever do that, with a 4070 Ti. But other than that, I don't see any issues, good PSU from what I can tell. 
 
When you install the PSU, with that case, it might be a bit better to have the PSU fan facing upwards. That will allow some passive airflow through the PSU from the case fans, and heat from the PSU will rise up and away from the thermal sensor, allowing it to stay passive for even longer. 
 
I realise I could have been clearer too, since I managed to confuse both you and OP, apologies. 
 
That's literally the PSU that was too loud for OP. Did you even read their post? 

I just realized that we probably have been talking past each other. I apologize. I thought you didn't want to use the page, but suggested PCPP instead. I agree, the specific reports are the way to go, but the overall rating is a good start to figure out what to investigate 🙂

There isn't one. But if someone goes on a forum to tell people what PSU to get, I'd assume they have a rough idea of what PSUs are quiet, so they would only have to check a few PSUs at most for specifics. I don't expect you to have that kind of stuff memorised, don't worry. 
 
The RMx Shift is the only one I'd definitely recommend for silence, under that price. Just keep in mind that the cables come out of the side of the PSU, so you need to make sure your case is compatible. The 750W should have no problems handling a 4070 Ti, and should remain passive until at least 450W load. After which it starts the fan at 500 RPM. It also has hysteresis, which should avoid the fan constantly turning on and off under load, unlike some lower end PSUs. The 850W and 1000W models are also available for under €200, but they are unnecessary, imo. 
https://it.pcpartpicker.com/product/bGJp99/corsair-rm750x-shift-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-side-interface-atx-power-supply-cp-9020251-na
 
For specific noise levels, scroll down to the PSU model on the website, and download the .PDF of the full report. Scroll down to the 230V section. There is a noise graph, with colours indicating the noise level. You can also look at the 10-110% load tests, to find specific dBA and RPM numbers at various loads. 
https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=database&params=1,0,28
 
Don't try to generalise by entire brands. Intel and AMD both make good CPUs, but you wouldn't be surprised if a Celeron or Athlon don't perform well. Same with PSUs and PSU brands. 
 
OP literally says they're in Italy. When did I also say to use different sources to compare PSUs? You gave a source, I told you how you could better use that one source to compare PSU noise levels, by using their actual numbers, instead of one overall letter rating. 

Would be more surprising if they were positive.
 
 
Still disappointed in LTT for deciding that this is the sort of people they want to do collabs with. Even giving the benefit of the doubt that they just didn't know, it's disappointing that they didn't look into who they're collabing with before getting to the point of no return and having to go through with the collab.