seon123

Yes. Both use Corsair Type 4 pinouts. 

My PSU was super hard to fully insert modular cables on the PSU side, I actually caught my error later on. Could be the same thing.

Note that a 2000 watt power supply requires a 20 amp circuit on 120v electric systems (North America and Japan). Intermittent loads can burst up to 1850 watts, but code says a continuous load should only be 1500 watts (80% of a circuit's rating).

It just dawned on me that I haven't posted this information here yet, so here goes.....
 
Thermal Putties have come a long way in the last few years. For starters, TG-PP10 got discontinued which was a huge blow at the time since that was the go to putty for quite a while amoung cooling enthusiats. It was that event that spurred me on to find a viable replacement. I've since spent thousands of dollars buying different putties, pads, pastes, and phase change materials to test out their realtive performance. Below is the current chart for where I'm at in my testing. Currently working on testing thermal pads and will do shims after I've got a good amount of pads on the chart. Let me know if there is a thermal pad you'd like me to test.

...also, if you know of a thermal putty that isn't on the chart I'd love to know about it. Gotta test em all!

Test Bench:
==========
-Vertical open air frame, with GPU mounted Vertically
-Superflower Leadex III 850 watt Gold
-ASUS Tuf Gaming X570 Plus Wifi
-AMD Ryzen 5900X
-4x8GB G.Skill 3200MHz 16-18-18-38
-Link Up x16 Gen 4 PCI-E Riser cable
-Zotac 3070ti AMP HOLO Edition
-AquaComputer Quaddro montioring ambient air temp ~1" in front of GPU fans

Test Methodology:
==============
-Apply product to VRAM only, uisng TG-PP10 on the VRMs and MX-4 on the core
-Apply MSI Afterburner settings: +1100 OC Memory, 85% fixed fan speed
-Run HWINFO and start a log
-Run a thermal test for at least 2 hours (ETCHASH, Furmark, KAWPOW)
-Convert CSV to Excel workbook and process the data within a spreadsheet
-Ignore the 1st hour of the test (warm up period)
-Calculate average temperature delta based on ambient air temps for the enitre 2nd hour of the test
-Chart results

Below is a simplified chart of the current results I've achieved for the ETCHASH test (memory intensive, not much stress on the core)
 
 

You can press any combination of 3 keys on the 2024 without issue. With the G15, you're only ever guaranteed 2 keys at the same time. If you don't need to press more than two keys at the same time, the G15 is fine. But if you, let's say, game, the G15 is just not good. 
 
With that said, Logitech is hilariously behind on mechanical keyboards, and you don't need to cherry pick in order to make it look bad. 

No. The flagship Seasonic Prime TX-1600 ATX v3.0 is fully happy to send 1600W down a single SATA cable into a faulty SSD. 
 
You're not the only one to think high end single rail PSUs would have that sort of protection, but the protection you're imagining is exactly what multi rail OCP on 12V is. 

"Single rail" isn't really a thing. It's just the marketing way of telling the consumers that they cut corners on the protections and omitted multi rail OCP. With a 1200W single rail PSU, a faulty SSD could pull 1200W through the SATA cable, potentially causing a lot of damage. A PSU with correctly configured multi rail OCP would just safely shut down in that scenario. 

also worth considering, especially for such high spec power supplies, if they have a "zero fan" mode and spend the great majority of time in said zero fan mode, it might be better for PSU thermals to have fan side up.
 
i run my power supply fan side up for this reason.

93°C is under the TJmax of 100°C, so assuming it's mounted correctly, it just means that the CPU cooler fan isn't making more noise than needed by spinning unnecessarily fast. 

If you care about the data, you might want to take out the SSDs and bring them on your carry on. They're quite small and quick to remove/reinstall. Insurance can help pay for lost components, but data is more difficult. 

I just realised that at 5:30, they referred to the G5, while OP has a GQ. So either the EVGA rep misspoke, or (the GQ and G5 are very similar, and FSP OEM) both models have the same pinout issue. 
 
On EVGA's website for PSU cable compatibility, the G5 is listed as being compatible with most of EVGA's PSUs, no other mentions. Let's hope this doesn't actually affect the G5

yup you're right. that's gonna be an issue!

I've actually been in contact with CableMod on reddit and I'm hoping we can prevent this from happening to any of their customers.
 
And I'm positive that cables weren't mixed up. They're labelled according, to match the power supply. This is the only EVGA power supply that I own and the cables (and power supply, obviously) are labelled "EVGA GQ".

Here is the latest update :
 
 
After waiting to hear back from EVGA all day Tuesday, I followed up via email this morning asking what the status was with this issue. I was told that their recommendation was to contact the hard drive manufacturers and try to make a warranty claim there. Unfortunately one hard drive is out of warranty and the other hard drive may be eligible for a warranty claim - but they are both out with a third party data recovery service currently having the controller boards replaced.
I wasn't particularly happy with their "solution" as it seemed like they simply wanted to wash their hands of the situation. My reply to them outlined how this was impractical as I would need to buy new drives to migrate the data to (the data recovery company told me that they recommend not using these drives after they are repaired - only use them to migrate off the data), at an upfront cost to me. Additionally, I am having to pay for the data recovery service, shipping the drives, not to mention all of the lost time and productivity spent troubleshooting this problem.
 
EVGA replied that they "recommend checking on the warranty option first" on the hard drives, and the following:
So all that to say, I'm not exactly happy with how this is being handled, given that this matter is entirely the fault of EVGA and a serious mistake.
 
I'll continue to update as this progresses..

Both are kind of terrible if you have functioning ears. Instead of wasting money on twice the wattage you need, you'll probably be better off getting a better, lower wattage PSU. 450W is already plenty for a 4060 Ti. Where are you buying from?

TLDR there’s a whole bunch of nerds who haven’t seen daylight in 15 years who do nothing but measure and compare power supplies all day, and they rank all the mainstream power supplies on an ever changing tier list.
 
The intention was to bring the complicated quality dynamics of consumer power supplies to the uneducated consumer in a clear and concise way to make it easier for the uneducated consumer to choose a power supply.
Even if it’s not on the list, you see the qualities that get a power supply certain tiers on the list and can use that information to judge what you choose.
 
How it has actually come to play out is those absolute basement dwellers parade their tier list in a sense of consumer elitism, taking the approach that you MUST buy an item from the higher end of the tier list, you as a consumer aren’t smart enough to make your own decisions. You are not allowed to weigh the realistic use case and expectations of your system, your psu must be the best or better than that. 
And in order to convince people of this, there’s been years now of a demonization campaign against lesser known or lower tier power supplies, with no consideration to their real use case, and actual consumer concerns.
 
An RM850x is a very good psu. You do not need to think about it any further than that. It is more than adequate for your build, and will allow for upgrades in the future if needed.

Cougar is hot trash, even worse than CX650m on the paintjob.

If you want cheap 'er' done, there are much better PSUs. Acbel is far better and they're not even the best OEM remotely.

Go Seasonic.

Using daisy chained PCIe cables from reputable brands is fine. They use MiniFit HCS terminals and 16AWG wires to the first connector. So Corsair's one is fine to use, even for 375W GPUs (with 300W through the cable). Be aware that some sketchier brands (notably Seasonic) cut corners by using regular MiniFit Jr. terminals and 18AWG wires to the first connector, meaning you should not use them for GPUs with a TDP above 225W.

I guess I've been slacking in posting some of the group buys that finally have arrived:
 
First up is the SP-111 R2 in lavender:

I decided to build this out with Gateron Melodic switches, Durock V2 stabilizers (mainly because they came with 3U wires) and the keycaps are some Domikey SA Cyberpunk ABS caps. 
The switches are mounted to a (badly) modded carbon fiber plate. Modded in order for it to fit the ISO enter and the split left shift. As a solder PCB was the only choice, obviously the switches are all soldered in. And yes, it's a pain the ass to solder 111 switches, but I fear the day i might wanna try some different switches. 
 
This board is actually really fucking nice, and I know this is weird, but for me the best part is the dedicated caps-, scroll- and numlock indicator lights. it's something you see way too little on custom keyboards. It's also nice to have a custom keyboard with a numpad. 
And while not a roomy keyboard, it doesn't sound like it. I would honestly liken the sound of the keyboard more to old plastic keyboard than the modern customs made of metal. It sounds really good with the clicky switches. I do think a lot of the sound is down to the very isolating sandwich mount, where the plate goes all the way to edge of the case, creating a band around the entire keyboard. 
 
The only two bad thing I have to say so far is that:
You have to reflash the firmware yourself in order for the keyboard to work properly. Else the keymapping is all over the place and VIA/QMK/VIAL won't recognize the keyboard correctly. Took the better part of two day to figure out what was wrong, but now it works perfectly and the keymapping is just like it should be.  The recess for the USB cable (both for the computer connection and the connection between the two halves) is extremely shallow. So while I do wanna use a longer cable between halves, I can't fit any of the cables I currently have in my possession.      
 
Next up is the Machina Orbit in red with a copper bottom:

This is a hefty 65% keyboard, weighing in at 2,55kg fully build with a POM plate. 
 
The switches used are Gazzew Boba U4Ts, which have had their springs swapped for a long 100g double springs. So it's an extremely heavy and very tactile typing experience, which you won't really find with any other switch. The switches have also been lubed with Tribosys 3204 and filmed with Deskey poron films. 
The plate is POM and the keycaps are KAM Command PBT caps, which are are sculpted, flat keycap profile. It uses TX AP stabilizers, which are my current favorite stabilizers to use, as snap-ins are so easy to install. 
The plate and PCB are mounted using rubber gasket in the tadpole-style.
 
The only mod I've done to the board is the forcebreak mod. I don't really know if it was necessary, but I did it just to be safe. It's not like it's going to hurt. 
This is also a really nice board that doesn't really need any foam. it did come with both plate and case foam, but I opted to not use any of it. And the sound is really nice and full. 
 
Man, I'm jealous of that Zoom 98. It's one of those boards that I really wanted to try, but I just couldn't justify the price to myself. 
I've pretty much loved all the Wuque/Meletrix keyboards I've tried, but I have yet to actually own one. One day maybe...
 
Also,  the WS Morandi switches are some of my favorite linear switches. Considering their price, they're a bargin.

Just get this cable from a local retailer. It has to be specifically for Corsair Type 4, don't get just any random one. 
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/pc-components-accessories/cp-8920284/600w-pcie-5-0-12vhpwr-type-4-psu-power-cable-cp-8920284
 
The TX850M should come with two PCIe cables. Did you lose the second one? 

Supernova G5 is an entry level Gold Rated PSU with ACRF platform and has shut down issues with recent (semi-) high end GPUs.

The efficiency "curve" on a modern high end PSU can be modelled as two straight lines. An almost vertical line from ~0W load, up to ~90% efficiency at ~100W load. From there, it's a pretty much horizontal line up to 110% of the PSU's max load, meaning pretty much the same efficiency, no matter the load. 
 
Which is to say, ignore the efficiency, as well as anyone babbling on about mUh EfFiCiEnCy, as it's just a way for clueless people to pretend they have some useful advice for choosing PSUs. 
 
You can actually find data for the Leadex VII XG 1000W and 1300W on Cybenetics. The 4080 Super has a 320W TDP, so expect the PC to draw about 400W from the PSU under a gaming load. At that load, the 1000W variant was measured to be 91.9% efficient, while the 1300W was 92.5%. In terms of actual wattage, that means the 1000W PSU draws about 3W more than the 1300W PSU. It's a meaningless difference.  
Download the full report if you want to check the data for yourself. 
https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=database&params=1,0,55
 
The only difference you might notice, is that the 1300W variant is able to stay passive for longer, while the 1000W might spin up it's fan while gaming. Depending on if the PSU has hysteresis for the fan control, as well as how it's implemented, you might also end up in a scenario where the fan constantly turns on and off every few minutes. Again, only if it does not have properly implemented hysteresis, which is not even certain. 
 
The only drawback of higher wattage PSUs, is if the brand cut corners on the protections, and omitted multi rail OCP on 12V. This is the case for the Leadex VII XG, meaning the 1300W PSU has the potential of causing more damage in the case of some types of failure. E.g. if a SATA SSD fails and has a resistive short, the 1300W PSU can push ~1750W straight into the SSD without shutting down, while the 1000W should shut down at "only" ~1400W. Same for any other component that fails in the same way, 1750W straight into the motherboard, GPU, CPU etc. A PSU with properly implemented multi rail OCP would shut down at far less, typically 200-500W. All of that might not make a difference, or it could stop a fire. 

The efficiency "curve" on a modern high end PSU can be modelled as two straight lines. An almost vertical line from ~0W load, up to ~90% efficiency at ~100W load. From there, it's a pretty much horizontal line up to 110% of the PSU's max load, meaning pretty much the same efficiency, no matter the load. 
 
Which is to say, ignore the efficiency, as well as anyone babbling on about mUh EfFiCiEnCy, as it's just a way for clueless people to pretend they have some useful advice for choosing PSUs. 
 
You can actually find data for the Leadex VII XG 1000W and 1300W on Cybenetics. The 4080 Super has a 320W TDP, so expect the PC to draw about 400W from the PSU under a gaming load. At that load, the 1000W variant was measured to be 91.9% efficient, while the 1300W was 92.5%. In terms of actual wattage, that means the 1000W PSU draws about 3W more than the 1300W PSU. It's a meaningless difference.  
Download the full report if you want to check the data for yourself. 
https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=database&params=1,0,55
 
The only difference you might notice, is that the 1300W variant is able to stay passive for longer, while the 1000W might spin up it's fan while gaming. Depending on if the PSU has hysteresis for the fan control, as well as how it's implemented, you might also end up in a scenario where the fan constantly turns on and off every few minutes. Again, only if it does not have properly implemented hysteresis, which is not even certain. 
 
The only drawback of higher wattage PSUs, is if the brand cut corners on the protections, and omitted multi rail OCP on 12V. This is the case for the Leadex VII XG, meaning the 1300W PSU has the potential of causing more damage in the case of some types of failure. E.g. if a SATA SSD fails and has a resistive short, the 1300W PSU can push ~1750W straight into the SSD without shutting down, while the 1000W should shut down at "only" ~1400W. Same for any other component that fails in the same way, 1750W straight into the motherboard, GPU, CPU etc. A PSU with properly implemented multi rail OCP would shut down at far less, typically 200-500W. All of that might not make a difference, or it could stop a fire. 

I have many Logitech mice in the house, some have had the double click issue. I just replace the switches. Once I've replaced the switches with upgraded switches, I've yet to have another one fail.

TL;DR: Found a software solution I'm comfortable with
 
Still reading? Here's the (slightly) longer version:
You're absolutly right, didn't think of that!
Have never used it, seems interesting. Although when trying it out on my windows desktop it didn't detect my K55 attached to it...
Wow those look really cool and I'll keep them in mind. But I should have specified, that I need a solution for my MacBook when I'm on the go. I don't want to carry a separate keyboard for that. A small macro pad would be fine.
 
 
What I found super interesting was, that there is a anyhotkey script, that apparently (without trying it out) does what I want. You can press a hotkey, type the macro that you want and replay that. I'll try to post the link later on.
 
My solution: keysmith.app
Yes it's a software solution, but it does what I want really fast, with now "programming" needs, I can costumize the recording in an easy way (which I can't on my K55) and also the free version is plenty good for me.