seon123

Imagine taking several days to make a song. That's totally unprecedented, that's soooo much effort, and definitely not half assing and slapping something together.

Yes. Both use Corsair Type 4 pinouts.

You're just smelling flux burning away. It's normal, and should eventually go away. The temperature reading is meaningless without knowing exactly where in the PSU it's measuring, so I wouldn't worry about it either.

$40 used to be a reasonable amount to spend on a PSU for a low end system, but you somehow managed to pick some exceptionally awful ones. $20 used to be the price of a CX450 2017 after rebate, and $50 would get you a Formula 450W, $60 maybe a Whisper M 450W. PSUs in between would mostly be whatever. The CX 2017 is a decent entry level PSU, and the Bitfenixes are actually quite good, and even have more protections than something like the Seasonic Prime TX-1600 ATX 3.0. (Seasonic of course famously cutting corners on protections in all budget classes) But prices and models change, and any reasonable person would see that and adjust what PSU to get. From just looking at PCPP US, I'd say the A550BN for $60 would be a decent PSU for systems where those extra $20-30 up to a higher end PSU would be more useful elsewhere. At this budget my requirements for a PSU aren't even high, it's just independently regulated outputs, and the basic protections (except for multi rail OCP, which is fine, but not ideal, to omit for lower wattage PSUs). I do not care about modularity, noise, HCS terminals, LLC, connectors or fan at that price. I do agree that people often spend too much on PSUs, but they should do actual research to find the cheapest PSU that fits their requirements, instead of just getting a random cheaper PSU like you'd apparently recommend them. As I've never changed away from my entry level case, I'd say the case. It doesn't have 2.5" slots, room for cable management or even 5Gbps USB, but it's fine. Same with the CPU cooler, my 212 Evo is fine for about 125W with reasonable fan noise (albeit changed fans). A more modern cheap cooler will be fine to cool 125W, especially if you're more willing than me to sacrifice on noise. Fans, probably. One intake, one exhaust is fine for a traditional layout case, and lower power components will be fine. The storage can be cheaped out on, somewhat. An MX500, 870 Evo, or another 3D TLC SSD that has a RAM cache is more than plenty, and wasting money on a cheaper DRAMless SSD, or a more expensive NVMe SSD is just usually not worth it, imo. The graphics card can be cheaped out on, as in getting one with a more basic cooler. You can always just strap on an aftermarket cooler, just like with CPUs, if it becomes an issue, and it can save quite a decent amount at the time of purchase.

If GPU mining becomes viable again, and you decide to do it, you'll just want the highest wattage PSU you can find, and shove as many graphics cards in as possible. That would probably require one of the few 2000W PSUs out there. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#A=2000000000000,2050000000000 If you want a more realistic answer, that would depend on what you're likely to upgrade to. If you're on a mainstream platform and with a single GPU, and use ambient cooling, a good 850W has always been enough, and is still plenty. The important part though is "good". If you can't afford a high end 850W PSU, you don't need it, and you should instead focus on getting a good PSU, instead of an unnecessarily high wattage PSU.

You can press any combination of 3 keys on the 2024 without issue. With the G15, you're only ever guaranteed 2 keys at the same time. If you don't need to press more than two keys at the same time, the G15 is fine. But if you, let's say, game, the G15 is just not good. With that said, Logitech is hilariously behind on mechanical keyboards, and you don't need to cherry pick in order to make it look bad.

No. The flagship Seasonic Prime TX-1600 ATX v3.0 is fully happy to send 1600W down a single SATA cable into a faulty SSD. You're not the only one to think high end single rail PSUs would have that sort of protection, but the protection you're imagining is exactly what multi rail OCP on 12V is.

"Single rail" isn't really a thing. It's just the marketing way of telling the consumers that they cut corners on the protections and omitted multi rail OCP. With a 1200W single rail PSU, a faulty SSD could pull 1200W through the SATA cable, potentially causing a lot of damage. A PSU with correctly configured multi rail OCP would just safely shut down in that scenario.

It is single rail, which is a bad thing.

You are saying random terms that are meaningless together. The 12+4 pin is not rated for 1200W, the 6+2 pin is not rated for 750W, and a cable does not have rails. Please try to explain what you're actually asking, without trying to cram in technical terms.

93°C is under the TJmax of 100°C, so assuming it's mounted correctly, it just means that the CPU cooler fan isn't making more noise than needed by spinning unnecessarily fast.

Looks like the Endorfy uses a standard 75% layout, so you can just get a gradient keycap set from Glorious. It includes extra keycaps for the nav keys in the correct profile and colour. https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/glorious-pbt-black-key-caps

Why are those the only two options? Where are you buying from, and what are you powering? I really doubt your system actually needs anywhere near 1200W, which should give you more PSU options. Among those, easily the Hydro PTM Pro. It has a higher hold up time, which could matter, depending on your electricity grid and UPS, but more importantly, it's quieter. It was passive at 600W on the Cybenetics report, while the Hela R was passive up to 360W. And the Hydro PTM Pro was also just quieter at all loads. PSU calculators are useless and overestimate by a ton. If OP wants a random number, they're better off going to random.org. If you know this little about PSUs, please stay far away from trying to give advice on PSUs. FSP is a major OEM, just like CWT, which manufactured the Silverstone. That refers to the noise rating. If you have functioning ears, it matters. If you are deaf, it doesn't. But it's even better to actually look at the report and check the noise numbers, as it's better to know how loud it is under your specific system's idle and load, than some average rating.

I just realised that at 5:30, they referred to the G5, while OP has a GQ. So either the EVGA rep misspoke, or (the GQ and G5 are very similar, and FSP OEM) both models have the same pinout issue. On EVGA's website for PSU cable compatibility, the G5 is listed as being compatible with most of EVGA's PSUs, no other mentions. Let's hope this doesn't actually affect the G5

If you care about the data, you might want to take out the SSDs and bring them on your carry on. They're quite small and quick to remove/reinstall. Insurance can help pay for lost components, but data is more difficult.

Using a more expensive switch for the sake of saving 0.05W of power is wasteful

Yes. HX 80+ Standard, HX 80+ Bronze, HX 80+ Silver/Gold, HX 80+ Platinum. I am asking which one you have.

Which of Corsair's 4 different HX series is the PSU from? When did you get it?

But there isn't. There's no "probably", Steelseries shows all the keycaps included in the set, none of which are a 1.75u R1 keycap. There aren't even any 1.75u keycaps, no matter the profile, other than Caps Lock, which I assume will be used for Caps Lock.

PBT is a type of plastic, and double shot means two different types of plastic are moulded together. So PBT double shot keycaps means they are made from PBT, and (usually) that the legends are made from a different colour plastic. Compared to pad printing or laser etching, this means the legends will not wear off over time, and can't just be scratched off. Mostly. The process of taking the keycaps on and off really is that simple. Make sure to use a wire keycap puller, as the plastic ones tend to scratch the sides of the keycaps. However, the physical layout needs to be supported. Notice how the right shift key on the K65 Pro Mini is shorter than standard. The Steelseries kit does not include a 1.75u right shift, which you would need to fit there. The keycaps on each row of the keyboard usually have a different shape. https://www.keycaps.info/ The PgUp and PgDn keys are on different rows than standard on the K65 Pro Mini, which the Steelseries kit also does not include extras for. If you are going to put some thought and effort into your keyboard, I really suggest at least looking at different options than just Corsair and Steelseries. A relatively easily accessible option is Keychron, whose Q series actually offers significant differences over a $30 Redragon keyboard, in terms of typing feel, while not being that much more than Corsair's offerings.

The Q6 has four switches above the numpad. Those are not a part of a standard full size layout, so you can use them for media controls if you want.

Type 3 and Type 4 cables are actually compatible. The only difference in pinout between Type 3 and Type 4 is in the 24 pin, which has 4 extra pins on Type 4 for Vsense. But you can shove a Type 3 pin cable into a Type 4 PSU, have four empty pins at the side of the connector, bend the retention clip, and everything will be just fine. Corsair did have other model-specific cables, which were not compatible, but Type 3/4 specifically was never an issue. When I started reading, I thought it was another case of a user reusing incompatible cables and frying their HDDs. But that doesn't seem to be the case here. I thought EVGA had mostly sorted out their PSU pinout shenanigans, but apparently not. EVGA's page for modular cable compatibility says the GQ isn't compatible with any of their individually sleeved replacement cables, but I assumed they just didn't make them. If EVGA really changed their pinouts, custom cable makers like @CableMod might want to verify that they also aren't sending out cables that fry HDDs. There is still the chance that you accidentally mixed up and accidentally reused some modular cables, and that the EVGA tech is also confused (EVGA changing pinouts on newer model PSUs vs EVGA changing pinouts on older vs newer GQs). But assuming that isn't it, yikes.

Both are kind of terrible if you have functioning ears. Instead of wasting money on twice the wattage you need, you'll probably be better off getting a better, lower wattage PSU. 450W is already plenty for a 4060 Ti. Where are you buying from?

From what I could find, the PSU only has 12V rails, with 11Vsb. Where did you find that it has 3.3V, 5V and 5Vsb rails? The adapter you sent has some shrink wrap in the middle of the cable, I suspect it might have a voltage converter for the standby rail.

That says the opposite of Intel. According to them, it could be an issue especially on old systems. I would not worry about the PWR_OK delay at all, and instead worry mainly about ripple, when it comes to testing sketchy PSUs, as that is what actually kills components over time, outside of catastrophic failures.