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Interests
Does anyone read this?
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Biography
I'm a boring cat
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Occupation
Internet cat
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Certified Cat
System
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CPU
Ryzen 5800X
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Motherboard
MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic
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RAM
2x16GB Ballistix 3200MHz CL16
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GPU
Powercolor RX 5700 XT Red Devil
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Case
Cooler Master Elite 430
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Storage
120GB 850 Evo + 128GB SSDNow V + 240GB WD Green SSD + 1TB Crucial P5
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PSU
Seasonic Prime Titanium 650W
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Display(s)
Samsung S27D391
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Cooling
Hyper 212 Evo
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Keyboard
KBD75V3, Boba U4, Durock V2 stabilisers, KAT Cyberspace
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Mouse
G502 Lightspeed
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Sound
WH-1000XM3
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Operating System
Windows 10
seon123's Achievements
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From what I could find, the PSU only has 12V rails, with 11Vsb. Where did you find that it has 3.3V, 5V and 5Vsb rails? The adapter you sent has some shrink wrap in the middle of the cable, I suspect it might have a voltage converter for the standby rail.
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That says the opposite of Intel. According to them, it could be an issue especially on old systems. I would not worry about the PWR_OK delay at all, and instead worry mainly about ripple, when it comes to testing sketchy PSUs, as that is what actually kills components over time, outside of catastrophic failures.
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The Intel PSU design guide explains why they recommend at least 100ms for the PWR_OK delay https://edc.intel.com/content/www/us/en/design/ipla/software-development-platforms/client/platforms/alder-lake-desktop/atx-version-3-0-multi-rail-desktop-platform-power-supply-design-guide/2.1a/2.0/ Check chapter 4.3, and Table 4-10. Note 2 for that table. 100ms minimum is recommended for older generation systems. (It's a .pdf file and I cba copy pasting it properly in text) It also takes some time for the voltages to rise to the required values, so there should be some non-zero delay before the PSU sends the signal, just because of that.
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SF600, RTX 2080, H115i ICUE and not enough 8 pin PCIE ports!
seon123 replied to Bradders's topic in Troubleshooting
Using daisy chained PCIe cables from reputable brands is fine. They use MiniFit HCS terminals and 16AWG wires to the first connector. So Corsair's one is fine to use, even for 375W GPUs (with 300W through the cable). Be aware that some sketchier brands (notably Seasonic) cut corners by using regular MiniFit Jr. terminals and 18AWG wires to the first connector, meaning you should not use them for GPUs with a TDP above 225W. -
The RX 570 is a 150W GPU, so expect the entire system to draw about 220W from the PSU. Depending on how the rails are set up, the CPU and PCIe connector might be on the same rail, although I wouldn't expect that. However, the fans still spinning are a pretty clear indication that it's likely not a PSU issue. A PSU triggering its protections would cause the system to just lose power, as if you just pulled the power cord. Did the PC work fine without the GPU? Is XMP enabled? Did the GPU work in another system? That does not matter. 250W should be enough for a system like that.
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That's a non-standard PSU with only 12V output (and probably 12Vsb). Which GPU are you trying to use, and what are your full specs? What do you mean by crashing? If it's just cutting power suddenly it might be a PSU issue, but if it's giving you blue screens or similar, then it's likely something else.
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Why do you want to change your PSU in the first place? Post a picture of the label on the PSU
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Just get this cable from a local retailer. It has to be specifically for Corsair Type 4, don't get just any random one. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/pc-components-accessories/cp-8920284/600w-pcie-5-0-12vhpwr-type-4-psu-power-cable-cp-8920284 The TX850M should come with two PCIe cables. Did you lose the second one?
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It's a low end PSU, but should be fine. Don't be surprised if it has coil whine.
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High end PSUs are rated for 50C intake temperature, while outputting 100% of their rated capacity. At above ~45C, you aren't even able to sense temperature, and it's just pain. The PSU would also spin its fan at 2000 RPM if it were getting too hot, which you would definitely notice (although a PSU with a fan spinning fast does not necessarily mean it's overheating).
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It lacks multi rail OCP. You can see this by looking at the output table for the PSU. There is only one column for 12V. That means that any device using 12V can pull the full capacity of the 12V rail (+ an additional ~40%, as the protection is always set higher than the max capacity of the rail). A PSU with multi rail OCP on 12V will have several columns for 12V, showing the max output per rail. Typically, each rail has 1-2 connectors, meaning that's the max capacity a cable can pull (again with ~+40% before the protection triggers). If the only two options are available, probably the 1300W. Although I would suggest looking for 750-850W PSUs, as those should be significantly cheaper, allowing you to spend that money elsewhere more meaningful. E.g. a higher end SSD, quieter cooling, sleeves cables, etc.
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OTP is over temperature protection. It has that protection. Multi rail OCP on 12V is a completely separate protection. Ignore any PSU tier list, just look up information about the PSUs you're looking for, at the loads that are relevant for you. A PSU tier list does not care that your system is going to draw 400W under load or the relative prices of PSUs. Those are things you can easily find information about, and that matter more to you than an arbitrary rating on a tier list.
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The efficiency "curve" on a modern high end PSU can be modelled as two straight lines. An almost vertical line from ~0W load, up to ~90% efficiency at ~100W load. From there, it's a pretty much horizontal line up to 110% of the PSU's max load, meaning pretty much the same efficiency, no matter the load. Which is to say, ignore the efficiency, as well as anyone babbling on about mUh EfFiCiEnCy, as it's just a way for clueless people to pretend they have some useful advice for choosing PSUs. You can actually find data for the Leadex VII XG 1000W and 1300W on Cybenetics. The 4080 Super has a 320W TDP, so expect the PC to draw about 400W from the PSU under a gaming load. At that load, the 1000W variant was measured to be 91.9% efficient, while the 1300W was 92.5%. In terms of actual wattage, that means the 1000W PSU draws about 3W more than the 1300W PSU. It's a meaningless difference. Download the full report if you want to check the data for yourself. https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=database¶ms=1,0,55 The only difference you might notice, is that the 1300W variant is able to stay passive for longer, while the 1000W might spin up it's fan while gaming. Depending on if the PSU has hysteresis for the fan control, as well as how it's implemented, you might also end up in a scenario where the fan constantly turns on and off every few minutes. Again, only if it does not have properly implemented hysteresis, which is not even certain. The only drawback of higher wattage PSUs, is if the brand cut corners on the protections, and omitted multi rail OCP on 12V. This is the case for the Leadex VII XG, meaning the 1300W PSU has the potential of causing more damage in the case of some types of failure. E.g. if a SATA SSD fails and has a resistive short, the 1300W PSU can push ~1750W straight into the SSD without shutting down, while the 1000W should shut down at "only" ~1400W. Same for any other component that fails in the same way, 1750W straight into the motherboard, GPU, CPU etc. A PSU with properly implemented multi rail OCP would shut down at far less, typically 200-500W. All of that might not make a difference, or it could stop a fire.
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If you have a mouse that you like, and the only thing wrong with it is the switches, just replace the switches. A screwdriver set, replacement switches, a soldering iron + wick, and mouse feet is going to be cheaper than a whole high end mouse.
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You can use any daisy chained cables on GPUs with a TDP at or below 225W (cables delivering 150W of those). Any reputable company will also use HCS terminals, which makes them fine to deliver 300W. The RMe included. Only sketchier companies (Seasonic is notorious for this) use regular Minifit Jr. terminals on their higher end PSUs.