IAMABOSS

Alright sounds like a plan, keep us posted!

Its will be fine, hop in Corsair's RMA support line, https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/company/contact/ I think that is their UK support, its difficult to find the UK link from the USA since it redirects me to the US page lol. Also, just pull the PSU, swap it out for another unit, you said you had an older PSU, put it to use!

Just saw that last part, Ryzen does not have onboard GPU unless you have a R3200G, R3400G, R2200G, the motherboard has HDMI if it is being used with those CPUs but a 2600x does not have any IGPU at all. That HDMI will not work at all, you will need your RX 580

Yea that does not sound too great, you can unplug the PSU from the PC, (just pull it out of the system, remove 24 pin, CPU power, sata, all of it) Once the PSU is just sitting on a table, you can use a paper clip or spare piece of wire to test the PSU (Guide below). If it pops or anything, its dead, and will need to be RMAed. Without the paperclip, the PSU will just not turn on, but hopefully the guide makes some sense.

If you have another PSU, go ahead and swap it out and test your system, then RMA the Corsair PSU.

No smell is great news, the protection circuits in the PSU are working, so what exactly did the PC do when you turned on the power? Just make a pop sound? How long did you leave it on for?

Yea pull that PSU out ASAP, maybe contact Corsair to get an RMA going, and let them know about the rest of the system. Sounds like it may be tripping the internal breakers/protection circuit in the PSU, have you noticed any smell from it?

You will need to GPU in the system, If the pop killed anything, its already dead, so there is no harm in trying it again. This is why I told you to remove everything that is unnecessary, that way, no matter what, those parts cannot be damaged further, which is unlikely, the pop did whatever it did, time to find out what still works. Plug er in!

Well, only one way to find out what is going on then, unplug everything in the system that is unnecessary, run one stick of ram, and no boot drive, just try to get to the bios. Could test your PSU on another, cheaper, system, or get a tester for it. If no smoke has happened then it may be good, typically when electronics die they have a electrical smell to them, which you say has not happened yet. Make sure the other electronics in the room where your PC is are not also having problems with the power. If all that happened is the breaker to your room tripped, then everything should be fine in the PC, but consider testing it on another circuit, like downstairs. Start by plugging it into the wall and turning on the switch on the PSU on, then attempt to boot the PC into the bios. If at any point the power trips or has any sparks or smell, kill the power immediately. I don't think that anything is dead, you probably just tripped a breaker and the PC did not like it, if something had died, then you would have smelled it by now.

Ok if the power went out in your building then it could have been a power surge, a cracked heat pipe probably wont kill the gpu, just run hotter. I am starting to think that heat pipe is not the problem. Could ask your neighbors if they are having problems with their electronics. With a power surge with no surge protector it may have just killed the PSU, which can cascade into a multitude of dead hardware. Has the PC turned on since the power went out? Or non responsive since?

That to me looks like a cracked heat pipe, pull the GPU out and see if you can take more pictures in better light.

Ah nice you fixed it! I figured it was just some dumb BIOS options being turned on. Have fun crushing everyone's CPU scores!

Ok, my suggestion is to install Ryzen Master https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/ryzen-master Clear your CMOS, this will reset the BIOS to factory settings https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1040820/ (It will still use the latest bios, just change the settings back to stock) Once both of those are done, enter the BIOS and enable XMP then open Ryzen Master and enable Precision Boost Overdrive. (Test your clock speed first maybe, clearing the CMOS should fix the issue) Make sure that PBO is Green and hit apply. If you do not have Ryzen Master installed, then you do not have PBO on.

DDR(4) is Double Data Rate, so 1600 X2 = 3200, so yes your ram is fine. I really do not know what could be causing this, try increasing the power limits in Ryzen master. You can increase the voltage in Ryzen master under auto OC or Manual OC modes. Also increase the Numbers at the top. (PPT, TDC, EDC) There are lots of guides on how to do this on Youtube/Google. This is what Ryzen Balanced Power plan looks like just for reference, under additional power settings. The slider on Power & Sleep should be maxed to performance. I am starting to think that this issues I something else and beyond my realm of knowledge.

Ok go install Ryzen Balanced Power Plan ASAP, that is probably your problem. Ryzen on windows needs certain optimizations from the power plan otherwise the CPU will be limited in performance. Other than that I have no idea what could be causing this issue.

Hello, I have a few questions? A. What is your Power Supply B. Have you installed the Ryzen Balanced Power plan, if not https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/chipset-install C. The H80i really is not up to the task of running a 5900x a crazy high clock speeds, Ryzen's frequency scales with temperature right out of the box like a GPU does. So a cooler CPU will naturally clock higher, and that H80i is likely having some water permeation considering its age (unless it is the V2 version and new). 60 is pretty low temps on Ryzen and it should clocking higher. D. Try enabling Precision Boot Overdrive, then run a benchmark like cinebench 10 times and record the temperature once the AIO has reached heat saturation. PBO will auto overclock the CPU, so it may clock up higher, and definitely hotter, other than that maybe you just lost the silicon lottery.

Ok, first, the minimum recomended PSU for a RTX 3070 is 650 watts. When in a game, which is probably how he tested it, its not going to get near the max power draw, but if you use the PC for something like folding at home (on both CPU and GPU) or a benchmark on both the CPU and GPU at the same time, he would have overloaded it. It is never a good idea to run a $500+ GPU on a mediocre PSU maxing it out all the time. I stand behind my recommendation that it needed to be replaced.

The flickering problem sounds like software to me then. You could google around like "name of game" flickering, and see if anyone else is having problems. The general ideas are to update the game and Nvidia drivers, and turn off any other programs like shadow play or OBS. Turn off the monitor G sync/ Freesync setting. Just some different stuff you could try. I am very happy you like the new PSU, it was a necessary upgrade for you system with that 3070, and will last you years, seasonic makes good stuff, and now you have an extra should you want another PC.

Just wondering what everyone things about this The list clearly states the option to choose 3080 TI and 3070 Ti, Check it out for yourself at https://seasonic.com/wattage-calculator Probably nothing, but it does add to the rumor that ti models may be incoming. If they are not real then why would they be on the list?

I think you may be right, but I am not exactly sure, I will need to look into that some more later lol. I do know that how ever they are measured that Seasonic unit will be perfect for your build. The 500 watt PSU you have now just was not going to cut it. One thing about PSU's is that you really do not want to run one at the ragged edge maxing it out every day. If you have only been playing games so far on your system you are not going to hit max power draw. You would need to run a synthetic benchmark on both CPU and GPU to get the true wattage it would draw, I would not recommend doing that until you get the new one in.

CX650M is a mediocre Unit. I would check this one out if you can spare 5$ over the CX650M. Seasonic is one of the best PSU manufactures, Sesonic=Safesonic is an old saying. This on is more efficient than the unit you picked out, and it has a longer warranty. I have owned Corsair PSU's and my current Ryzen build now uses Seasonic. https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-Semi-Modular-Systems-Warranty-Application/dp/B07WTXYHY5/ref=sr_1_20?crid=3NE6SE0TDVC6L&dchild=1&keywords=650+watt+power+supply&sprefix=650+Watt+%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-20 Every decent PSU has an efficiency rating, they represent how well the unit converts the AC wall power into DC that a PC can use. Linus's video on it will explain it much better than me.

DDU is very much necessary when switching vendors (AMD to Nvidia, or vice versa) but is far less important if you went from a 2000 series Nvidia to 3000. You need to account for the voltage spikes that the 3000 series has occasionally, where the GPU can go from pulling 200 watts to 300 for a few seconds. I looked up the 9600K's power consumption it is 123 watts, the GPU is 220. So your 350 watt measurement is accurate, but dose not account for PSU efficiency loss. You PSU is capable of 456 watts on the 12V rail, assuming an 85% efficiency that will give you an effective 387.6 watts available for the entire system, including fans, usb devices, drives, motherboard VRM losses, and many more things. For a system of this caliber, you really need to be using a 600 watt PSU at minimum. You have no room to spare, do not risk you killing your system by continuing long term use of this unit.

Hello, with your setup (RTX 3070+9600k) the GPU is around 220 watts for the non oc models, so lets assume 250 for yours. The CPU is probably 100-150 watts, so with that in mind, your total power draw is probably around 400 watts. RTX 3000 series have been requiring PSUs over the recommended spec due to there power draw, and sometimes they can have spikes up a lot. I would suggest a quality PSU from the gold or blue rating in the tier list. I would say you should look for a 550-650 watt unit. I always like to find my PC's power requirements and then add 100 watts to them to ensure that I am under the limits. Your system is a high end build at this point, and should not be risked with a bad PSU. May I ask what GPU you had before the RTX 3070, and did you use DDU to uninstall and reinstall the GPU drivers? It may be contributing to the flickering issue.

I really think Microsoft wants to be the Netflix of games, so they are spending what ever it takes to make it happen. Buying Bethesda is just the beginning, I think it may only get more intense from here over the next few years. There are also some big players looking at the game industry, especially game streaming, MSF, Google, Amazon, and its only going to get more crowded. I think Microsoft wants to lock up game streaming and subscription service with exclusive games, so no other competitors can jump in and do what they are able to. Heck in 10 years you could totally see Xbox game pass come out for other platforms, maybe even on a PlayStation, just like how Netflix is on everything, I think MSF could try to get game pass on everything. I have no idea if it could happen tho, I think its a genus move from a business perspective, gaming is going from "nerds" to super mainstream in a very short period of time. I think it may even overtake other forms of entertainment soon and be the one of the biggest industries as more young people exist that care less about traditional entertainment and more about games. What does Netflix have, 180 million subscribers, so napkin math time (180M X 8$) that is over 1.4 BILLION in revenue per month, every month. That is like a marvel movie every month that hits 1 billion dollars, crazy money, and would pay for Bethesda in what, a half year? This is the market MSF is after, and everything else can go to heck. I think that this much money in the right hands could fund development for games beyond anything we have ever seen before, or create another giant monopoly. TLDR: Microsoft wants to be the Netflix of games, I think it could work, but could also be dangerous to freedom of gaming, but it makes great business sense.

Yup, those people are stupid. I really liked the video actually, I though it was well done, just needed a conclusion showing each possible AIO configs, with a TLDR explanation on each. Like, show a picture of each part of the AIO highlighted in different colors and show how the water will always be below air (literally could use a water bottle, and turn it as an example), and how it effects the cooler in each position.