Speedbird

3 minutes ago, Agall said:

There's no personal data stored in EEPROM. If your intent is to clean a device before selling it, simply reinstalling Windows or just not selling it with the NVME drive is a solution. If you're selling it to someone who wants Windows already installed, then just reinstall using the 'advanced/custom' option and manually delete then select the unallocated volume.

 

Technically to clean a drive fully, the recommendation has been 7 passes, but its really unnecessary. Someone willing to do advanced data recovery on a drive they bought online to steal someone's data isn't targeting normal people. If you are worried about that, you could just enable bitlocker and fully encrypt the drive, then do the advanced/custom Windows reinstall from an installation media.

 

If you're just doing troubleshooting and you think its a software issue, the 'advanced/custom' reinstall of Windows from a newly created installation media is the best.

 

Download Windows 10 (microsoft.com)

"Create Windows 10 installation media", and follow the prompts accordingly.

Do not overwrite an SSD, definitely not 7 times! It will heavily damage the drive. Use the built in secure erase command instead.

Got any benchmarks?

I had the exact same model of CPU, and now my dad has one.

8 years and I still keep my tower on the right.

Hello,

I have an HP Elitebook 840 G7 exhibiting a weird issue. When doing certain tasks on one of my external monitors (LG 27GP850), the GPU usage gets much higher than it should on Desktop Window Manager. This is most noticeable when playing a video on YouTube in windowed mode (it does not occur in fullscreen mode), but also when moving windows around fast. It also does not occur when using my other 1080p 60hz monitor. So far, I have tried

• Updating drivers for the GPU, from both HP and Intel's websites.
• Lowering the refresh rate from 144hz to 60 or 120
• Updating to Windows 10 22H2. 
• Using a different browser (Edge)

Many solutions I have seen online for this mention some kind of bug with NVIDIA drivers, but this laptop only has Intel graphics (i7-10810U, intel UHD graphics). 

Have you tried swapping the two M.2 drives between each others' slots?

Gigabyte just released AGESA 1.2.0.7 for my board, B550 Aorus Elite v2. An hour after updating I get the same stutter.

Consider the Dell Precision lineup. Can be affordable on the used market.

Happens for me as well. Gigabyte B550 Aorus elite v2, 5600x, latest BIOS (F13). Here's hoping for Gigabyte to patch it.

Something from ASUS?

Did you apply thermal paste, and how? Is the cooler securely mounted?

Maybe once there's an actual shortage? Hard drives are available at the same prices as always here.

My 970 runs Watch Dogs Legion around 50 fps at 1080p, so I'm guessing GTX 1050 or something?

Just now, angrykoala01 said:

That's what I tried telling her but she's adamant about it. $1000 is her budget but me and mom are going to chip in on it as a surprise

Then your best bet might be a new Thinkpad instead. T14 with an AMD chip for example, but that has upgradeable storage and soldered RAM.

Which is more important, upgradeability or being thin and light? Those are a one or the other type of thing.

What's your motherboard?

If I understand Intel spec correctly, you will be unable to run it faster than 2933 MHz, unless on a Z490 or Z590 board.

1 minute ago, angrykoala01 said:

Nothing honestly. She just wants to upgrade and make her own purchase. You know spreading her wings and try to be an adult type thing

Understandable, but my suggestion wouldn't be much of an upgrade in that case.

What's the budget? The market for used hardware depends a lot on where you live, so I can't make any exact suggestions.

Used Dell Latitudes are affordable, easily repairable and upgradeable, assuming they are available where you live.

What's wrong with the Macbook Air?

15 minutes ago, GA89 said:

What would be ok price for used GTX 1080 TI? Did a quick search and found one for 650EUR, it seems high.

That's about what they cost here as well. It's definitely higher than they should be, as are prices for just about any graphics card whatsoever. If you can wait for prices to go back to normal levels, which no one can say when, I would suggest waiting.

I see no graphics card in the list. The integrated graphics on the 10700K are worse than your laptop's GTX 850M, so I see no point in using that. Or are you hoping to find a used graphics card?

Edit: misread post. For used graphics cards, look for a GTX 1080 Ti.

11 minutes ago, Pc6777 said:

so I set up my computer to be dual boot(at bios level). I have 2 boot SSDs with windows that have/don't have access to certain hard drives. I disabled certain drives in both of my windows installs in device manager and also made it so the c/boot drives cant see each other. will windows ever randomly reenable the disabled drives because an update or something and mess up my separation between drives/boots or will it stay like this indefinitely? on one of the boots I have a normal windows install with a Microsoft account and internet, and the other one I have a windows install with as local account with defender permanently disabled in group policy, and all network access disabled and lots of built in windows stuff disabled/removed for offline/privacy use cases.

It might, there's no way to know for sure. If you need to be sure, you should just unplug the drives or disable the ports in BIOS.

3900X.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-ryzen-7-5800x-zen-3-review/3

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ryzen-9-3900x-7-3700x-review,6214-3.html

14 minutes ago, SupaKomputa said:

Ask someone with the same chips. Or try higher latency, like 18,19,19,21,38 everything else auto, don't forget to set the ram voltage to 1.37-1.4.

Thank you, I was able to get 3600 running with these timings without errors.

1 minute ago, SupaKomputa said:

Ryzen Dram calculator is not very accurate for non samsung chips btw.

What should I use instead?

Hello,

So I've had my Ryzen 5 5600X running with HyperX Fury 2x8GB with Hynix DJR dies of memory at 3200 MHz, but I thought of pushing it to 3600. I downloaded Ryzen DRAM calculator version 1.7.3, plugged in my details from Thaiphoon and went to input everything in the BIOS, although some settings like tRCPAGE were missing. I booted into Windows and went to run membench in the DRAM calculator, but I got multiple errors. Did I apply some settings wrong, or is my RAM just not capable of going faster than 3200?

My motherboard is a Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE V2 with the latest BIOS (F13c). I also have a +200MHz auto OC on the CPU with PBO2 curve optimiser, could that be a problem?

Thanks in advance

1 minute ago, W.D. Stevens said:

Well, for my use case (everyone else's may vary of course) I will have a 1000/50 connection but I'm coming from a 100/20 connection and I get what I need with WiFi 5. The thing is I know WiFi 5 is going to be just fine for what I need. Where I'm going to need/want the extra speed is going to be directly wired anyway. I know future proofing is often a pointless exercise, it just seems to make sense to get the latest standard if it's available and the same price. But if an AC router is going to perform better with mostly AC devices than an AX router would, then that's certainly informs the choice.

Pricing would be the deciding factor. I don't know how AX routers are priced, but if it's 40-50% more than AC variants I would stick with AC.

Depends on your internet speed, the number of devices you use and what you use them for. Higher frequency Wi-Fi (including 5 and 6) can deliver more bandwidth at a lower latency, but it has a shorter range. If you have a bigger house, most devices would end up on the old 2.4 GHz band anyway. Not to mention I've pushed 100 mb/s and higher on Wi-Fi 5 with a quality network card.