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Kc7vwc

Member
  • Content Count

    607
  • Joined

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About Kc7vwc

  • Title
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    kc7vwc
  • Origin
    Kc7vwc
  • Battle.net
    Swift#1243
  • Twitter
    Kc7vwc

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montana, USA
  • Occupation
    Retail

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 2700
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro Wifi
  • RAM
    Ballistix Sport LT 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3200
  • GPU
    MSI RTX 2060 Ventus
  • Case
    Phateks Enthoo Evolv ITX
  • Storage
    970 Evo M.2, 850 Evo SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair RM 750x
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG248
  • Cooling
    Enermax ETS-T50
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K65 RapidFire
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    HyperX Clouds
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. There are plenty of adapters & cables to convert across the digital transfer standards. I've done DisplayPort to DVI in one cable just fine. DVI is capable of 144Hz too, at least at 1080p. Not sure how well all this works with HDMI - I never use it outside of the kid's console.
  2. https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-performance/windows-locks-hz-to-all-monitors-if-animations/8be79839-ee5e-43fb-84f1-7e6b4a8dfad6?rtAction=1485934158802 Microsoft acknowledged this, plus a simple search will reveal it going back several years. I've had personal experience will this issue so I attempted to help & bring more information to the topic. And just because you don't 'need' the extra info doesn't mean everyone else has to thrown it out as well. OP, best of luck. Everyone else knows more than I.
  3. My Radeon software always showed 59Hz & 119Hz, so mine was backwards from yours. Haven't checked with my Nvidia cards. Did setting them both to 60Hz help at all, or is there still stuttering?
  4. What's the point of another panel if you can't use it fully!? You missed the part where he's using OBS/SLOBS on the other panel to watch streaming information. Almost every streamer who's not using a dual-pc setup does. This is only an issue for those of us using, or have used, multiple high-refresh panels, so it might still be a niche problem. But it is a legit problem because there is a benefit to it. 75Hz might not specifically be a desired refresh when better tech is available; but if it's the best his panel can do then by all means he should be able to use it. That's kinda the whole point of PC gaming - we can do it all & most of it all at once.
  5. That I'm not sure of. Every bit of research I've done has suggested this only happens with "mixed refresh rates" so I would have assumed matching rates wouldn't... Closest I ever got to matching refresh's was down-clocking my 144Hz panel to 120Hz, hoping the 'common denominator' with a 60Hz panel would help, but it didn't. I never tried going all the way down to 60Hz on both of them though. After testing with various GPUs, for me it was simply easier to use a single high-refresh panel. All my stream monitoring and media consumption is done on my mobile sitting next to the monitor. @Mick Naughty - it's an issue with Windows, not the hardware. When I tested this with my previous system, I used combinations of R9 390, GTX 1050 Ti, along with the 4690K's iGPU. All of them produced this stuttering, regardless of which GPU was driving which monitor. Displayport, DVI & HDMI all were affected. But, as OP said, it's only when there's a 'load' going to the other monitor - usually video. So, I think I found the video I had seen before. Steve calls it Frame Times (i thought it was frame pacing). Just now I only watched the first 5min or so of this video, so I don't know if they discussed Window's problem in it or not, but it does describe the root issue here with FPS versus Frame Times. And they do address right away that this micro-stuttering with Frame Times is perceptible.
  6. Just adding my two cents, but double check the temps of the 970. I've got one of those sitting under a heatsink on a Gigabyte b450, and it reaches almost 83°c without proper airflow. I pulled the heatsink off to test again, and sitting idle in Windows it was reaching 70°c, which is that drive's Max safe operating temp! Under load hwinfo had it thermal throttling. So double check yours & make sure there's at least a little airflow over the drive itself. The airflow from the stock Wraith Spire cooler an inch away was enough to bring it back to the 50s under full load.
  7. Temperature wise, most pastes are within 3-10 degrees of each other. Where they really differ is longevity. Some will 'dry out' within a couple months or so. If this happens the paste will slowly flake away, drastically reducing it's efficiency. Or they will calcify, effectively fusing the IHS & cooler. (Friend of mine literally broke his Phenom II because the paste glued it to the cooler - see images in spoilers) As @BrinkGG said, just stay away from non-name brand. I just bought 8g of Mx-4 for $5 off Amazon. That's damn near a lifetime supply for most users.
  8. Gamers Nexus did video on this & the problem is FRAME PACING. You're still getting high frames per second, but within that second, the frames aren't spaced evenly. Unfortunately, this is a known issue with Windows & there's no 100% fix - except for removing other monitors or getting another panel that's the exact same. For this reason I have sworn off multi-monitor setups if any of them are above 60Hz. Microsoft is trying to publish a fix, but there's no word on the timing of it. Sadly I've personally experienced this on both AMD & Nvidia. And see you said, adding other GPUs doesn't help either.
  9. Ditto what everyone else said. Most pastes will only differ by a few degrees, 10 tops, performance wise. What might make a difference is the longevity of it. I've had Mx-4 in a couple systems for over a year without issue. I've had a couple times I've swapped coolers but had to use generic paste from the local shop and it dried & crumbled within months. Tl;dr - just stick to anything with a name brand. Arctic 5, MX-4, Noctua, Cooler Master, Kryonaut etc.
  10. Yeah. Think I'm gonna look into a 'low profile' or down-firing style of cooler. It's a pity that very few, if any, of those come in white. Just put my Spire back on & the M.2 is at 57c max (44c idle).
  11. Just tried that. Fresh boot, idle in Windows: 68-73c without even launching any apps. Guess I'm going back to the Wraith Spire.
  12. My specs are listed, and I will include some pictures - But I'm having issues with a 'hot' M.2 SSD. After a boot into Windows, HWiNFO64 has the drive sitting around 34-40c. But as soon as I launch a game, it will spike up to almost 80c - and it never comes very far back down. I played a couple rounds of World of Tanks almost 48 minutes ago, been sitting in Windows with only two tabs of Chrome open (this tab & a Messenger one) and the drive is still sitting in the upper 60s to low 70s. Last night I removed the drive & it's heatsink. There were a couple bubbles under the thermal pad, which I replaced with a new one I cut from a sheet of Arctic Thermal pads. Previously I was using the stock Wraith Spire cooler & the drive never got above 60c with the bit of airflow that cooler provided. With my current Enermax T50 cooler, I tried seating the fan lower down, closer to the mobo to get airflow under the cooler & to the surrounding hardware but it obviously isn't helping. I'd obviously like to keep the T50 cooler on the CPU, both for looks & performance, but not if my boot drive is over heating. The Spire usually tops out around 65-68c with my workloads, so it's a viable option, but a lot louder than my current config. I have two Corsair ML 140MM fans in the front of the chassis that are running around 1400RPM. There's another two 120MM fans in the roof that I put in last night, running around 1200RPM. The RAM is obviously an airflow obstruction, and there's the USB3 cable that could be moved for a bit more airflow maybe. But aside from swapping back to the Spire, anyone else have any options - aside from just cranking the front fans?
  13. Those temps aren't really an issue. But if you want peace of mind, it doesn't take much airflow to cool it. This last weekend I put a 120mm AiO cooler on my system - Ryzen 7 2700, Gigabyte B450 ITX, and Phanteks Enthoo Evolv chassis. I've got a Samsung 970 Evo NVME M.2 under the heatsink that Gigabyte supplies with the motherboard, which is located next to the CPU socket, but is blocked from front airflow by the RAM. Once I put the pump on the CPU, just loading into World of Tanks was enough to push the temps of the SSD over 85°c and it stayed around 70°c when at idle. So I switched back to the stock Wraith Spire cooler - instant drop. Max temp under load was 64°c. So the stock cooler is more than enough. In your case, the SSD is under the GPU. And while it's blowing hot air, it's still air that's moving - same as I was getting from my CPU. Incidentally, my last system had your arrangement, with a Samsung 960 sitting under a Radeon R9 390. That card was a furnace, but the SSD never got above 60°c that I can recall. So tl:dr - your system is good, and ANY airflow across the SSD will help it, even if it's warmed.
  14. Just a tidbit - the Ryzen 2xxx series come with a better Wraith Spire cooler than the 3xxx series do. The older model is made by Cooler Master, has a copper vapor chamber & slower/quieter fan. Newer models are made by Foxconn, are 100% aluminum (no vapor chamber) & run closer to 3k RPM. The cooler on my R7 2700 sits between 2200-2500 RPM and I can't hear it at all. Stock voltages & it's never above 65°c.
  15. I'd guess that the 590 is classed as a Legacy device, usually needing separate & older drivers. I have an 'old' Radeon HD 6450 laying around that requires something similar. Getting it to work with a newer GPU requires installing the older drivers & GPU first, then installing the new hardware & software after. Or, if you're on an Intel platform, you could hook at least one panel to the motherboard & drive it from the iGPU.
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