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xQubeZx

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About xQubeZx

  • Title
    Way to much free time for my own good
  • Birthday 1999-08-17

System

  • CPU
    FX-8350 4.0Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte 970A-DS3P
  • RAM
    16GB Ballistix Sport
  • GPU
    MSI Geforce GTX 760 Gaming
  • Case
    Cm Storm Scout
  • Storage
    500GB WD Blue + 1TB WD
  • PSU
    Chiftec 550W
  • Display(s)
    BenQ RL2455HM
  • Cooling
    H80i Liquid Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Steelseries Apex
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Sensei Raw
  • Sound
    Steelseries Siberia V2
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sweden
  • Interests
    Photography, Nature, PC gaming
  • Occupation
    Student

Contact Methods

  • Origin
    xQubeZx
  • Steam
    BOT xQubeZ
  • Instagram
    @dav1db__

Recent Profile Visitors

1,298 profile views
  1. Camera upgrade

    Ignore max ISO numbers. They don’t tell you anything as they are unusable at their max iso. They will probably perform about equally so I would not stare on ISO alone. Just a few years ago a max iso of 1600 was insane and they got pretty sick shots so I wouldn’t worry.
  2. Camera upgrade

    The 80D (or a 90D if that is to be released soon) is a solid camera and I would personally go with that one over a 77D for the better build quality and those small features. (As the price differnece is quite minor) If you want a step up in the APS-C line the next step is the 7D mark ii. Don’t know if you could find any of those used but there you will get the best AF and burst shooting and so on. Don’t know how many lenses you own either but a viable option to at least consider could be a used 5D mark iii depending on what lenses you have. (Will probably have about the same ISO capabilities as a 80D but also have dual SD cards, tough build, FF look (dof) and all these other small features. But if you are heavily invested in APS-C (AF-S) glass I would not go this way and rather go for a 7D mark ii or a 80D. You didn’t state any budget so this may be out of your range but thought I could at least present the options. And used is a good option. The used Canon market is so large and a lot is in great condition. Especially L-glass lenses for what I have seen.
  3. $500 Camera ideas

    Try to find a used Panasonic LX100 or a Sony RX100. These do not have as good zoomrange but if you want a larger sensor and better image quality that is what you will have to sacrifice.
  4. Pocket shooter recommendation

    I’d go for a Sony RX100 (the version that fits your budget) or a Panasonic LX100 (it has an APS-C sized sensor which is very nice for a point and shoot. My brother has one and the times I’ve used it it has been very nice
  5. Sony a7 or Sony a6300

    A6300. The video features of the a6300 are way better than those offered by the A7. Only reason to go A7 would be to get the FF look and get an more expensive lens as you can find them cheap used. But the low light will be about the same on the two as the A6300 sensor is better. The a7 does for example not do 4k, no log profiles and have really slow AF. The viewfinder is worse too.
  6. Next lens: Canon EF-M 22 or 11-22?

    I’d go for the zoom. If you are mainly doing landscapes with it it is more flexible and the slower f/stops will not matter most of the time as you generally shoot landscapes at f/8 or higher imo. Sure the prime is probably a bit sharper, but that won’t help if you can’t get the shot. And when shooting stars you can get by with a quite slow lens sure it won’t be as amazing as if you where using a fast lens on a FF camera. But the sensors nowadays are so good that you can push them to 3200ISO (at least my Sony APS-C bodies handle it just fine) and do some post processing to make the star images look pretty good. And with an 11mm (16mm FF equivilent) you can push your shutter to at least 30s without getting too much star movement from my experience. And you can always do star trails with say 20min+ shutterspeed that looks sick. Then you can stop down to f/8 and ISO400 ish and get good shots. So what I’m trying to say, I think you will have more use for the Zoom than the prime lens.
  7. What camera gear for a travel video?

    What is your budget? Kinda important to know so we can reccomend anything that would suit you. And will you take any images, like do you want s camera to also take good images or are you only doing timelapses? But if the budget is small I’d look at a decent compact camera as the Panasonic LX100 or a Sony RX100
  8. Lens for city fotography?

    I’d wouln’t care about the f-stops as it will probably be less than a stop difference and is very insignificant when looking for a lens. Things like sharpness, build quality and DOF is more interesting than the T-stop of the lens. Its a good way to measure, sure. But its not something that would outweight the other things when buying a lens. OP, I’d look at rokinon/samyang wide angle lenses. These are MF only but they are sharp, well built and have fast apartures of around f/2. I’d look for something in the 24mm focal length If you want to get AF I’d look at something like the Sigma ART 24mm 1.4 Nikon doesnt seem to have any reasonably priced wide angles so
  9. Canon USM glass on Sony a6000

    Sadly you have to try a lot. I’d go to a camera store and ask them to help you test lenses and adapters on your body to see what works best. But a Sigma MC-11 or Metabones mk iv is probably the best options.
  10. Adapter confusing!

    Why shouldn’t it? It makes perfect sense tbh.
  11. GH5 vs. Sony A7Sii

    I agree with most of this. I’d personally rather get the A6500 over the A7s ii at the sacrifce of the insane low light as that can be fixed with and LED panel. The video specs are way better on the A6500 and AF is miles ahead. (The A7s only got contrast detection AF where as the A6500 got hybrid af (contrast + phase detect)) Lens wise, you get to spend a bit more, but what many fails to realise that most od them are very good which may be why they are a bit more expensive. Like the new Canon and Nikon lenses are quite similar in price, but they also have a huge selection of lenses made in the latest 10 years that of course will be cheaper. Lenses to reccomned are the 18-105 f/4, 35 1.8, sigma 60 2.8 sigma 30 1.4 and samyang 12mm f/2. These are all APS-C ones but there is quite a few good ff lenses aswell.
  12. Rate the Photo Above you

    This is actually a crop of a wide shot. Only one I have on my phone though as I posted it to my instagram (where vertical shots is the way to go)
  13. Rate the Photo Above you

    Making sure amateurs don’t mimic risky stuff is always hard. I do a lot of rock climbing both indoors and outdoors as well as working as a trainer (not an educated instructor yet so I’m not allowed to teach out how to use saftey stuff and so on). But I often see inexperienced people trying to copy what more experienced climbers do, or worse, just expect they can learn how to belay on the fly. That does not work as it is a lot of risk taking involved and mostly the evaluation of risks. For example, I know if you are climbing on ”lead” indoors you basically should never take a fall before the third bolt (because this may very well result in a ground fall). An amateur would not think of this, like at all. And I’ve seen it for myself where you had to step in and tell them how to do it properly. So my point is, people will always try and replicate things without knowing and it is very hard to prevent it. Even if you provide info, they often ignore it. You as a ”pro” or what you want to call it should not have to take responsbility of an amateur that haven’t evaluated the risks properly. Now enough of that. Here is an image of mine. And the one on the car above, I liked the edit but I think I would have prefferd a slightly wider focal length and a bit more motion showed in the image.
  14. The Canon is however not very small but it performs well. The fuji is way more expensive than 1000USD, at least here in Sweden. You’d get about the XT-10 and 1 lens. Maybe 2 if you find good deals used wich sadly is hard with fuji gear. (Barely any for sale) Agree about the Sigma 60 for portraits. Have used it myself for that and it works very well. If you want a wide angle zoom for versatility that is cool, but they are generally more expensive. So for a budget option you should probably stick to primes. (There is of course some cheap really crappy zooms but I would stay away from those) The new Sigma 16mm 1.4 DN could be an amazing wide angle option if you are willing to wait some weeks for it to start ship. The price will hopefully be around the same as the Sigma 30 1.4 DN at around 300USD. Will probably get this lens myself actually as it seems pretty awesome, if the price is what I’m guessing.
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