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ohdatpro

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  1. Hello all, My LG V40 Thinq is on its last leg, mostly because it was dropped (not by me!) and the screen glass is chipping off even more now, so the screen is sure to be unusable soon. Given that I am still in university, I would very much like to avoid getting a new phone and I really do not mind a refurb or used unit. I am certainly an android guy, however, an iPhone is not 100% out of the question. I was initially considering futureproofing for 5G, but I feel like it's still too early to even consider getting a device that even used is $400 USD or more. The LG V50 or V60 Thinq have been in considerations, mostly the V50, because they hover around that price in the used market. My other thought was getting another V40 for about $200 USD, wait for 5G to be at full force and then get something better that will assumedly be in that $400 USD range. Curious to see what the community thinks and if you have and recommendations, please share! Thanks!
  2. My motherboard for some reason is emitting some sort of electrical hum, however, it is only audible when amplified via a soundboard, for example. Upon startup of the PC, the hum is more of a crackle and gradually turns into the steady hum that I am writing about. This hum is rather loud via AUDIO OUT, however, is still noticeable via AUDIO IN, especially during vocal productions., however, not as loud. I tested to make sure it was not just a case of bad IO by taking the the cord for AUDIO INPUT from my board and touching metal contacts around the motherboard, including the IO and sure enough the hum was still readily available to my dismay. The board does not shock me and it functions. No, this is not a case of ground looping, I have tested all of my equipment, PC included, on both the same power strip as well as separate connections. I have also taken a copper strand, connected it to a metal contact emitting the hum, and attached it to the aluminum case as a ground, but it still sounds the same. From what I have gathered, it is either the power supply or the board itself. Anyone one have any ideas? Thanks
  3. I already have the equipment picked out. This is basically a question of how much, if any, interference is introduced with line in over USB. I'm well versed in audio equipment, that is not the issue. The question is the connection solution to the PC itself. Your audio chain can be the best in the business but the sound can change based on ground loops, interference, etc.
  4. With all due respect, we need definitive information and user experience, not a guess.
  5. I am currently investing in high-end audio equipment but wanted to ask the question, which interface connection is "better", USB or a 3.5mm line-in solution. Does line-in have a greater chance of introducing interference or *hums* over USB? If line-in isn't actually inferior, I would assume that it's better overall, but again, I'd like further input. Thanks in advanced!
  6. Rock on man. My proudest PC moment was rebuilding a RAID 0 array after a BIOS update, fun fact, if you update your BIOS with a RAID array, you lose your array. IT SUCKS, but I did it.
  7. It shouldn't, but I've had an interference with GPU drivers in that past that just drove the entire system wonky.
  8. This probably better to try first. But what I was implying was to remove your current drivers for your GPU before before your install the 2060
  9. Try reinstalling your old GPU, uninstalling your old GPU drivers, and then reinstalling your new GPU.
  10. ohdatpro

    (SSID) 2?

    So, for whatever reason, it seems that at startup my desktop, connected via Ethernet, now shows the name of my network with a 2 beside of it with no internet connection. If I unplug and then re-plug my Ethernet cable, it reverts back to the SSID without the 2. Any idea what could be going on? Note: recently, we had some new neighbors move in and we generally see if our neighbors want to split the bill with us (apartment building). One of the guys really wanted Ethernet, so I ran him a cable through a backdoor of sorts. He had bought a router and I think I saw it connected the last time I was over there, but I cannot be certain. Not sure if that has anything to with the strange occurrence, but I thought it was worth noting. Also, I am a novice at best in regards to networking. I have experience, but it is limited.
  11. I see, this could indeed be a potential issue, something to certainly look into. With that being said, wouldn't an access point per unit associated with MAC addresses address any potential legal issue?
  12. So I have been talking with my landlord about establishing a network for my apartment building and in turn, he lowering/paying for my internet bill. I am familiar with networking, however, I have never done it on a large scale. I pay for Xfinity/Comcast gigabit/enterprise package which has no bandwidth limit. I proposed him having using this network for his building of 5 units which houses less than 20 tenants, so this would be perfect. Assuming that comcast will permit me to have multiple static IP addresses, what is the best way to allocate those IP addresses to each unit? I assume the best way is via a network switch with multiple routers, but I am not too familiar with that hardware. Thanks for the help in advanced!
  13. Man, these things really are the devil. So, does a part that works functionally not be read by a driver correctly? I recently replaced a PS2 Slim laser that did function, with the red laser working and everything, however, the disc did not spin. My understanding is that if the disc is not read, it may not spin. I checked via CD and DVD and nothing responded either time (yes I tested it with the case off and pushed both buttons). Does this mean that it could need realigned or the laser is not outputting to the driver (or it just doesnt work)?
  14. So I have been tasked with repairing a bunch of PS2s, mostly slims. My boss is under the impression that PS2s are of the devil and that all of the models of slims require different hardware. I don't believe that they do, but I would I would rather not have to check each model number EVERY TIME I repair one so I was wondering if anyone has any insight on the repair of PS2s in general, but more specifically PS2 Slims. Help is wonderful, but please, only leave a suggestion if you actually know what you're talking about. Thanks!
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