captain cactus

Yes, IF clockspeed is directly tied to the RAM speed aka RAM at 3000 MT/s runs at 1500 mHz memory, so the IF runs at 1500 mHz.

Because they can, and because it's still a bazillion times faster than, lets say, a Red Rocket, which also costs $7000. So it's not even that "expensive".

This means diddly jack if it's still running with a tickrate of less than 20 for most of the time.

"Almost half of US Facebook users are unaware that Facebook makes money by selling info about their activities and interests" that should ring some bells here and there shouldn't it

As a Dutchman, I can only say one thing.

Single channel RAM

So, after running my system with no issues on the motherboard box for a while (Ryzen 5 1600@ stock, 16GB LPX3000@2133 ASRock AB350 Gaming ITX/ac, Vega 56 UV to 1050 mV@ 1530MHz) while waiting on the case I got my system finally installed in my new Phanteks Evolv Shift and I ran into problems the moment I turned it on. First it wouldn't boot at all. Then it would sometimes boot but the screen looked like a dia show with massive tearing left and right, even in the BIOS and finally it would sometimes take ages to even get to the post screen, even though the monitor was showing a green light (aka GPU is sending data of some sort). Took the system out of the case again, plugged my V56 directly in the motherboard and whaddayaknow, no issues at all. Put it back in the system, it works for a couple of boots, but as I'm typing I can definitely feel the system being sluggish, and booting up PUBG (which ran at a solid 100+ fps most of the time on stock CPU, 2133 RAM and UV GPU) it was barely braking 40 fps average, jumping up and down between 20 and 60 multiple times per second. Running Unigine Superposition (which also run fine before case installation commenced) and GPUZI can see the GPU clock jumping up and down between 1530 and 1300-ish and power usage jumps between ~200W (normal for UV Vega) and 130W, indicating some form of power delivery issue, and that's with 50% extra power limit. I checked the riser cable with a multimeter and every connection gives that highly annoying beep when you touch the contacts of the multimeter, so no cable breaks or shorts are present to my knowledge So I can currently think of two things here that could be wrong, both have to do with the cable Panteks ships with the Evolv Shift. Either it's something in the data transfer from the CPU to the GPU making the whole thing feel sluggish or the GPU isn't getting enough power over the PCIe slot due to bigger-than-expected power losses in the cable causing severe power throttles. Is there something else I forgot here that coule be it? Browsing the Phanteks forums I can see more people with other cases that have a Phanteks riser cable with issues, which is why I think this is a similar issue.

No headphone jack, no thanks.

One word. Undervolt.

Can't wait for my SSD to return from RMA so I can install the thing again.

It's not like you could update the older game with these new features rather than have it all in a new game with a new-game price tag.

At this point they might as well re-release the 8084 on LGA2011 and nobody would be surprised.

Basically this: And don't try to scroll over to get the handles, it'll just make you stuck on the image selector and scroll that in and out.

Well thanks for that. RMA it is. Backups are nice but I didn't expect a 3-week-old SSD to become corrupted after a driver install. Will do.

Yeah I'd rather not if there's a way to at least get it to go past any BIOS post stuff and visible in Windows so I can at least get some data off of it before reformatting it for a fresh install.

bumpy the bumpy for bumps, gonna need something soon.

So I DDU'd some AMD drivers because of an audio-over-HDMI issue, went to reinstall the drivers but it blackscreened halfway trough and never came back. Hit the reset switch, was put into the BIOS immediately. Saved changes and exit, booted into BIOS again. Saved changes and exit, but now it doesn't boot into anything. I've cleared the CMOS, went as far as disconnecting the CMOS battery (to truly reset it to stock) but no dice. If I remove the 960 Evo from the M.2 slot the PC boots into the BIOS just fine. If I plug my W10 boot USB into the back, it boots into that just fine. But as soon as I connect the M.2 960 Evo the PC posts only to the initial motherboard manufacturer logo and that's it. It doesn't respond to any key presses to get into the BIOS or boot menu or anything, it just sits there unresponsive. I don't have an external NVMe drive enclosure to put the 960 Evo into to wipe it via my laptop, so there's that. What are my options here? Have some way to reset it while it's in the PC? Or at least a way to get my motherboard past the logo so I can reformat the drive and start a fresh W10 install?? Motherboard is the ASRock AB350M Gaming-ITX/ac with a Ryzen 5 1600 @ stock, 16GB of Vengeance RAM running at 2133 for the time being and a reference Vega 56. EDIT ok so now I have another W10 Pro install onto an USB hard drive working. Thought I could maybe boot from that and have the NVMe SSD as a secondary storage options so I can have it at least boot and show up in Windows, but it's the same situation as before where the system won't go past the ASRock logo when the 960 Evo is installed.

On top: my old temporary GT220. On the bottom: MSI Vega 56.

With rendering and compute tasks the extra cores do matter since that bypasses the front end and ROPs. Vega is (like Fiji) bottlenecked as balls on geometry and frame pushing since it's still 4 shader engines. SPs aren't properly fed so the extra SPs are just sitting idle most of the time.

Indeed it isn't which is the entire problem. Good luck unlocking your phone with winter clothing on your face or with a rain coat in stormy conditions. You'd have to go half nude before your phone will unlock. The FaceID system is basically nothing more than Apple's excuse for not having an under-the-glass TouchID sensor in time.

Nah, only the really dumb idiots will. Even people with cash to burn will take a second look at these new phones just because of their prices. I mean $1000 for a piece of fragile glass, nobody in their right mind buys that.

Honestly, at this point, if you truly want an iPhone, get a new 6S and be done with it. It does everything the 8 and X can while being somewhat affordable. If you want some really nice high-end features, go Android.

So the 8 is basically a 6s with a glass back that you can't see because you'll want to put a case on it, and the X is the same as an 8 (so a 6s) but with a bigger screen and because Apple couldn't make a fingerprint scanner under a screen they went with a facial scanner. And they want to charge $1000 for that? So basically get the 6s for $450 and you're good to go.