tailslide5_0

I recently upgraded from one to two 780 ti's, I'm loving the performance upgrade. I switched from an RM 650 psu to RM 1000 for extra cushion, plus amazon had them for $130 at the moment. Not sure what 780 ti you have, but newegg has refurbished evga 780 ti SC ACX for $350. EDIT: They're $399 now, but there's a few other versions at good prices too http://m.newegg.com/ProductList?Keyword=780+ti EDIT 2: Mobile link doesn't work on the desktop. Here http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=780+ti&N=-1&isNodeId=1

Username: tailslide5_0 https://www.vessel.com/videos/aqw5QkS_N https://www.vessel.com/videos/MI7F0u2H8

My h100i works fine in my 250D. When I tip it a little, it will make air bubble noises for a few seconds, but that's all. Your noise sounds catastrophic...

I am using the Kraken G10, and for VRM cooling I use the stock front plate, which is slightly modified to allow the H75 block/pump to sit down on the GPU. I had to dremel about 3 mm off the inside of each of the 4 plate tabs for it to work; the block is 54 mm wide and the tabs were 52 mm across. I tested the stock plate vs heatsinks on the VRM, and the stock plate cools better by about 5 deg C. Because of that, I recommend the Corsair HG10 over the Kraken G10 w/ VRM heatsinks, as long as you have a reference style cooler that is, which I don't.

Here's the problem I see- If you put a G10 on the top card, the bottom card will still give off a lot of heat, and while your top card's GPU temps may be reasonable, the VRM temps may not be, even with heatsinks. With just one card, the fan can keep VRM temps (mostly) under control, but with an external heat supply in addition, the VRM could be doomed. And VRM heatsinks don't always cool as well as the stock plate BTW, two Corsair HG10's may be an option because of the bracket heatsink it has, but I wouldn't recommend only cooling one card. Full loop for both cards is still best.

LOL, I love how a lot of threads start out like this, with the "Well, yeah. It is what it is, you didn't know that's how it is?" until someone with legitimate knowledge speaks up with "Actually, that's not right because _____ " I also feel that unless you had a second heat source, this should not be so. Something is obviously transmitting erroneous temps...

Not yet, I still need to order smaller heatsinks. These are too big to fit in there.

I'm curious to how well that plate acts as a heat sink...

It looks like that uses the reference centrifugal fan, as in you have to remove it out of your old cooler and install it in this bracket... Unless they sell a version that comes with a fan, us ACX guys are SOL. And yes, I see that it's meant for reference cards, but the EVGA ACX card IS a reference card but with a better cooler.

No worries, man. I see they have pads for the memory VRM, too -the little one on the left. I wonder how well that actually cools the VRM vs open air circulation.

I had an infrared thermometer laying around that I used to measure RC car engine temps with. Ok, good info to know. I guess I never did much research on the concept of VRM cooling, I'll look into some heatsinks for the mosfets. And I wasn't trying to school you, I only posted that for JDS and any others that may read the thread in the future. ;-)

A little googling helped my curiosity to my question, this explains it well. http://www.geeks3d.com/20100504/tutorial-graphics-cards-voltage-regulator-modules-vrm-explained/2/ how basically the VRM is made up of the mosfet, inductor (choke), and capacitor. I think with the heatsink being on the inductor, it reduces the temps of the entire area, thus cooling the VRM as a whole, but additional heatsinks on the mosfets would be best. Just my two cents...

Hmm, so the little black squares right next to the silver blocks are the VRM? My tests before were showing the bigger blocks with higher heat than the black mosfets, so I put the heatsinks there... A quick runup of furmark 1080 right now was showing me a max temp of 81 on the inner black mosfets (~75 on the outer ones), 76 on the block component that I put heatsinks on (~70 deg on the outer ones), and a 49 gpu temp, so about 5 deg higher on the black things vs the silver blocks... I don't think these heatsinks would fit on the little black squares very well, I may order some of the really tiny 1/4"x1/4" ones...

Wow, that's terrible. Almost sounds like the block isn't even making contact with the GPU chip... Is that 87 deg idling just after startup or after loads have been applied? You did clean off the paste and reapply, right? Sorry for late reply, didn't see your post.

I'm running the stock SC , 1150/7000 mhz is what it shows on my rivatuner. Once in awhile I'll put a 50/100 or 100/200 OC on top of that, but not often, and with little heat increase, maybe 2-3 deg