Syntaxvgm

it's sad, actual discussions happened there. Now that I'm one of the few with access, it's dead.

This is another thing to check if you have any in storage. I stand behind usb as the cheapo method to get like tons of drives going that are hot swapable are require no plugging (I've seen 30+ at near full speed with a couple of usb cards), but this seems like a thing you also may have lying around, and any solution you can use right now that doesn't require you to request new equipment is a good solution. For the more long term solution of building something that's full of hot swap bays, these cards are what you'd use.

For the most part, cpu and ram are not with a decent computer if its just sending random data or 0s. You can either have them buy dedicated disk wiping bays, which are automatic and require no computer, or if you want to be cheap just get those drive docks, the usb ones that look like toasters and are about 30-35 US. Dedicated drive erasers that do a configurable number of multiple passes and random data are more expensive that usb docks, but you can go for the 2-3 bay versions which are typically the price per bay and just stack them up. These were my preferred solution, the right ones you slap it in and you don't even need to press a button if it's configured like that. If you go the cheap route and use usb docks, you should use USB 3 if you have it (this is your problem likely), and you can use hubs, just keep bandwidth in mind. Each mechanical drive is probably capable of somewhere in the neighborhood of 90-150 MB/s sustained writes (720-1200 Megbits/second). You don't need 100% as doing more at once is the goal, just keep it in mind. One proper port with the full bandwidth can do 5-6 mechanical drives without much slowdown, where USB2 will only get you 60MB/s on one drive. You can add a usb3 pcie card if needed. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-15-Pin-Connector-KT5001/dp/B00FPIMICA Check their supply storage, most places have at least some usb drive docks, see if they have any good usb3 ones to get you started. If you need to buy them, check benchmarks with both bays going on cdmark, you'll see that in amazon reviews a lot. Even if it's slower, if you can get a fuck ton going at once, that's better too. Try to match the sizes kind of if you can so they finish around the same time and you don't have to babysit. Put a group in before you leave too if you can time it. As for the software, I don't know what they are using, but make sure it works with usb. Some bootable ones have trouble if not configured right, but anything in windows should work ok. Make sure you are at least writing all 0s to the drive, and if they require random data writing, then do it. Do only the number of passes the policy requires- and if they don't require multiple passes don't do it, save time with that many drives. At 2000 drives, this is sounds like a large volume and may be a recurring problem. The alternative is to ask to build a specialized solution. Get the cheapest build with a case the can be filled entirely with 3 bay 5 drive hot swap bays. Or buy a premade solution, but they will cost multiple times more. If you need to work with like SAS drives from servers at a later point, keep that in consideration. Keeping an old decommissioned server with front hot swap bays is cheapest there. Finally, I know in this case they want to reuse, but if they're saving a buck and want you to completely destroy without the automatic equipment in the future, ask for a cheap drillpress, or a cheap corded drill and good bits. Press is easier, safer, and better on your hands though. This is the fastest destruction method that's cheap. You can get a couple hundred drives an hour easy that way. With drives that are marked for destruction, check that they don't have any special policies, like matching DoD or NSA standard or something, like degaussing, which requires specialized equipment and is stupid because it does nothing a few holes or shattering cant unless you got like the fbi or something looking into you and even they would have a hard time- at which point metal shredders are cheaper and funner, though a liability possibly. Some larger companies like to match their policy with shit like this, looks good to upper management or something idk.

Van once rear ended me at the tail end of a traffic jam some years ago in this 2000 dodge stratus I was driving. I got hit so hard that it dislodged my drivers seat (passengers wasn't an automatic), and it made me smack a car in front of me (about a half car length away) despite having my breaks on and wheels staying locked. Airbags didn't deploy of course as they often dont in rear end accidents, so I smacked my head on the wheel hard which as you'd guess is a whiplash action from behind, pretty sure I had a concussion but I denied medical attention at that time because I would have been financially ruined, didn't have health care back then. Still feel neck pain from it every now and then. Anyway the van the hit me (much newer iirc) was completely totaled, front end just caved in, and they were going fast enough that if their airbags didn't deploy they would have been in trouble. My shitty little stratus didn't even completely lose the bumper (I repined it and it looked pretty ok), and it suffered no frame damage either despite force hard enough to break the drivers seat off the tracks a little. It shattered my exhaust and tore an engine mount though. No trunk damage, didn't crack the bumper, slight bends in the bumper mount point but hard to tell. Bulk of the van hit my trunk lid which did't bend in the slightest. Still can't believe that car's body came out in one piece despite that much force, like I don't know how it can derail a seat, shatter the exhaust in multiple places, and tear an engine mount (one was already bad I knew of, so it probably rocked easily and it was probably already rotted) and look like you came out of a parking lot accident on the outside Actually a year or so later, someone backed into me in a parking lot and did more damage to the rear end the the collision did. Point is cars and physics are funny, and where you get hit and by what can take the same car from no cabin intrusion to complete collapse- even on a car with crumple zones- at speeds that are not all that high if it gets hit just right. Older cars are death traps often, because even though they hold up well and sometimes better in a lot of collisions, as soon as they don't, you don't. A car with a good design and crumple zones is easier to total, yes, but is really worth it in the end.

Security tab in the folder properties. Be mindful of the folders up the tree too- sometimes it doesn't "just work" in 10 lately. You can also just share them over the network, oddly you can just browse to a share on the same computer almost easier, and that adds the benefit of anyone with a login on the network having access as well- make sure they enable network discovery there.

In general, I think either would be fine. But since the connectors on these are actually generic connectors you find on a lot of stuff, you may need a straight through connection for some applications. I can think of something with the exact 6 ping plug that doesn't even carry 12v. I'm not sure I've ever seen one with crossing cables that's not like a 6 pin to 8 pin adapter or a splitter, but it's probably fine as long as each pin is right on both ends. There's just no reason to cross cables when it's the same number of pins on each side, so that's odd to me. Posting a link to one of the ones in question as well would be helpful. Either way, if in doubt, getting a straight through one wouldn't hurt.

I can fit 3 items on a screen at a time on 1080p, same at 1366x768. Why the fuck???? The only way it looks good is on my 43" 4k monitor, where I can fit multiple rows on screen. Did they literally design this for a fucking TV? The only way this trash heap is even tolerable to browser without feeling boxed in is zooming out, being that it's the one fucking site that doesn't rescale when you zoom to make it cancer no matter the rendering size.

they already thing they're fucking amazon and screw the small time/ used sellers as much as they can

well when you remove porn I mean there went half of that crowd too

Many of these workarounds mentioned on reddit don't work on the standard edition on windows, just nightly and developer- like the one to disabling signature enforcement ins about:config is ignored on some versions. Instead of manually loading them all through the "temporary load thing", and having it only work for one session, just open the console with ctrl+shift+j and run this async function set_addons_as_signed() { Components.utils.import("resource://gre/modules/addons/XPIDatabase.jsm"); Components.utils.import("resource://gre/modules/AddonManager.jsm"); let addons = await XPIDatabase.getAddonList(a => true); for (let addon of addons) { // The add-on might have vanished, we'll catch that on the next startup if (!addon._sourceBundle.exists()) continue; if( addon.signedState != AddonManager.SIGNEDSTATE_UNKNOWN ) continue; addon.signedState = AddonManager.SIGNEDSTATE_NOT_REQUIRED; AddonManagerPrivate.callAddonListeners("onPropertyChanged", addon.wrapper, ["signedState"]); await XPIDatabase.updateAddonDisabledState(addon); } XPIDatabase.saveChanges(); } set_addons_as_signed(); This will work without having to change anything or load them manually, and should only need to be run once every day, but seems to work on re-open. So yah pasting this is all you have to do, got my like thousand extensions working for me without having to restart or load anything.