P e r s e p h o n e

I'm pretty sure this normal. I still see ultra fine jaggies in Cyberpunk on 1440p ultrawide with everything turned up. What settings do you run on the games you've posted? 

I don't actually carry all these lenses, and of course I carry other gear not shown here.
 
Bodies: Canon R5, Canon T6
Point & Shoot: Nikon Coolpix L820, Panasonic DMC-TZ5
 
RF Lenses: 15-35mm F2.8, 24-70mm F2.8, 70-200mm F2.8, 100-500mm F4.5-7.1, 50mm F1.2, 85mm F1.2 DS, 100mm F2.8 MACRO
EF Lenses: EF-S 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 IS II, EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 III
 
Filters:
I typically use B+W MRC Master CPLs.
I have a few varying Tiffen mist filters that I don't use.
 
Tripod: Benro FBAT24CVX25 Bat Carbon Fiber Tripod Kit with VX25 Ball Head
 
Lights: Canon EL-1 (sold it), some random 50-watt panel lights, some random 20-watt mobile lights
 
Others: Savage Seamless Paper, Varying Reflectors 
 
Bag: Kelly Moore Luna, Kelly Moore Pilot 2.0, and Peak Design Everyday Sling v2 (3L & 6L)
 
I like bags that don't look like photography bags and remain fashionable.

No need to worry, you will have display output. Though without the drivers you might have some wonky resolution and/or refresh rate. Not to worry, it will be fixed when you install the drivers. 

LOL I'm uniquely qualified to answer this since I used to study at a university in that city.
 
1 & 3. When I was there, I used to uber around everywhere or bum rides when I needed to. I hate driving in that city because the roads are awkward. Many sudden right turn only lanes, heavy traffic across several lanes, etc. It's a pretty popular tourist destination so there's a lot of decent uber drivers, but there are some few that are unprofessional. Had a few uber drivers just cancel last minute for seemingly no reason or drive around in circles ignoring my messages. Renting a car isn't a bad idea, it's more cost effective if you plan on visiting a lot of out of the way areas, but Florida has some of the worse drivers in all the 50 states. That said, I've only ever witnessed one accident in the 4 years I've stayed there.
 
2. LOL that's a funny thing to hear as an American. Though I suppose I was just as odd when I was visiting The Netherlands. Most Walmarts are pretty consistent and won't be dramatically different. However, since you're going for touristy reasons, you'll want to make sure you go to Walmart Supercenter. If you go to a Walmart Neighborhood Market you might not see as much. That said since you're doing it for touristy reasons you might want to try out both. The Walmarts near Winterpark and around the University tend to be the best in my experience when I lived there. Who knows now though, it's been awhile.
 

Option 1:
For me when the problems are this alarming, I usually try fresh windows install. If you have the luxury of additional spare drives, you might be able to get away with running a test drive instead of nuking your current system. This will eliminate the probability that it's a software issue. If you do this make sure you run the latest updates to your OS and drivers. Keep a backup of your data of course. Unplug any drives that aren't related to your OS if you really don't want to accidentally nuke the wrong drive. 
 
Option 2:
If your system temps/power draw and so forth are reporting within reasonable ranges, it sounds like it might just be your monitor cables. Had the same thing happen to me a while ago. Try switching ports and cables. Do both if you're lazy and don't want to figure out which of the two are causing the problem. It's what I did.
 
Subsection 2a:
Your monitors themselves are the problem. Also had this happen to me, but I had my monitors run for like 15 years. 
 
Option 3:
Another issue might be an unstable change to your BIOS. Try clearing CMOS or updating to the latest version. 
 
Option 4:
Unstable/dirty power... We'll cross that line if we eliminate these other free/cheap fixes. 
 
There are probably more things we can try, but I'd need more information from you and probably to see what the results are from these suggestions. 

Yeah all im seeing here is just stairstepping nitpicks. No other way to solve it than to max out AA and pray for the best.

I love that your kid wants to see a wal-mart. Although to be fair to him, they really are ridiculous. All the walmarts in the area are similarly sized, you've got two in pretty easy driving distance.
 
For a family of 5, taking an uber or a taxi will probably be the most economical option as the (non-disney) shuttles are charged per-person. There are a few taxi stands at the airport (follow the signs) but your uber app will work too. Car rental pricing will depend on the days, so it might be worth a look - it will make your wal-mart excursion a little more convenient BUT the disney resorts do charge for parking, so maybe for a day or two? There is a car rental place on property, apparently there are complimentary shuttles from the hotels.

I have the non-Plus model so no RGB (useless battery drain) and for me its 6 weeks to two months to a charge which is great. 

Eh, idk I still buy Asus cuz they look poggers LOL. Plus I'm used to their BIOS and features. That said their BIOS time is sooooo slow and Gigabyte is like zero BIOS time.
 
The number of phases doesn't really matter as much as the quality of those phases. That said yes, the number of phases is fine. If you're really that concerned about it, you can look into whatever board that has the features you want and do a quick google search for a review on its VRM performance. Though, it's really not necessary. Virtually any of the Z series boards are more than enough. 
 
As for your confusion with VRM and cooling, I meant more specifically cooling the CPU die itself. The VRM simply changes the voltage supplied to the scale that the CPU needs while keeping it stable. Again, the quality of VRMs on anything but the cheapest boards these days are fine even for flagship CPUs. If you're spending at least $150 and up you'll probably be fine. 
 
As for PCH that stands for Platform Controller Hub it's a chip underneath the heatsink on the bottom right of most motherboards. They regulate any I/O tasks for the board that is not directly connected to the CPU. 

Typically, VA only wins out in terms of contrast ratio and IPS tends to win out in pixel response time, viewing angles, and color reproduction. I wouldn't say it's really bad, but I can't say I've had much experience with them either. I've only ever went for IPS, TN, and now QD-OLED. 
 
It seems to me that the Samsung one can be a bit smeary. Meaning that the pixels are slow to change. This is what pixel response time means and it's different from refresh rate. I understand you might want to save on the cash. Being your first build, you're probably going to have to buy a lot more. I will say that a monitor tends to last most people through a few upgrades and even new builds unless you really get into the quality of your display. So, it might be worth going for a nicer panel since they tend to last, and you'll have to carry on with that experience for longer. 
 
At the end of the day, any of these will be a big upgrade from your previous experience. So, if the costs are a big factor, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Plus, if you went with the nicer monitor, I doubt you'll upgrade any time soon as there isn't much of a difference for most people at this refresh rate and resolution. From there you'd really have to shell out quite a bit of money to see any more serious improvements.

Oh thank god! I can finally hide all my freaky orders..... /s
 
I suppose some of this makes sense from a pure cost perspective. At least from the view of Amazon. Though I doubt they'd toss the data. Which means they're only saving on the costs from serving to the customers. Which means they're still free to analyze it as they wish.... UGHHHH BIG TECH!

This so much.
 
You can really only worry about the statistical averages of each manufacturer. Puget did a study a while ago and found Samsung & Intel to be the best. That said we've recently had a little Samsung scandal with their drive firmware wearing out the drive alarmingly fast. Just updated my 980 Pros and found one of them did wear a lot more than the others and had older firmware. Though it hardly still makes a difference in the grand scheme of things.

It depends on what qualities you care about. Personally, I look for color accuracy and contrast. If you're a gamer who games on the TV, you might care about pixel response times and refresh rate.
 
As far as resolution and size 4k is all that you'll ever need and size is dependent on your space/desire. If you can I'd stick with QD-OLED displays as they look the best. The quantum dots give it better color accuracy than previous OLED displays and prevent burn in.
 
As far as software is concerned, IMHO they're all crap. Just make sure you get something that can handle your content and interface. Though if you ever run into this problem, you can always buy something like a firestick or any brand you desire. 
 
If you're as obsessive as me, I'd use something like rtings.com (or any other site with that much review data) to see specific details of areas that concern you and see how they perform.

The one thing I want to add is that I went from a Razer Viper Ultimate to a G502X, and I was very impressed with the battery life. It might not seem like it will matter since you can charge and use it, but I hate being tethered. Plus, I have ADHD and always forget to charge it ahead of time. The dock on the viper ultimate helped to remind me visually to charge it. With the G502 it just lasts so long. 

Oh thank god! I can finally hide all my freaky orders..... /s
 
I suppose some of this makes sense from a pure cost perspective. At least from the view of Amazon. Though I doubt they'd toss the data. Which means they're only saving on the costs from serving to the customers. Which means they're still free to analyze it as they wish.... UGHHHH BIG TECH!

Hey again! Looks like I'm helping you out quite a bit today LOL. 
 
If I were you, I'd use rtings.com to see more details about the features, you care about in each monitor. They really dive deep into the details you might be looking for. 
 
Since the refresh rate, resolution, and size are all the same I'd look into which ever has the best (lowest number) pixel response time to avoid any smearing. If you care about color accuracy or contrast ratio, I'd look into that too. Whatever has the highest contrast ratio and lowest delta e is what you want. 

What censorship? They just elect to not sell guns... So does my grocery store. Plenty of opportunities for you to buy guns. 
 
I like " forgotten weapons". How is he censored? I'm not subscribed, but his videos get suggested to  me. And I'm 100% not looking for guns, so the algorithm sure will suggest it to people who are interested.

Google is private company. Private companies have no obligation to treat all customers/users the same, outside of certain protected classes. Content about/including guns is not a protected class.

My gear really depends on what I'm doing, but this is pretty common when I'm going on a walk/hike and wanna take pictures of birds and other animals. I try to keep it as light as possible. I'll bring other stuff if needed, but I normally leave many things at home/hotel/car if I don't think I'm gonna need it for the outing.
 

 
Some canon bag(free, small, light)
Canon R5 with RF 100-400
Lots of spare batteries(it loves batteries)
Peak design strap
2 media cards(record on both just in case)
50mm lens if case I wanna take a non tele photo.

Eh, for max boosting on all cores at all times, sure.  But with a normal load a 240 will work too.  Don't pay too much mind to specific models or brands, so long as they are not 'known bad' ones that may be prone to leak.  There aren't very many of those, though.  A 280 might be more appropriate as they are significantly stronger than 240s but usually only cost a little more.  90% of any cooler's cooling ability is pure thermodynamics.  Most of them use the same pumps as each other anyway, so again, specific models don't really matter very much, outside of the size and thickness of the radiator and how fast the pump can go, though you really don't wanna be running most pumps at full speed anyway,
 
The 'best' 140mm AiO on the planet is still gonna get stomped by a cheap 240 and likewise on up the chain.
 
This 280 is actually surprisingly cheap for having good fixtures and relatively good thermal performance.  The radiator is thinner than some others, but with 280mm on the vertical surface it's still got a lot of volume:
ID-COOLING FROSTFLOW X 76.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (FROSTFLOW X 280) - PCPartPicker
It would cool a 13700kf quite well.
 
Though frankly, what are you using the 13700kf for anyway?  the 13500 is a lot cooler chip that will do 99% of tasks pretty much the same and costs way less.  It also has an iGPU.

Almost all brands are made by the same OEM Asatek. @Queen Chrysalis has the right idea 240mm is the sweet spot. It has the best compatibility, and most people don't need more than the thermal capacity a slim 240 has.
 
Though if you can go for a 280 or 360 and the price isn't that different, I'd say why not. That said, again, the 240mm is the most compatible and will be more reusable in the future. Beyond that, it mostly comes down to price and desire for aesthetics. 

For any first timer I always recommend looking into video reviews to see how easy it is to build in. For me though, I only ever care about how good the airflow is. Gamers Nexus has the best data set and graphs for that so far. So, you can check whichever case you like and see how it stacks up against the others. 
 
As far as your list goes:
 
I'd stay away from any of the NZXT's. Overpriced for your region and has the worse airflow. Any of the front open mesh cases like the MSI or Coolermaster ones are immediately better. Personally, I'd go with CoolerMaster since they have the better reputation, but I can't imagine the MSI one being bad since it has the open mesh at the front. I also like the little built-in RGB strip on the side if you're into that. 

You can find someone with an anecdotal horror story about every brand.
 
If you have a warranty, avail yourself of it.

A somewhat unconventional method, but if you extract your old storage drive, you can use cloning software to migrate the whole OS and all its data to the new drive. Assuming you have a SATA to USB cable (assuming it's a SATA drive), it should be relatively straightforward. I did this a few times using Samsung's cloning software, but it might not be worth the extra effort, depending on how much you have to do to extract your old drive.
 
For me, it was worth doing it because I spent a lot of time setting up my Linux terminal on windows, among other things. Honestly, IMHO it's easier just to download most of the easy bits like your browser and steam, then manually migrate data using a fast USB or external drive. Unless, of course, you just have a ton of software to install and lots of customizations. 

Okay sorry for the super late reply. I hope this isn't against the rules (haven't been on in a long time). 
 
#1 I happened to find your post because I was looking for outside opinions myself.
#2 I do have Logitech flow on the MX Master 2s with the K780. I also used Synergy with a G502 and a Mechanical Keyboard with Blue Switches.
#3 I also happen to code on a Mac and PC. 
 
In the past Synergy has been very temperamental and eventually I just decided to stop using it all together. It's been about 1.5 years now since I've used synergy. Other people report that their experience with Synergy 2 has been stable but I could never get it to work reliability for me. Logitech flow on the other hand pretty much always worked painlessly. The latency, for me anyway, is also much better on Flow. Copying over files on either depends on the size. Sometimes I get hangups if the files are quite large (>500MB). Otherwise, things tend to copy over quite well. 
 
Other Notes:
 
I also use the K780 specifically because it can hold both my iPhone and iPad Pro easily. The easy switch also allows me to switch between those devices and then quickly switch back to the PC/Mac Flow connection. 
 
Some Pic from CNET for illustration of the K780's uses.