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Falcon1986

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Everything posted by Falcon1986

  1. Read page 26-27 of your manual.
  2. @Winterlight These specific things will depend on your router's capabilities. Can't know without a make and model. Guest mode on WiFi normally isolates clients on the WLAN, so they can only can access the WAN. You should be able to customize the antenna specifics if you're router allows, again going back to the first point made previously.
  3. Exact models, please. Can you objectively measure the ambient temperature where these devices are located? Any wireless device will produce more heat when there is active data transmission. Most of them tend to also be passively cooled, so it takes some time (or a power cut) for them to cool down. If you have the ability to reduce the antenna power output without significantly reducing range, I'd try that and see if it works.
  4. This. As a standalone router, yes. But the whole point of a UDM is to use the Controller to manage multiple UniFi APs/switches through a single interface. Please note that the UniFi Controller cannot manage hardware from Ubiquiti's UISP line. Having a UniFi setup doesn't provide you with "magical" WiFi penetration through thick walls. It has its own shortcomings as any other WiFi antenna/AP. There are some brands like Ruckus that will provide a more superior WiFi experience, but that comes at a cost; you're entering proper enterprise-grade hardware after all. Here's my opinion on setting up WiFi in challenging building infrastructure: it's not a matter of what you have, but how you use what you have. Ethernet runs reduce need for WiFi (less interference because of less reliance), but allows you to drop APs in areas as required. Instead of trying to blast WiFi on maximum antenna power from a single AP in a house with multiple intervening walls/floors, increase the number of APs and reduce the antenna output power to just cover the area needed. You get better coverage and rely less on a degraded signal that is passing through several walls. A system like UniFi makes the above setup easy to manage. It's not the only one out there.
  5. While I will applaud the person who originally set this up for organization, they should have left a network map. There is no standard for network panels. If you don't know how things work, you essentially have to figure things out yourself. Are you living in an apartment? Are the other ethernet runs and coaxial cables to other rooms in your home or to other apartments? I suspect all the ethernet cables come into a patch panel or simple unmanaged switch. The sketchy and frayed looking ethernet cable connected to port 8 (why do people strip so much insulation!) is likely an uplink to an existing router somewhere, which is why you have distributed internet access to the building.
  6. Agreed. I have yet to also see any of my client devices stay connected to channel 13 even if they can see it. I think this is more of the problem. You'll never get around this kind of interference unless users configure their wireless routers or APs to only cover their apartment. But nobody does this; most don't know how to turn down antenna power output while others think that blasting at 100% is needed to get full coverage. IoT devices don't need a lot of bandwidth to work and will wait their turn in the queue if encountering wireless interference. But the compound effect of low bandwidth chatter from multiple IoT devices can result in more noticeable slowdowns. Maybe. A multi-AP system at optimum antenna output that only covers the area being serviced and avoids signal overlap with other local APs and signal from neighbours will likely work best. But keep in mind that it can contribute to more wireless interference on an already-congested frequency that can worsen the experience for you and your neighbours. How I deal with this is by reducing antenna power output to each AP on my UniFi network, placing all IoT devices on their own VLAN that is associated with a specific SSID, and locking IoT clients to APs within the immediate vicinity (rather than allowing them to jump as they please; they're not roaming clients anyway!).
  7. @m1lk3y - The injector that Lurick linked to is suggested and found to work by other Amazon users of the AP selected. You didn't need to look far for a PoE injector.
  8. I'm assuming you're in Australia. I'm not from there so hoping any Australians on the forum can give more specific advice. In my part of the world, ISPs supply their own modems/gateways for connection to DSL, coaxial and especially fiber networks. The latter two require specific credentials and setup for authorized use on the network, which only the ISP has access to. Therefore, we can't use one ISP's device on another network. However, my limited understanding of what happens in Australia is that you have access to a large public network that allows you to subscribe to any ISP you like. (Is this similar to what's in the UK, @Alex Atkin UK?). If you got the NF-18 through Tangerine, then they likely have customized the login credentials, so you'll have to retrieve it from them. You'll have to call them when asking to disconnect your service anyway.
  9. Pre-built third-party firewall appliances have the advantage of being more power-efficient. However, upgrade paths might be limited. On the other hand, repurposing a SFF PC allows you to upgrade more but you might sacrifice on power efficiency. In both cases, if you have enough CPU horsepower, you can run more than just pfSense/OPNSense on it. While I don’t doubt that Netgate hardware perform well for their intended segment, you will end up paying more. If I were getting Netgate appliances, I’d more likely use them to deploy at customer sites because someone else is paying for it, it’s only going to be used as a firewall and one can get support directly from Netgate. Check out ServeTheHome for firewall appliance reviews. There’s more than Protectli out there and you can find hardware with better specifications to do the additional tasks you want to do.
  10. @Sparseic What is the ethernet cable connected to upstream? Gateway, modem, router, switch? What are the makes/models of these hardware? Try restarting the router/switch. Please show us the CMD output for ipconfig /all. Obfuscate the IPv6 information. Try disabling IPv6 under the NIC’s properties.
  11. @HeyImMax Disable the metered connection on your network interface. Ensure that your network interface is set to obtain LAN IP address information automatically. Who is your ISP and what type of internet connection do you have? Other than phones, are there any other devices on your network that are experiencing a similar problem? Please respond to what was previously asked. That includes trying a different ethernet cable.
  12. Why TFTP? Bricked router? I recall using TFTP to unbrick my WRT54G a long time ago. There was a small window of opportunity during power-on for it to work.
  13. So your phone also momentarily disconnected? Are you on some form of mobile broadband? E.g. 4G/LTE or 5G?
  14. Two windows? Show us the analyses, please. This isn’t as important as what’s on your AiMesh page. Anyway, using 5GHz for backhaul at long distances while having to penetrate different materials, is going to be challenging. 2.4GHz might work better, but then you sacrifice bandwidth and are subject to more interference from other sources of 2.4GHz signals. If 5GHz is being used as backhaul, then 2.4GHz is used for client-AP communication. This is the point that could receive WiFi interference if your environment has a lot of other 2.4GHz broadcasts.
  15. Makes/models of all networking hardware you have connected. A flow diagram might help as well. Inspect the ethernet cable for any visible defects such as exposed twisted pairs, sharp bends, etc. Try another known-working ethernet cable. Why do you have metered connection activated? Can you try disabling it?
  16. See this review article on the RT-AC66U B1. Keep in mind that this was written a few years ago when wireless-AC was still in draft phase. The conclusion actually mentions this router not being a significant upgrade over your N66U, especially with the unstable firmware features at that time. Furthermore, Merlin discontinued support for both of these routers a while ago, but you can probably still use v380.70. What do you find the RT-N66U lacking to justify upgrading at this time? If the performance has been good for what you need it to do, I wouldn’t jump to upgrade. While the RT-N66U is a couple generations old for WiFi, it’s not too bad to get the basics done.
  17. You can't attach a PoE injector to any switch and expect it to be powered. You need at least a switch with PoE input. Furthermore, you need to use the correct type of PoE to ensure you don't damage any electronics and that it can satisfy the power demand at the other end. The USW-Flex-Mini supports PoE/PoE+ (44—57V DC, 0.05—0.04A) input to power the switch only. Your other ethernet-connected devices won't be powered. It's not really an outdoor switch either. However, the USW-Flex is outdoor rated, can be powered by PoE++ and can power ethernet-connected devices at PoE+ (max 46W). Ensure that your client devices are compatible with this power output.
  18. Not necessarily a router. Perhaps a router running in AP mode, so you can use the ethernet ports like a switch and still have WiFi. The alternative is to use a dedicated wireless access point, but many don't have switch ports unless you search for them specifically (e.g. Ubiquiti In-Wall APs). To a switch or directly into a functional wall ethernet port. In what way? That will depend on what the cause is. If you run your own router in it's default mode, it will introduce double NAT which might make it difficult for devices not connected to that router to interact with the Hue Bridge.
  19. I understand that. All ports on EdgeRouters can be configured independently. I'd put LAN and WLAN on the switch and set up the free port on the ER-4 for the server. Also, did you visit the Ubiquiti link?
  20. That screenshot shows that you're not connected to the 5GHz broadcast. Can you show us the 2.4GHz analysis? Also, you never have is the WiFi settings being used on your current router.
  21. Is "boosted" the correct term or are you trying to widen wireless coverage? What make/model of router so you have now? You do realize you can give an AP the exact same SSID and security credentials as your primary wireless router and clients will not be able to tell the difference? This is what preceded WDS, mesh and wireless extenders. Best practice is to ensure that the broadcast channel is not overlapping with other signals and the coverage isn't too close to the primary signal, i.e on the periphery.
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