Falcon1986

Just to clarify and to ensure you understand what was said and don't have unrealistic expectations: Properly certified Cat6A ethernet cable can achieve 10Gbps up to 100m if you have 10Gbps NICs at both ends and there is no failure of cable integrity after you lay it down. It should run fine at 1Gbps if you only have 1Gbps network speeds. If your network speeds will never go beyond 1Gbps or you have no multi-gig NICs, certified Cat5E will be just fine. BTW, Cat5E can achieve 10Gbps at short lengths of less than 10m (again, if you have the NICs to support it), but this is outside of their certified specification. Finally, any wired connection (whether it's via ethernet, fiber, coax) will always be more reliable and consistent in speeds than any WiFi solution. So if you have the opportunity to run ethernet, you should. If you absolutely can not, then you'll have to settle for something else that might not be as reliable and consistent in speeds.

On wired or wireless? Make and model of router? How far is router from PC?

Test with it disabled to see if that changes anything. This might be a problem further upstream, i.e. between the ISP device and your first AC66U B1. Check the integrity of the ethernet cable, ensuring it is at least Cat5e or better; no exposed twisted pairs, no sharp bends, etc.

Can you set it to CTF+FA? Sorry if I might have missed it, but are you using wireless or wired backhaul for AiMesh?

See your other thread. Each WAN connection will need to be set to dynamic, unless if you pay for a static IP from your ISP. Don't know. They're both TP-Link products. See the emulated control panel here. I'd suggest you let the device closest to the edge of your network do the traffic management. However, if you predominantly want the Decos full features, then you might as well run the QoS here. This multi-WAN router doesn't care, as long as a signal is coming to each of its WAN ethernet ports. BTW, routers based on OpenWRT are another good alternative to router OSes that handle multi-WAN (load balance and failover) well. Was just reminded about the Flint 2 (GL-MT6000) from GL-inet.

Yes, you can. If you do this, I'd recommend you assign the primary Deco unit a static LAN IP address within the multi-WAN router's client list, so you don't get disconnections during DHCP IP renewals. Do some reading.

There's your problem. Powerline is very unreliable and inconsistent. Its performance is significantly affected by several factors. If the wiring is bad, on a different circuit breaker at either end, is plugged in to a line filter/conditioner or even a surge protector, or you have high-draw appliances on the same shared circuit (e.g. air conditioning, fridge, freezer, microwave, etc.), you'll get bad performance. Usually, a reboot and re-pairing of the modules temporarily fixes the problem since this forces the units to operate on a different frequency with less signal noise. However, all signal noise can't be eliminated. While it has its drawbacks and should be placed as the very last resort for "wired" home network connectivity, some people can live with the occasional reboots here and there. I'd make sure to check for those sources of interference and either turn them off completely or move them to another circuit. Test the connection again until you've eliminated as many things as possible before going with a WiFi replacement.

How are these 2 units linked? LAN to LAN or LAN to WAN? Also, is the secondary unit also in the "router" operational mode? Is there anywhere in the router's interface that allows you to toggle on/off NAT hardware acceleration? Anything related to Level 1 CTF or Level 2 CTF + Flow Accelerator? You might need the latter activated on gigabit connections, although I don't believe the AC66U can route at over 850Mbps WAN-to-LAN or LAN-to-LAN in real world scenarios.

No one uses Task Manager to measure internet speeds. @Needfuldoer already explained why.

If you're asking this question, I wonder if you understand how to use the UDM-Pro and what it is intended for. Regular everyday consumers do not need a UDM-Pro to get good routing, firewall and WiFi features. Understandably, the UDM-Pro does not have an AP built in. You have to add this yourself. And since you can run the UniFi Controller on the UDM-Pro, UniFi APs would be the next best decision. There is no restriction on using an AP from another brand or even running a wireless router in AP mode (is this what you are trying to do?), but UniFi has no ability to control these APs from it's central control interface. You'll have to log in and configure them separately. If you're doing this, though, it's quite a waste of an investment in the UniFi ecosystem, unless you have specific needs from the firewall aspect of the UDM-Pro specifically. But then again, a dedicated firewall appliance running pfSense or OPNsense is a smarter choice over a UDM-Pro. If you fell for the "gaming router" advertising, I'm sorry. The only thing "gaming" about these routers is that they implement a traffic management optimizing protocol in the background. Most good routers with support for QoS or any of the more advanced protocols can do the same thing without being called "gaming". The UDM-Pro should already have Smart Queue Management that you can activate and give you the same kind of optimization. You only need to run this on the router, though. Your AP (if it's a wireless router running in AP mode) should have its firewall and traffic management features disabled.

If your speed tests at speedtest.net and fast.com are showing close to what you're paying for (100Mbps/20Mbps down/up), then the speeds you're seeing in Epic are likely due to a limitation on their server(s) themselves, or at any point on the route between you and their server(s). Both of these would be out of your control.

Has positive reviews on Amazon. Have never used it, unfortunately. But I don't doubt that Omada is maturing.

It has already been established that the Decos have absolutely no ability to handle multiple WAN connections. So if the TP-Link dual-WAN router is within your price range and accessible to you, then go with that.

Good to know. That’s for you to figure out. We all don’t have access to the same markets. You have to state your limitations up front if you want better recommendations. Also, while the Netgate 1100 might have its issues, that’s not to say that that their other products are “crappy”. They’re the pfSense people after all. See here. Main difference is that the E4 utilizes fast ethernet (10/100Mbps) ports, whereas the M4 has gigabit. Otherwise, the WiFi features seem the same. Manufacturers who make a lot of affordable consumer-grade network hardware like TP-Link will quickly come out with something new quite soon leaving the last thing a bit closer to EOL. Doesn’t mean that the old thing won’t work; it just won’t receive any more firmware updates or support. Is that a big deal? I don’t think so. Major issues are generally patched within a product’s life cycle after which nothing more can be done. If issues still persist, consumers will complain or start a Reddit thread to rant and probably figure out a likely fix. When it comes to “business grade” or enterprise hardware, you don’t see this quick EOL or turnover of hardware. Businesses wouldn’t invest in a product that won’t have support within a year. So if you’re doing this on a budget with consumer-grade hardware, then don’t expect enterprise-grade longevity when it comes to support. Maximize the hardware features with the budget you have and leave it like that. If your budget improves later on, then you can look at upgrading where necessary.

You should read the Deco documentation. It goes through different configurations and explains what features are lost/retained by converting to AP mode from router mode. They definitely do. It's up to your hardware/NICs to be supported by the relevant firewall OS and to have at least 3 assignable ethernet ports (1 for each WAN, 1 to output to a switch). I've used both the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X and USG and they both support dual-WAN with the ability to load balance or failover. The UDM-Pro/SE should be able to manage these as well (more at the managed switch level) but I wouldn't invest in one just for that if you're not all in with UniFi hardware. TP-Link and D-Link have "VPN routers" that have dual-WAN support as well, but they might cost slightly more than the ER-X or USG. They offer multi-gig ports. While I don't think pfSense will have any issue running on a Core 2 Duo, the cost to power that system 24/7 might negate any cost savings that you planned on building your own. Firewall appliance hardware exist to bring a balance between performance and power consumption. The Netgate 1100 runs pfSense and shouldn't consume as much power.

As in you pay for cellular 5G internet service or you are using the 5GHz band on your wireless router? Please clarify your type of internet connection and the speeds you're paying for. What are the makes/models of your network equipment? How far away is your PC from the wireless source when you use WiFi? And when you use ethernet? Does any other devices using the same network experience a similar problem?

I know. There's a separate AP.

If the DG3450 allows you to, give each band a different SSID so that you know which band you’re connecting to, then preferentially connect to the 5GHz signal. The 2.4GHz frequency in your area is quite busy and your signal is already overlapping with your neighbours’. If they are simultaneously active on their WiFi, it will slow down yours and theirs. If you have no legacy devices that would use 802.11b/g, set the 2.4GHz radio mode to 802.11n with a channel of 5 or 6 and width of 20MHz. Wide channels on 2.4GHz will cause too much overlap. Set the 5GHz radio mode to 802.11ac or 802.11n/ac with a channel width of 20/40MHz. Even though you have a neighbour’s signal on channel 44, the signal strength is low enough to not cause an issue. If you have the ability to change the WiFi security/encryption, use something like WPA/WPA2 with AES. After doing the above, have your clients forget the old network(s) and reconnect, preferably to the 5GHz SSID. Anything on 2.4GHz is expected to encounter slowdowns due to the interference going on. However, if these clients are low-bandwidth IoT clients, for example, it doesn’t matter.

@matyivagyok Show us a screenshot of the AP's LAN settings. I'm assuming that, since you configured your personal router to AP mode, you now have one network and all devices are under the same IP subnet. Which DNS are you using on the ONT? What is your AP's make/model?

At the bottom of the Window, click '5GHz'. Your screenshot has 2.4GHz channels. You've likely given both signals the same SSID.

You also need to run the scan for the 5GHz band.

And the wireless survey?

First of all, 10-port switches are very rare unicorns. You’re looking at 16 ports if not 8. Secondly, 8-port multi-gig switches are going to be much less expensive than 16-port alternatives. If you don’t need all 16 ports to be 2.5/10GbE, then specify the bare minimum, because prices go up quite rapidly. Thirdly, if you don’t want the managed version of the GS110EMX, look into the GS110MX, or try the Zyxel XGS1210-12. You don’t have to be afraid of managed switches; most non-enterprise models operate like any unmanaged switch out of the box, but afford additional features if you log in to their management interface.

See if this list has anything within your budget.

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing with the existing hardware? You never stated this. What are you hoping having your own hardware will do? Sorry, just read the other post. Why does it take the ISP to replace the device to get it working again? This sounds like an ISP side problem, which plugging your own gateway in might not solve the problem. Who is your ISP? Have you even tried calling them to find out what they recommend? We can't predict what your ISP's practices are. In places like the USA where laws allow coaxial/cable users to replace the ISP-provided cable modems, that isn't necessarily the case in other parts of the world. Fiber tends to be a special scenario. Some gateways will allow you to at least turn off router/firewall functions through a "bridge" or "passthrough" mode. You can then attach your own router/firewall to the gateway and get some degree of control there. In my situation, my fiber ISP does not allow hardware replacement nor do they have gateway devices that have passthrough mode. The customer network is all CG-NAT. So you either settle or run another layer of NAT with your own router and recognize the consequences of doing that.