Falcon1986
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Posts posted by Falcon1986
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17 hours ago, Avocheeseado said:
Any ideas on what might be causing these slower speeds? Is it just the limits of powerline or the BT mesh system?
What would be very helpful is a network diagram with make/model labels for all relevant hardware and how they're interconnected.
PL can be blamed for a lot of speed and latency issues. It's one piece of network technology that is plagued with problems. If you're using them, I assume you would have accepted these limitations.
17 hours ago, Avocheeseado said:However, when I connect to our BT Whole Home Wifi mesh network, even though it's connected to the router via Cat 5e ethernet, I'm only getting around 90mbps.
So you have 2 routers connected to each other? This is the setup that your ISP put in your home?
Are these speed tests performed while connecting over WiFi? How far are you from the mesh node? My memory of house construction in the UK is that even internal walls are made of thick, solid brick. If the WiFi going through walls/floors when you're doing these speed tests?
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3 hours ago, Gat Pelsinger said:
On speedtest.net, I get a download speed of 100 Mb/s (megabits)...
Are these the speeds that you're paying your ISP for? What is the type of internet connection?
3 hours ago, Gat Pelsinger said:I am using ethernet but that shouldn't make much difference, it should also work on Wi-Fi.
WiFi speeds are much more variable than ethernet. If you're in 2.4GHz from the WiFi 4/5 generation, for example, you're unlikely to ever reach 100Mbps in real-world scenarios.
Additionally, the rate at which device A is able to send data to device B on the LAN is dependent on the speed of CPU/storage hardware on each device.
Post a network diagram sketch, highlighting the exact make/models of all network devices and how they're connected.
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5 hours ago, DARBADARBZ said:
I moved into an apartment where "No personal routers are allowed." I think this is dumb and also the internet in unsecured and very slow.
What do they provide? Wireless? Ethernet?
What are you calling slow? Wireless? Ethernet?
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7 hours ago, Fat Cat11997 said:
For some reason whenever i restart my pc or disconnect and then recconnect to my internet connection whether if its the 5ghz or 2.4ghz connection my ping is fine, but after playing for a little my ping starts to poop its pants again, and disconnecting and then recconnecting to the network again seems to fix it. What is going on?
Most common cause is wireless interference.
Interference can be due to overlap with your neighbours' WiFi broadcasts or other appliances that use the same bands as WiFi (e.g. cordless phones, Bluetooth, etc.). You can detect the former with a WiFi Analyzer tool.
When you reboot the wireless router, you force it to scan the spectrum for the best available channel (provided the antenna channel selection is to 'auto'). That is a temporary fix because if the spectrum in your area is already heavily congested, it's only a matter of time before a neighbour's broadcast decides to overlap with yours again.
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6 hours ago, Fat Cat11997 said:
What is the cause for this...
You're on WiFi. There's always latency on WiFi.
6 hours ago, Fat Cat11997 said:...and how can i fix this?
Ethernet. Plug in directly.
- Needfuldoer and Donut417
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19 hours ago, msponer said:
However, the connection to my pc isnt direct, it goes from the repeator>ethernet extension block>pc. So it uses two cables instead of one.
As in the ethernet link to the PC goes through an ethernet coupler?
What type of ethernet cables are you using?
19 hours ago, msponer said:Is this due to the repeater?
A make/model would be very helpful.
- Needfuldoer and Lurick
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1 hour ago, CatXice said:
So if am right i will need the about username the @plusdsl.net one and what ever this password is for the Tp link router to be able to make an internet connection?
This is a very specific problem that the ISP's technical support (higher level of technical knowledge) should be able to help you with. Seeing as there may be very few people on this forum who can help (I'll call out @Alex Atkin UK since he's familiar with UK ISP stuff), I'd suggest you ask in the Plusnet Community forum. At this point, since you're using your own hardware, you've isolated yourself to being "your own support".
May I ask why you chose to replace the ISP's gateway with the TD-W9960? Comparing the specifications of it to the Plusnet Hub One, I'd be interested in knowing what you upgraded.
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17 minutes ago, Grinch_ said:
So I need to contact my ISP to allow this ONU?
Definitely!
Unless your ISP does not care about who connects to their fiber network, they usually have to authorize access by allowing not just the right credentials, but the right hardware signature.
They should also be helpful in getting you set up faster than what we are "guessing" that you need to do.
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10 hours ago, Grinch_ said:
So I'm guessing I'm setting up this vsol one wrongly?
I don't think you're supposed to edit anything on the TR069 connection profile. That's the ISP's "back door" into your ONT. IP acquisition should be set to DHCP on this connection.
Look for another connection profile like "Internet". You should be able to use PPPoE credentials there.
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On 5/12/2014 at 8:11 AM, M00 said:
Unplugging 1 end of the powerline didn't seem to fix anything but I just tried unplugging both at the same time and plugging back in and it seems to be temporarily fixed. However, this isn't really a reasonable fix for my situation. Where I have to have one end of the powerline connections is in an extremely unaccesible spot behind some heavy furniture. I can't really be unplugging it a couple of times a week. There must be a fix to this.
That's the problem with Powerline. The quality of the link between the 2 adapters can change dramatically when appliances on the same circuit turn on/off. Power-cycling each adapter forces them to re-sync, but that's only temporary.
In my opinion, Powerline should have been retired a long time ago. Because of its frequent link problems, it should only be used in peripheral applications where clients don't need much bandwidth or uptime.
You're stuck with doing what you're doing now unless you link the modem to router with ethernet.
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11 hours ago, jre84 said:
out of 1 billion computer users. and one million linus members no one has setup wifi 6e? nothing on google
This is what happens when you're an early adopter. You'll have to deal with all of the incompatibilities and quirks until more people start using the technology.
11 hours ago, jre84 said:co pilot shows this clearly stating people are dishonest
The 6 GHz frequency band is available for WiFi6E and WiFi7 access points in various regions. To activate the 6 GHz band, you typically need to navigate to your network settings and enable it manually. The specific steps can vary depending on your device and network setup. For a detailed guide and a list of supported countries, you can refer to the official help centers of your network device’s brand12. Remember, the availability of the 6 GHz band also depends on local regulations and the compatibility of your network devices.
Not sure what is "dishonest".
Here is what I think you're not fully understanding. While your XB8 has a 6GHz antenna to broadcast WiFi to WiFi 6E clients, access won't necessarily be available all of the time, especially when you realize that the wider you go on channel width on 6GHz (and even on 5GHz), you're bound to overlap with DFS channels. 6GHz is not exactly an "unoccupied" band; like 5GHz, it's utilized by "incumbent services" like microwave, satellite, mobile, astronomy, etc. If any of these services are being heavily used in your area, they can interfere with your signal.
On 3/31/2024 at 8:58 PM, jre84 said:I just bought a BE200 and after plugging it in and installing drivers 6e works it picks up the 6ghz channel. as for my gaming laptop and zenbook they are unable to pick up 6ghz signal
OK. So you seem to be upgrading all of the WiFi adapters but not taking one other thing into consideration.
While adapter upgrades [and relevant driver upgrades] from one generation to the other will generally work for most people, you haven't really upgraded the physical antennae. In the majority of cases, this is not relevant, but keep in mind that the antennae that came with your laptops were tuned for the adapters that were placed in them from the factory. Upgrading the adapter, especially in a laptop that isn't too old, should still work, but it likely won't work as well compared to devices that came with WiFi 6E/7 directly from the manufacturer; e.g. your phone.
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On 3/21/2024 at 12:54 PM, karmic tr said:
my issue is why im confused why sometimes my ping is super low and i can have fun gaming then it goes back to this 60 ping garbage im located in jamaica the games i play are valorant and fortnite
Who is your ISP? Flow, Digicel, Starlink?
Are you running these tests over WiFi, ethernet, through any other medium (e.g. Powerline, WiFi extenders, etc)?
Is anything else running in the background (either locally or on the network) that might be consuming bandwidth at the same time?
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2 hours ago, jre84 said:
excellent reception
So the PC(s) with the WiFi 6E adapters can see the 6GHz but cannot connect to the network?
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2 hours ago, Jutsch80 said:
When I try setting up QoS in the Mercusys software is wants accurate internet speeds, otherwise QoS wouldn't work reliably. Is there maybe another method I overlooked? It would be optimal to be able to guarantee around 10Mbit/s to my AndroidTV box to make sure at least HD streaming works whenever another device in the network starts a download of any kind.
Without reliable speeds, this will be difficult to do. If QoS is the only setting available for traffic shaping, then you might have to use the slowest speeds and live with that.
If your router supported CoDel or fq_codel, you would get the dynamic adjustment that you want.
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7 minutes ago, jre84 said:
im about 10 feet from the XB8 I have the bands seperated as before, and i just tried changing the name and then adding a network to connect to manually, still nothing. thanks once again for your help
And what did WiFi Analyzer show?
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1 hour ago, jre84 said:
the 6ghz band is disconnected and not showing after a restart of windows. all i did was reboot and now its not showing with identical settings. any ideas>?
- How far are you from the XB8 when this happens?
- Do you have a separate SSID for the 6GHz band? Or does the XB8 give all bands the same SSID?
- Assess the strength of the 6GHz signal from the same computer using WiFi Analyzer. Post a screenshot.
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1 hour ago, jre84 said:
seems clear, I was getting 6e with my cell and wanted it with my laptop? I don't know how that can be misinterpreted. if you think im talking about the rax43 in that question? why? as i stated the rax43 doesn't do more than 1 gig
Well, we never knew an XB8 existed until here. We don't all use Shaw to know this. Your 6GHz signal is coming from the XB8, not the RAX43.
Phones tend to perform better with WiFi than computers for several reasons. But you should realize that 6GHz has an even shorter range than 5GHz. If an imaginary straight line drawn between your device and the XB8 encounters walls/floors with distance, then a 6GHz signal will be significantly attenuated by the time it reaches you.
1 hour ago, jre84 said:I am now curious if I can wirelessly tether or use my rax43 as a extender, say wirelessly connecct to the xb8 and transmit a faster speed that way, bah wish i knew more about wifi.
Being of 2 different brands, they're unlikely to be able to communicate in this manner. Even if they did, it would be at the expense of one band and, at that point, you're sacrificing speed and latency for coverage.
A better way to do this would be to convert the RAX43 to AP mode and connect it to the XB8 via an ethernet uplink. You get a reliable wired backhaul that should always be at 1Gbps and can fully utilize all bands and ports on the RAX43.
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7 hours ago, Indian pc builder said:
I have parental controls in the deco I need to keep, what if I put one of the routers into bridge mode? That way it’ll be good right?(can the Multi wan router be put into bridge mode)
If the TP-Link multi-WAN router has such a mode, that would be a silly mode to have. You'd essentially be turning it into a switch, unless it has the ability to keep all of it's advanced features (such as load balancing).
These multi-WAN routers are purpose-built for small business applications that have specific needs. There's no need to have "alternate modes".
But why don't you examine the router's interface yourself? I'm assuming you have one of TP-Link's multi-WAN routers.
7 hours ago, Indian pc builder said:I have parental controls in the deco I need to keep, what if I put one of the routers into bridge mode?
This is where marrying home user functions and business functions don't always go hand in hand.
Deco is meant for home use. So no surprise that it comes with parental controls that can be managed in the app. Multi-WAN routers are intended for business or advanced home setups where you're likely to have other ways of content filtering and restrictions. In this specific situation, I couldn't find "parental controls" in the TP-Link emulator for the ER605.
If you need both dual-WAN and parental controls with what you have now, then I guess that justifies multiple layers of NAT. I suggest you try the configuration and see if there are any issues to be concerned about at all.
What I think you need here is a multi-WAN mesh home WiFi system. Unfortunately, I don't think TP-Link carries this kind of system. Even the new Archer BE800 with its dual 10Gb LAN/WAN ports will only use 1 for WAN. You'll more likely see these kind of features with Asus/AiMesh and Synology hardware.
7 hours ago, Indian pc builder said:also how do you find this stuff on YouTube? I just bet directed into a void of useless videos
I subscribe to that channel and recalled seeing that video.
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8 hours ago, jre84 said:
XB8=1500mb/s wifi 6E
RAX43=900mb/s wifi 6
This is where stating pertinent information from the start could have saved a lot of misinterpretation.
8 hours ago, jre84 said:I cant get 1500mbs with my netgear rax43 route
Never will be. All of the ethernet ports can only go at a maximum rate of 1Gbps.
Higher aggregate/cumulative speeds of the WLAN are possible, but most home users don't care about it.
9 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:Definitely curious how you got past the limitation of the router only having a Gigabit WAN port.
Shaw/XB8 (WiFi 6E, tri-band) ---> 1GbE ---> RAX43 (WiFi 6, dual-band)
Tests seem to have been done over WiFi 6E to the XB8 resulting in that screenshot
@jre84 - Hopefully, you've configured the RAX43 in AP mode if you're concerned about double-NAT and port forwarding.
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5 hours ago, jre84 said:
yesterday I managed to get 1550mb/s but after using it it reverted to 950mb/s.
As in the PHY speed or local speed tests?
5 hours ago, jre84 said:1) 6ghz not showing with any of my cards mt7922 and ax210 but showing 6e with my samsung s21 ultra
Not sure what your S21 Ultra was seeing especially given what @Lurick pointed out about your router's specifications.
5 hours ago, jre84 said:2) have no clue how to get over 1gig with my nighthawk rax43 router might return it because it has just 1gig wan port maybe aggregation?? would help
Port aggregation has to be supported on both the router and the modem for that to work.
When it comes to multi-gig internet connections, you have to make sure that your ports can exceed the speeds you'll be paying for. So, in your situation, you're looking at 2.5Gbps or better. This takes into consideration various overheads that can drop the speed and it also should provide you with hardware that can handle WAN-to-LAN or LAN-to-WAN speeds that high.
Having gigabit ports doesn't necessarily mean that the hardware can perform transfers at gigabit speeds. The CPU/chipset/cooling must be up to the task.
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9 hours ago, Indian pc builder said:
the way load balancing works, if i have WAN's, but one provides 300mbps and one does 150, will all my devices still get 300? or will some get 150
Depends on how load balancing is set up in your router.
You should learn how load balancing works, especially as it applies to your multi-WAN router.
9 hours ago, Indian pc builder said:150 no a problem for things like my printer and other things like the smart tv but, i'd want 300 on my laptop...
Watch the section of same video as it applies to policy routing. You can create groups of devices then assign those groups to a particular WAN.
9 hours ago, Indian pc builder said:also if i have a tplink deco mesh set up in router mode and a load balancing router on the layer above it as a dual NAT situation, will it affect the speeds and latencies?
Theoretically, if your internet speeds are slower than the maximum that the Deco can handle, speeds should be minimally affected. At higher internet connection speeds, you might hit a limit since anything plugged in to that WAN port will have to negotiate at least 2 firewalls. Placing a "router" in bridge/passthrough mode or AP mode, releases CPU resources to achieve higher speeds doing other tasks.
Where multiple layers of NAT come in to play is intermittent interruptions from internal IP renewals (DHCP), potential IP conflicts if both networks are within the same subnet, and firewall-related issues (routing from the WAN, through the first network and then the second, etc.).
Unless you have a specific reason to run mesh units in their default mode behind a dual-WAN router, I'd run them in AP mode. I don't think Deco and Omada integrate with each other at this time even if they're both from TP-Link. Using them together will come with compromises.
9 hours ago, Indian pc builder said:Also again will it be that the speed might become an issue of the load balancing router assign the deco to the slower wan?
Again, watch the video.
Technically, if you configure policy routing properly, the chosen WAN should only depend on the client, not the AP through which the client connects. Explore the Omada policy routing interface.
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1 hour ago, Super Sweet said:
What could I do to try and fix this puzzling issue?
- Clean off the camera lenses with one of those fine microfiber cloths. No need to use any harsh chemicals.
- Remove any lens protectors if you have one installed.
- Update your phone's ROM to the latest version.
- Delete the cache for the camera app, restart the phone and try using the camera again.
- You might have a broken AF system. Did you drop your phone prior to noticing this problem? If you can still return the phone for replacement or repair, try that. Otherwise, some people have reported tapping on the rear of the phone below the camera while the app is open gets AF to work. Obviously, this is just a temporary fix.
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1 hour ago, Valentin17 said:
I am connecting from work to my home network. My laptop has installed ProtonVPN and OpenVPN client.
If you simply want to access your home network from work, just use OpenVPN.
Unlike NordVPN, I don't think ProtonVPN has any "mesh" feature to activate.
How do I saturate my network?
in Networking
Posted
This highlights that you should find out from the person who pays.
ISPs are known to allow for higher-than-normal "burst" speeds when their network isn't congested. Furthermore, if your ISP has speed test servers that are part of speedtest.net, speeds can seem higher than what you're paying for. You might just be on a 48-50Mbps internet connection, that occasionally bursts to 100Mbps.
What are your speeds at fast.com, openspeedtest.com and waveform?
I'd have to disagree.
Different generations of WiFi are able to achieve different speeds. Most of us who used 802.11b/g hardware will know. Furthermore, most people's WiFi setups are sub-optimally set up.
I'm not arguing with that.
It was a simple question. You'd be surprised at how many people reveal their setups until the 10th reply in and that's where we discover something problematic.
Unfortunately, we're not mind readers here. A fast and easy solution doesn't fit everyone. If you're patient enough and can constructively participate in the conversation, someone will help you find a solution.