Falcon1986

As in the ethernet link to the PC goes through an ethernet coupler? What type of ethernet cables are you using? A make/model would be very helpful.

This is a very specific problem that the ISP's technical support (higher level of technical knowledge) should be able to help you with. Seeing as there may be very few people on this forum who can help (I'll call out @Alex Atkin UK since he's familiar with UK ISP stuff), I'd suggest you ask in the Plusnet Community forum. At this point, since you're using your own hardware, you've isolated yourself to being "your own support". May I ask why you chose to replace the ISP's gateway with the TD-W9960? Comparing the specifications of it to the Plusnet Hub One, I'd be interested in knowing what you upgraded.

Definitely! Unless your ISP does not care about who connects to their fiber network, they usually have to authorize access by allowing not just the right credentials, but the right hardware signature. They should also be helpful in getting you set up faster than what we are "guessing" that you need to do.

I don't think you're supposed to edit anything on the TR069 connection profile. That's the ISP's "back door" into your ONT. IP acquisition should be set to DHCP on this connection. Look for another connection profile like "Internet". You should be able to use PPPoE credentials there.

That's the problem with Powerline. The quality of the link between the 2 adapters can change dramatically when appliances on the same circuit turn on/off. Power-cycling each adapter forces them to re-sync, but that's only temporary. In my opinion, Powerline should have been retired a long time ago. Because of its frequent link problems, it should only be used in peripheral applications where clients don't need much bandwidth or uptime. You're stuck with doing what you're doing now unless you link the modem to router with ethernet.

This is what happens when you're an early adopter. You'll have to deal with all of the incompatibilities and quirks until more people start using the technology. Not sure what is "dishonest". Here is what I think you're not fully understanding. While your XB8 has a 6GHz antenna to broadcast WiFi to WiFi 6E clients, access won't necessarily be available all of the time, especially when you realize that the wider you go on channel width on 6GHz (and even on 5GHz), you're bound to overlap with DFS channels. 6GHz is not exactly an "unoccupied" band; like 5GHz, it's utilized by "incumbent services" like microwave, satellite, mobile, astronomy, etc. If any of these services are being heavily used in your area, they can interfere with your signal. OK. So you seem to be upgrading all of the WiFi adapters but not taking one other thing into consideration. While adapter upgrades [and relevant driver upgrades] from one generation to the other will generally work for most people, you haven't really upgraded the physical antennae. In the majority of cases, this is not relevant, but keep in mind that the antennae that came with your laptops were tuned for the adapters that were placed in them from the factory. Upgrading the adapter, especially in a laptop that isn't too old, should still work, but it likely won't work as well compared to devices that came with WiFi 6E/7 directly from the manufacturer; e.g. your phone.

Who is your ISP? Flow, Digicel, Starlink? Are you running these tests over WiFi, ethernet, through any other medium (e.g. Powerline, WiFi extenders, etc)? Is anything else running in the background (either locally or on the network) that might be consuming bandwidth at the same time?

So the PC(s) with the WiFi 6E adapters can see the 6GHz but cannot connect to the network?

Without reliable speeds, this will be difficult to do. If QoS is the only setting available for traffic shaping, then you might have to use the slowest speeds and live with that. If your router supported CoDel or fq_codel, you would get the dynamic adjustment that you want.

And what did WiFi Analyzer show?

How far are you from the XB8 when this happens? Do you have a separate SSID for the 6GHz band? Or does the XB8 give all bands the same SSID? Assess the strength of the 6GHz signal from the same computer using WiFi Analyzer. Post a screenshot.

Well, we never knew an XB8 existed until here. We don't all use Shaw to know this. Your 6GHz signal is coming from the XB8, not the RAX43. Phones tend to perform better with WiFi than computers for several reasons. But you should realize that 6GHz has an even shorter range than 5GHz. If an imaginary straight line drawn between your device and the XB8 encounters walls/floors with distance, then a 6GHz signal will be significantly attenuated by the time it reaches you. Being of 2 different brands, they're unlikely to be able to communicate in this manner. Even if they did, it would be at the expense of one band and, at that point, you're sacrificing speed and latency for coverage. A better way to do this would be to convert the RAX43 to AP mode and connect it to the XB8 via an ethernet uplink. You get a reliable wired backhaul that should always be at 1Gbps and can fully utilize all bands and ports on the RAX43.

If the TP-Link multi-WAN router has such a mode, that would be a silly mode to have. You'd essentially be turning it into a switch, unless it has the ability to keep all of it's advanced features (such as load balancing). These multi-WAN routers are purpose-built for small business applications that have specific needs. There's no need to have "alternate modes". But why don't you examine the router's interface yourself? I'm assuming you have one of TP-Link's multi-WAN routers. This is where marrying home user functions and business functions don't always go hand in hand. Deco is meant for home use. So no surprise that it comes with parental controls that can be managed in the app. Multi-WAN routers are intended for business or advanced home setups where you're likely to have other ways of content filtering and restrictions. In this specific situation, I couldn't find "parental controls" in the TP-Link emulator for the ER605. If you need both dual-WAN and parental controls with what you have now, then I guess that justifies multiple layers of NAT. I suggest you try the configuration and see if there are any issues to be concerned about at all. What I think you need here is a multi-WAN mesh home WiFi system. Unfortunately, I don't think TP-Link carries this kind of system. Even the new Archer BE800 with its dual 10Gb LAN/WAN ports will only use 1 for WAN. You'll more likely see these kind of features with Asus/AiMesh and Synology hardware. I subscribe to that channel and recalled seeing that video.

This is where stating pertinent information from the start could have saved a lot of misinterpretation. Never will be. All of the ethernet ports can only go at a maximum rate of 1Gbps. Higher aggregate/cumulative speeds of the WLAN are possible, but most home users don't care about it. Shaw/XB8 (WiFi 6E, tri-band) ---> 1GbE ---> RAX43 (WiFi 6, dual-band) Tests seem to have been done over WiFi 6E to the XB8 resulting in that screenshot @jre84 - Hopefully, you've configured the RAX43 in AP mode if you're concerned about double-NAT and port forwarding.

As in the PHY speed or local speed tests? Not sure what your S21 Ultra was seeing especially given what @Lurick pointed out about your router's specifications. Port aggregation has to be supported on both the router and the modem for that to work. When it comes to multi-gig internet connections, you have to make sure that your ports can exceed the speeds you'll be paying for. So, in your situation, you're looking at 2.5Gbps or better. This takes into consideration various overheads that can drop the speed and it also should provide you with hardware that can handle WAN-to-LAN or LAN-to-WAN speeds that high. Having gigabit ports doesn't necessarily mean that the hardware can perform transfers at gigabit speeds. The CPU/chipset/cooling must be up to the task.

Depends on how load balancing is set up in your router. You should learn how load balancing works, especially as it applies to your multi-WAN router. Watch the section of same video as it applies to policy routing. You can create groups of devices then assign those groups to a particular WAN. Theoretically, if your internet speeds are slower than the maximum that the Deco can handle, speeds should be minimally affected. At higher internet connection speeds, you might hit a limit since anything plugged in to that WAN port will have to negotiate at least 2 firewalls. Placing a "router" in bridge/passthrough mode or AP mode, releases CPU resources to achieve higher speeds doing other tasks. Where multiple layers of NAT come in to play is intermittent interruptions from internal IP renewals (DHCP), potential IP conflicts if both networks are within the same subnet, and firewall-related issues (routing from the WAN, through the first network and then the second, etc.). Unless you have a specific reason to run mesh units in their default mode behind a dual-WAN router, I'd run them in AP mode. I don't think Deco and Omada integrate with each other at this time even if they're both from TP-Link. Using them together will come with compromises. Again, watch the video. Technically, if you configure policy routing properly, the chosen WAN should only depend on the client, not the AP through which the client connects. Explore the Omada policy routing interface.

Clean off the camera lenses with one of those fine microfiber cloths. No need to use any harsh chemicals. Remove any lens protectors if you have one installed. Update your phone's ROM to the latest version. Delete the cache for the camera app, restart the phone and try using the camera again. You might have a broken AF system. Did you drop your phone prior to noticing this problem? If you can still return the phone for replacement or repair, try that. Otherwise, some people have reported tapping on the rear of the phone below the camera while the app is open gets AF to work. Obviously, this is just a temporary fix.

If you simply want to access your home network from work, just use OpenVPN. Unlike NordVPN, I don't think ProtonVPN has any "mesh" feature to activate.

As in they're all running in their default 'router' mode? Why? That's a whole lot of NAT. Read your router's manual on AP mode. That's not a model number. Those are features. Model will be on a sticker attached to the ISP unit directly. That's due to your setup.

Tried a different browser? Turned off any extensions/plugins? Have you updated your graphics drivers?

You don't need mesh to do this, but it is one of the simpler "set-it-and-forget-it" solutions that has this feature. Start by reading about what are mesh systems here. Then take a look at which setups work the best. That budget might be more in keeping with a WiFi 6 mesh system, but you can take a look at the other reviews for WiFi 6E/7 if your budget expands.

In Device Manager, go to 'View' > 'Show hidden devices'. Look under Network Adapters for any greyed out entry. That's likely your adapter. Open the laptop and find the adapter. Is it attached correctly? Are the antennae attached correctly? Eject it taking very good care not to damage the antenna cables/connectors. Then insert again, secure, and reattach antenna connectors. Boot laptop to see if the adapter is detected by Windows. If none of that works, have a talk with your friend.

The AR956x is a very old WiFi module. It only has a single 2.4GHz radio for 802.11b/g/n. I'd be surprised if Windows 11 even supports it today. Invest in a modern M.2/2230 WiFi/BT module to go with that motherboard.

WiFi Analyzer outputs different graphs based on the frequency it's analyzing. Are you sure you used the correct WiFi Analyzer app? Your previous screenshot showed a pure 2.4GHz analysis because you can only see channels 1-14. There should be a toggle in the interface to switch to the 5GHz view. Looking at what your phone was able to detect, it seems like your 2.4GHz spectrum is crowded as expected. Whoever is broadcasting 'House WiFi' obviously doesn't care about neighbours since they're using a 40MHz bandwidth. This wide on 2.4GHz is asking for interference. There's not much you can do about this; perhaps configure your router's radio to use channel 1 at 20MHz on 2.4GHz. Your 5GHz analysis is interesting. Your router seems to be using a 160MHz broadcast that predominantly overlaps the DFS range. Because most USB WiFi adapters tend to have hardware limitations, they rarely can "see" DFS channels. Furthermore, if they could see it, this segment of the 5GHz spectrum overlaps with weather radar and satellite communication use. As a result, your WiFi can be temporarily interrupted if these broadcasts are common in your area. You need to configure your router's radio to use a narrower channel width (80 or even 40MHz), which will sacrifice on overall throughput, and try using one of the upper 5GHz channels (149-165). It would have been nice to see that far to the right on your analysis to see if any neighbour is broadcasting that high.

When this happens, look at the hardware properties to see what error message it generates. There's always a message if you're seeing a yellow [!]. No need to install. Run live from USB. Ubuntu is popular. If WiFi works (hopefully, there are supported drivers in the Linux kernel), then that might point to a Windows driver issue. Wouldn't say it's unremovable. Probably more risk of damage if you tried. I've successfully removed the shroud on my MSI WiFi motherboard before to replace the M.2 WiFi adapter. Needed care, but I would understand your reluctance with an expensive board. Honestly, you can go on to investigate this problem as much as possible. Time taken to get a conclusion might be more than just getting a PCIe replacement one time if it's annoying you that much. I'd avoid USB if there's a compatible slot available.