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Everything posted by Falcon1986

  1. Some cable internet providers will run a separate line (different to the cable used to watch cable TV) for you to connect to your modem. If, at the time of initial installation, the technicians were made aware that the house was wired for coax, they could have terminated the connection at the coax junction box for all these cables. If you can locate the correct coax cable from your ISP, you should be able to cut it, create a T-junction, and connect it to "feed in" of the coax junction box. This would allow you to move the modem to whichever part of the house a coaxial port is located. If you have cable TV service, don't try this approach or you may lose your signal. Instead, you'll have to find a way to directly link the coax feed from the room of interest to the coax providing the internet.
  2. Run a wireless survey from your PC with a free WiFi analyzer. Are there other wireless networks in the neighbourhood overlapping with yours? Are any other devices on the network accessing the internet at the same time that you're running these tests? Does the ping improve if you move closer to the wireless access point? At its normal position, is there anything obstructing line of sight to your wireless access point (e.g. walls, ceiling)? Do you have any microwaves or wireless telephones in your house close to the computer or wireless access point?
  3. That’s correct. The limitation is at the port/hardware level for both WAN and LAN. So, to get the most out of your internet connection, you need a wireless router with gigabit WAN and LAN ports.
  4. Sounds like your USB interface might become under-powered when your GPU starts drawing more power from the PCIe slot/PSU. How many other USB devices do you have plugged in? Are any being used to power devices other than just for data transfers? Have you tried reinstalling the motherboard’s chipset drivers?
  5. A wireless extender might work well for extending signal range, but it can introduce more latency of which regular web browsing won’t suffer too much, but other sensitive programs like games might. Secondly, wireless “boosting” technology, whether at the access point end or the network adapter end can also introduce the same problems especially with incompatible hardware. So, it’s best to turn these features off (Yes, I know. It sounds counterintuitive!). From your end, you can access this through your WiFi card’s hardware properties. Thirdly, what make/model of WiFi adapter are you using? Is roaming aggressiveness set too high? Is the WiFi signal being broadcast on 2.4GHz or 5GHz? Which is your WiFi adapter using to connect? How “busy” is your neighbourhood’s WiFi signals? Run a site survey with a WiFi scanner. If channels are overlapping a lot and everyone is using WiFi then that can contribute to problems. Try to steer clear of 2.4GHz and use 5GHz. If any band is crowded, you might want to consider narrowing the channel width (maybe 20MHz for 2.4GHz band and 40MHz for the 5GHz band) at the cost of reduced maximum throughput. Finally, if you’re sharing WiFi with a neighbour, slowdowns for everyone can be due to anyone’s internet usage at the time. This is common in college dorm setups. Someone might be downloading large files or hogging most of the bandwidth, which will cause all other users to suffer if proper traffic prioritization isn’t being enforced at the router.
  6. Well, if you’ve exhausted all you can do from your router, and you can’t access the ISP’s gateway, then you’ll have to wait until your ISP’s support come back online.
  7. Has your ISP provided you with a simple modem or a gateway? A gateway has modem, router and access point functions built into a single unit. If it’s a gateway, have you enabled “bridge” mode so that routing functions can be handled by your TP-Link router? Does your wired PC use a static internal IP outside of the DHCP range as set by the TP-Link router? If not, you should try setting this up.
  8. So the modem/gateway that allows you to get internet is not located in your home? That’s a different way of doing it. So how do you connect to it with your own router? Can you trace the cable back to the gateway? If you can trace it, you can look to see if there are any login credentials written on it or at least get a make/model number. Then you can Google to see if any generic passwords exists. You would be able to log into the admin interface by going to the IP listed as “gateway” from the internet properties for your computer’s network card. Should you be unable to reach your ISP’s tech support and not be able to log into their gateway yourself, there’s very little you can do now until curfews lift or at least companies adapt better to remote support.
  9. You'd think that deactivating the power saving feature of the NIC would be what you need to do, but on Windows, you lose WOL when doing this. Have you looked through the BIOS settings to see what is available to change with regards to power saving and WOL. Another thing you can try is to change the power plan to 'full power' or no restrictions.
  10. Are you sure this is CAT5 or CAT5e? Between the 2, only CAT5e is rated for a theoretical maximum of 1Gbps. When you say "incoming port", what does this mean? is this the WAN port on the router? LAN ports are for connecting your client devices to the router. What make of router is this?
  11. You're going to be limited in what you can find from a general consumer-grade standpoint in this situation. If you need dual WAN (whether it's for link aggregation or failover), you can look at Ubiquiti's USG (pro and non-pro versions) or their EdgeRouter lineup. The EdgeRouter tends to allow more granular control (through CLI or config files) whereas the USG provides a better GUI. In any case, you don't necessarily need one with tons of ports as devices from any of these lines are just meant to do the routing functions. You can attach any of their switches (again, either UniFi Switches or EdgeSwitches) or any other reliable third-party switches (e.g. Netgear, TP-Link, D-Link, etc.) to get the number of ports you need. Keep in mind that you'll get managed switches with the former that can easily be managed from the UniFi Controller or UNMS. Wireless access points can be added separately.
  12. Try TeraCopy and FastCopy. Do you get sustained speeds with them? Do your computers connect to the network via WiFi or ethernet?
  13. What is the make and model of this PC? Which GPU are you planning to upgrade to?
  14. Network & Internet Settings > Change Adapter Options > right click on motherboard adapter and select 'Disable'. BTW, from that screenshot, it looks like the drivers for your 'Other devices' are missing and is in need of attention. Did you already uninstall the drivers?
  15. What are the model numbers on those two devices? Are they both providing WiFi? If the Netgear had better WiFi, use that as your only router and access point. No need to complicate the setup with the TP Link. Does your internet connection speed from your ISP exceed 100Mbps? If it does, consider getting a new wireless router altogether as previously suggested. It doesn't have to be expensive and you can save a few dollars if you don't mind used products on eBay.
  16. Reboot your modem followed by your router. If settings have changed at the ISP end they might be pending propagation. Use the default ISP's DNS servers for now. With a computer directly plugged into the modem/router, run a speed test at DSLReports and do some browsing. Let us know your experience.
  17. Download the free WiFi Analyzer app from the Microsoft Store or similar free software on your laptop or smart phone. (disable data, enable only WiFi). Run a WiFi survey next to each access point and report back to us what you're finding. Repeat for areas you consider "dead zones". Screenshots might be more helpful if you can post those.
  18. What download and upload speeds are you supposed to get from your ISP? What are you paying for? Do you get better speeds if wired directly into the modem/gateway from your ISP? Is there anyone else using the same connection when you're running the speed tests?
  19. Honestly, I have no idea. You'll have to try it yourself and see. Let us know what you find out.
  20. For such an old house, how confident are you in the reliability of the wiring? If the house had updated wiring within the last 1-2 decades, you can try Powerline adapters, but the speeds on these are unpredictable and dependent on the quality of the electrical wiring, etc. You won't know until you try it. Since running ethernet doesn't seem to be an option, my recommendation would be to use a mesh WiFi solution. Personally, I prefer wired-in access points, but your situation/constraints seem to be ideal for a mesh system. The nice thing about mesh is that you can move the mesh points around until you get the best coverage and doesn't require wall/ceiling mounting; as long as it can be powered it's totally fine. There are many mesh WiFi reviews online. Here's one from thewirecutter.com and techradar.com. I've heard good things about the Synology router/AP devices.
  21. Gotcha! Well, I guess you'll be the one to find out. Try it and let us know since all you should need are ethernet cables to get the links going.
  22. My approach to this would be the following for around $315: Ubiquiti Edgerouter X ($60) - connected to internet gateway Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W ($96) - connected to the ER-X 2x Ubiquiti UniFi AC Lite ($160) - access points; one for basement and one for top floor; connected over PoE to Switch 8 You can swap out the ER-X for a USG and add a Cloud Key later (or just build your own with a Raspberry Pi) for UniFi Controller, but these are not necessary. The UniFi Controller can run on a locally-attached PC until you migrate over. If you're not looking to ceiling-mount the access points and would rather have something that can be placed on a shelf, you can replace one or both of the AC Lites with a UniFi Flex HD (especially on the upper floor). And if you didn't figure it out by now, I like the newer generation of Ubiquiti products. The older UniFi and AmpliFi generations had issues, but the newer equipment are more reliable.
  23. I've seen the base game go for $5-6 on sale over this week. That's a pretty good deal if you're interested in the game. My favourite DLCs are Mass Transit, Green Cities and Industries. All DLCs go on sale from time to time.
  24. I think you're misunderstanding what I said before. Yes, your router can do failover and load-balancing, but that's with 2 different WAN connections; i.e. two different WAN IP addresses. You can't do load balancing on a single WAN connection over 2 physical ethernet cables. If the modem fails or slows, the router's backup is to failover to the same modem? Have you asked your ISP for help with this? Because I'm predicting you might need their help to activate the correct settings on the Arris gateway.
  25. I don't think that's how the Dual WAN feature works for your AX88U. My impression is that it's for use in a scenario where there are 2 separate WAN connections, and this isn't even for bandwidth coalescing; it's for failover.