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About Falcon1986

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Kingston, Jamaica
  • Biography
    Was always interested in tech and computers. My first PC build was an AMD socket 939-based system! Yeah, that's old! But was also interested in science so spent a lot of time in school and now I'm a doctor in post-graduate studies to become an Anaesthesiologist/Intensivist. Still like keeping up-to-date with the tech world since ZDTV/TechTV existed.
  • Occupation
    Medical Doctor


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 3600
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB
  • GPU
    eVGA nVidia GTX 1660 Ti
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core V1
  • Storage
    Sabrent 1TB NVME, Samsung EVO 860 1TB SSD, Seagate Firecuda 2TB HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA 650 GQ 80+ Gold 650W Modular
  • Cooling
    be quiet! Dark Rock Tf
  • Mouse
    Logitech G300s
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional (64-bit)
  1. The NH-D15 has cutouts at the lower parts of the fin array that should allow DIMM module clearance on either side of the cooler. Of course, you might need to remove one of the outer fans if you have DIMMs on both sides of the cooler. I've used the Dark Rock TF in an SFF build and it works very well as a "blow down" air cooler. Because it is essentially shaped like an inverted pyramid, it clears my Corsair DIMM modules.
  2. One of that PSU's features is "Zero RPM fan mode for near-silent operation at low to medium loads".
  3. If you're using 2 RAM modules, make sure they're attached firmly to DIMM slots A2 and B2. Onboard video probably won't work because you likely need an APU (CPU with integrated graphics) to utilize it. There's a note about this on page 10 of the motherboard's manual. Any audible beep codes can also give hints to the problematic component. Your motherboard manual says that a single beep at power-on means that everything is fine. Double check all your cable and component connections. If you still can't find the problem, tear everything down and start rebuilding from scratch. You'd be surprised that a simple thing as a short from something in contact with the motherboard can prevent a startup.
  4. Most routers that you buy off the shelf will allow you to set whatever LAN IP range that you want. The problem comes in when you attach this router and it sees another router on the network (your AIO device/gateway). Each will want to do the duties of the other which will end up in a network conflict. What you need to do here is, if your gateway device allows, activate "bridge" mode, directly connect it via ethernet to your new router and configure it as you would for router responsibilities, QOS, wireless, etc. Your client devices would connect to the new router's AP and have all the finer details of network traffic management be managed by the new router; the gateway is only there to get the new router onto the DSL connection. Of course, achieving the above requires that you are able to log into the AIO gateway's admin page. Hopefully you know the username/password. Not all gateways will allow you to activate "bridge" mode easily. I use a cable ISP that provided one such device. So what I did was enter the gateway's configuration, manually turned off its WiFi, and assigned a static IP to the MAC address of my new "router". Then I directly connected my new router via ethernet to the gateway, configured the new router how I wanted (including setting my own LAN addresses, etc.) and that was it! Effectively, I didn't want the gateway to hand out an automatically-assigned IP to my new router every time the lease expired because all of my client devices would disconnect. I'd suggest you make this new network on a completely different subnet from the one on the AIO gateway. So far it's been working perfectly for my situation. I used a Ubiquiti Edgerouter X-SFP to do the routing/firewall/QOS and 2 Ubiquiti UAP-ACs for access points. After configuring the Edgerouter's QOS I was amazed at how responsive the network became especially when multiple clients were connected.
  5. Plug directly into a display output on the motherboard. Does anything display? Also, can you determine which BIOS version you have? I came across this page on the ASUS website... https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-X470-F-GAMING/HelpDesk_CPU/ On my B450 build, I had to use an older Athlon AM4 CPU to update the BIOS before being able to utilize my Ryzen 5 3600.
  6. Take a look at this video released recently: Youtube.
  7. Agreed. But when I wanted to do the same thing, I had to get a dedicated inexpensive new adapter. It also allowed 2 controllers to be used simultaneously for multiplayer games. If I remember correctly, this is the one I got from Amazon that worked with the toolkit: LINK.
  8. With that kind of budget, just buy a new system or build another. Your current system is based on very old hardware with limited performance. You should be able to get more modern hardware with that budget for an entirely new system.
  9. Are you working with a budget for this upgrade? What do you hope to be able to do with an upgrade of this PC? Was this a custom-built PC or was it obtained from a popular PC brand? What kind of case/form factor are you working with? If you're willing to keep the motherboard, you can just upgrade the CPU, RAM and GPU. As a start, found your motherboard specifications here. Looks like your maximum supported CPU is Sandy Bridge CPUs, but I've also found posts elsewhere saying that a BIOS update can allow for Ivy Bridge CPUs. Was this an OEM license or full retail/upgrade license? If you still have the license key you should be able to reuse it after activation. However, with all the hardware upgrades you plan to do I'm not entirely sure the Windows activation will be a straightforward process. Might need to do a call-in activation if prompted.
  10. Is Windows Update trying to do anything in the background? Is anything being flagged as "unknown" or "unidentified" in Device Manager? The B350GT3 has 4 slots for memory modules. Are you using the correct slot for the module(s) as recommended in the motherboard manual? Also, are you using XMP settings for the RAM in the BIOS? If not, try setting it.
  11. So I installed the Dark Rock TF with some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and, I must say, I'm thoroughly impressed! Firstly, the Dark Rock TF fits perfectly in this case. Heat pipes cleared the RAM modules and VRM heat spreaders without a problem. However, because this HSF "gets bigger" as it gets taller (like an inverted pyramid), my two 80mm exhaust fans became the only hindrance. Anyway, I simply fixed that by mounting them on the outside of the case. There is about a 1.5" gap between the case lid and top fan of the HSF, but this doesn't seem to hinder the performance of this air cooler. Secondly, idle temperatures have dropped to 45-50 degrees C, single core temperature has seen a max of 65 degrees C on load and multi-core temperature max of 75 degrees C! I feel more comfortable now with these temperatures. Thanks everyone for your recommendations!
  12. Thanks for the suggestions. I don’t have any problems shopping at the major online retailers (Amazon, Newegg, eBay) and I’d like to keep the budget under $100... even less if the price for performance is good. I like the downdraft-type coolers for their ability to also cool the VRMs. However, the issue I have with the tall ones in this case is that their height might cause them to be too close to the glass window “roof” panel of the Core V1 and cause turbulent air flow. I know I can swap out the panel for an all-metal perforated one, but dust would easily accumulate in the case with time.
  13. I recently built a compact ITX Ryzen system for portability and am quite satisfied with it except for the high temperatures and resultant throttling on full load. The components of concern are as follows: Case: Thermaltake Core V1 (stock 200mm fan intake at front, 2x 80mm fans exhaust at rear) Motherboard: MSI B450i Gaming Plus AC CPU: Ryzen 3600 with stock cooler RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB Because of the small internal environment of the Core V1, I knew there would be challenges with temperature, especially since I live in a tropical climate. Idle CPU temperatures are in the upper 50 to 60-degree C range, but on synthetic stress tests the CPU temperature is getting above 95 degrees C and not achieving full 4.2GHz speeds. Now I'm not planning to overclock this system to cause more heat production, but should I be concerned about those high temperatures on load? I would be more comfortable with temperatures under 85-90 degrees C with air cooling preferred. Given the 140mm height limit for CPU coolers in this case, the close proximity of the RAM modules and VRM heatspreaders, what would be your recommendation? Thanks for your helpful advice. Photos: one, two