NotSoEpicMods

I would probably recommend a higher wattage if they ever plan on pushing the system in the future. My 9900k system pulls 650W from the wall under full load. I prefer to have a little more headroom than a few watts here and there. As far as I can see the only corsair psu of bad quality I see is the VS 2012 versions in the tier list.

I would DDU and reinstall gpu drivers. It does kinda sound like a failing gpu. Did your gpu temps look normal before this started? The gpu is a 4 year old card and may be overheating as well since the TIM might be dried out. Also what specific model of PSU is it? I know seasonic is a pretty reputable brand but they have made a few duds in the past.

Well mine is on water since you're on a stock cooler I wouldn't worry about it.

Oh wow what a relic from the past. I remember watching his videos way back when. Anyways no I don't think they're really useful in today's hardware environment. Back when gpu coolers mainly sucked they would help a few degrees but were still overall just for looks.

I think that's pretty normal. My 9900k can fluctuate 5 degrees quite rapidly and can spike in temp until the fan catches up to bring the temps back down.

Update #29 December 31, 2019 So all the best plans can always have some hiccups. The 90 I was planning on using, the one out of the rad, turns out was leaking quite a bit. It was one of those re-branded type fittings and is the second that has leaked on me which is why I never really used them for critical points in the loop like over a gpu. So time for a redesign. Yep that’ll work. I guess the paint isn’t fully cured yet either since some of it has flaked off from the plastic clips. I ended up drilling another hole on the other side of the case and just ran a tube through it cus really who’s gonna lift my system just to check how my drain port works. This is how the tube will be stored under the case so it’ll be totally stealthed. I don’t have a drain valve just a plugged fitting. My plan is to just pinch off the hose then pull plug out to drain the system. It’s worked find for me in the past so why make it more complicated? Plus these only cost a couple dollars anyways. Before getting the drives and res in I put some black car edge trim over the jagged parts that I cut away. That hose coming from the top is actually coming from the fill port and not the top of the rads. The way i connected the 2 rads together is probably the tightest tubing run I’ve ever seen/done I’ll put a pic below. All parts are in. Now I know what you’re thinking. why in the world would you put a 2.5″ 5400rpm hard drive in this system? Well, I actually have an ssd on the way and a family member will be bringing it tonight for New Years when they visit. This is my tube routing, it’s as short as I can get the tubing runs but I’m not 100% sure about the layout. None of the tubes really cross too much. I’m not even sure how else I could change it. But I really love that EK matte black tubing. Pretty easy to fill this loop. You may also notice that there’s no front I/O and well since I removed it 5 years ago I haven’t missed it at all. At my last place I actually had a USB extension mounted to the underside of my desk which is really all I needed for this pc. Now I have a usb port on my keyboard so I don’t even need the under desk usb port. Here’s all the old tubing which I will keep most of for just in case and other stuff and the 2 old rads. Sorting through the mess of wires while I bleed the bubbles out of the loop. The almighty commander pro. Surprisingly one of my favorite purchases for my pc. While it’s not perfect it does pretty much what I need it to do. It’ll also work with my 2 Phobya in line temp sensors. It also adds 2 usb headers behind the mobo tray if I want to add things later. Well she ain’t pretty at the back but she works. But aww man look at that front. Does it ever look clean. What do you think? Transferring the files off the old hard drive onto the new WD NVMe. Well until I get my SSD I’m gonna hold off on doing glamour pics. I also have a new mic for my setup which I’ll probably do a whole setup picture as well.

Hmm where to start there's been a ton of upgrades this year and I'm still trying to finish them before the year is out. I'll just list them below. i9 9900k mobo ddr4 ram 2080Ti samsung 32" monitor nvme drives win 10 pro new rads new fans commander pro case mods paint I'm sure there's other things I'm forgetting. If you're interested link in my sig.

Ah ok well my ambient is about 5-6c warmer and 9900k would be at about 55C at 25% load though it's clocked at 5.1ghz. So would make sense it's quite a bit warmer compared to your setup. Don't recall what it was at idle before I tore my system apart for the case mod. Bright side though with the tear apart I know my thermal paste application was good.

Nice are those temps at stock settings? The 9900ks must have some nice thermals compared to the k or at least compared to the temps on my 9900k.

Double check in the bios you might be able to disable some cores on the cpu. Unfortunately that is the only way I see you being able to reduce running wattage without changing hardware. Maybe try running the PC with the PSU outside of the case and see if the problem continues. If it continues then there is something wrong with the PSU or something else is wrong with the system.

Update #28 December 30, 2019 Well parts are painted. While I was waiting between coats and the paint to dry I decided to tackle my gpu. If you didn’t know when I first installed my full cover block I had temp issues. After a remount the temp issues improved but I never really got quite the performance and temperatures I was expecting even though I did buy a lower tier 2080Ti. So I decided to crack this thing open since I have the entire system apart anyways. I also want to clean the block since I had some residue in my old loop which seems to have collected in the gpu block. This is also kind of the reason I went with a clear block instead of a solid acetal block like my cpu is so that I can easily see if the system needs any maintenance. I also purchased new Arctic MX-4 thermal paste and Arctic thermal pads to replace what I had already on the card. Well that thermal spread looks pretty crap. No wonder my temps weren’t that great and my boost clock wasn’t nearly as high as I wanted. While it was a better spread than my last attempt it still wasn’t great so it got me thinking what the hell. Then I noticed it, if you look at the mounting holes around the die you’ll notice that there’s some squished glue on them. It was like a light bulb turned on and I couldn’t believe I didn’t see it before. So I very very very carefully took a box cutter and scraped away all the glue I could. Well I wiped the block clean and got all the thermal pads applied and applied thermal paste. I probably didn’t need the 4 dots since the center of the X was fairly thick but since it’s non conductive paste I figured it won’t hurt. I also filled the parts of the mounting posts on the block that face the corners of gpu die. I also began prepping all the other parts including the pump and res. I probably should’ve checked clearances like this 90 on the res earlier since I want to get the pc up and running for new years but I guess it worked out.

There's not really a way to get the temperature lower. Just make sure the PSU it getting plenty of fresh air and that its fan is spinning. If it has that and you're still experiencing problems you either have a faulty PSU or have a problem somewhere else.

What sort of budget do you have? Are you strictly going to be gaming or are you going to do some streaming/recording of gameplay as well? What games will you be playing?

Are you having issues or problems like stuttering? If not and your only concern is low gpu usage then it just sounds like you don't need that much horsepower to run the game at your settings, fps and resolution.

Manufacturers usually don't cover physical damage due to user error. Nothing is stopping you from asking them though so I would at least ask if it's something they would do.

Well Like I said you usually won't have any issues and you won't notice a cooling impact with only a few fins damaged. So long as you've confirmed that it's not leaking then I wouldn't worry about it.

I would download HWMonitor or similar monitoring program and see what your pump speed is running at when you have overheating issues. Kinda sounds like your AIO pump is failing but make sure the pump power is plugged into a pump header on the motherboard as sometimes they will not get enough power on a cpu fan header.

Bent/damaged fins usually don't cause an issue. Any way you can post a picture of the damage?

You can't really have "too much" wattage the parts will only use as much power as they need. Actually you usually want some good headroom on the psu wattage so that it's sitting in the most efficient part of it's efficiency curve under load. 650w is a little lower than I would be comfortable with but it should be fine for those parts. I would look somewhere else maybe overall case air flow could be improved or something to help.

Yea typically the sweet spot for price/performance is 3200mhz and if you can try and get 2 sticks of 4gb minimum. This will allow you to upgrade to 16gb more easily in the future if you can't afford that now because gaming rigs need more and more ram as time goes by. Also since you already have the slower ram you could always try and see how far you can overclock it. You never really know how far you can get it.

It can but it also depends on the program and yes it can be a bit of a chain reaction type thing. I'm not to familiar with rust. I'm also not too familiar with the Ryzen overclocking but you may also want to try overclocking a core or two if you can, or all cores if you can't just be mindful of cooling. Just because overall cpu usage is low doesn't mean the cpu still isn't the bottle neck. The issues could also be software side as well.

There is a good chance your slower ram is affecting your performance since ryzen loves fast ram. You couls always try increasing the ram speed a little and see if that aleviates your issues at all.

Looks like the gpu is waiting on something in the system most likely your cpu. What is the cpu usage like?

Those front fans should deliver an adequate amount of air to the gpu you shouldn't need to flip the fan on the AIO. All in all your case flow in its current config seems pretty balanced if not slightly positive pressure due to rad resistance.

Update #27 December 29, 2019 Well my drive came in and wow it looks real slick. Was it worth the price I paid? Probably not. Remounted the CPU block with the Phobya flow through temp sensor fitting on the exit side. While I was at it I threw in that smexy NVMe drive. There’s also no doubt that I’m going to have to do some sheet metal work for the interior of the case. I just used some very thin galvanized ducting for ease of use. With the 2 NVMe ssds now in the system I no longer need 4 hard drives so I will be retaining my two WD Red drives and moving my WD Black and Green to other PCs. As you can see this is how I’m planning on displaying those drives. I used mobo stand offs I had to space them from the case. Here’s a better look at how things will sit inside the case. If you noticed I cut out a large portion of the 5.25″ bay mounting area. I may or may not regret this at some point in the far future but we’ll see. I was also planning on making a cut out for the cpu back plate but after thinking for a little bit I honestly don’t think I would ever change my cpu block or cooler enough to justify cutting one. I also I only made necessary cut outs for the 24 pin, sata data, and front panel connectors. After I got everything mocked up I walked by my box of random pc junk and this 2.5″ to 3.5″ drive adapter that I got with some ssds long ago caught my eye. It looks just tall enough for something… Perfect, looks like I can add another drive haha. Well this is everything I will need to paint. Mobo tray cover, 2.5″ drive bracket, new case floor, vertical gpu bracket and the case itself. I’ll be using a matte black automotive wheel paint once I get all the surfaces prepped tonight.