NotSoEpicMods

Ok, I don't know why you're getting so bent out of shape about his title so let me play defender a little here. First off, I only see the price once in his title and once in his signature with a share link to this thread and by the nature of the forms once again in the share link. Next, who knows if he's including the price of the entire setup not just the tower. In which case yes maybe they should added "Setup" in their title and took pictures of everything. Also, not everyone has access to the absolute lowest prices that are listed on pcpartpicker. What if they live in a country where they charge an obscene amount for pc parts compared to the US prices? For example, the 9900k is apparently $780 in Australia according to this: https://www.shopbot.com.au/pp-intel-core-i9-9900k-price-557526.html I myself ended up paying $719cad for my 9900k. Yea I could've gotten it a bit cheaper but I wanted to get it and the motherboard from a physical store. With my own main rig tipping the scales at nearly $8k for the whole setup I certainly believe that they could've paid $5000 for the tower alone even though neither my system or theirs may not look like it to some. At any rate we should just be happy and enjoy the time and effort that @jakeslayer9091 put into building this system even if they post the price in the title. Besides "5000$ Custom Loop water cooled PC" catches more attention than "I built a watercooled pc".

Yes you just need a USB drive if you can't use the dvd itself. During the installation it will ask you for a key and you can use the one from the dvd.

Fans are probably only about $280-$300 of the entire system regular price. I would reckon the majority of the build cost is that 2080Ti. I have pretty much the exact same hardware in my Cosmos Sv2 build. I gotta say I love how different the system looks from my own.

It's likely that adapter can't support 144hz. Your video card has an hdmi port you should be able to get a simple hdmi to dvi-d cable. The two have the same video signal standard so it's basically a simple cable with 2 different ends.

Did you make sure your adapter is Dual-link DVI-D? You can get a cable but just make sure that it is Dual-link DVI-D or it may not support 144hz. You could pass through the video to another video card but it's quite a work around compared to just buying a cable.

1. Corsair Dark Core 2. Mainly gaming, some photo and video editing as well 3. Medium weight? I would say slightly lighter but not the lightest 4. 4 5. No 6. It is both, mainly use it in wired mode. 7. Yes 8. 3 9. 5 10. Matte finish 11. 5 12. Probably not 13. Yes 14. No Not sure about the rules on this but wouldn't a google form make this type of thing easier?

A bad cooler mount could certainly cause undesirable temps and it doesn't take much. On my main rig it took 3 remounts of my gpu block and it turns out it was caused by a tiny amount of glue in the way of a mount. Anyways you could always try reinstalling afterburner before you try a remount.

How long did you monitor the gpu before you left it? and did you stress test it before this happened? It almost sounds like you got a bad mount for the cooler.

Does it still show these values after a pc restart?

I have pretty much the exact same specs in my Cosmos Sv2 rig and that seems pretty normal to me.

I kinda guessed it was one of those office boxes since you can't really use the mobo in other cases. I found a page from intel titled "4th Generation Intel® Core™ Processors with Intel® Q87 Chipset (Formerly Shark Bay Desktop)" my guess is that any cpu on that list should work, someone correct me if I'm wrong though. https://www.intel.ca/content/www/ca/en/embedded/products/shark-bay/desktop/specifications.html

Last time I had an AIO from corsair was when the original H100 was new. The AIO pump should default to full speed if you just provide it power and no speed control. So there's likely a molex or sata power connector and a pwm/speed sense plug which looks like a fan plug end. Just plug the power in and not the other connector. If it's still overheating so much that you can't get into windows then either your AIO has failed or there's a mounting issue.

Is there a reason you're replacing the cpu? Was it taken out for another pc, are you just wanting to upgrade it or is the pc not working and you think it's the cpu? Like @Slottr said we need to know what chipset or what the model of mobo you have.

I see prime95 as a pretty unrealistic load. I mean I find it great to test out thermal capacities of a cooling system but it's a very unrealistic cpu load. I would run something like Realbench and see how your temps are then.

I've used my commander pro in my main rig for a while now and in a couple different ways. Before my major upgrade I would use the temps directly from the gpu/cpu(in iCUE) to control my fans for my rads even though the temps for the cpu would fluctuate quite a bit. After the upgrade I use temp probes on the water loop to get more stable temp readings.

I wouldn't spend a dime on the old case. I don't know how old your son is but I would make him pay for any upgrades if he's old enough to work. Maybe even set up a shore/allowance type system if he's really determined to do upgrades and he can't work. Then once he gets his upgrades spend some time together with him when you transfer the parts over. Sounds like some great father son bonding time to me.

I did this trick with standard hard drives in my Cosmos Sv2 build and it works pretty nice so I don't see why it wouldn't work on an SSD.

I would get an external hard drive and put all your recordings on there. It's a good idea to have a backup anyways.

I hate to say it but I hope this serves as a lesson to double check everything after messing around in a pc case. Even if it's just to replace a hard drive or fan you never know what you might nudge or unplug. Anyways maybe take a look at the Phobya flow through temp sensors(https://www.dazmode.com/shop/watercooling/fittings/specialized-fittings/sensor-fittings/temperature-sensor-mf-g14-matte-black-sleeved/). I'm using 2 of them in my Cosmos Sv2 build and one of them is sitting on the outlet of my EK block so basically no distance to the block and they work with the commander pro.

Well cleaning out the thermal paste is worth a shot if it's non-conductive it might be insulating some pins. If the issue still happens could be something wrong with the board like power delivery or something.

You should be able to run the pump full speed without it connected to anything but power. If you're still overheating that you can't get into windows you probably have a mounting issue so I would do a remount. Pay attention to how well the thermal paste is spread when you take it off. It should fully cover the cpu in a very thin layer.

Have you uninstalled and reinstalled iCUE?

Might be depending on what type of thermal paste it was. You could always try cleaning it out with rubbing alcohol. I would use the 99% stuff though(might have to ask for it since where I am it's always behind the counter). Also since it only acted up when you loaded up a game it could be something else causing the issue like the gpu or psu still.

I think you'd be pretty safe. Just try not to stick it directly onto a hard drive especially while it is in operation. Interestingly this reminds me of a video I once saw and the same person made an updated one with more modern hardware.

Well he did say it boots up with the IGPU.