Satish Suthar

Hello everyone!
 
Just to update this thread on the situation, my situation has been fixed for now, it's been about 2 weeks and I haven't had any lag, it's because I told my ISP that day about the "packet loss" issue.
Luckily, the guy understood that there was some kind of congestion in the backend server somewhere outside of my town, and as he said that it'll be fixed soon, it did.
Though he lied about working on it for quite some time before I complained but that doesn't matter as long as it's resolved haha.
 
Thanks to everyone of you! To take your time and try to enlighten me on the issue so that I could explain everything better and this made the guy seemed like I knew a lot about the technical stuff so I think that may have played a part in him acknowledging my issue and try to fix it.

That is not true at all, maybe it was for DDR and DDR2 days? but not anymore
 
Though it will always be recommended to get the exact model to match the primary timings, the Memory IC's *might* be different but the board is smart enough to figure it out the secondary and tertiary timings on its own.

well that place is lying its perfectly fine to buy ram of the same model later. heck its fine most of the time running ram of different models together. i ran 2 g skill sniper ram with 2 generic lenovo oem ram and they ran without any problems but to be safe they should be the same model

It'll be fine, no worries. I've even ran 2x4 1600 MHz + 1x8 1866 MHz on DDR3 for years without issues.

@spartaman64 is correct.
 
Buy the other kit later, no worries at all.  Many of us here have done that exact thing.

Haha, wish you a good day too, brother!

No Problem i wish u a good day  

Ye i would go with that one for sure its even rated for a delta e below 2 so perfekt for foto work etc ^^

Glad to hear it was indeed a faulty cooler. Enjoy your cooler temperatures and hope you get gaming =)

Great news!
I figured it out for sure that it's my cooler that's failing. I got myself another Intel stock cooler after I asked this dude at the computer shop to give me the one from this brand new box of processor.
With this stock cooler + pre-applied paste to it, my idle temps gone down to 33 - 35 degrees.
This stayed below 75 for the most part when I was playing PUBG today. Mostly around 68-69 degrees.
Also, I got to check my GTX H100i on my friend's PC and his processor was going above 40-50 too. And about 95 degrees with stress test.
So I'll get my cooler replaced now!
 
So thank you everyone for trying to help me out here!
Especially @For Science!

Glad to hear the problem was found

MCE, or multi core enhancement is ASUS BIOS setting that turbos all cores instead of the standard couple, I think its on the front page of the Extreme Tweaker tab. As for voltage, "the lowest that it is stable at" is the unfortunate answer so can't really help you, but probably below 1.35V if you are overclocked.
 
 

Try Realbench, if it Instagoes to 100, try cinebench for me cinebench is 5 degrees cooler than realbench. if even that is too much try your PUBG.
 
so it'l be good to get those numbers for your AIO before swapping. (so just get cinebemch)

sp140/120's are great fans, 850w is a little overkill but its fine, positive pressure is reccomended, so have the 200mm as intake, 2 rad fans as intake and one exhaust fan, did you decide on a gpu yet?

Both CPU's will deliver great results in heavy tasks. Sure the Ryzen might pull ahead a bit in certain things due to having 2 more cores and 4 more threads, but in most scenarios, when the 8700k is overclocked to at least 4.8, the things that it does lose to the ryzen with, arent usually too great in difference. the things with R7's, is that a 1700 could effectively overclock to the exact same speeds as an 1800X, making it pretty much identical. However, buying a 1700x gets you higher stock speeds, and sometimes an ever so slight chance of getting a higher max OC (the range is usually in the 3.8-4.0 for all R7's if you get a decent chip) and the 1800x comes out of the box able to turbo to the 4.0 mark, making overclocking not necessary to reach the same goal. They each have their own pro's and con's, but i would still say overall the 8700k is probably the better chip as a whole. Anything that likes higher clock speeds paired with better IPC will love it, anything that favors more cores and threads, it will still come close to the R7 or even trade off. Ryzen builds can also be a bit more fickle with overclocking, RAM stability, ETC.
That being said, R7 is nothing to sneeze at. it offers great gaming performance, and awesome heavy workload performance. As you saw in the video i posted, the comparisons in gaming are pretty far in difference, but Ryzens average FPS was still at very high and playable levels. Ryzen builds can be a bit more fickle with overclocking, RAM stability, ETC.
 
Looking at those tests, you can see how close the i7 comes, if not beating the Ryzen as well which doesnt help his claim =P by the way, i love AMD. i would love to be able to recommend their products, but i cannot do that when its not necesarilly the best option as we all must be unbiased to better help the community. 
 
In the end its your PC. I can only give you the tools to help you come to a decision through benchmarks and data, and i or others, can help you build a draft of a good build for either platform =P

yes! the best op rn

as stated, the ipc and clock speed advantage that intel has will outweigh the 2 core deficit from 1700 to 8700k in almost all programs, ryzen naturally runs cooler but has its niches

Essentially running 2 sticks of RAM lets you populate each channel on your motherboard. Out of the 4 slots, there is A 1 and 2, and B 1 and 2. If you populate both channels at once (whether thats 2 sticks, A-1 and B-1, or all 4 slots) it should theorhetically double your RAM acess bandwidth on your PC. Some RAM modules at certain speeds are more stable in 2-4 stick variants as well which could mean better stability and headroom for overclocking RAM. Running a single stick works just fine in most cases and alot of people do that in budget builds, but for a high end build like your building, id go for the 2-4 stick options.
Also to find out which slots are channels A or B, check your motherboards manual and it will tell you which is which.
For a much more in depth explanation, heres a video =P
 

I would get a coffeelake I7k. 

That sounds like a pretty solid idea. Your PSU should do just fine lasting til then, and making sure the backbone (motherboard) and RAM of your PC can keep up with everything you throw at it would be best to start with as a foundation. Maybe hold off on overclocking for now to not put any extra stress on the PSU that you dont need for now, since your specs should do more than fine at stock anyways

Hello everyone!
 
Just to update this thread on the situation, my situation has been fixed for now, it's been about 2 weeks and I haven't had any lag, it's because I told my ISP that day about the "packet loss" issue.
Luckily, the guy understood that there was some kind of congestion in the backend server somewhere outside of my town, and as he said that it'll be fixed soon, it did.
Though he lied about working on it for quite some time before I complained but that doesn't matter as long as it's resolved haha.
 
Thanks to everyone of you! To take your time and try to enlighten me on the issue so that I could explain everything better and this made the guy seemed like I knew a lot about the technical stuff so I think that may have played a part in him acknowledging my issue and try to fix it.

After looking through the photo, my question is why would a splitter be required for an ONT before going into the Optical Distribution Frame (ODF)? This looks like the "sharing" that you're talking about and doesn't make very much sense at all...
 
In theory, a splitter is intended to allow multiple connections to connect or be run elsewhere on a network. But in this photo, it looks like the second network (The one with the IPTV, Phone, PC and RF) is being splitted for no apparent reason. If you aren't in the splitted connection and have your own direct connection to the ONT, it's because there's no other person taking advantage of the FTTH in your area. In this case, it looks like they were intending to run a line but stopped halfway through according to the photo, which is weird imho.
 
You need to find out if your ONT is running into a splitter which it most likely is, and if the splitter has any open connections that have not been terminated correctly.

well that kind of proves the problem lies outside your network.
It either means something is going wrong in your ISP's network, or your modem/router settings are wrong and that's what causing it.

I'll try and that be sure to update the thread with that one as well in the morning, thank you, sire!

I understand... Did you ever ask your ISP if they're doing any work in the area, or if they can run a signal test from your hardware to their servers? It doesn't make much sense to me that you'd be having these issues, especially with Fiberop...